Here is the problem I am having with the busa which does not have a drop center inside the wheel like the 14 does. There is a vertical bead surface against the rim and there is a horizontal bead surface more inside the wheel. I am trying not to touch either.

I had two irons in and I cannot get a third in there. The pressure to lift the second iron out was a lot and I think I'd be afraid of bending the rim by levering the third bite out if I could get an iron in. You can see the rim protector on the left is pulling over the edge in the pic below. This is only the first bite.

I took the irons out and stared a second time only to have the same thing happen.

Now, I got my dremmel out and sliced through the bead to relieve some tension so hopefully I will be able to get another iron in there. There is a steel band around the edge of the tire bead. Should I cut the steel band with the irons in there? It is very tight. The irons are wired down but I'm apprehensive. Will the tire snap like a rubber band and send stuff flying? I don'y want to hurt myself. If you work in a tire shop or have ever tried this, please advise.

You can see the steel band inside the middle cut.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/16/2014 @ 1:16 PM *

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Tires aren't super stretchy.i wouldn't expect it to snap back with much force. Maybe ratchet a tie down strap around the center of the tread to hold it all together while you cut.

I can't see a steel bead allowing that carcass to go anywhere....geez ROOK...what the hell ya doinLOL!!!!!(looks like fun my man;)

Okay...so ya get em off...now what?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/16/2014 @ 9:32 PM *

OK, cool! I talked it over with a friend this pm and he seemed to think the same (still, noticed he didn't offer to hold the irons while I cut lol). Also, affirmative reply on the busa forum. The tire is not going to go ballistic just because the bead cable is cut. I'm still waiting until my kids leave before I try it!

Normally, this shouldn't be necessary but this tire seems to be a real doozie.

I'll post the outcome of the bead band cut when i get it.

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reminds me of the Goodyear guy that mounted the tires for my car. 8 hours to get 4 tires mounted. He told me to NEVER come back! Unfortunately I'm almost due for another set.

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It looks like you need one of those small bead breakers that squeezes the tire beads together on the opposite side of where you're using the irons. That would allow the tire to shift toward the irons instead of trying to stretch the tire.

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You need a:

Bead breaker.
A huge vice.

Alex, for $20 I'll buy the biggest vice I can stick the tire into the jaws with. Why, that son of a...
He took wood shims and when the jaws came too close to the rim, up went a shim under the tire. He cranked and cranked and then with the spoon and a pop did that sob come off the bead.

Here's me spoon right cheer. Well, that was easy.

Signed,

BTDThat

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Okay...so ya get em off...now what?

The new tires should be easier to install than these were to remove. i hope so.

It looks like you need one of those small bead breakers that squeezes the tire beads together on the opposite side of where you're using the irons. That would allow the tire to shift toward the irons instead of trying to stretch the tire.

The top bead IS at the center of the rim on the opposite side. The bottom bead is also at the center right below the irons. I guess it would help to pull the bottom bead to the center all the way around. I'll try doing that with a C-clamp and some wood cushions. Thanks, aegiranger and Hub.

One of the things I learned about drop centers is that if you rely on that too much, the tire will get cocked on the rim and too much air escapes to set the bead. Obviously that is not a problem when removing the tire. These busa rims do not have much of a drop in the center. Maybe they designed them that way so air can not escape when setting beads, even if the tire is cocked. Makes it very hard to remove a tire though.

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What kind of tire is that Rook? I have learned that Bridgestone and Dunflops are by far the worse tires for me to deal with.I have a Coats manual changer and I can remove any brand but have a HORRIBLE time mounting Bridges and Dunflops. It seems that those brands have a very stiff carcass. Michelins and Pirellis go on like butter.

Mad

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I'm going to water/soap my tire beads. I'm going to lay the new tire on the rim, start to push it into the rim and by hand, I pushed on the one side of the tire by hand.

I now set the tire bead into the middle of the rim.

I now take one spoon, set it under the bead, grab another spoon, pull the bead over the rim and stop.

I then take the 3rd spoon, set it under the bead and pull out the 2nd spoon that was right beside the 3rd entered spoon.

I have the 1st spoon between my legs. I have 1st spoon and the 3rd spoon holding down the bead from backiing off the rim.

I take spoon 2 and keep peeling over the bead onto the rim and as I do, 3 spoon is removed, is now dug under #2 spoon's side following the bead-bend-over.

I have 3 spoon in and pulled 2 spoon out.

I have been pushing the [tire] already over the rim: is to keep pushing the carcasses into the center as you keep feeding bead. Why? This moves the bead on the outside easier to peel over the rim is it makes it longer on that one end. See it?

I then see at this point that the less distance from 3 spoon is the better bending over a smaller bead bite, not send spoon 2 farther away from stationary spoon 3. Why? See how too much pullover is a fight with bending the rim with too much bead?: whereas, I peel over short beads next to the 3 spoon, the tire goes on easier.

I am toward the end. Spoon 1 never left that first position under my crotch. Spoon 2 is pulled, because the tire is about to be hand fed from here on out.

I am always pushing carcass sides into the center as I push the tire into the center at the same time.

I pull all spoons and pop the tire on the rest of the way.
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All this time it was pretty much a thick soapy mix around the beads so less runs into the rim. My (yellowhite?) painted dot is lined up with the schrader plug.

I'm pushing down on the tire so the beads pop up more or less even not cocked. Does not matter really.

I now pull the schrader valve out, add the air and let the beads pop twice. One pops on the one side, and do not fear adding more air to pop the other side.

I hear that last pop, I pull the air hose off the plug, let the air escape, install the schrader and check air pressure.
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Balancing is the next step.

I take all the collars out of the wheel, install the wheel alone and slide the axle in place. The bike is the balance stand.

I spin the tire and walk away.

I made my mark at 12 o'clock, spin the wheel again so I know the mark is back to being straight up again, I found the heaviest spot, which is the bottom, obviously.

I install the weight back on, move the wheel to 3 or 9 o'clock position, let it go, see if it returns to the top?

I want a balanced tire to stop no matter what clock position. Then I know it's balanced.

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I had a bioch of a time a couple weeks ago changing the tires. Front was not bad but the rear would not come off. So we took the sawsall and carefully cut through the center of the rear tire and it popped right off. Wish I could hide my ID but it worked.

What kind of tire is that Rook? I have learned that Bridgestone and Dunflops are by far the worse tires for me to deal with.

It's a Bridgestone BT-003.

OMG! I have a Q2s on the CZ rims. I'm sure that will be another fun adventure.

I now take one spoon, set it under the bead, grab another spoon, pull the bead over the rim and stop.
I then take the 3rd spoon, set it under the bead and pull out the 2nd spoon that was right beside the 3rd entered spoon.

That's the drill I followed in the past but I can't get past step 2 on this one.

So we took the sawsall and carefully cut through the center of the rear tire and it popped right off.

I'd do the same thing. I'm sure they need to do that at a tire shop sometimes too.

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go on you tube and look for zip tie tire removal. it works for me

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eh, too late. Have to check that for the next tire removal which should be just a few days.

I GOT IT!!

Here is my tire. I cut through the bead with the dremmel. You can see the steel cable around the inside of the bead in the inset enlarged photo. I could hear the last three strands pop as I cut through them. Sounded like a cutting torch but not quite as loud. There was no chance anything could fly out but I put a ratchet strap around the tire just in case. Once I got the third iron in the tire and pried up, the whole bead slid right over the top withhout even putting any more irons in. One of the rim protectors I was using also rolled over the edge and popped off. No damage to the paint on the rim though (gotta hand it to zuk on that rim paint---very tough).

Now for the bottom bead. I have a feeling it will be just as hard. I bet I end up cutting again. :dozingoff:

Thanks for ALL the help EVERYONE! I have a lot of good tips. Have to save this thread for future ref. Keep an eye on it, please. I still have to get a new tire on there and thennnnnnn...the front.

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Finally got the tires on the rims and I'm about to get to balancing. IDK if I could have gotten the rear off without cutting. I discovered that pressing against the tire on the opposite side that the iron is being inserted offers a bit of slack. The front came off easier than the back but went on a little more difficult. Oh well, these were busa rims. I think they are more difficult for tire removal than are the ZX-14 rims. x10 with old tires.

I did do some paint damage to the inside of the rear wheel. No biggy, the beads were unmolested. The tire sealed well.
Thanks for all the help on this thread. I'm posting a link to my tire removal tutorial.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/27/2014 @ 1:25 PM *

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too much work....i'll give the sideshop $60 buck and 30 min im riding again