Hi guys,

I have a 2012 ZX-14 and I removed the rear wheel today for a tyre change. The problem I had was the left side (sprocket side) collar was stuck on the axle. I needed to use a slide hammer on the axle to be able to pull it out. When I had removed all the bits it appears that the collar in question is nearly a press fit on the axle and doesn't not slide up and down.

Is this normal? I have searched this forum and have read the tutorial on wheel removal by Rook and it does not mention needing a slide hammer or having any difficulty removing the rear axle. Maybe there is a difference between gen 1 and gen 2?

Any help is appreciated.

Had mine off a few times as well...stock wheel...never had any issue removing that spacer..I do believe they're the same as the previous models(including the one side being 'deeper' than the other).Something doesn't sound right with it...being tight like that...You do mean the collar,right?That goes into the wheel hub?You say it was 'stuck' on the axle?Not right...something's not right.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/20/2014 @ 11:13 PM *

Grease the axle so this does not happen again. Grease the tight fit collar so that slides in, not beat it in. Load the bottom of the wheel with a 2x4 or long heavy shaft screwdriver, not move the swing arm per say, but load the tire so you push the axle out with your thumb is how that tire floats and no hammering needed. Same goes for install. That tire floats and the axle lines up things it flies right in... Again, no hammering or you are doing it wrong. Float is key.

"Grease the axle so this does not happen again. Grease the tight fit collar so that slides in, not beat it in"...BINGO!;)

I never fitted the axle originally but it was plenty covered in grease. No axle I have removed in the past ever required a slide hammer to get it out. If I re-grease up the axle the collar slides down a short length until it binds and It takes considerable effort to pull it off. It's almost a press fit. The other (disc brake side) collar slides up and down as it should. I am thinking of using a dremel to slightly enlarge the collar until it just slides down with out binding.

I'm currently uploading a video so you guys can see what I mean.

Here is the video.

Your text to link here...

"I never fitted the axle originally but it was plenty covered in grease"...perhaps this happened to whomever had it before you...maybe that's a 'replacement' axle(for whatever reason).Aftermarket maybe?.I gotta make an observation here...may be very wrong...BUT...to me...that end where the flanges are...they don't look like the sharp edges you see on the factory axle(where the adjuster blocks fit into).....could be the camera angle,lighting,shadow(s)...IDK...but it doesn't look right.I see it doesn't get past the threads there...something isn't okay with that axle.The spacers appear factory however.There should be NO binding.Maybe an aftermarket spacer?IDK...do they BOTH have this problem?Either one should slide along that shank.All the way across.Honestly...I can't see a Kawasaki line assembler having to pound a spacer in to fit the axle...no way.This is DEFINITELY a first...

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/21/2014 @ 1:42 AM *

The other collar does not have this problem. It slides freely up and down the shaft. Both collars fit in their respective seals in the wheel. I agree I can't see a bloke at the factory hitting this thing in. What also annoys me is that when I got the tyres done last time at a so called professional workshop, they never reported this to me and they would have had to bash the crap out of it to get it to fit.

* Last updated by: Fazed on 9/21/2014 @ 1:48 AM *

Okay...so the axle IS okay....now...that spacer...somehow got squeezed 'just enough' to get it out of round?You may not even see it visually...it could be that small.Any scoring in that spacer inside face?I wouldn't try to force it on there...get a new one is my idea.

Squeezing it somehow doesn't really make sense either...any damage to OD of that spacer?Grip marks?Anything like that?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/21/2014 @ 1:57 AM *

"they never reported this to me"...could it be they lost your factory spacer(it's happened plenty of times)and dug up one that they figured WOULD fit.That one MAY have actually come off of another Brand of bike.God knows if it's the correct depth for your wheel spacing.Sheesh!I wouldn't go with that one...that's for sure.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/21/2014 @ 1:54 AM *

"they would have had to bash the crap out of it to get it to fit."...they certainly aren't about to tarnish they're 'reputation' telling you that.Especially IF they lost yours and pulled a switch.IMO.

I have done some measurements. The collar is not out of round and the same for the axle. The diameter of the axle is 25mm. The suspect collar diameter is 24.9mm and the other one is 25.1mm. I think I might just skim it with emery cloth until it slides nicely on the axle.

I guess you could do that...but the question still remains...WHY is it ON THERE in the first place.You can almost bet the factory spacers are equally the same in diameter.I think ya got jerked around cause someone lost your original one.I've had this happen...them losing a spacer before...one time.One time only.After that...I always remove the wheel myself and KEEP the spacers here while I take the wheel for tire changes.It's pretty easy to have em stick on that hub and not notice it's on there...then they get it...it falls out...they don't even realize it's happened.Can't find it...shit happens;)But forcing a different one on there and NOT saying something just aint okay.Probably a new guy...maybe you should say something...in a nice way of course...if he doesn't know...he should.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/21/2014 @ 2:10 AM *

The galling on the axle is normal and will probably become more pronounced as you put more miles on. Both my busa and 14 have that.

I'd say DO NOT hammer it back in because you will have no way of knowing if the axle hole and bearings are lined up. I'd order a new spacer. Looks like it must be the spacer that is messed up, not the axle. hmm-

Are both ends of the spacer 24.9 (all the way through)? Maybe it is a spacer for a different bike?

The axle nut holds the axle in place along with the drive chain adjuster blocks. I can see no harm in shaving a little ID out of that LHR spacer. They are not supposed to fit super tight anyway. I'd have a slight concern about the roundness / OD of the part that sticks into the wheel hub. Probably not crucial there either but I'd just go ahead and order a brand new one to avoid any possible problem.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/21/2014 @ 12:21 PM *

Take black magic marker and rub the inside of the collar. Right where it catches before you lock it on, try to rub that high spot off the inside of the collar. Why full moon or half moon the collar when it all there is at the edge is some high spot tagging it. So find the nick and dress it down with a tiny quarter moon jeweler's file so you have more control how much you're taking off.

The ID is going to wobble on that end you take material out on a 360° move with a dremel. That flat surface kissing that inner bearing race has to be flat so that is not cocked in the wheel and not bending onto the axle with a lot more seal lip opening you 360'd the ID.

Back to that one nicked high spot and when assembled, you should be able to slip every part over that axle and now slide the axle with all the parts being static thru the wheel between your knees meaning. This way, you know it went thru the outer block(s); down the good collar; down the center race; the center spacer; the center race; the high spot collar; out that block.

That means if you could stack some news papers high enough under the wheel, you could push the axle in like butter: don't forget the grease down the whole axle shaft and clean what squeezes out the other side and onto the threads of the axle is a little dab'ill do ya.

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/21/2014 @ 2:32 PM *

I have been using emery cloth at work in my lunch break. Slow process but don't want to stuff it and take too much off. The diameter now is 24.95, so getting there. I just want it so it smoothly slides down the axle with out force.

That's the way I'd do it. Take your time.