Well that dreadedd rattle has started on my ZX14.

I have ordered the APE tensioner (APE Tensioner).

Any tips for the install?

Thanks

TH

* Last updated by: TrashHauler on 4/12/2015 @ 2:45 PM *

Is the rattle a common thing? I noticed a rattle on a short ride on Saturday, gave the chain a good lubing before going out on Sunday and didn't notice it.

Would you like to repair the original [too simple a fix] cam chain tensioner (cct) back to normal? You'd be the guinea pig on the trigger of the tensioner without removing valve cover. If not:

1. Remove OE tensioner with those 8mm heads and it's going to walk out so make each bolt turn even so the load is shared, not pull one bolt out and the other takes the load? No.

2. Stick a finger in the tensioner hole so you can feel your finger touches the back of the slipper. You have the right crank cover off the bike to turn the crank with a 17mm boxend wrench.

3. Your finger is going to feel movement or not. Your going to not turn the crank but place pressure loading it but not move it. Did the slipper move back out or not move at all? If not not at all, install the ape, meaning, remove the 17mm. Did the slipper push on your finger? It says the valve spring move the cam lobe back down. We want to be stopped and not roll back is the key here.

4. Install the ape without the 2 stock mounting bolts or if ape comes with longer bolts, not yet. Turn the center stopper in the middle of the ape so your other fingers are holding the ape up against the cylinder.

5. Notice how the stopper moved the ape's body away from the engine. Note how you are about to back off the stopper until the body goes back against the cylinder housing. This is now a two way decision.

6. Decision:
1. Do I install that as static and butted it up against the tensioner/slipper no pressure; install bolts and torque to spec.
2. Do I install that body ever so slightly out so when I bolt the ape's body, I made slight pressure; as if I was a spring setting the tension; the spring being as big as your thumb is round and long; but takes two fingers to collapse the spring; it's not that much pressure; not that far from the cylinder housing; or I sing and whistle; meaning its too tight; you were too far out.

7. I do not care where my crank sits; as long as it does not back up; I may/can/should move the crank; have my finger as the spring; it's a pinky pressure remember; then use the pinky to hold the ape in no bolts. Did the tensioner move in from the distance you made to the crank turned a few degrees? Then that is where you stop cranking or really; hold down on the crank nut so it is taut and the crank does not move.

8. That distance?; we are talking about thinning a business card sliced down the middle so that is the gap [of spring pressure] that takes up the slack-slack; you place the body [away] from the cylinder Any more pressure and the chain sings on the slipper/tensioner.

Aussie, rare rather than common. 6 year run of gen1 tensioners and not too many fail, if we add up the production runs vs the rattled ones.

APE MANUAL CAM CHAIN ADJUSTER INSTALL

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/12/2015 @ 7:01 PM *

Thanks Rook - great tute.

TH

Thanks Hub, good to hear. I have a habit of hearing something strange and panicking, sometimes realising it's just road noise from a change in surface!

This one rattles upon start up. No road needed. Very easy to repair. I dyno'd mine and it rattled when I started it to ride home. Because it's pressured by oil it goes away. I took care of it when the valve adjust came due. Found the wire needed a pull to make it tighter around the plunger and that solved that. Doubt it would do anything after another dyno session. Most do not and that's a lot of years of guys dyno'ing pc maps for gen1's.

Still keep the ears out for any little thing. Pilots do not ignore new vibrations or poor running planes.