Thanks Grn;
I did what you suggested.Pressed the 2 buttons and error 25 came up.Read my manual and went to the table.It said a gear selecter problem.Why is that in DFI?I looked down at the wiring and 2 wires were seperated from where I took Ivans TRE device off a few years ago and cut them and taped them up.Taped it back up.Put the speeddrd back in started it up and it was fine.
Craig

hmmmmmm, got me! I'd follow Grn'sadvice above. Find the code number and then you will know what part is throwing the code.

The "FI light" you refer to is flashing on the multi function meter LCD display, right? If so, you should be able to retreive the code # as Grn suggested above.

I doubt very much if it has anything to do with the white connector. All I did was wrap mine up in plastic. No codes here.

I took a big screw driver and hit the cam side and just yanked it all to I fell on my butt.I didn't plug my connecter like you suggested.

It didn't.Was error 25.Gear selecter problem.A wire got busted when I disconnected Ivans TRE a few years ago.Back to normal.Thanx Rook.
Craig

Glad you got 'er figured out Craig. Suppose you just need to solder that wire back together and you will be back in action!!

Hey All...

New member here, I just wanted to say thanks for this post. I just installed the Muzzys set in 08 and this guide was a huge help.

I did want to mention one thing: On the air box plug, just as Rook said, it doesn't fit without possibly causing damage. So I tried an old mechanics trick that a friend taught me, I froze it. Put it in the freezer for just over 24 hours while I worked on other stuff on the bike. Freezing shrinks the aluminum...not a lot, just a very tiny amount, but it was enough that with a firm push, it slid right in, nice and snug. After it thawed and expanded, it was solid in the rubber fitting.

Hope this helps someone...

Thanks Again...

AMAZING!!!!----somebody get Hub!!!!

Thanks very much for the extremely cool technique beigs. I am going to copyy your post and edit into the tutorial.

Hey, where did you get that plastic plug? I'm doing this job soon.

C

I came across some 1 inch round end cap plugs at Lowe’s and that seemed to work very well to fit the grommet after I reduced the outside diameter of the plug with sand paper held flat on the edge of a table top. I held the sanded plug close to a small flame on the kitchen stove to burn away the fuzz that turned up from sanding. I made the plugs ribbing about the same diameter as the Muzzy plug and used a little silicone spray on it. It snapped right into the hole like it fit the diameter and also locked onto thickness of the grommet perfectly.

lightest weight option I know of.

I found this at Lowe's in the aisle where furniture end caps and floor protector stuff is located. These came in a small plastic bag of 2 or 4.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/10/2013 @ 1:31 PM *

Rook our anyone who has purchased the Muzzy Block-off plates, did you guys have gaskets that came with yours? Cause on Muzzy's site they show the plates with gaskets.

No. No gaskets with mine. I think I asked about that and if there was supposed to be gaskets, I'd have them.

 http://www.muzzys.com/block-off_plates/index.html

The pics and copy you see on the site are prolly a general description for all models of bike they make the plates for. If I recall, you just leave the reed valves in place. There are no OEM gaskets for the ZX-14 reed valve covers. Email Schnitz or Muzzy and ask one of those guys.

It is possible that the kits have been upgraded since I installed mine. I think it is as I explained above but let me know if I'm wrong on this. I'd take mine off and put some kind of gasket in there.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/18/2013 @ 9:30 PM *

ROOK WHAT HAPPENED TO THE PICS?
BRUCE

coming right UP! Thanks for letting me know.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/25/2014 @ 9:37 PM *

DRAT! I've exceeded my free bandwidth allowance on Photobucket. This is am emergency. My pics are beinh held ransome for $30/year. I can't even post a link to the pic for you to view on on Photobucket.

I'll see if I can find some other free pic sharing site but I don't when my pics will be viewable again.

HA! Parts are not in yet so relax and enjoy your weekend. I will keep checking and if you get it fixed great, if not I can go on.... :-)))))))))))
Bruce

I'm getting some suggetions for new hosting of my pics. when I get that, this will be the first tutorial I update. All of my tutorials have the pics blocked except for a few that were loaded way back.

If the pics aren't up in time and you need help, PM me. I'll email you a copy of the tutorial with pics if you like.

REMOVING BLOCKOFF PLATES

I just took mine off and the screws need to be replaced. That little 4mm hex in the Muzzy roundhead screws doesn't hold up well to torqueing. I don't trust the screws provided by Muzzy for another go around. I'll be replacing them with socket cap screws like the OEM screws.

WOW, just barely got the left front screw to break loose without stripping the hex. If you use the screws supplied by Muzzy, I'd suggest NOT using loktite. The threads in my valve cover are tight with old loktite. Should act like a nylock. I'm just going to torque the brand new screws I put in without using any loktite this time.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/10/2014 @ 6:14 PM *

This after 15000 miles. They look dirtier than they did at 28,000 when I took the PAIR off and replaced with blockoff plates. What do you suppose is happening downstream of the reed valves? What happens to the combustion byproducts if they are not helped to burn by the PAIR?

Left

Right

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/4/2014 @ 7:42 PM *

Lets walk this thru from start to finish so we see matter in its 3 forms and a flow of air dynamics:

You know I'm not schooled in any way so it's not going to be all scientific with the proper rules applied. We start with the basics and see who is doing what:

Crude ~ That's pretty much black and is a solid.
Gasoline ~ That's this crude, distilled and processed into a liquid.
Ex. Gas ~ That pretty much sums it up as in a gas.

The next step is to look at the rules or laws of, 'you cannot create or destroy matter.'
The next step in the thought precess is, 'for every action-react, there is an equal and opposite, because you know the gas is moving out the port in a straight shot, but it's so supersonic in the reverse movement, that it moves up the blockoff caps. And that's where the opposite comes into play as that hot liquid/gas/solid, licks and sticks on a surface, or since you cannot destroy that drop of liquid energized to a gas, then back to a solid, it's going all over the place.

As you can see, the PAIR is more like a cutting torch or say if we turned off the accy, left the oxy burning, the oxy alone will continue to burn. Rocket fuel is LOX or highly condensed liquid oxygen. The next step to think out is I am adding oxy thru that PAIR hose. It's simply means, no acetylene needed, the flame will light the oxy up, which adds more air think.

The next step to think is 10/10 or 10 degrees before and 10 after top dead center (TDC). I spark @ 10 BTDC>>>>>>>---@ 10° ATDC-----, My bang after bang >>>> pushing that piston down, I cool off after so many degrees---- back to a hot gas. I need Oxy to enter and reignite the hot gas or flaming out gas. The next step to think is the playing out of oxy at the closed chamber. That backwards kind of effect is here is more oxy @ PAIR. This WAS reheating the cooling off gas or flaming out; which is the lack of oxy; which for every action; the lack of PAIR meeting the reversion; the cannot create or destroy matter; the matter clings to the bottom of the cap.

The next step or thought is to think how PAIR is one big street sweeping brush and how clean that one port looks. Then, the next thought is, I may have swept the carbon away from sticking, but I cannot destroy it so it is down that pipe cooling off and licking on the walls of the valve/port/PAIR chamber/header/collector/cat/muffler/tip/atmosphere: you cannot cause one drop of matter to disappear even into the thin air.

Then, the next thought is, I may have swept the carbon away from sticking, but I cannot destroy it so it is down that pipe cooling off and licking on the walls of the valve/port/PAIR chamber/header/collector/cat/muffler/tip/atmosphere: you cannot cause one drop of matter to disappear even into the thin air.

That's my concern. The exhaust may be getting coated with this stuff. You mentioned valves and exhaust port. that would seem to be even more detrimental.. How much of a problem do you suppose it could be to have this carbon building up? There was a day when motorcycles didn't have PAIRs. I'm sure they must have had carbon building up in the same places. What did they do?

I'm sure they must have had carbon building up in the same places. What did they do?

We have leaner emissions, but still the carbon builds. What do cars do? Nothing. No one pulls the engine down and 'decarbons' like the british used to do with the older bikes. Harley, brits, most would have a decarbon chapter to reference to.

Steam or water injection will clean the chamber.
Soaking the head and pistons in vinegar will decarbon, not take a steel brush, and run a lot of gouge marks in the piston dome. More like a straight edge razor. But today, I'd have water injection to steam the carbon off.

Lets look at that 100,000k 14 and that bike has yet to have some sort of decarbon done to it. Ignore it. It won't effect the bike's running on the street. Racing is a whole different ballgame. Carbon means weight and carbon means displacing air and fuel that could take its place instead.

Ignore it. It won't effect the bike's running on the street. Racing is a whole different ballgame. Carbon means weight and carbon means displacing air and fuel that could take its place instead.

That's what I wanted to hear. But I may mess with decarboning before 100,000. Especially if there is some other reason to tear the engine down that far. So far now, we ignore. I may remove the exhaust to recoat it so I'll get what I can out. MAybe I'll try a vinegar soak...or just some steel wool on a wire.

But I may mess with decarboning before 100,000. Especially if there is some other reason to tear the engine down that far.

Decarbon w/Vinny:

1. Dip in 5% vinegar (costco bulk = $3 and change).
2. Have gunk brand carb clean handy and the spray tube ready.
3. It's been a minimum of 24hrs. before the test of pushing the tube across the carbon. No movement?: another day.
4. Gunk tube slides right under the carbon and that is now in a paste or sludge like form.
5. Spray off the carbon with gunk, or paper towel most of it off and gunk the rest off.
6. Rubber may grow ever so slight and set to that larger size. Ask me how I know.
7. Neutralize the acid in water, or dip in any cheap caramel colored soda. Then rinse with water/gunk it/let dry.
8. Vinny can clean the carbon off the head chamber/valves/pistons. Experiment.

Decarbon w/Steam:

A. Build a spray bar that mounts over the velocity stacks.
B. Use copper tube, plastic tube: think out a plan and parts.
C. Use a mister spray nozzle and set the 4 misters apart so they are over the intake stack(s).
D. Using a straight stream will fill with more liquid than air and choke the engine down. Ask me how I know.
E. Inspecting results is to view the piston dome and look for a clean aluminum surface.
F. Either pull a plug, pull pipe, pull a service door as you look down the intake port with an intake valve open.
G. The execution is hit and miss. Hit a few shots in, but keep it going for how long is ???
H. Then, inspect for oil to turn a milky color, or ride the bike so that blow-down of condensation is burned off, i.e., what goes past the rings, gaps, etc., and how many ounces or pints when thru the spray bar that cleaning day/ride/idling.

^^We'll have to come back to that when I get to 100,000 miles or so. For now, I see the large dowel pins that the spark plug gaskets slide onto are carboned up (the head cover is off along with the reed valve blockoff plates). Should I try some Gunk to remove carbon from those dowel pins? How about the PAIR ports that go into the inside of the head? I'm sure there must be two ports there below the reed vavlves. Should I try to clean anything out of that? I'm thinking leave it. A partial cleaning may do more harm than good. You know, like chunks fall off and go down the tubes where I can't reach it this time.

Since they are off, practice with a wood chisel, a straight razor, an old screwdriver with a filed scraper edge and go dry. Put the caps back on and ignore the carbon build up. Every fire it build back up. Every fire it builds back up.
I am not about to worry about carbon build now... Once I tear it down, once I clean all the parts, yes, now I decoke. But to pop the covers, yes, you'll dislodge way too much you can't collect and close off things. Let is flake off while the bike sits thru storage. This dries up some, some are blown off, some of it leaves the chamber, but I'm not about to chase every deposit, I'm not worried, I more anal wondering about other things like a leaner running bike.

Thanks, Hub.