A couple of days ago, my entire display along with speedometer and tac stopped working while I was riding...Everything went blank, only thing that continued to work was the neutral and oil light when the bike was off. Took off the windscreen and notice that the plug in the back of the display was lose, solved problem easily...So I thought...The next morning, it was about 31 degrees out and I began my ride to work...only to notice that the speedometer was barely moving until I hit 50 mph or so...and then it would say I was doing 80 when I really was doing around 55 or 60 compared to the traffic around me....Also, the speedometer would would would not stay on one exact speed, it was bouncing around in about a 10mph group (i.e instead of being on 80 mph, it was bouncing around between 75 and 85 mph)...Any idea where I should try to start trouble shooting?

What year model bike? If it's a 2006-2011 could be gunk on the countershaft sprocket as that is where the speedo gets its info from.
If it's a 2012/13 model could have some gunk on the front wheel sensor. Either way give the appropiate area a clean.
Or it could be a battery going bad, how old is the bike?

Neil

2007, 20k.....i think that it if weird that this is happening after the display and speed/tac
Stopped

Dont forget to check all electrical connections, how old is your battery?

Neil

not sure, just got the bike

What does the voltage say on the lcd screen before you start it?

Neil

11.8

LOW.How about when riding?

I believe you have found the problem, either a bad connection from the battery, dont forget to check the earth & positive connections, if these are good I believe your battery is on the way out.

Neil

usually around 12.0....but not exactly sure

earth? could the cold have had anything to do with it?

Yep batteries don't like cold weather. Mine shows 12.6 V at rest & 14.4 when running, so I would suggest you get your battery load tested, as it sounds like it's shot!

Neil

will check in the am....how does that the speedometer tho

The voltage coming from the battery is too low,(not enough current) to run the ECU, display properly.
When you turn the key there is more than just the ECU, display, also current needed for things like the fuel pump, ignition, lights etc etc. Something to try turn the ignition on, then without starting turn the lights on, now check the battery voltage, let us know what it reads.

Neil

will h i d's make my voltage low?

No Hids should not affect the voltage reading. But I suspect once you turn the lights on without the engine running your voltage will only show about 10 V.

Neil

* Last updated by: Neilp on 12/29/2012 @ 12:42 AM *

running, it should be around 14 volts easily.HIDs will actually take less voltage.So that's a plus as well.13.9..14.2.That's a regular range.IF this has been happening now over a period of weeks or so...your bat is most likely dying.Dead cell or something.11 something at startup is just on the line of failing to turn the bike over with sufficient kick(it may crank,but won't fire).And yes...low voltage will start affecting your displays and all.If it isn't pumping the battery back to firing range after riding a short ways...most likely a dead cell.Going dead overnight...dead cell.Won't hold a charge.

Here's a quick question for anyone here...when running,and you see the voltage...is it...A:present battery voltage,or B:voltage entering the battery(from the stator).??????

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/29/2012 @ 2:54 AM *

Grn14 I am fairly sure it is the voltage at the battery.

Neil

Thanks Neil.

Ok guys, I was wrong...after 4 days and some cold weather in the south, turned the bike on and the battery had a charge of 14.4, I let it run in the garage for approximately 3 minutes in it got to 13.8. So I don't think it is a batter issue. Next thing to trouble shoot, sensor? where is it?

sensor was dirty...cleaned it, speedo seemed to be working...for about a minute...now it won't move, where should I look for a sensor?

I can only think inside your meters.I'd take it to a dealer and let them check it...unless you are mechanically inclined.Another member had this problem...voltages were good..all that...but his speedo kept acting up.He pulled the meter out...opened it up...and found a teensy piece of solder had chipped off something,and landed right on that circuit.He cleaned it...reassembled...it worked fine after that.If you do this...be extremely careful to handle that meter gently and DO NOT lay it on it's face.Just a thought.Removing and checking that meter assembly isn't that difficult...but it's a very 'careful' job...and will take a while to do.You'll need a bright flashlight to look at the circuits once you have it open.See if there's any signs of shorting or discoloration anywhere in those solder points.Do NOT touch those circuits with your hands Hold from the outside edges.At this point...it doesn't sound like something 'external'...did you check the harness plug in behind the meter itself?Maybe see if that's loose?Could be causing an intermittent short?(or open).

One question here....do the needles sweep at ignition 'on' function?Or just the tach needle?

Good luck!

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/16/2013 @ 8:39 PM *

yeah, I played around in the back on the speedometer mount...unplugged, then plugged somethings back up. Yes, it does sweep at the start of ignition.

Okay...so you know it's not frozen then....that's good.Maybe a meter inspection then...all the meter lights come on?

You say you cleaned the sensor...okay...where was that?