Should have checked with the master tech before trying to solve this issue. Long story short, my '11 ZX-10R automatic cam chain tensioner won't advance to the next notch and I was sick of the racket. Common issue on all of the ZXs going back years, KHI specs too light a spring apparently. I researched this and the easiest method seemed to be to remove the center bolt, spring and pushrod and push down on the detent pawl with a 4mm allen wrench or other suitable tool. It's a tight fit in there and I didn't want to have to remove the water pump to get at it or remove the entire CCT, so this made sense. I have the center bolt, pushrod and spring out now but it's got me scratching my head now. The pushrod fits inside the spring so cannot push the pushrod if that makes any sense, see picture. The spring apprently loads the ratchet pawl, what does the pushrod do?

The spring apprently loads the ratchet pawl, what does the pushrod do?

Limits how far the pawl can retract.

* Last updated by: hagrid on 6/22/2014 @ 1:06 PM *

Without the book, I'm going to take a guess.

1. I need to remove the tensioner housing so I can move the the push bar [w/teeth] back into the housing.
2. I need to push that pivot holder up and push the bar back in. This pivoted holder keeps the rod from moving back, but lets it move forward as the tensioner/chain wears.
3. I need to remove the valve cover [if] I have to manually push the pivot ratchet up, the rod and spring push the rod forward until it stops against the tensioner all statically.
4. I think I need to push the ratchet open, yank the rod out as long as possible, but not pull it all the way out.
5. I need to install the spring and rod >> back into the tensioner housing first. This gives less tension on the spring and rod as I rethread the the spring-rod-bolt setup.
6. I then need to open the ratchet, press the rod's face into the bench, have the ratchet opened past both teeth locks; this sends the push rod home into the housing.
7. I believe this will stay in place as you reinstall the whole tensioner housing as one unit.
8. I will take a guess and say that if the 14 tensioner needs the top cover off to push behind the chain to trigger the ratchet to cause the rod to fly out, my guess is we are on top of that housing, load that spring pivot so the ratchet lifts and the rod flies out against the tensioner.
9. I think the spring inside is pushing the rod forward and the pin is there as the pusher to the rod or it pushes the ratchet?
10. I can't tell without the photos showing the blown out parts gutted out of that housing. So, does the pin push the ratchet or does it push the rod out? Look at the design and where that pin lands is the key.

We see how the tensioner has to auto-move-out?

Optional Alternative:

A. I can keep the cover on.
B. I should not move the engine with the tensioner out.
C. I buy a racing tensioner from _______ Fill in the blank.
D. I do not need to trigger anything with the cover off.
E. I eliminate the noise.
F. I can install the OE when I set the valves if need be.

The top picture in Kruz's post shows the entire can chain tensioner removed from the motor. It's there in your post Kruz. It is not visible until I log in but it's there. Anyway, this is a pic, Kruz grabbed off the inet of a CCT that was removed all in one piece.

If there are any other parts in the CCT that should have come out but did not, I don't see how any could have fallen out inside the motor. YOU said you did not hear anything drop in there so probably all is set up for reinstallation but definitely find out exactly what parts go together to make up the entire assy before you reinstall the bolt, spring and pin. ANd do NOT start the motor until you are sure it is all back together properly. ...or you be callin 1bad for junked bike sale again.

You should be able to push a wooden dowel in the CCT and pop the pusher to the next ratchet stop. Have you done that yet? If you are not POSITIVE that you feel it click into the very next stop, you may have pushed two clicks and perhaps the timing chain would be overtightened. It won't automatically set itself looser, just tighter. IN that case, might as well take off the water pump and install an APE. Those are easy to set. Mine seems to have wept just a tiny film of oil past the adjuster bolt o-ring but nothing to worry about.

How do you reset this thing if it is set too tight? On the 14, that means removing the tensioner, reset to 0, reinstall, remove valve cover to push timing chain against tensioner which pops the spring and the tensioner automatically resets. I think the 10 CCT is more like an APE where you set it manually after installation. Then the OEM CCT automatically finds the right tension. But then you'd be back where you started with a noisey too loose CCT.

looks like all you need to do is pop it forward a notch. just one click.

APE install

Hmmm....the general consensus over on ZX-10R.net seems to be the "pushrod" is not a pushrod at all but rather a spring guide pin that keeps the coil spring from binding. I think this makes sense. I'm tempted to very carefully re-install the spring, "pushrod" and cap and button it back up before something get's well and truly jacked up. On the other hand, I've spent a lot of time getting that little guy out of there and a gentle push of a suitable object might just advance the pusher one notch and cure my issue making this whole exercise of some value. This 10R has been a real PITA, between the CCT problem and all the clutch issues and two recalls I've had, I wouldn't buy another. KHI...are you listening?

* Last updated by: Kruz on 6/22/2014 @ 2:46 PM *

Sorry to thread crap, but WHY do these manufacturers have such a hard time designing a simple thing like
A cam chain tensioner ? I'm mean really, it's not rocket science !

Suzuki had TWO freaking recalls when the busa came out before they fiqured out "Oh, why don't we use an oil pressure
Hydraulic system" I mean I Hear about this all the time, I remember this as far back as a honda CL350 ! Various Kaws etc ....

I mean really, is it that freaking difficult ? Ok, I'm through with my rant, carry on ...

* Last updated by: carabuser on 6/22/2014 @ 3:30 PM *

My thoughts exactly Carabuser, if they cannot design a system that will automatically tension the cam chain, why not use a simple mechanical adjuster like on the APE manual system? Now I'm facing a real problem, I'm not even sure I can reassemble this thing without removing it completely as there is limited space and I have to compress the spring enough to get a thread started on that cap nut. My fingers barely fit back in there. I wish I had left well enough alone now as they eventually will self adjust but the noise is terrible, sounds like an old Cummins diesel.

1. I'm going to use a dowel kind of phillips screwdriver and shove the tensioner rod out against the tensioner.
2. Since I did not remove the body, just the bolt/washer/spring/pin, I'm going to push the guys back into place.
3. So far, I did not remove the body, or if I did, I still take my pin pusher tool, or even a thick welding rod with a ring hoop so I can push the rod plunger out against the tensioner, I'm going to pivot my bolt head against a flat bar, screwdriver shaft and like a see/\saw; I am going to push the head up to the body.
4. I'm going to take and sacrifice one of my tools that is open end and fits that bolt head.
5. I'm going to grid down the flat sides even thinner so I can get in between the bolt hex, where my screwdriver/flat bar/see-saw implement is butted up against the bolt head, plus the shoulder is where I need to grind that wrench so it enters that slot of a hex gap.
6. I've already marked where the threads begin to catch, so I have that bolt at that engagement point I begin my first push of the bolt against the threads, I've only have one shot to catch the treads, me squaring the bolt to the body, my pivot point braced against the throttle body? Against something so as to collapse the spring and begin threading that spring cap back on.

We see the loophole?

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/22/2014 @ 4:21 PM *

Under the general theory that if it aint broke don't fix it, it's back to together, cranked it up and everything sounds the same. I was reluctanct to get in there and start pushing that plunger in without knowing what to expect in the way of feedback, how do I know if I've gone to far? If I had one here on the bench I could experiment with it and get an idea of how much force is needed to get it to click. Other problem is there's no room to get a straight shot at that plunger without removing the water pump...arghh! Getting the spring and guide pin back in wasn't as bad as I thought, I was able to reposition the water pump hoseclamp and could just get my fingers in there, apply slight pressure and I snagged a thread on that nut. There was very little tension on that spring unless as I tightened it up it compressed it a great deal. Here is my issue, I'm getting this noise but the guys are calling theirs a "tick", mine sounds more like a rattle and it seems to come more from the clutch cover area but can't be sure as sound transmits so easliy through the engine case. It might not even be my cam chain tension and I sure don't want to risk overtightening the adjuster. I can live with the noise, it runs great and quiets down at operating temps and if it is the CCT, it might just self-adjust itself at some point.My .02

http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=132881&highlight=tick

Notice they call it a "tick", not a rattle. Think of what a Gen 1 ZX-14 sounds like starting up, it rattles the cam chain for about 3 seconds and then runs quiet. Mine sounds like that same rattle but much softer and never goes completely away although it does quiet at operating temps as mentioned. I'm not convicned yet that the CCT is my problem.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 6/22/2014 @ 4:59 PM *

Do exactly what he's doing. One click is the aim. The whine is way too tight, so do not double click. 'Don't let anybody tell you otherwise.'

OR...

1. Since my bolt/spring/pin was easy to reinstall... wink-wink... Say I take a nail as thick as my pin.
2. I'm going to no let the click happen with the body bolts as the vid shows. I have my nail sawed off so my head stops at the body's hole.
3. I took a toothpick for my length to fit. I added just a C-hair more so as to not push 2-clicks, but give me another nail I fukedup.
4. I sawed off another nail, where I just want the nail to make the ratchet ride up on the tooth.
5. I have the back wheel off the ground, in top gear. I push the nail, push the wheel in direction of engine rotation so the chain goes slack at the back, takes up that click.
6. I have my nail reinserted and it hits the body where it didn't before.
7. I saved my first toothpick. I now snap another toothpick off at the hole, pull that out; match my first toothpick; I should have an ever so length of one tooth gap.

See the loophole with less steps like the tank and the 2 bolts to get at? Where a nail nails it.

Pulled that one out of my ass I see that video move. That's his pitstop vs. my toof pick back out on the track with less moves.

Second to last page pretty much said to do the same trick from the center bolt. Then, the last page says to run the tensioner up against the plunger by moving the wheel backasswords. No. It's forward is the chain is pulled by the crank's front side; pulls the exhaust cam; pulls the intake cam; has now one tight side is the front of the engine's cam chain, the rear has the slack.

The slack at the back is to let the tensioner drop onto the chain. Rolling backwards sets the tensioner against the plunger. We see the difference we roll the wheel backwards is tighten the intake side of that chain to the crank?

The "trick" hub said has worked for many bikes through the years, I remember that from other bikes, but never
Tried it in a 2011 ZX10 ......

Kruz, if you're sure it is the CCT and not some other thing rattling, you should get back in there and click into the next slot. The CCT on my 14 was not bad. It was not a clatter like the sound you described your 14 to make when i talked to you on the phone. My 14 made a ticking noise with a regular rhythm that went away after about 20 seconds. The APE stopped that and I have not had it come back in 7000 miles of use.

You should be able to push a wooden dowel in the CCT and pop the pusher to the next ratchet stop.

If that doesn't work, take the tensioner bolt out a again and stick a thin phillips screwdriver in there. One click. You'll feel it if you don't hear it. Only thing, it might take quite a bit of force. you should have some idea since you saw how stiff the automatic adjuster spring is. You'll have to push harder because that spring is not exerting enough force.

OR

Do exactly what he's doing. One click is the aim. The whine is way too tight, so do not double click. 'Don't let anybody tell you otherwise.'

Seems to me the mounting bolts trick should work on the ZX-14 automatic CCT as well, hey Hub?

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/22/2014 @ 6:51 PM *

Hub, that click was pretty loud in that video, I could hear it over the bad hiphop rapizcrap in the background. Couple of other things I noticed, I'm no Sherlock Holmes but those screw heads were tore up, as in rounded off pretty bad and and had rust on them so he's done this many times I would say. Which brings us back to the point the CCT doesn't work on these bikes. Secondly, I saw a lot of furry metal bits... as in severe corrosion, he must be from New York or Philly, lots of salt on the roads....just guessin.

Well the tensioner is "in between clicks" some guys use to go hammer their bike, and claimed
The tensioner would go to the next click that way, it's annoying to hear the ticking, but usually
The tensioner is just trying to get to the next click, and there usually isn't going to be any damage,
But like I said before, they need to make a better design ....

Hub, that click was pretty loud in that video, I could hear it over the bad hiphop rapizcrap in the background.

those screw heads were tore up, as in rounded off pretty bad and and had rust on them so he's done this many times I would say.

My '99 Suzuki Grand Vitara has a cam chain rattle that's constant. Same problem, the tensioner won't advance to the next click. Service bulletin says replace tensioner and both guide rollers, about $1500. Checked online, and a couple techs say the solution is to drive it in 2nd gear up to the rev limiter, and keep it there for 20-30 seconds. That will advance the tensioner. Do you feel lucky? Well do ya punk? I do not, so I'll live with it till the motor blows. Do you feel lucky?

* Last updated by: alg8er on 6/22/2014 @ 11:27 PM *

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kDCEGrLTN9g

This is exactly what mine sounds like, let me know if you can view this link.

I'm about 99% sure it's the CCT hanging up.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 6/23/2014 @ 4:40 AM *

Just install the APE Manual Cam Chain Tensioner and get it over with.

Kruz,
The nose has to be on the right side for a cct to begin slapping the slipper.

1. I can try to put it in top gear, rear wheel up in the air, I back torque the wheel so the cam chain slaps the cct plunger via slipper. Then, I front torque the rear wheel so the chain/slipper are at their loosest. With the chain now having all that tension on one side is the ex cam to crank, then the chain is slack at the rear, in theory. The spring either pops over the tooth...

2... Or it's back to a manual click.

3. And my man you will, load the rear wheel in top gear [to the point] of not moving the crank, but on the raggedge of moving it. So with the direction of rotation, no out of sync engine pulse to move the basket on a chug, the for every action, we have the ability to reverse in the slack, then make that noise. But with the chain that taught, no backlash of a slack, I'm going after one tooth 'click' out at a time. Start the engine until it either stops making noise, or you went too far, the whistle is on; out comes the housing so you manually ratchet the rod back in the body.

4. Then, the scenario goes something like this:
a. My rod is pushed back in all the way; I have the body bolted home.
b. I reversed the back wheel; with a handheld implement that landed thru the body hole; is up against the slipper; I move the rear wheel backwards; feel the slipper back out the implement; I kept the slipper taught so the chain will not ride up a tooth at the intake cam's sprocket; I stop enough so there is just a beginning of taught to the rear chain rung.
c. The body goes back in; I take my nail and push the ratcheted rod out so it hits the slipper and I stop.
d. I then turn the rear wheel in the drive direction: this tightens the front chain rung; loosens the rear; my nail goes back into the rod; I push to see if it will 'click' one more time to take that 'safety slack' out.

See how my push up to the slipper has a way to go? Until I understand about that singing of the slipper being too tight; I start all over again.

We see the move to click that slipper quiet in the chain tightening sequence?

I am imagining moving that plunger when the engine runs is a no-no. Why? The engine is pulsing that slipper on the fire offs. To push the rod back out and rat-tat-tat over the surface of the tooth layout, meaning, it will happen so fast, the ratchet will not have the time to lock down again, you forcing that rod forward at the same time. Static is your only way out so as not to shave those peaks off the teeth [and ratchet too remember: that rub your hands theory] while running.

Surely they have an APE manual tensioner for the zx10R?Totally reliable...and no hassels using the dowel thingy(long screwdriver) and removing the valve cover.What a drag.Like Rookster says...set and forget it.I've installed several on my zx14's over the years.No need on my 2013(or 2012)....they fixed this issue...;)FINALLYLOL!!!!

Grn, it's not that bad, no reason to remove the valve cover as you can't jump timing doing it like in that video, basically just back off the CCT mounting bolts slowly until you hear one click then snug everything back up. It takes maybe twenty minutes to pull the right mid fairing to get to the CCT, I'll give this a try next week when I have a little time.