2014 14r....2500 miles.

Just recently I've noticed that when down shifting it is clunky from 3rd to 2nd...and extremely clunky from 2nd to 1st. It is also almost impossible to find neutral when shifting down....if I'm in 1st I can go up to neutral with no problem

Also, while at a light in 1st with clutch pulled in, the bike wanted to creep forward a bit...not sure if this is all related or separate incidents. I'm inclined to think its related as both issues started at the same time.

Thanks in advance....

Troy

I'd start by bleeding the system.

Just recently I've noticed t

"clunky from 3rd to 2nd...and extremely clunky from 2nd to 1st"..shift rpm/vehicle speed most likely.Did you read the values in the manual for the upshifting and downshifting speeds?These are for optimum gear change feel.Probably not too many actually follow these,for whatever reason.But they work to smooth out the shifting/gear change feel.Getting to N from 2nd is a bit tricky.The bike has to be moving quite slow to toe that lever into N.A light tapping touch on the lever should work.

Going from 1st to N stopped is already built in to the components(it can ONLY shift into N when stopped as you say.Creeping at a light in 1st with clutch pulled in....what Nasty said.(could help with the other stuff as well).

One or more of your driven plates are warped. Pull the clutch plates and inspect.

Bring it in for warranty. Don't touch it. It's under warranty right?

No changes to the bike....just sorta started happening.

Bike is under warranty....

Fluid is original....bike is 10 months old with 2500 miles....

Rode yesterday, issues still present....called local dealer and service manager said that sounds like cables need to be adjusted? Thoughts?

There are no cables on the 14R,it's hydraulic. Did you tell him what bike you have?

I did....??

I'd say clutch drag, for whatever reason. Air in the line, warped plates?
If it's out of warranty, start by bleeding the hydraulic line. If it's still in warranty leave alone and make it your dealer's problem. I'm guessing the service manager either doesn't know exactly what bike you have.

I'll be damned if I take my bike in for warranty work where the guy says to adjust cables on a 14R.

First off, all of the symptoms you describe might be considered normal unless they are severe. Downshifts into lower gears are gonna be clunky if you don't rev to the proper rpm. It is always a little tricky to find N from 2nd with the bike running, 1st to N is a little easier. The clutch might stick a little and cause creeping in 1st if the engine is cold. If you are sure the shifting is different than it was when new, you might have a problem.

Does the engine suddenly spin up (like you grabbed the clutch a little) under heavy throttle but no sudden burst of power ? I would expect this if you were having clutch slippage at idle in 1st gear with the lever pulled. I was having this exact issue last year and it was all because of a Pazzo lever.

I notice from your sig, you have Pazzos. Do you feel a click in the lever?

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/24/2015 @ 7:30 AM *

Everything above and also, your plates might be dry from sitting this Winter. Probably not, but a possibility.

How many miles were on it when delivered? Anything over 3 is out of line. Factory QC'd it before it entered the crate. The bike rolls out of the crate and you just wet it and fire it off, take it down the block and back. All lights work with key on. All gears found riding down and back it's done.

Oh boy, my first 14 and now 3 miles later they beat crap out of it is scenario 1.
Oh boy, you ride like you wound up wasting a clutch in 2k miles is scenario 2 is you.
Oh wow, you did not talk to the mechanic in the back, but someone that remembers clutch and he's into dirt bikes and more a paper pusher with pen in hand than a wrench.

That master down to the slave has been around for decades. 1st things first is, show me your service records. Either in your owner's manual or man you will pay for neglect no abiding by the contract on your end.

Change the diaper on the baby every 600 miles and you have yet to change the first diaper. That's one of them get away from your shit clauses LOL. Look at me assuming. Now, go to the dealer and get it solved or be stuck here with opinions after chasing your tail.

Have you gone to the track within warranty? That may be a race bike for the track, but it's hands off till warranty or you are on your own go play before the contract is up. We are at the dealer drive and you need to be credible and all the assholes before you trying to suck out a warranty claim after bringing home a trophy is still, not about to pay for your accelerated wear 'is not normal wear' at a track and that kind of accelerated wear factor.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/24/2015 @ 7:53 AM *

Rook

I don't feel a click in the lever. Pazzo's were put on bike by dealer before I took delivery and the bike has been flawless until now. And I don't have the engine spinning up issue that you spoke of either.

The bike creeping forward occurred after 45 minutes or so of riding so it want cold. Sounds like I I need to take it to the dealership for a check up...albeit not the one previously spoken of.

Hub,

To the dealership it goes...it's under warranty, no track time on it and oil changes at 300, 600 and 1500 miles.

But I do wonder if it's warped plates if that will fall on me or if they will cover it.

It should.Can't see why not.Pretty odd however to have any warped plates.
I have found on my 2013 that at a stop,every once in a while,I'll be sitting in 1st clutch in...I'll blip the throttle.It feels like it's slightly moving forward(when I blip it).Then it's gone.IDK what it is.It's definitely not a problem that causes me any concern.All the plates and such are in fine shape.It does this randomly...maybe on a ride,and then the next ride...it doesn't do it.All fluids are filled and system has no air.I should say...with clutch in,stopped,it does not creep forward.Only feels this little deal when I blip it sometimes.

This bike has a slipper clutch...maybe that's what's going on?IDK.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/24/2015 @ 9:23 AM *

Warranty won't cover clutches, tires, brakes or any other wear item.
I'll bet it turns out to be an issue with the lever. Seems I've heard of that before.

Pazzos you say ? make sure they are lubed real good and that the little center piece cylinder looking thing
is sitting right in there, aftermarket levers can do strange things some times .....

Its a shot in the dark, but worth a try ...

"Pretty odd however to have any warped plates"..I should say,that would depend on how she was clutched from the previous owner..Warped plates aren't that uncommon depending.

Mu Pazzo didn't click after a while either ...after the brass bushing and aluminum got worn away enough for it to remain in the wrong position. Also dirt froze it in place...that bushing is supposed to rotate in there. Try putting the OEM clutch lever back on and see if that does the trick.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=6B654232-1372-66AE-3B17A97EB1E92431&page=1&searchTerm=Pazzo%20levers&show=0

Rook...let me make sure I'm following you correctly....the lever could be causing the bike to creep when the clutch is engaged....but that wouldn't cause the clunky down shifts correct?

I'm assuming we are talking about 2 potentially separate problems....

Sold my stock levers....but I will try to drop a little silicone in them and see what happens....with under 2500 miles (and less than a year old) and Pazzo's not being cheap, I would hope for a little longer shelf life....

Thanks again....

Ah-shit... cara caught it. I missed the sig line. You are out of warranty. You fucked up the clutch pack. Do not ride it anymore. Buy the OE and no shit I can't say it, only under my breath is leave the fucking thing alone and ride the bitch. Butch her is the engineering of bull hit proof is in the pudding. As if a lever... never mind

....the lever could be causing the bike to creep when the clutch is engaged....but that wouldn't cause the clunky down shifts correct?

I don't think that would cause the bike to creep or clunky downshifts. Not unless the clutch pack or pressure plate is already worn out from previous slippage. I think you would have noticed the inexplicable engine reving between gears fpr quite a while before any real damage happened.

I'm assuming we are talking about 2 potentially separate problems....

Pulling the clutch pack and inspecting takes less than an hour start to finish.

Mav, I took a propane torch to a steel plate, dunked it in water. It was brand new, never used. I first took a measurement off my surface plate. After I don't know how many dunks in the water, here I'm thinking how long will I keep the bike in gear, lever to the grip and all that friction going on.

Here platea-platea. And after all those heat cycles I came away with the same measurements when it was new. My suggestion to you is, tc, leave the bike intact. First let the lever be changed back to stock or modify the ones now. Front brake drag? Do not tamper with [clutch] cover bolts and expect warranty where you already broke the seal sorta speak.

I could figure it out with a cold start if the clutch just expanded at that point and now it's cooled down. The heat sink is now in place or not:

1. Front wheel against the wall if we still have creep, then it stalls rather than you adding mph and that adds crash times a stab down.
2. The stab down is the normal clunk, but the test is to pull the bike back against the clutch in and a cold plate pack not hitting each other in the cold set.
3. Then, this is all in one big 3-point toe and heel. While the lever is never let out, the foot is back on the left peg and you push back with the right leg, making the bike head back toward the wall. Why?
a. This gives the counter an easy click in because of the wheel roll.
b. This is a slam up to second from 1st and no noise should occur, no creep.
c. This is then back to 1st and then back up to N all in so fast, who did no go smooth?

Conclusion:
If all went smooth, no warp, no clutch effect, just too hot but saved by the touching and oil it did touch on the lever release.
That means the clutch pack is dead cold and straight as a board and N was an easy find = No damage.
And for an extra kick up the nasal passages, remove the oil cap and take a sniff. Smell burned or nice carbon scent oil? I want to smell more oil than BBQ kind of after taste. Go smell.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/24/2015 @ 5:09 PM *