Took the bike out for a few runs at the street meet.
Only got 2 run in for the night. Stock height. Slip Ons.
Both seemed to fire off safety mode.
11.4 @ 134.6
11.1 @ 133.2
So need to get in and bypass those safety mode maps asap.
I could not believe what a slug it was.
Not exactly the worlds fastest accelerating bike by any means.
The worlds most complex bike to get going fast.
Yes that's a CBR 750 handing me my arse in a blanket.

* Last updated by: 1400R on 1/14/2014 @ 5:27 AM *

CBR 750??? There's something we don't see stateside.

You've got to be patient, learn the bike and build confidence. It will come easier as time goes on. Also, get a strap for the front end,,,,,,, you will be pleasantly surprised what a huge difference it makes on the launch at stock height.

Yeah I'm not sure what you mean by the safety mode either. I went 9.9 showroom stock.

these bikes are fitted with a learner/safety /idiot mode.
when you try to accelerate them to hard or fast they go into a sort of limp home mode in the ecu to stop people hurting them selves.
it selects a map for the STP and ignition that kills the power.
I worked out from the MPH it equates to around 159 horsepower over the entire quarter on my runs.
I know bike makes 190. it should in theory run 9.42 at 142 for my weight if it all happens right.
the safety mode will restrict your STP to under 100 precent until 7000 at wot and select a different ignition map with bulk retard to kill power.
the full power map will have them (STP's) on their way to opening from 50 to 100% between 2800 and 5500
that's if you have them.
It can still select the Safety Mode ignition map with the STP completely removed.

* Last updated by: 1400R on 9/17/2013 @ 5:25 AM *

by the way. what do you weigh on the bike.ie combined.
I weigh 804 pound or 365 kilo's on the bike with a full tank and the stock pipes swapped out for slip ons.

My combo weighs around 740lbs now but when I went 9.9 it was bone stock length, weight, and height. I weighed 180 suited then and only made 4 or 5 passes that night. Since then I have done a few things to the bike, but it remains stock wheelbase.

drag calculator
at 740 you should run around 9.16 @ 146 mph.
this will be a perfect run with 190 at the wheel.
a basic equation.
most calculators will tell the truth if you know the figures.

* Last updated by: 1400R on 9/29/2013 @ 2:35 AM *

I have been 9.16 a couple of times and very regularly go low .20s. 146 just seems like shit mph.

These things can be worked out if you know the true figure for weight and power or MPH and ET run..
Dynos can lie but the drag strip is the lie detector.
Your bike seems to be making the right numbers for a stocko 190 ATW.
I wish mine was doing what your is. It should but wont.
Maybe I need a US spec ECU.
Massive wheel spin or start line clutch slip and timing glitches or incorrectly calibrated equipment can cause MPH differences.
But a few different runs should highlight this.

it went a best of 139 today. I'm just not being aggressive enough with it.
had a head shake top end when I hit a track bump,
watch the way the bike decelerates when it thinks its not in 4th gear properly.

* Last updated by: 1400R on 10/5/2013 @ 8:23 AM *

Hey Slida, if you see it from my ear's perspective, mav is hitting the numbers and it's not about intervention. I think you hit it when you said, 'not being aggressive enough.' Are you in F-(.)? There is no intervention I believe. F-1 would be the better 'sneak up on it.'

If you can watch your tach is the first vid, your vid up here in the shadow [tach] is more for the ear. First vid you short shifted in first. Second vid, you nailed it. Still, you need to clean the bog from down under 2,000 rpm?<(NPI) If you can hear the engine at that higher rpm you are at? That's where you want to be so you more have to burn the clu, or say, feed the clutch maintaining that higher rpm.

You figure it out, she goes fluid or linear is the note. And it's not your weight that is holding you down. RG has a consistently good note out the gate. Or generally, listen to guys leave the line. The pros usually have it right, so it's more, you can find the up an comers that can cut a good light, by that linear leave: keeping that rpm from bogging.

Easily said. Yeah, now try it. It's hard as hell or everyone could do it.

The ECU does have a map that kicks in with certain throttle inputs...even with Ktrc "off".You can't get around it with a stock ECU.(A flash will disable this feature)The only way(stock ECU) is to be less agressive.But it'll kick in alright under the right parameters.Well known by Brock and Guhl.And the rest of the flashing community.Most guys do not feel it when it happens..it's very subtle...but there.When it IS disabled...you can feel a difference.

Turning the KTRC to "off" does not disable this safety mode thing.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/5/2013 @ 10:45 AM *

It runs f OFF .
I need to learn how to get heavy handed with it.
The 60 foots times are letting me down.

"I need to learn how to get heavy handed with it"...you can only get 'heavy handed' with it to a point...where the safety parameters kick in.It will stop you from getting FULL performance in a particular circumstance(s).Ktrc is NOT fully off when you mode it to 'off'...yes...the wheel will spin...all that...BUT...this midrange feature will still operate behind the scenes....this built in mapping...ignition...whatever it is(which the pros have figured out now)was a big concern for Ricky Gadsen and others...they couldn't figure out why certain times could not be hit as in a regular drag bike.Brock and Guhl found it on their dyno runs early on....they could see it...on the graphs...kicking in in the midrange under certain condition.You can feel it when it's been disabled however....pulling the secondaries helped some...but the ECU was still programmed to do it's thing even though the flies were gone.So it wasn't fully gone.ALL the flash guys now disable that feature in there...so you can still run with flies in...and have the benefit of the secondary inputs during normal riding.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/5/2013 @ 9:15 PM *

Duplicating two runs is hard. I'd need two cameras planted at the AFR and the ign's tone wheel. When you disable the tone wheel sensors, what might it do next? Well, the ign and AFR would either limp you or wink-wink.

Ktrc is NOT fully off when you mode it to 'off'...yes...the wheel will spin...all that...BUT...

IDK...but I can truly tell there's a power difference with that safety deal disabled...or remapped...or whatever they do to it.I just don't know what they really did.I do know...it pulls harder and harder until it hits redline...so by my seat of the pants(dyno showed no 'drop' either)feelings...it's NOT interfering...and you can feel the difference with an unflashed ECU....it's very smooth how it does it...but you can feel it between the two ECU's.

I've flashed the full power STP and Ignition maps over the Safety Maps.
I also run the STP at 100% all the time on the full power maps.
I seems to get quicker every run.
on the weekend it went.
11.1 136
10.995 135
10.955 137
10.781 139
The head shake video was the 10.995

Mine headshakes every once in a while with very hard throttle and gear changes...I think it's just me hanging on and not allowing the steering to move easier...that's my feelings on it.When I hold with my knees,and shift hard...and ease my grab on the bars...it seems to not appear.Even though the front is either lifting or trying to.I'm guessing my knee grip is stabilizing my torso in such a way that the bars are not being stopped from finding their track.She will stay straight and wiggle-free whenever I accelerate like that.

I've no idea what the draggers do concerning knee grip and/or bar grip...so my 'findings' may not apply at all to your riding deal.I do run her up very strongly however...Wonder what she'd do at a strip at sea level;)????With a pro on board.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/5/2013 @ 11:15 PM *

this was full power and a track bump.
the bump tank slapped a Harley Rider off a few runs before and I found it on my run.

hot day today. 32C
11.099 139.
10.810 141
10.684 140
10 626 141
Gets better every time out.

I have been getting similar times with 10.30 being the best.
mines the same version as yours 9 (euro) with brocks/guhl flash and mine had the cat in the header. it was running very rich on their flash. I put the brocks race pcV in and it isn't rich now and the difference in power is noticeable. Also I drilled out the cat. I think the header cat was sucking power as my fuel has gone from 20km per litre to 23 just by removing it. I ordered a akra header for it now.

Im struggling to get the brocks/guhl flash unlocked with the woolich unit at the moment. Think I will need the bench tune loom as I have no net in the garage and the bike battery wouldn't last 48hrs with ignition on.

What does the Woolich need to do to unlock it. I have never actually tried to unlock one.
Why 48 Hours?
I like the cat removal idea. You just reamed it out with a drill.
The bike gets quicker for me each time.
Its nearly at it's MPH for my weight now.

Time and start with a 10mm standard drill bit followed by a wood eater drill bit.

Guhl put a lock on your ecu when they flash it so it cant be accessed afterwards.
The woolich racing gear needs to unlock it by cracking entry. Can take 48hrs if its a unknown code.

If your ecu is standard and hasn't been flashed by a send in service then you can use the woolich software to adjust the ecu settings.

I did not realise the unlocking was a code hopping exercise.
I assumed he worked out a way of writing a standard file back into the ecu for a fresh start.
Did removing the cat increase the noise level?

I did not realise the unlocking was a code hopping exercise.

I don't know about you, butt that kind of shit stinks. There would never be a 'good excuse' he could come up wit. I'd do some nasty things for every excuse told I find a perp like that. That's my [waterbored] excuse.