Hey all, I just got my new ZX-14R a few weeks ago. I absolutly love the bike, I went from my 06' ZX-10R and 07' R1, and this thing is just plain amazing. But ever since the day I got it, i've had a shuddering whenever I brake, almost like a warped rotor. About a week after getting the bike I put the Muzzy exhaust on it, lowered it, and had a friend of mine that races Duc's proffesionally setup my suspension (I have him set it up for me on all my bikes). It seemed it become more noticable once the bike got lowered. I've taken it back to the dealership twice now for this. Both times the morrons have said they can't feel anything, and that it's probably the abs (i've tried to tell them the bike doesn't have abs, they wont listen). Does anyone know what this could be, or have you had this? Thanks for any help!

When you lowered it you changed the geometry, including the steering geometry. Never heard of it causing brake shuddering though.

It just reduces handling performance.

Could it be possible they(the dealer) didn't preclean the rotors off from the shipping protectant that Kawasaki applies on the production line for shipping?If not...you could have a possible glazing thing happening.You'd need to remove your pads...and reclean really well your rotors.Clean your pads up as well(LIGHT sanding on a perfectly flat surface,followed by a good cleaning solution(brake cleaner)).
"Motorcycle Assembly & Preparation Manual"
the910ths.com/Manuals/ZX-14/2012-ZX14-AnP-Manual.pdf

IF you have severe glazing on there...you 'may' have to carefully resand your rotors...but you need to be extremely careful that you use mild pressure,and that you're doing it evenly....might be best to have Kawasaki replace those rotors....

"(i've tried to tell them the bike doesn't have abs, they wont listen). Does anyone know what this could be, or have you had this? Thanks for any help!"...wrong dealer my man.Go somewhere else.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/22/2012 @ 12:20 AM *

Touch nothing on the bike as someone suggested. This may void any warranty, you may have caused the situation, now it is your word against theirs... Did GAS'd boy almost get you in trouble? That says, no tampering was done, it is back in Kawi's court. Smack the dealer principal on the back of the head and ask what kind of shop is he running in the back? MMI boys (alleged) do not know the product?

That means, I'd pass taking it there or else, stay there and watch them spin a wheel and see if the runout is within spec? Other than that... Are you? Feathering the brakes to stop? Are you?

The first gen 14's were notorious for front end shuddering and rotor issues. On the old forum, and here, we went over this issue a ton. Me and some others found our shuddering issues were the 14's brutal front brakes chewing up the stock front tire very quickly. Some guys did replace rotors under warranty or bought replacements as well to fix their issues. And some cleaned the rotors and/or replaced pads to fix it. The 14 has extremely strong front brakes, and I think the first gens might have had rotors a little too thin for the task, some times too much weight savings can be a bad thing lol. This is the first I've heard of a 14R having a front end shudder tho, I thought I read kawi had changed the rotors.

Usually warped rotors pulsate more than shudder...I think GRN is on the right track with cleaning things up. Are you a real heavy front braker? Depending on the miles you might have chewed the front tire up.

This all started the first moment I road it off the lot, so I doubt its tires. It could very well be they improperly installed the braking system. But I would rather make them fix it than me try to fix it and them say I caused the problem.

+1 turbo, this close to new they should be willing to try to fix it. Hope they can!

i would say "sounds just like the tire cupping issues or rotor warp we always used to hear about" except you said it happened from day one. The front brakes did occasionally cause these problems which result in a front end wiggle. If your bike was right out of the crate, I would doubt this could have happened from the dealer prep test ride. ...unless he tested the front break extra thoroughly!

I would stay far away from this dealer if they don't even know the bikes specs
I'm also a member of other forums and usually sadly though the census is usuaaly take it to another dealer
Hate when I hear stories like this, no after sales support what fucking pricks

The only involvement the dealer has with the front wheel/brakes during setup is to clean the rotors and adjust the tire pressure. These bikes are fully assembled with the exception of a few plastic pieces.

If it were me I'd remove the calipers and brake pads to gain better access to the rotors and I'd do a thorough cleaning of the rotor surfaces. I'd also clean the brake pads while I had them off of the bike. Adjust the tire pressures too because they probably didn't fool with that trivial task either.

I know you shouldn't have to do this since the bike is brand new and under warranty but remember, the warranty is only as good at the shop performing the work. Some places pay peanuts so they get monkeys to work for them.

Please keep us posted on the outcome of this issue.

This is as simple as using brake clean and a paper towel. Prop the front wheel off the ground. Spray the towel over the disc. Get that all soaking wet and now wipe the disc on both sides. Do the same to the other side. This is step one; disc clean. Step two is to spray brake clean into the brake pads and spin the disc as you spray and brake. This scrubs whatever the dealer left as if there is any.

What you did was cleaned it, but not take some 3-M kind of scuff pad to the finish. I'd throw you out of the shop you claim warranty. After the warranty, do your thing. But that bike is still owned for that warranty run. Don't shit in your drawers. Don't sew a club patch name on it. Don't take it apart and now leave a trail of the original 'fit and finish.'

You fucking monkeys on your end give it right back to you squids!

Now that squids and monkeys are out of the way...

Take a decent tipped magic marker. Move in about a 1/4" from the disc. Get as close to the disc, kiss it once, then back out. This is the 1/2 pie cut, or your starting point to see the warp on the other side of the disc. If that kiss is a hair away, it is hard not to move that whole bike on a grab of the wheel spin.

Spin the wheel, sneak up to the disc. Someway, somehow, use a toothpick even. Just look for any runout of each disc. If they are not moving in and out, or say you could place half a business card in there is the gap, or imagine .006" or less is maybe the limit?

In either event, we have nil for warp, it may be tire pressure and/or wear, to brake pad bite, to disc warp. First eliminate tire pressure. Next disc warp. Finally, are you a... Warp is about to happen'rider'rare are they?

No, not with the day I picked it up. It was there when I took it off the drive, the road test may have been too robust at the dealer's shop.

Too bad you have too much brake dust now. With a paper towel wrapped around a finger, swipe the disc face. This should be one color. Same wrap over finger, wipe clean the edge of the disc. What is this color? With the paper towel corner, spin it so you can stick a pointed corner into the disc hole. Pull it thru some. What is that color?

Don't wipe a lot off. You are looking for a dark gray coating. You want evidence that there is still that coating on. This is wiping away the forensics of the PDI inspection and cleaning of discs. If not cleaned, you have more proof. You start to clean everything away, you have no proof.

This is a common war against warranty and warranty is side with the factory, you clean all that evidence from the dealer level.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/22/2012 @ 10:21 AM *

Spin the wheel, sneak up to the disc. Someway, somehow, use a toothpick even. Just look for any runout of each disc. If they are not moving in and out, or say you could place half a business card in there is the gap, or imagine .006" or less is maybe the limit?

Yu can get a runnout gauge and a magnetic base at Harbor Freight for about $18.

I would try cleaning them out first. Just make sure you dont splash the paint with that brake parts cleaner and wash everything down with water immediately if some splashes.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/22/2012 @ 11:26 AM *

"you may have caused the situation",I don't think so.

"This all started the first moment I road it off the lot",....My suggestions of removing things and lightly papering the rotors and pads was ONLY a virtual last resort IF you wanted to do it yourself.I mentioned the cleaning of the rotors and pads....sounds exactly like they failed to do it.That would be MY first thing.If you KNOW how to remove your pads....then there's really no way they can void your warranty because you checked them yourself.Long as you know what you're doing and don't score any bolt heads or whatever...it should be fine.I certainly wouldn't take it back to THAT dealer if they can't even admit you're correct about the non-abs deal.As for stomping in there and demanding....if you want a reputation for being a 'hard azz'....you'll get it...but your service places will do a poor job with your baby.My .02.They do have telephones....the word that 'yer an asshole' will get around very quickly.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/22/2012 @ 12:40 PM *

There's a break pad How To in stickies at the top of the How Tos section

Could just be a bad rotor, it wouldn't be the first time on a new bike.

My C14 has ABS, and ABS-on-steroids called K-ACT, and traction control called KTRC, and sometimes when K-ACT is enabled and the front and rear brakes are more linked than usual (like today in the pouring down rain) I get a slight shudder.

The manual says this is normal.

But I don't think thats what OP is talking about.

Yeah.. isn't the ABS thing more of a pulse

last time I had brake shudder was from a contaminated pad

OT- anyone experience rear brake squeal,, guess time to get the brake clean out

* Last updated by: leo167 on 4/22/2012 @ 8:53 PM *

R = Anti-Skid the back tire-keep the front end down.
Connie = ABS is brake apply, not throttle apply.

Chunk-chunk-chunk = The rr can keep the back wheel skipping under load. Will the R? No one around here has the balls to go in the dirt and just nail it already!

This is chatter chase your tail like compression. First things first:

1. Air pressure?
2. Disc warp with a paper clip is like pulling teeth here.
3. Getherdone or make 5 pages worth of where is the OP???

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/22/2012 @ 10:49 PM *

Hi,
I am trying to download the 3 manuals:
1. 2012 ZX14 Assembly & Prep Manual,
2. 2012 ZX14 Owners Manual,
3. 2012 ZX14 Service Manual
and I cant download it from no where.
Can you give me a certified link please?
Thank you.