Hi Guys, what are the standard settings for suspension set up?
I just got my zx14r 2nd hand with 9000k's on it.
It is way to stiff and i bounce off the seat on bumps.
Can any one tell me where to start with settings, sag etc ?

Thanks lots, Maddy.

There really is not such thing as a standard setting. It's whatever you are comfortable with for the type of riding you do. If you do some travelling, as your hard bags suggest, I would set things on the soft side.

Set your front and rear spring preload for comfort and then set the damping, particularly the rebound damping to control spring action. There are some vids on Youtube to show some baseline settings, but they will put you a bit on the stiff (sporty) side of things. You can do those and adjust from there to get what is best for you. 14Rs are more heavily sprung than '06-'07 Ist gen models (which were excessively undersprung), so you should be able to come up with a suitable setting without re-springing or changing out the fork oil for something heavier than stock.

If you feel the current setting is too stiff, start by backing off the preload until things get smoother. Remember to back off the rebound accordingly so the suspension doesn't "pack down" over successive bumps.

Hi Maddy...here...this will get you started.These values are factory settings...With these adjusters..all..do NOT force the screws into the closed positions.They will snug up just before being fully closed.That's all you want..then turn counterclockwise and start counting the clicks as you open em.

FIRST THING you want to make sure is correctly adjusted for YOU personally...front and rear sag.This is separate from these other adjustments.You can have a dealer set this up for you.Unless you know how to do this on your own already.There's zillions of YOUTUBE vids on this...Dave Moss has a good one.

FRONT FORK settings(factory)...

Spring Preload...14mm(measured from top of the adjuster[the hex])(not the small damping screw adjuster)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/18/2015 @ 9:26 AM *

Hi Maddy. I agree with Danno on setting the preload first. The front is simple but sounds like you are having a rear shock preload issue. You are too light for that rear shock. It prolly is better suited for carrying you and a passenger but just you, the shock is not contracting enough over bump and it's launching the rear wheel up of the ground. I was having the same issue with mine and rode around like that for a year. It was really not bad on a smooth surface. When I finally got around to setting the suspensions, the rear preload was indeed cranked way high.

Hope you don't mind an explanation of what preload is--if you already know--but maybe others don't know. Preload is the amount your shock springs are "tightened" or compressed even before the weight of the bike or rider is set on them. Even carrying no load, the spring is pre-loaded. There is a coil spring in the shock and if it has no pressure at all on it, it's not loaded at all and it will be very springy and bouncy of course. Then you drop the weight of the bike on it and now the spring compresses. It's a lot stiffer now but it still will compress and extend (or rebound as we call it) if you push down on the bike. Now you add the weight of the rider and the springs collapse some more and they get even tighter. It might seem like all that weight on the springs aught to be enough of a load to A) absorb shocks and B) maintain stability on bumps and dips but not really. Springs alone are not designed to manage the weight of the bike and rider. If the springs did the job all on their own, the suspensions would probably be too soft and bouncy. So what do you do? You make the spring even stiffer. That's what the preload control does. Turn it up and the spring compresses. turn it back down and the spring has tension taken off of it. This way, the suspension can be set to carry a range of weight or accommodate various road surface preferences. Sounds like your rear shaock has preload set too tight. You probably have to open that spring up ~4-5 millimeters so it gets a little more springy. If you look at your rear shock, you will see the coil spring around it. The fronts are inside the tube so you can't see those.

Check this out for more details. Your Gen2 is similar to the Gen1 in this tutorial.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=0FBAD329-D9A8-D755-1C455125FFBD4B86

This could be too much compression damping as well or a slight chance too little rebound damping [maybe] but I'll wager it's preload that is set for a much bigger rider.

one last note, there are OEM suspension settings, at least they had established that for the Gen1. I'm sure the Gen2 service manual has that info in it. That might be where your suspensions are set.

Another final note, OEM suspensions are not known to have a great deal of adjustment range even though they may have 18-20 clicks to choose from. Four or five clicks up or down might not make much difference. I think the rear preload with the adjuster nut has plenty of range for most owners though.

Here's a link to your owner's manual...mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-ninja-owners-manuals/

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/18/2015 @ 9:39 AM *

and one more final note, you can trial and error experiment with setting the preload to determine what is best for you but that will be a hell of a lot of work back and forth (and could be a little risky too if your not real careful test riding). the best thing you can do is measure the height of the suspensions as shown in the tutorial to determine your sag measurements before and after adjusting. Sag is the total amount the suspensions sag (compress) with weight of rider, bike and preload setting. get your sag right and you will have it right in the ballpark.

Thanks Guys, this is so informative, for a girl i am known to be handy with a spanner but how the heck do you reach the rear spring lock nuts (c spanner ones) im thinking of taking the shock out to do it.
The shocky spring "C" nuts are half way down the thread at the moment.
Its way too rigid, doesnt move when i sit on the bike.

Thanks lots Maddy xx

* Last updated by: Maddy on 10/19/2015 @ 5:45 AM *

Fer God's sake...DON'T remove that rear shock!!!LOL.Totally unnecessary.

I think one of the key phrases here by Dave was..."we really didn't have to do that much to it...".So if your settings are at the factory values...you may really NOT have to change much at all.But you need to determine that they are in fact set at the factory settings FIRST.Remember...this guy is 270 something lbs.

The factory weights are around 150 or so.If you're in that ballpark...the stock settings should be quite comfortable.

I think increasing the FRONT PRELOAD a bit will help definitely in the frontend wanting to dive on braking.Some dive is okay...but you don't want it bottoming out when going over things like speedbumps or parking lot access drive-ins and such.You know...small curbs.The REAR preload should actually be fine at the factory setting.You need to find out IF it IS set there,or has been changed.

You want the chassis to remain level when hitting dips and stuff.Not harsh.Jarring.Or pogoing.Don't forget...as speed increases...so do the inputs to the suspension.The forces increase.It will feel different at 5mph than it does at 90.You need to determine how you're gonna been primarily riding.

I would...CALL the previous owner and ask if he's changed any settings...especially for the rear shock.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/19/2015 @ 8:14 AM *

MAddy, you may have to look around for a preload tool that fits in the tight space to adjust those lock rings. Or you can go Old School on it if you don't mind beating the tar out of the rings with a hammer and screwdriver....
Not the prettiest method.

Mad

Also, when I did mine, I think I removed the right side footpeg bracket to give me some more room. But check and see, maybe it was the left side...

Mad

Grn,

Thanks for sharing the suspension tune video. Had not ever really thought about how to tune the suspension. After watching part 1 and 2 I think it is time for me to see if my bike is set up right for me. Mine is also an 06 but only has 10k and I doubt the original owner did anything with it.

Dave

Or you can go Old School on it if you don't mind beating the tar out of the rings with a hammer and screwdriver....
Not the prettiest method.

What I have indicated in my maintenance log is that each 360° turn of the adjuster nut results in approximately a 3.5 mm increase/decrease in spring length. I turned my rear preload adjuster nut 4 complete revolutions from where it was set when brand new. My rear shock spring with no load now measures 7 1/8 inch in length.

Mind you, this is for the Gen1. IDK how similar the Gen2 shock is. I cannot even say for sure if it at all like the Gen1 shock. Never looked at the Gen2 shock.

Is this an OHLINS shock? OH god girl, don't beat on that with a hammer. You can, but that's too nice of a part that you probably will never want to replace with anything better so I'd get the proper spanner. Kaw may sell it. The Gen1 shock spanner was $40. If it's an ohlins, Ohlins will have all the special tool including spanners to work on their products. I'd go with the spanner no matter what you have...but I'm sort of a wrenching purist.

I agree with Grn, no need to remove the shock to adjust the preload. That would make the whole job a lot more work and you'd have to hold the shock in a vice which could be risky (wouldn't want to crush it) and prolly scrape the finish a little. Then you'd have to put it back on and maybe you'd feel it was TOO soft and bouncy.

If this is anything like the Gen1 14's OEM shock, I'd say bike up on rear stand and spanner. Be really careful about tipping the bike off the stand if the locknut is tight.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/19/2015 @ 9:34 AM *

Y/W.Much easier really than trying to explain...bouncing off the seat would seem to indicate a too stiff rear spring setting...along with too much compression damping.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/19/2015 @ 9:34 AM *

I use a long, flat-nosed punch and a hammer for setting the rear preload adjustment. Only problem, most Zx-14s don't have centerstands and a rear track stand keeps the spring fully loaded with the weight of the machine, making it that much more difficult to turn the adjuster ring and it's lock ring on their threads.

Before you get the chance to get the suspension set up you can
refer to the Sport Rider Magazine suggested suspension settings
as a quick reference.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/suggested-sport-bike-motorcycle-suspension-settings

It is way to stiff and i bounce off the seat on bumps.

1. Spring: Top of the nut that you loosen or tighten the front spring, 14mm is standard, or grow the lines by unscrewing out to 19mm from the bottom ring(read) to the top of the hex you used to loosen/tighten. So plush means more rings, more spring unwound. 16mm is plush, 4mm is harsh and that's that max range of less rings showing. All this should be written down as you go. 16mm might now work, 15mm will, who knows the setting for plush is try and find it for your comfort.

2. Rebound: Is the piggy screw in the middle of the spring/ring housing. It's 8 clicks out from no longer clicks is clockwise in to seat. The next click is not there so do not force from there is use a small screwdriver so no force at the needle and taper or it's a new fork assembly [if comes only with the assembly meaning]. 15 clicks out is that range, but the more clicks out, the faster the fork is sent to the ground; once compressed. This is where you blend the rebound with compression. Let the rebound hang, the front end drops before the fork rebounds to the ground... think.

3. Compression: Is found at the bottom of the front fork and is 10 clicks out from zero is the standard setting(s). So to plush the front end 18 clicks out is max at the lower fork. Again, here is where you write down your combinations for the front. Both forks will run the same numbers and adjust from there once the harsh jolt clears itself, the bumps are softer in input, etc.

RR Shock:

Rebound is 2 clicks out, 2-3/4 and do not force that screw out, that's as far as it travels.
Compression is 2 clicks out from a seated position, but 6 clicks out as far as it goes.
Spring height is found with a sag setting.

If we run the compression out [with rebound], this will pogo-stick the rear shock as in just the shock is taking up the energy. So if you are still stuck with the rings still locked, move the compression out 2 clicks [to 4 total] and try that.

a rear track stand keeps the spring fully loaded with the weight of the machine, making it that much more difficult to turn the adjuster ring and it's lock ring on their threads.

A swing arm pivot stand would work. Heindl Egineering or the Abba is probably even better. A little pricey but very useful for most jobs and definitely the safest rear stands available.

The factory weights are around 150 or so.If you're in that ballpark...the stock settings should be quite comfortable.

Umn, im half that and a little, a woman never tells her true weight, but 2 of me are not 150kg :-0

LoL
Maddy xx

LOL...just a comment on the 'factory rider' Kawasaki info...;)Gonna be interesting to see just WHERE your settings end up .

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/20/2015 @ 7:54 AM *

LOL, Why did I just know this was going there.

I believe the 150 referred to is in lbs not kgs. I doubt the factory set up would be for a 300lb rider.

Keep smiling everyone, this is fun!

Dave

Three things I never discuss with a lady are her age and weight and my salary.

it's usually good for guy to not show all his cards right away.

Maddy, I was 190-200 when I was having the same issue with my rear shock as you. That's not exacty a lightweight so it is possible to set that spring for a fairly heavy rider. As I recall, the rear preload was not set at its tightest setting and I was still bouncing off of bumps in back. On the Gen1, the rear shock was not usually the problem, the forks were often considered too soft. I tightened mine up a bit and they were fine to prevent bottom outs for my weight. They always were a little too cushy for handling corners but not terrible. I did manage to scrape my pipe which may have had to do with the forks being too slow and soft. I have Onlins front/back now but I have not had time to test and dial them in yet. So far, the Ohlins seem like a small improvement but as is the case with mot mods, I can't corner any faster with or without them. probably takes a lot of riding skill to take advantage of weight reduction mods and suspension.

Yes i know you guys weren't referring to my weight lol, only joking.
I have no problem admitting i am 75 kg , and im 29 years old again, pmsl.

What was that about salary Danno ?? Hummmmmmn !

You are a great group and i really appreciate your help, Lots.

Thank you xox

* Last updated by: Maddy on 10/21/2015 @ 7:30 AM *

Advanced Suspension Tuning [applied]:

Front ends are now bled individually to create this one push/return move. One fork; only can be adjusted for rebound. The other fork; is for compression. The springs are measured in half steps. One fork can receive a 10 pound spring, the other fork can receive a 9.5 pound spring; for an average of a 9.5 sprung front end. If both 10's were used, 10 is the rate. If both 9.5's were used, the rate is 9.5.

Front end theory applied:

I do not need to be equal at my front fork clicks or spring pressures. Look at how wide a range my clicks and twists can be done. I can run a hard compression, no rebound or the lowest rebound setting on one fork. I can run the lowest compression on the other fork, dial in the rebound on this fork. My spring ring distances can play the same game.

Why I didn't think the front end was one unit in motion long ago, so no matter how you play the springs or bleeds, theory says it should work with these forks as well.

Hub says Quoted :{Front ends are now bled individually to create this one push/return move.}

Wouldnt each leg be half of the total force required?

If you only used one for rebound and one for dampening wouldn't you have a half powered system ?

Now that's confusing.

I remember the air forks, people would put "T" pieces in to equalise pressure.

Maddy :-)