Hello HUB I could use your help!
I have 5800 miles on my 07, I have ran 4800 of those miles flies out with no other mods and no trouble. A couple of weeks ago I performed the minor "$0.27 TRE" operation and found it to really smooth the bike out down low. I have ridden it a couple of times with no trouble, until today. I was WOT in first, then after my shift to second the FI error light was on and the FI error message was on the screen. The bike did not miss a beat (thankfully) and the it cleared within a few seconds. I got the error twice more during my ride my home. I don't want to damage my bike, any input from you would be greatly appreciated, I am getting shipped back out of the country at the end of the summer and would really like to enjoy riding!!

Thanks

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Thanks HUB!!

I appreciate your time. I checked my wiring and all is well, no flickering N light etc... So off I go into a summer full of riding!!

I'm sure we'll talk again.....

nicezx7

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Hey. I siphoned my tank last night. Disconected the whole battery. I hooked battery back up tonight and switched on the ignition. I get the alternating FI -- FI ERROR on my multi func. WTF? Is it broken. How do I get rid of that?

Could be I had the ECU pulled out last week but I didn't remove the plugs--just took the ECU and fusebox from the rubber retainer.

Also have speed sensor coupler disconected but reconnected and still I have the FI-- FI ERROR. Anybody have any ideas? i hope it's just the recent battery reconnect and it will clear itself.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/21/2011 @ 7:12 PM *

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FOCKa-didley! pressed top/bottom button and I have a code 31. Vehicle-down sensor malfunction, wiring open or short

I have the top fairing off as well. --tip over sensor is disconnected, of course. That b it!

No biggy. Give me credit for getting to the point where I don't have a hissy fit and run around in a circle pulling my hair out. lol

..but just wait--I have to put all of this back together and if I still have error code, I will have a hissy fit and come weeping to computer for help.

Seems strange. Battery is fully charged according to Schuemacher charger indicator light. Bike cranks slowly but no start. Put some gas in there, same thing. Won't start.

Another weird thing...I could swear the FI ERROR was not there last week when I turned the key. Top cowl had been off a long time even then.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/21/2011 @ 7:43 PM *

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Gawd...sheesh Rook...you have some hella luck!Code 31.Okay.You reconnected the sensor,yes?Okay.Turned key off,then ON and tried to start yer baby,yes?No code?Clarify buddy...clarify.How's your voltage doing?Key ON...scroll(mode button) to "voltage",what's she got(uncranking that is)?Anything around 12--11 something...fugetaboutit.She ainta gonna fire.(she will however...CRANK SLOWER).Jump yer bike,quickest way.Get er runnin.Go ride.Should be fine.(connect the ground lead to the brake pedal).Hot lead to the battery positive.Fer God's sake...don't get this wrong!!!!!! I hate to ask...but...you know me...I MUST.DO YOU HAVE ONE OF THOSE "NEW" lightweight batteries in there??You don't have to answer if ya don't want to .

The engine WILL NOT TURN OVER with a failed tipover sensor.So it's NOT that at this point.

Yer "shumacher" may very well indicate"fully charged"...fine...but what's you're BIKE saying?Your bike's saying..."I'm stumblin here pilot....shoot me the juice Bruce"

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/22/2011 @ 1:24 AM *

DO YOU HAVE ONE OF THOSE "NEW" lightweight batteries in there??

Nope. Not yet. Wanted to test the feel of the bike with stock compared to Shorai. Have the stocker in there now.

Thanks , Blue. This was just a false alarm (for now), I think. The tip over sensor is NOT connected and I assume that is why I am getting the code 31. Should clear the code automatically when i put the front fairing back on and reconnect the TOS.

I was just wondering if my bike is exhibiting normal behavior right now being that it is suffering from a code 31.
--The multi func flashes the FI--FI WARNING display. No other info (except odo) is showing on the multi func so no way to check batt voltage from bike.

--The bike cranks slow (seems slow as far as I remember from last Fall). Well, regardless of cranking speed, it won't start. The thing turned over about 10 times and no fire.

Does a code 31 prevent the bike from starting?

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If the TOS is disconnected, the ECU assumes the bike is tipped over. It will not let the engine run in that state.

That ECU is a strange beast, too.

I recently disconnected the battery completely (it was sitting on the workbench) so I could patch all my wire bundles to the handlebar switches to +7" length.

I also hooked up the relay and fuse block up front, and re-arranged what is directly on the battery terminals (now just the alarm and the fuse block relay + cable) when I reinstalled the battery.

When I tried to start it, nothing. I stood there and pondered for a few seconds, turned the key off. Turned the key back on, and could hear her preparing to start. Thumbed the starter button, and she started right up.

So for some reason, it didn't want to start the first try, but has been just fine ever since.

* Last updated by: privateer on 3/22/2011 @ 8:51 AM *

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This ECU is anything but strange. It is consistent and can flip from FI to no code within seconds on the fly.

That ECU is a strange beast, too.

Maybe it is not nice to call the ECU "strange" but it does seem to have a mind of its own. My bike WAS down 4th day i rode it. It did not cut engine for at least 10 seconds, laying on it's side. I actually got to the kill switch before the TOS did it. Then it had some code flashing. I do not remember which one but I will bet it was the TOS code 31 like I have now. The vehicle was uprighted and still the code flashed. I started it a few hours later and it cleared the code. I think that ECU sits a while and thinks before it makes a decision and we have no control.

What was the reason for removing the VDS.

Just took the nose off like I do every winter to wipe it off on the inside and out and peek around under there. Also a good opportunity to hand buff the swirls indoors and put some wax on it. I do that to all fairings.

You do not mod, you change out one part for the other is the only mod.

Exactly my philosophy. My bike can be restored to stock.

If the TOS is disconnected, the ECU assumes the bike is tipped over. It will not let the engine run in that state.

Thought that might be the case. Either that or the ECU won't let you start the motor without the TOS in operation. The code says "Vehicle-down sensor malfunction, wiring open or short" nothin about "the vehicle is down." but what's the dif? The TOS is not in normal operating condition and the bike won't start until it is. The only way to check is to hook the TOS back up.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/22/2011 @ 10:53 AM *

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It's not gonna say..."the vehicle is down".It's telling you the sensor is malfunctioning...as it should being unplugged."out of the ECU circuit" in other words. When I crashed my baby in early 07,I also had to crawl over and turn the key off.I was kinda dazed,so I don't remember IF the engine was running...I don't think it was.Then when I got er back home,after I had replaced all the broken stuff,I went to start it.It would NOT turn over.I didn't realize that I had thrown the sensor out with the broken mirror bracket.Had to get a new sensor.Put that in...she fired first shot.IF the ecu "thinks" the bike is down...it will prevent it from starting.UNTIL...it gets a fresh signal from whatever "part" was "replaced" or fixed.Hook your sensor back up...check your volts..and go from there is my advice.Gotta be something simple....unless you jacked all yer wiring up somehow layin her down.Taking that cowl off...how much wiring did you have to "unplug" or whatever?IDK,but seems like "something" electrical(sensor,ecu)reset is in order.Some of the "faults" displayed on the LCD are "resetable" in the ECU by correcting the fault,then rekeying the power.Like HUb said..."on the fly"..yes...it will compare input/output and if the situation is within a certain precoded parameter ,it can switch to a secondary "program"....and continue to function.If the code(FI) clears...then the ECU(or operator)has corrected the deal...shouldn't need any other messing with.If the ECU 's last input for that sensor was "shut bike power off(in the ecu program)" because she tipped over...that fault is gonna still be activated UNTIL you reconnect a working tipover sensor,and rekey to reset.IDK about you battery deal...maybe you are shorting to ground somewhere?Sucking juice away and not knowing it?(kinda like the clock draining the battery over time).

I'm pretty sure if the ECU thinks she's on her side...she's NOT gonna crank(I KNOW mine didn't crank....but I think the key power did activate the displays and such...which may have been how I found out there was no tipover sensor)).So IF she cranking...it's something else-I wish I could remember what mine did without that sensor in there.Disconnecting it IS NOT THE SAME AS the signal sent to the ECU when the sensor kicks in from a tipover.

Anyone with a working tipover sensor can easily check to see how she operates by removing the plugged in sensor,starting their bike,and flipping the sensor onto it's side.The engine should stop.Then trying to restart with the sensor on it's side,see what the bike will do.I haven't tried it...but...might be kinda cool to see what it will do...should I ROOK?

This much I remember from way back when...I fixed my bike...was all happy and stuff to finally be able to go and ride again.I turned the key...hit the starter.Nothing.Battery was fine.Run switch was "ON".

I have disconnected my ECU from the harness a couple of times since I've owned my bike.Plugged it back in....no codes.Everything worked okay.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/22/2011 @ 3:39 PM *

.unless you jacked all yer wiring up somehow layin her down.Taking that cowl off...how much wiring did you have to "unplug" or whatever?

Just unhooked the Two wires to headlights on each side and the TOS. Other than that, the speed sensor coupler connector is unplugged to install a Speedohealer but I replugged that and it made no dif.

IDK about you battery deal...maybe you are shorting to ground somewhere?

Nope, I think the battery is fine. The bike is bound to be a little stiff sitting all winter or Perhaps I am just not used to hearing it turn over so many times. It sounds like it is cranking slower but not at a snail's pace. Maybe the battery is not as strong as it once was. It did not die on me.

I think the key power did activate the displays and such...which may have been how I found out there was no tipover sensor)).

My key activates the display but only shows the FI warning, the warning light, engine light and odo. The FI WARNING takes up the whole screen.

Disconnecting it IS NOT THE SAME AS the signal sent to the ECU when the sensor kicks in from a tipover.

HM- same effect though. ECU won't let the motor if it tips over and it won't let it run without a TOS or the TOS wiring is shorted or something.

trying to restart with the sensor on it's side,see what the bike will do.I haven't tried it...but...might be kinda cool to see what it will do...should I ROOK?

I am pretty sure I did try that when I reconnected the TOS after putting the washers in the loose rubber dampers to stop the ticking noise back in winter 08. Much easier way to test the TOS than to lay the bike down lol

I have disconnected my ECU from the harness a couple of times since I've owned my bike.Plugged it back in....no codes.Everything worked okay.

Same here. Unhooked all wires from fuse box and ECU during fender elimination. Plugged back in and good as new.

I'm sure there is really NO problem. The TOS is dosconnected and the bike is behaving as any 14 with a disconnected TOS would. Throws a 31 and won't start. I'll let you know how it acts when I get that front back on. If it still doesn't start, then I will panic but I am betting it will fire right up with the TOS hooked up it should be.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/22/2011 @ 6:08 PM *

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You don't need to reassemble everything back again to test the sensor.Plug it in,hold it vertical,start your bike.It will tell ya right there IF things are doing okay.If it were me...I'd want to find out pronto.Just so's I knew that part was fine.You've got more patience than I...that's for sure!LOL!
Well...I had to see for myself what the deal is with MY tipover sensor.Okay...went out,removed from the mirror bracket.Held sensor vertical.Started bike.Worked fine.While running,I tipped the sensor on it's side.Bike ran for 4 or 5 seconds,then died.NO FI code.Tried restarting with sensor in the "tippedover" position.No code...only cranked...slightly slower.Okay.Tipped sensor back up again...turned key...hit starter...she fired.No code.Now...I unplugged the connector.Hit starter..she started!Ran for about 2-3 seconds.Died...with an FI error code(but NOT flashing).Reconnected the plug,reinstalled the sensor onto the bracket.Turned key,hit starter...she failed to start...SLOW cranking this time.Checked my voltage....12.3(way too low).Okay..so I'll let er charge back up....should be good as gold.Anyway...I had to find out.

There was one small deal however.When I "tilted" the sensor as she was running,natch,she died.I did not turn the key off...but straightened the sensor back up to normal position and tried restarting.It would not restart.Turned key off,then on again...fired okay.No code.So apparently,just "fixing the problem" will not necessarily clear the error.The reset has to be done via the cycling of the key.Coding or not.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/23/2011 @ 1:36 AM *

Roger that, blue. I dropped mine in a ridiculously slow, ridiculously small radius figure 8 during the MSF Experienced Rider Class From Hell, nothing enough to damage anything but my pride. The bike turned off. We stood it upright, and I thumbed the starter button.

Nothing. Turned the key off, turned it back on, started fine.

I think they just built fail-safes in the code. I have written a lot of microcode for military embedded chips/processors, and if I wrote that section of the ECU, it would shut off the engine on TOS, set the TOS flag = 1 in volatile memory (cleared on key off) and not allow a restart until the flag is cleared, and leave the flag on until the bike was turned off. Then when the ECU was re-powered, one of the first things I'd do is check check the TOS to see if the bike is upright.

That way, the ECU forces the rider to stand the bike up, turn the key off, and hopefully inspect it for damage, leaks, whatever before turning it back on.

* Last updated by: privateer on 3/23/2011 @ 6:33 AM *

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The ECU is a computer. You have a great grasp of the steady-state and analog inputs and outputs, but not of how the computer operates.

There is a difference between what the ECU does internally as a computer, and the inputs/outputs.

So, the bike tips over. The TOS switch asserts +12 volts or maybe asserts 0 volts. I don't care. The ECU sees that and executes some microcode. Engine off. Fuel pump off.

On a BMW, the TOS event sets a flag bit on the CANbus, which the ECU sees and acts on. The BMW electronics are superior to the ZX14 electronics.

I'm just saying, we don't know what the microcode does, but if I had coded it, I'd set a flag (a bit of memory, set to either 0 or 1) on the TOS event, and then not let the engine start until the flag is cleared. Turning the key off would clear the flag.

It doesn't have anything to do with the crank. The crankshaft is not running if the engine is not running. It has nothing to do with counts. Its either TOS or NOT TOS. Thats a logic NOT, not caps for emphasis.

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If it were me...I'd want to find out pronto.Just so's I knew that part was fine.You've got more patience than I...that's for sure!LOL!

You're reading me right, blue. I have been sitting hear chuckling to myself a bit the last two days when i check this thread. You guys are taking this more seriously than I am! I appreciate it so much I haven't had the heart to come out and say it but now... I am pretty confident that this WILL all resolve itself when I get the nose polished up and backon the bike. I'm out the garage 10-20 x a night as it is. I don't need another reason to drag stuff in and out. LOL I DO appreciate everyones' suggestions and value the info that has been offered as well.

Now...I unplugged the connector.Hit starter..she started!Ran for about 2-3 seconds.Died...with an FI error code(but NOT flashing).

Blimey! You see, this ECU does have a mind of its own. Strange beast, indeed.

I did not turn the key off...but straightened the sensor back up to normal position and tried restarting.It would not restart.Turned key off,then on again...fired okay.No code.So apparently,just "fixing the problem" will not necessarily clear the error.The reset has to be done via the cycling of the key.

I believe that was what happened when I tipped mine for real. Would not start after I flipped the kill switch back to run. Flashed some warning on the multi func. I shut key off. Was afraid to hit starter after that. Went back in a couple hours and started right up no codes.

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Apparently...the bike(ecu) will not code on a tipover...because actually,nothing is technically "wrong".But you need to recycle the power to clear the "lock" on the ignition(electronically speaking).A faulty TOS...then that's something different.Telling a guy..."your bike isn't gonna start without this little gem working okay".A safety deal I guess.You then hotwire your TOS...no codes...yes...and ride at your own risk...pray you don't have a fall,and lose consciousness!

You know Hub...that unit has that little metal ball in there,and once it rolls to the outer ends of the "circuit" and makes contact(as in a tipover),it's gonna throw a "switch" to/from the ECU.Just setting her back upright is not gonna "clear" the "fault".The power reset is like the one when you turn off/restart your Computer...same deal.You shut down your Computer....it clears all the "temporary files" and such.Ecu most likely does the same thing.That's why you can't just pick er back up and expect her to fire...the "last" signal the ECU got was from a
"vehicle down" situation(it doesn't recognize a lifted bike cause the ball is "out of the circuit" now until it gets a fresh starting point electronically.I'm with whoever mentioned the interesting little gem of"won't start" until....until you actually have picked the bike up.Shut the key off...checked for damage and such,then have the wherewithal to get back on and ride.Those Japanese are pretty sharp I'll say.

"toggling the code while on the fly"...yep....depends on WHAT kind of "fault" is happening.Interruption of power while riding a coded bike would most likely "clear" any codes(power OFF for even a split second)...until it occurred again.If the ECU was able to "correct" the problem,then it wouldn't code anymore...until things went too far again.The program is able to "reset" certain parameters by itself as long as they are "in the operational" window of adjustments.I know this because of my experience(s) with my ignition wheel loosening up.My bike coded,then corrected as long as she was within the ECU's "correctable" ability.Once beyond that,if she stopped running...the last "fault" prevented the bike from starting.Then I had to bump the starter,to get the wheel back into "correctable" position.The ECU automatically did a correction,the code cleared at rekey,and she would start.If she was turned off at the "corrected" position..she would restart.The ECU used the good configuration to allow the engine to fire.When I turned her off at the "barely running" condition,it would code on restart and not run.(the cam position sensor).Even with that...the code only presented "faulty or open condition" ON THE SENSOR.It did not tell me..."timing is off somehow".I had to figure that out myself.I guess it was telling me"Ignition timing position is outside the sensor's range"....not necessarily that the sensor was bad.So the interpretation of these fault codes can be kinda misleading if you read them a certain way.And the sensor did exactly what it was supposed to do...alert me to a timing problem.Now I'd understand what it meant by coding cam position sensor.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 3/23/2011 @ 3:25 PM *

sorta a false distress cry here. I have had the top fairing on for a few days now. Got the gas tank back on. All the vital electronic harnesses connected. It flashed the code for a couple seconds and then I hear the fuel pump do its preliminary wiz. Hit the button-------------nothing. Damn. Battery died sitting a few days off the charger?....I see I or somebody flipped the button on the charger over to 6V so my poor old stock battery was half charging for the last month or so.

Charged up the battery over night on 12V and she fired right up like a champ.

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I gotta go with the "child proof" kinda stuff Rook.You know,plug the little co ax in the battery pigtail...ya...I can do that.Plug the teensy two pronged square charger into the wall...yep...so far so good!

I believe The new Schumacher automatically detects the voltage of the battery......but I got the Shorai going in there pretty soon. No more battery maintainer needed.

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