Has anyone but me having to do frequent chain adjustments? Yeah I know with the power its putting to the ground that chains are not going to hold up as well, but I'm not beating mine to death. I have a little over a 1000 miles and have had to adjust the chain 4 times.

I don't see any stamps on the links indicating what brand it is, but my 08 had a DID. When I replace chains I go with the EK ZZZ's and they rarely require adjustments on my other bikes.

How tight are you adjusting the chain, it should be checked with the rider on the bike compressing the suspension, then should be adjusting the slack. A smiling chain is a happy chain!

I check tension per owners manual and same way I do my Busa and Blackbirds which is on the side stand. I first find tight spots with rear wheel off of the ground. I've never tried sitting on the bike, but next time I check it I will give it a try.

I lube every 400 miles and have 35K on an EK that is on one of my Blackbirds, and I think it will get 50k before it is out of spec. Also have an EK on my Busa only requiring 3 adjustments in 15K miles since installed.

* Last updated by: RCRandy on 12/23/2012 @ 8:40 AM *

Try it with you sitting on it you will really notice a difference in how the bike reacts to throttle inputs. Granted none of your other bikes have the torque and power of the 14R. Granted they are all naturally aspirated. On the rear stand I go for 2" me sitting on it. If it's too tight it will get stretched by you sitting on it and will put suspension in a bind and when you gas it will stretch it even more. I'm still on the stock chain on my 08, clean and lube every 400 also.

* Last updated by: SILVER14 on 12/23/2012 @ 9:19 AM *

You don't need to check the chain tension with you in the saddle. If you're on your own HTF do you do it anyway? A real PITA. Just find the tightest spot with the bike on the sidestand and adjust accordingly as per the owner's manual. The chain may tighten when your weight compresses the suspension but setting it correctly this way takes this into account.

2" of slack!! Holy crap!! that's way too slack for the 14R. Manual says 25-30mm, 1-1.2".

I guess this has been said before on this and many forums but fit a chain oiler and extend the life of your chain several fold.

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 12/23/2012 @ 11:04 AM *

The OEM chain is made by Enuma.

You don't need to check the chain tension with you in the saddle. If you're on your own HTF do you do it anyway? A real PITA

No not impossible, never said you had to do it by yourself. Once it's adjusted get off and measure right around 2". Friend of mine who races CCS and has one a few regional championships showed me the advantages of a looser chain. Allows suspension to work with out binding from chain, chain lasts longer, takes alot of twitchiness out of the throttle also. To each his own though. Oh yeah Pegscraper Please refrain from the obscenities someone"s kid might be reading this

"No not impossible, never said you had to do it by yourself. Once it's adjusted get off and measure right around 2". Friend of mine who races CCS and has one a few regional championships showed me the advantages of a looser chain. Allows suspension to work with out binding from chain, chain lasts longer, takes alot of twitchiness out of the throttle also. To each his own though. Oh yeah Pegscraper Please refrain from the obscenities someone"s kid might be reading this"

Hmmmm...I've just noticed you have an '08 model 14. I missed that, my fault. As this thread was in the 14R section I assumed you had this model. Maybe the earlier models are different, I don't know as I haven't owned one. Whatever, like I said, 2" is too slack for the 14R. I don't race and haven't won any championships. What I do have is over 30 yrs riding/self maintenance experience and in my experience a slack chain certainly does not mean less chain/sprocket wear. What it does mean is lots of chain noise, sloppy/snatchy gear changes and, if you're really unlucky, jumping of the sprocket teeth. If the chain is too tight then yes, it can restrict suspension travel and operation. I can't see how the owner's manual would stipulate a tighter adjustment if it caused this scenario. Optimum chain life means correct adjustment and adequate lube at all times, not just once every 400 mile or whatever. JMO

In answer to your first question: one adjustment in 9,000 miles and that at 7 thou just after a 4 thousand mile tour on the R.

In my experience with the ZX14, first gen or R, your adjustment frequency is just ridiculous; especially since you state that you are not beating it to death.

I clean and lube the chain about every 500 to 600 miles depending on conditions of travel; never more frequently than 400 miles and that was after running "off road" in the wet thru some re-pavement sections in CO.

Good Luck with the issue; perhaps some others could chip in with their frequency of adjustment for a better comparison?

Well, of course,I came back to correct to two adjustments; one at end of break-in and the other at 7 thousand. Forgot about initial service adjustment.

* Last updated by: PaulAB on 12/26/2012 @ 8:50 AM *

Not much riding done on my R
Just broke 2200 miles, 3 chain adjustment to date one at around 300 miles another at 800
And most recent at about 1800 All adj made on a rear stand with book specs
My experience also dictates excessive slack on chain = notchy /sloppy shifting not to mention noise and twitchy throttle response

Contrary to the slack on my dirt bikes, I find a tighter chain will bind the suspension