I really dislike the look, and the installation and removal hassles of a cotter pin being used on the rear axle nut. Plus, I often seem to catch either a wash cloth or my hand on a cotter pin when cleaning the bike.

A Lynch Pin is a neat solution - maybe:

Couple of issues:

1. It seems impossible to get a "standard" lynch pin which SIMULTANEOUSLY has (a) a large enough ring to go around the axle nut, and (b) a pin small enough in diameter to fit through the axle hole and nut slots without requiring impossibly exact alignment of the axle hole and nut slots!

2. Once you get a pin diameter small enough to work, only the offset ring design works to prevent rattling of the lynch pin, and the pressure applied by that offset design might not be sufficient to keep the lynch pin from rattling.

I have a friend who owns a motorcycle restoration business, and he had one of his guys turn down the slightly too large pin diameter on a stainless steel lynch pin that already had a suitable size of ring. THis is what you see in the photo.

I'm going to try it out to see how well it works (i.e. does it not rattle too much). If it works, the advantages are:
- Easy on and easy off
- Fast on and fast off
- Good security for it staying on, as the ring is offset mounted and exerts some spring pressure against the axle nut
- Completely reusable "forever"
- Looks a LOT better than a cotter pin
- Won't stab you or a wash cloth :)
- Ever tried to remove a bent up cotter pin with the toolkit pliers while on the road and needing a chain adjustment?

Jim G

It seems impossible to get a "standard" lynch pin which SIMULTANEOUSLY has (a) a large enough ring to go around the axle nut,

I recall seeing a photo posted by a member in the distant past who had the same set but the ring fit tight around the threads of the axle that protrude from the nut. Looked neat but I might be concerned about possibly damaging the beginning threads of the axle with the tight fit. You could cut that ring with a grinder and solder it back to a small enough diameter to match the diameter of the castles on the axle nut. CAn't solder stainless?? Just make a new ring out of ordinary steel rod wound around a dowel (look up making jewelry chain links on Youtube). No matter what, if it is not tight against the threads, it will rattle. A carefully placed gob of RTV would solve that.

I used to use a reusable cotter pin. Sorta looked like a giant bobby pin. It worked just fine.

Now I use no cotter pin at all because of my axle sliders and I only torque to about 45 ft lb because of my Carrazzeria wheel. Never had that axle nut move in 25,000 miles of use. The axle blocks will keep the wheel stable if if it ever came loose. Just saying, that cotter pin is a backup and very unlikely to ever be needed. Not that I'm against being extra safe!

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/24/2019 @ 10:23 AM *

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The RTV idea is a cool solution to any potential rattle! Easy to apply and easy to remove when an axle adjustment is needed. I'll try that if it's needed.

Jim G

I'd try white RTV because it is easy to remove. Black is a lot stronger but hard to remove without scraping.

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Ah, ok!

Jim G

I never did apply any RTV because the lynch pin seemed to be staying in place without needing it. BUT then . . .

On a recent ride, after I returned home and was locking up the bike, I noticed that the lynch pin was GONE! I guess one of the bumps along the way must have dislodged it.

Too bad, because it looked great compared to a bent cotter pin. :(

Jim G

Bummer. Go for one of those oversized bobby pin looking things.

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The problem, just as for the lynch pin, is finding one that is large enough to go around the axle nut but still have a central pin that is small enough in diameter to fit through the hole in the axle! I had to buy a slightly too large lynch pin and then have a friend grind down its pin to fit nicely through the axle nut.

Jim G

RTV is your best friend there. I wouldn't use one of those if the ring fit tightly on the axle threads. The threads would get worn.

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"Ever tried to remove a bent up cotter pin with the toolkit pliers"..yep.That's why ya have the long end facing you when ya install it.And I really expected that pin to pop outa there when I read this.Good thing it didn't hit yer tire there.S'pose to replace those cotter pins each time anyway.You could add a dab of superglue to the pin on top.That'd hold it probably.I thought about using one as well...never actually followed up.The cotters work okay for me.Carry a few spares anyway.Also a needle nose plier.

" Just saying, that cotter pin is a backup and very unlikely to ever be needed. Not that I'm against being extra safe!"...yeppers;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/2/2019 @ 12:00 PM *

Here is my solution ...

and without going into great detail, I lost an oil filler cap once...Never again..:)

I use the exact same set up as Chrly. Been using those clips since way back in my racing days.

Mad

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Ah! What is the proper technical name for that thing that looks like a giant safety pin? THAT's what I need!

Jim G

Cant for teh life of me, remember what they are called Jim..

Gilles rear axle nut works pretty nicely, eliminates the pin altogether, has an internal locking mechanism, drops a little weight too..

Gilles Tooling axle nut

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I'll have a look at that!

Jim G

What tool do you use to turn and tighten that Gilles rear axle nut? Its shape is NOT hexagonal, and the tiny flats that ARE on the nut perimeter seem way too small to handle the high torque that you are supposed to tighten that axle nut to (isn't the target torque around 90 ft lb?).

Jim G

Jim, it's a standard hex. It's a well engineered titanium piece, I don't use 90 ft lbs, closer to 70 I think.

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Oh, ok! How much weight does it take off versus the OEM axle nut?

Jim G

Gilles axle nut is about 20 grams..

I'll see if I can find the stock axle nut weight tomorrow. I also shaved down my axle to fit this nut and am using gilles axle adjusters with custom Ti bolts and nuts..

Gilles axle nut

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Rook might have the axle nut weight somewhere in his records.

Jim G

I don't have a stock axle nut. But there's the removal of the end of the axle, cotter pin, and the new nut probably weighs about 1/3 the stock nut.

Countershaft sprocket nut is about 64 grams, Ti is 24..

I also have Ti drive sprocket nuts, clutch nut (slipper delete), and Ti clutch spring bolts and mounts..

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 6/22/2019 @ 12:09 PM *

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And I see the BST CF wheels. I had BST wheels on my recent Yamaha R3, which I got down to 299.5 lb before gas, and up to 52 crank hp with a special Graves prototype kit. The weight saving on the R3 wheels alone was about 11.25 lb.

But on the 2017 ZX-14R, the OEM wheels are very light for OEM wheels, and the saving is surprisingly proportionately notably smaller than on the R3, and the BSTs are VERY costly to get into Canada (well north of $4k Canadian). :(

Besides the handling and acceleration advantages, the BST wheels made wheel washing and waxing WAY easier, because of their few spokes, no ridges, and very simple shape. I loved them.

Jim G

The rear brake setup is also unique. Metal matrix rotor is about half the weight of stock one, the Beringer caliper and bracket is stronger than stock structurally, but about half the weight of the stock piece..

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Rook might have the axle nut weight somewhere in his records.

No not yet but I have it off right now and will weigh it. Axle too. Go for a Ti axle. Probably only about $800!

Love that Berringer caliper, Cool. I'm still dreaming about a front/back set for one of the bikes.

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