Quick Question. Does anyone have issues with their Speedohealer? I changed my sprocket and so i was going to recalibrate it for the new setup. Well, i cannot get the screen to work. Does anyone have any ideas? I have tried holding the two buttons together. I have also tried pressing the two buttons together over and over. Neither method worked. I have held both buttons together for up to a minute without anything coming up.

I do have the bike running when i am trying to do this.

Thanks!

I never tried setting mine with the engine running.I wouldn't.Key 'on' is how I did mine.

V4?....turn key "on"....hold both buttons till you see an L(the buttons are tiny,so make sure you're pressing BOTH at the same time when beginning).You may or may not get an 'A'.If you see an 'E',that means you've erased all the previous data.You can begin scrolling till you get an 'A' or 'B'.I'm using 'A'(with a negative next).Now,you should see a 'digit'(SHOULD be a zero)flashing on the unit.Press set.Now you should see another '0' or number.Press the other button to scroll to your desired number.Press set.Now you should see a .(point) something.Press the select button till you get the number you want.Press set.That's it.Turn key off.Now back on...you will get your readout scrolling across the unit led's.(only once at each startup(key on).Should be A,then the numbers...-(negative)0,then a number,then .(point) something.Unless you have entered TWO first digits(which you shouldn't)then your readout will be A-02.3...that's for stock gearing with a 190 rear tire.

You have to enter your 'stock' configuration into the website data screen to get any "mods' to be valued in on the final calculation."Healtech" is the website.You will use "estimated"(for gearing changes and tire sizes) and also "correct for factory speedo error".Remember....5% is the estimated 'factory' error...which is already calculated into the information on the website.So a reading of "less" than the 5% does not mean you are going the other way(away from 5%).You're actually increasing from -5% to a -7 something with a -2.3 calculation.That's my understanding of it...and my speedo is radar accurate with these settings.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/9/2011 @ 8:06 AM *

i.e. read the instructions.... at least, mine came with instructions. :)

Well, that is the problem. I have waited for over 1 minute and the lights never come on. The digits never light up.
It seems to be working, because the Speedo was corrected with the 39 tooth.
I have written Healtech about it.

I have already been through all the settings and mine should be a -7. I have used a GPS with the healtech disconnected to get the difference.

Hopefully healtech will have some ideas. I was just curious if the zx had some strange trick that healtech did not mention on their website. Mine just might have a broken display. Thanks for the replies.

Mine just might have a broken display.

Only prob I have had with my V4 is that it shorted out and tripped the Top Speed Limiter or something. It could have been very dangerous. Careful when washing DO NOT get the SH, the lead connectors or the top speed recall button wet.

I believe my problem was from the Top speed recall button getting water on it.

That could have been the problem. The idiot who owned it before me stuck it onto the bike right in front of the handlebars with double stick tape. He lived in Seattle, WA. I have the feeling that it got rained on many times and it might have shorted out the LCD.
it really sucks. It is so easy to tuck it into the side pocket. That is what i did when the tape started to loose it stick.

IDK??? I DO K water and SH no mix. Thanks for posting. Maybe Healtech would put a new LED display on the box for you?

You returned it to stock gearing right? If so can’t you just unplug the Speedo healer and it goes back to stock?

It is -7% off at stock gearing.
This is why i am using the speedo healer.I want my speedo and odometer correct.

Try unplugging the healer.Just disconnect it.Now reconnect.See if you get an led display coming on at 'key on'.You might.IDK.

Cooter...stock gearing will have a factory speedo error of at least 5%.So returning to stock won't correct his speedo.It'll still be 'factory off'.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/10/2011 @ 9:36 AM *

Yeah, factory off is ridiculous.
Yeah, i have unplugged it and replugged it in many times now.
I will post the email of trouble shooting tips that heal tech emailed me, in case anyone has a problem in the future:
Ok, please go through this check-list:

1) Disconnect the 3p and 4p connectors and check whether the pins are
broken, bent or pushed out of position. Reconnect the harness, and make sure
that all connections are good and the connectors are fully seated.

2) Disconnect the 2-pole TSM connector and use the SH this way until the
problem is resolved.

3) Do not bend the SH harness near the 4p SH connector. Otherwise the pins
don't have a solid contact and may get loose or break over time.

4) If the LED responds, please execute the SH input and output tests as
follows:
- Have the ignition OFF.
- Press SEL and keep it depressed while you turn ignition ON.
[t] (test) is now indicated. Release the button.
Check: The speedo should indicate a steady number other than zero.

- Rotate the wheels back and forth.
Check: [t] should be blinking as the wheel turns.

Note: [t] appears on the display like an [E] without the top horizontal bar.

5) If the LED does not respond and you have a voltmeter, disconnect the SH
box.
Turn the ignition On.
Measure the voltages (DC 20V setting) on each pin in the 4p SH harness
connector, with the black meter probe connected to battery negative terminal
or chassis ground.
Please let me know the voltage readings for each pin, with the connector
pins facing you and locking latch on top:
top left pin:
top right pin:
bottom left pin:
bottom right pin:

Hope this helps someone else someday too.
I have not had time to do it myself yet. I will update when i have time.

(I guess the 'L' that I spoke of IS really the T they're talking about) Shit,IDK...mine worked fine outta the box and hooked up.E...L....T.All I wanted was 'A-2.3'...that's what I calibrated.I do think the E is actually showing all calibrations erased.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/10/2011 @ 4:10 PM *