I would refer to the manual with this deal...right or wrong..."adjust both forks equally or an unsafe riding condition can result leading to injury or death".Just puttin that out there.

Wouldnt each leg be half of the total force required?

Being both locked in, it's more a balance of both equaling out in any variable of speed [click, meaning] inputs.

If you only used one for rebound and one for dampening wouldn't you have a half powered system ?

Plush or knock, it's going to be one or the other. This is the art. It either does something funny or you can mess with each fork and set the opposite. How many clicks away is the learning curve more or less. Half is only one combination. You can stay even at the top clicks, move ring distances, leave compression clicks even. I was showing how extreme you can play with the settings.

There are sharp enough people around here to work the physics out. One is going to resist the other and in proportion there of. So the question is; one has to slow the other down in proportion if both are locked together. Look at how the spring rates are determined is this uneven spring pressure in each fork. They are both locked in to determine an average.

Bring the liquid into play, remove the springs altogether in the scenario. Suspend the forks in the air, the tubes compressed, let the axle be the lone weight in that clamped fork assembly; does one leg move faster than the other? Now just the springs alone in the forks. Did one fork leg move higher than the other leg's tube? Are not the forks sort of locked as one?

Does static flow the same at speed as in; equally as well... in proportion there of?

Now that's confusing.

In the owner's manual you have a caution paragraphed in bold letters as Grn has stated. Those are special forks that use the one rebound and one compression cartridge(s) and all that. I've already mentioned to keep them in balanced clicks. I'm now speaking out of the box you find the bike is still too harsh.

Either the bike rides you or you ride the bike. I've played with the clicks. Seems to work for me. So it is back to writing down clicks against the others. Whatever is mentioned in bold, play it safe and don't go there. If they mention danger, you follow my lead, it's your risk knowing 'the bold.' Either this works or it does not follow some law of physics. As if the springs cost extra you run those high dollar front forks. Those tubes have not changed direction because of a spring change if you get my drift.

I remember the air forks, people would put "T" pieces in to equalise pressure.

Yeah, the mind thought equal, but if that was today, one would be static, the other pressured. The springs changed and that average spring rate as one rating. And I remember no rebound or compression screws, so the holes internally were the preset. See the art to this front end tuning?

Now this... take it for what it's worth I can't explain it. Guy says he has new tires, the others did not do this twitch thing. They were different brands so I told him to ask some chassis expert why the head shake when sitting the bike back up? Sitting in the truck bed were the used one and they had the same sizes so that was not it. We walk over to the bike. First thing I check was fork leg positions in the upper crown assembly. One leg was lower than the other. I said to equal the one fork. Having that one fork in the correct location, I said to position the axle to spin in by itself. It was to raise the lower leg up the crowns for this move. This static float at the axle going thru a hole, and then the threads starting so easily in the other leg; is so close in square is how he pinched the fork leg there, not make the forks even at the top crown and guess where to stop up there. Make sense for the front end to be setup this way?

Some like to bounce the front end so the forks find that static move over the shaft end of the axle and then pinch the axle down. I just had the guy tighten the front end were it was sitting on the jack stand. He came back in and said the neck shake was gone. So the discussion was having that one fork lowered, the spring compression on the one fork would not make that much of a difference [someone said], but no one can explain why the fork was out of position was the only move for the shake to clear, and no [extra] bounce so the forks shake themselves out. Go figure.

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That is So interesting, great reading outside the box

Thank you Mr Hub :-)

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Some sportbikes are designed with the rebound in one fork only and the compression damping in the other, only. Those systems must have extra high damping capability since the one side is doing double duty for both.

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With a lot of help from my new friends my suspension settings are at
static sag 35mm.
Rear rebound 2 turns out from fully in.
Rear compression 3 turns out from fully in.
Front rebound 10 clicks out from fully in.
Front compression is 14 clicks from fully in.
Front spring preload 9 turns out (All the way, no load)

see how it goes :-)
Thanks lots Maddy xx

* Last updated by: Maddy on 10/24/2015 @ 5:52 PM *

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I set the suspension on a ninja 1000 and they only have 1 compression screw on the right (brake side of bike)and not one on the left. Like Mr Hub said, some do only have 1.
Wow, so true.

Maddy :-)

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I used an adjustable "C" spanner on the rear spring, it was slow and frustrating, any one know the size of the proper one or where i could buy the proper one from ?
Many thanks
sincerely
Maddy xx

* Last updated by: Maddy on 10/24/2015 @ 6:33 PM *

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Looks like you're tooled up more than the average rider, Maddy. That bike rack has some patina to it.

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http://www.powersportsplace.com/search/part-type/spanner-wrenches

Wherever your budget takes you. Old bike tool kits hanging around? Find that style or use flat stock and go for it. Grind out a pattern like the spanner.

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Yes Mr Hub, i have a few spanners and tools, Bsa c11 hanging in the background (life project). When i was little the other girls had barbies for xmass, i got a 1/4" sidchrome socket set ;-)
Dont think im a winner though, my cooking is so atrocious even the dog spat it out once (not really but its bad) lol.
This was pimping out one of the zx9r's for Mardi Gra ;-)

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Im interested in feedback on your settings after riding it a bit. They seem to light to me, meaning the bike may dive on braking and wallow or move around in enter and exit of turns.

Hope it works out for you and the rear shock problem went away.

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You can mitigate brake dive a bit by cranking up the compression damping or increasing fork oil weight. But some brake dive may be desirable because it quickens the steering in tight turns. It all goes back to how you ride and what you want the machine to do.

* Last updated by: Danno on 10/26/2015 @ 3:26 PM *

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But some brake dive may be desirable because it quickens the steering in tight turns.

That is what I've recently read in total Control. The compression of the forks caused by braking before a turn lifts the rear which steepens the rake and reduces trail. the bike will turn quicker.

It all goes back to how you ride and what you want the machine to do.

haha--yes, if you're fast enough to need a quicker turning bike. I just started braking a little into corners. I imagine most of us brake way early and are slowed down sufficiently before entering a corner.

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I try to gear down and not come in so hot that I even need to brake, but when I do, it means I've overcooked the entry and a little quicker steering helps.

I posted on here once that brakes are for mistakes and some moron who thinks he's Mick Doohan poo-pooed the idea. Within a week, Keith Code's column in the magazine was about circulating a racetrack as quickly as possible without using brakes, which is an exercise his instructors make their students do to learn how to maintain momentum. Idiots who run a race pace on public roads will be taken care of by Darwinism.

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http://assets.hookit.com/RFS/2015/10/28/53b6cdbb-0ddd-4496-93af-3f6adc22511f.jpg?size=880
So as not to blow this puppy up when it loads in this post... Check that suspension out. Just for giggles I did run off-clicks at the forks. I like knocking this idea off my resource guy so he asked what was the advantage and I said more adjustments. His take was the single linear component of say you stretch taffy out and that more or less is linear. So linear is one fork with a single setting would act like a single fork. But to have both forks with both settings, I would then guess both forks are not equal so the linear is accordion doors in movement. One moves faster, the other catching up sorta speak or that step gap.

The slow rolling effect has a hi-lo kind of step. Once rolling I can't tell, meaning, it did not call to my attention, meaning, here I am flowing with traffic at their 70+ speed. So any bumps at that speed took it well. Any transition did not upset the handling.

Signed,
You're red carpet is laid out, the banner is flying with the words reading; 'your call you go messing against the book settings.'

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I try to gear down and not come in so hot that I even need to brake, but when I do, it means I've overcooked the entry and a little quicker steering helps.

Danno, I'm not trying to ride up your ass, just showing where you are at with downshifting vs. keeping it in gear longer. You are engine braking and braking at the same time. Keeping the bike in the same gear till the bitter end is less multitasking, deeper dive, less wheel hop, less driveline snatch, extended momentum, more concentration on braking so no overcooking occurs. Besides, braking is more instinctive.

which is an exercise his instructors make their students do to learn how to maintain momentum.

I think that translates to maintaining a steady throttle to where it's more transitional, (can't tell you backed off, gave it gas). I may be wrong, but it may mean the same thing? Has nothing to do with braking, right?

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Engine braking works and it's what I rely on most and often exclusively but to get to the corner entry point fastest on a racetrack, I'd have to guess engine braking alone would be way too slow. You're waiting for the engine to slow you down to the right speed and you really don't have much control in how much back torque is happening so you engine brake early and get into the throttle a little before leaning in. I've done it a million times on the street and it works but in competition, I think you'd be inviting opponents to beat you to the entry point and now they're ahead of you exiting the corner. Yes, I know, this is competition racing, not street riding. I can still see trail braking into a corner on the street for sport riding but it would be awful risky to do so in an attempt to pass. I don't try to pass in a corner at all unless I know I am a lot faster than the other vehicle. With bikes, even cruisers, it's setting the stage for an accident. I did see a guy ahead of me on a Harley scrape the wall with his footpeg one time. He was probably trying to make sure he kept ahead of me in the corner. Lesson learned--by both of us I guess.

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Besides, braking is more instinctive.

Yes it's the first thing people do in a panic.

in competition, I think you'd be inviting opponents to beat you to the entry point

Public roads are no place for competition

Has nothing to do with braking, right?

In the case of CSS instruction, it has to do with being smooth on your control inputs and maintaining momentum. Of course, if you are screaming at redline, it's going to take more than just gearing down to safely transition from a straight to a corner. With the latest backtorque-limiting slipper clutches, relying on engine braking at all may not be the safest technique. But if you get to the proper gear for the corner, your traction will be better and your exit swifter.

Paul Smart once said his object was to "get into the corners with minimum drama and get out with maximum dispatch". Once you can get in and out without brakes, you can then learn to add smooth application of the brakes to get in even faster. In racing, the object is to come in as fast as possible, apply maximum, but smooth braking to achieve maximum corner speed and then apply maximum throttle to exit. But you gotta crawl before you can walk and you gotta walk before you can run.

* Last updated by: Danno on 10/29/2015 @ 5:08 PM *

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Besides, braking is more instinctive.
Yes it's the first thing people do in a panic.

I left Freddie Spencer out as to who taps the brakes instinctively.

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Public roads are no place for competition

Agreed there--at least not real serious competition. As soon as the smile comes off my face, that's too serious for the street.

In racing, the object is to come in as fast as possible, apply maximum, but smooth braking to achieve maximum corner speed and then apply maximum throttle to exit. But you gotta crawl before you can walk and you gotta walk before you can run.

I couldn't agree more.

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I had to find out for myself so I ran the bike for weeks with the front rebound out of sync. I find out that the front end knocks/harsh/hits/bangs/clunks/audibly. The offset of each rebound click caused this to appear. I returned the setting back to even numbers and now has a thump/bump/plush/feel to it. Follow book settings.

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