just got in from a 3K run . Through out I had electrical issues. First the headlights would suddenly go out ..and the turn signals would start acting like they were in emergency mode ..both flashing. I disconnected my GIVI top case with the lights and the problem seemed fixed but it wasn't ..It came back just as I finished the ride ..Now the headlight does not work when I turn the bike key on, the headlight relays up front start clicking like crazy and the turn signals are outah control going nuts both blinking randomly ..No error codes being thrown..no bulbs out ..dunno what the heck it is ..My brother has a similar thing going on with his ZX..though a bit different.
Any ideers folks as to what the heck is wrong before I rip all the sheeting off to stare at relays and check wiring grounds etc?? Are we talking screwed ECU or relays front and back, due to all the stuff I added that uses the electrical system of the bike - PC111, Ignition module,TRE,GIVI top bag with lights, heated grips and wiring to run/charge a GPS?

* Last updated by: painterdude on 7/30/2012 @ 9:06 AM *

What's your running bat voltage?With all the electricals going?

I think Grn14 is on the right track. Ensure that the battery voltage is adequate. Check your battery connections (especially the ground at the battery and where is terminates to the frame). Chattering relays can be voltage related (low voltage or voltage drop under loading). When the relays are activated they brings the loads they controls on line. The current demand of the loads can cause a voltage drop (especially at poor connections). If the voltage drops to the relay coil drops to the relays fall out range the relay will open its contacts and remove the load from line. Once the load is removed the voltage increases and the relays reactivates, starting the whole cycle over again. The greater the load the more pronounced the effect of the relay chattering. A 12 volt relay may have a pull in voltage of 10 volts and a drop out voltage of 8.5 volts (meaning that 10 volts is the minimum voltage value that can pull the relay in, but once pulled in the relay will remain so as long as the voltage does not drop below 8.5 volts).

Just start at the battery, check connections.

Spyglass

I also had a wild clicking from the instrument cluster when my battery was dead. I replaced it with a Shorai.

hi Guys ..
thanks for your imput ..The battery is brand new ..the voltage reading at least on the instrument panel is fine.
Had thought to check the grounds ...so will do that first. Yes we figured that it was a voltage drop problem ..so where the loss is occuring has to be sorted out ..I do hope it is as simple as a dud battery or loose or poor connections.
Thanks for your imput it greatly appreciated .
g

Wondering how you are making out Painterdude?

You said that the voltage reading on the instrument panel was fine. What is the reading with the bike not running and the reading with the bike running. Are you sure the alternator and regulator are working? If either component failed your bike would run for a while on the battery, until the ignition system, lights, and other loads drained the battery down. Then you would experience a low or fluctuating voltage situation. If you shut the bike off and removed all load from the battery the battery value would float up and the reading would appear slightly better than it actually was (accurate readings on batteries are always under load "Amp hr value of the battery divided by 20" is a good run of thumb - this is the current that the battery can support for a 20 hour duration and fall under specification).

I would charge the battery up. Start the bike and test the head lights, lo / high beam, signals operation, horn etc. If everything works you should be safe to rule out load related issues. View the instrument screen for voltage. If memory serves me right, my display seems to offer 12.4 VDC when I turn my key on. When I start the bike, and the charging system is active, I probably see anywhere from 13.4VDC to 14.3 VDC. Watch the display and apply as much load as possible (plug in a heated vest if you have it). Put the head lights on high beam, wait for the fan to come on, honk the horn, etc. Does your charging system manage to maintain a reasonable output (keeping the voltage level from dropping).

Looking at the wiring diagram there really is not a lot to the bikes generally wiring system. (Alternator, regulator, ignition switch, battery, fuses, basic purpose based relays)

Spyglass

I do appreciate your interest bro ..Thanks for that .
I do not have a lot of time to work on the bike just now but I have checked the battery re connections and ground. That was fine ..or so it seemed. The voltage displayed for the battery seems perfectly normal re what the battery should show on turning on and running. I actually have it plugged into a charger to make sure it is up to spunk.
Still no joy. The relays are still chattering, the turn signals firing randomly and the headlights won't fire. Somehow some where there is a voltage drop ..and it has occured over time ..as in the last few weeks..gradually becoming more of an issue. It is as if something in the system is failing ..or shorting. I have an ignition module on with Ivans map..a tre ....maybe something there has gone south or the PC3..dunno ..That's another country of investigation. ..
It could still be the battery so I am going to switch the old one back in to see if that heals the matter ..If not ..we have some deep searching to do. I do not bother going to the local Kawai shop with this or basically anything anymore ..High cost wreckers of stuff that even I, an untrained wrench, can do better. I do everything now ..but this one could be a bit of a nightmare.
g

update ...by a process of ellimination ..it is looking like there is an issue with the turn signal relay. Why there is an issue is the next question to be resolved..Maybe the Givi stuff which fed off the signal is the issue..dunno..