Ok here is my dilemma. I had a 2007 ZX10R and I bought a set of Race Baffles from A&R Motorsports for it and they were awesome and easy to install. The guys over at A&R said they would cut me some custom baffles for my stock 14 mufflers. I like the stock look just not the stock sound. My question is has anyone ever taken the endcaps off the 14 and if so can the guts of the can be removed. I know on the ZX10 u took the endcap off and pulled out the insides of the can. Anyone have any info???? Pics of the insides of a ZX14 exhaust???

Take the beauty cap off the rear. Couple of arc weld hits you see; just grind them down; pull the cap off. See the weld around the muffler? That is a long, one piece tube you can pull right out of the muffler. Cutting wheel does a better job. I took a hacksaw to that welded section more down the tube. Once that broke loose, I pulled this long inner packing tube with the fiber on the outside. You'll cut into that packing most likely. Don't be concerned if this white flake powder fiber call it, drops out.

Install your sleeper muffler, slide the cap back on and bolt it back on. If you weld the cap, how you gonna repack the custom muffler packing?

Im gonna pull the guts out of the cans. Then attatch the baffle to the beauty cap. wrap with vance and hines packing. two packets per can. then slide everything back in and probably pop rivet the cap back on or re weld in the same spots that were tacked before. I just wish i had pictures of whats inside.

Slowninja has gutted his cans. He should be able to give you some tips.

Mine is an 06. I can't remember why, but i had to cut the front of my muffler too (i think the baffle part was welded to the muffler?)

Anyways, i just took everything out, but LEFT the catalytic convertor (its all small, and cute) in there. It sounded good and performed better.

You mean at the midpipe u had to cut it. or just the end cap down by the midpipe????

INSANE,
Being the curious guy I am I decidee to dismantle one of the old stock mufflers I have, just to see how it works.
I knocked off the end caps after using a Dremmel to cut through the spot welds. The end caps get little nicks where the welds were, and the can gets little slotted holes where the welds were.

The first two shots are the ends. At the inlet side you can see the cat just inside. The end partitions are tightly attached. I couldn't move them. Removing the end partitions would not be easy. Maybe a plasma cutter or cutting torch .
The cat is at the end with the mid pipe attached. Maybe you could remove the cap at the outlet end by just cutting it off with a bandsaw, about an inch from the edge of the endcap. That would take care of removing the inner partition at that end. You could probably remove all the innards with the one end open. Then you could just leave the midpipe as is.

I cut it in two, closer to the outlet end. Those inner tubes bounce the sound back and forth. There's only a small layer of insulation type material between the can and the perforated inner lining. The inner partition to which the tubes are attached is also tightly attached. You could probably pull the partition and inner liner out if you worked at it, and the same with the cat.

I hope this helps a little!

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* Last updated by: Sharkey on 9/25/2009 @ 3:51 PM *

Cut the caps off, sorry

Geez. Ok looks like im going with slip ons. Would be nice to make a custome set but by the time I get done the cans are gonna look like shit lol. Two brothers here I come.

they designed it too complicated for what it does lol

got that right. Geez like breaking in to fort knox or something. stupid muffler. Wonder if I just drill were the 4 holes are in the endcap. Just drill a hole in each of those spots if i will make it any louder. and widen the center hole as well.

No, i tried that originally and it sounded like shit... just my opinion

Thanks I appreciate it. WONT BE DOIN THAT THEN LOL

Geez. Ok looks like im going with slip ons. Would be nice to make a custome set but by the time I get done the cans are gonna look like shit lol. Two brothers here I come.

Get a full system!

lol, thats what i resorted to doin after taking one good look at the stock pipes, lol, they had to go

Full system definitely the way to go.

I've learned in my travels (although short.. very short) that it's easier to just go ahead and go all out, and the right way. Sure, taking the baffles out of my pipes took out about 10 lbs, and made it sound better (a little).. It was stil stock cans, and didn't seem to run much better.

Bite the bullet, getcha a full system

Ok here we go insaneilluzion@tampabay.rr.com everyone donate $1.00 to my paypal and I will be on my way LOL

You know, because of the fact that you need two slip on cans it is actually cheaper to go with a full system. I could have saved about $100 when I bought Muzzy slip ons, if I had bought the full system. I ended up gutting the stock headders and getting them ceramic coated. I also coated the midpipes. With the carbon fiber Muzzy cans the all black system looks killer. I also like the look of dual exhaust. Actually after all that and a new custom map, I have gained significant power. (20HP +) No matter what you put on you have to disable the supplementry air system to minimize backfiring.

* Last updated by: Sharkey on 10/4/2009 @ 12:03 PM *

You will like yourself better if you buy the full system. Save over the winter and go full. Head pipe design is better and lighter whole thing is super light. Bought mine off Ebay for under 700. Trying to modify mufflers is a waste of effort and slip-ons don't add much power don't give into the temptation to go the easy route and just slip them on. Listen to the voices in your head "I need a pipe a nice full pipe Yosh Brocks Muzzy Tsugiki etc..."

did u do that by disabling the air switching valve? cause thats the problem i'm having with mine and the full yoshi system, i'm getting a lot of flames coming out when coming off the throttle from the higher rpm ranges

* Last updated by: rcflyer1388 on 10/4/2009 @ 2:31 PM *

you can do that by plugging the hose that goes up into your airbox.

slow is right. Just pull the hose, stich a wooden dowel in it and put it back. No more backfire.

What happens is that when you roll off the throttle there are unburned gasses still going into the exhaust at a lower rate. Any air leak in the exhaust hits the hot gas and the O2 causes it to ignite. The 14 has the biggest freaking air leak there is, the PAIR air system.

I wish Muzzy would come out with a 4 into 2 and keep it affordable like their 4 into 1 systems. I think Muzzy makes a great pipe and their prices are far below the quality of the products.

Hi Sharkey and all

for me to run my ZX 14 in the "Production" class on the Slat Flats at Bonneville, the rules require a stock exhaust system.

I had resigned myself to putting the stock system back on for tuning for Bonneville, when I ran into an experienced Bonneville Salt Flats racer this past weekend and I was asking him for "tips". I was told that if I showed up with a stock restricted exhaust system I would likely be the only one there with an unmodified exhaust system, apparently lots of creative rules interpretation going on as to what is a "stock" exhaust system.... I protested that the rules clearly say an "unmodified" stock exhaust system, but apparently I am the only one who thinks that means that you are not supposed to make any changes.....

I just bought a spare set of stock 08 ZX 14 mufflers from an eBay seller, to experiment with. Sharkey was kind enough to post the photos of a sectioned stock muffler earlier in this thread. Looking at the photos it looks like it should be possible to remove the inlet end cap and mid pipe, then bandsaw the muffler body just the other side of the cap that the catalytic convertor is welded to, then just pull the cat....? Then the inlet end cap and mid pipe could be neatly welded back on, presunably.

Has anyone removed the cats from the stock mufflers and then put the mufflers back together and into service? What was the result?

Paul

"I was told that if I showed up with a stock restricted exhaust system I would likely be the only one there with an unmodified exhaust system, apparently lots of creative rules interpretation going on as to what is a "stock" exhaust system...."

You can tell a modded exhaust. One is sound, two is length. Bring a welding rod with you. Bring a tape measure. You will bump them out with a poke down the drilled hole and the re-weld will be shorter. You can't hide the end cap being re-welded or you are blind.

Run your stock mufflers without a mod to it and then protest the pipe and rule as per quote.