Hi Bad, just sent you a PM with my #.. when you get some spare time can you give me a call?

Thanks..

just got back into town

???????????????? what happened, you running ?

oh Romans, I wish.. just finished the teardown phase, boxed up the upper case and sending it to Millenium technology for repair, over the phone price quote is $760 + shipping to fix and replate all cylinders.

I have attached a BUNCH of pics (sorry just want you to see what i am seeing) of the pistons. I expected to see more signs of heat, the under side of the pistons look new. The pins, hard to see, but what i can see there is no blueing, the pistons show signs of "seize marks" or damage because of the cylinder coating breaking loose but not destroyed like Bad's pistons.

-The rod and main bearings/journals look like brand new.
-The oil pan was clean, no flakes, nothing shiney, no abrasive feel when oil is felt between the index finger and thumb
-The oil had a slight odor of exhaust but was still relitively clean for a bike which had 800 miles since last oil change.
-This is just general FYI but the nut which held the countershaft sprocket was extremely tight, broke an 18" 1/2 inch breaker bar, broke a 6 point 27mm socket.. and when finally removed there was no signs of thread lock. unbelieveable.
- More FYI, I had to buy another air gun to remove the nut on the outter clutch basket. 960 lbs of torque in the reverse direction finally got it... sheez.
-observation/opionon.... I am not an expert mechanic or a Kawasaki design enginner so please take this as an uneducated gripe... I find it hard to believe the amount of teardown necessary just to replace a set of rings, not what I am doing here but just saying. My background is with MX bikes and we changed topends on a regular basis. pretty easy job and could easily be done in an afternoon. With the inability to remove the jug from the bottom end and not being able to remove the pistons from the bottom of the cylinder makes a simple ring replacement a complete motor teardownfor the zx14. My understanding is that Suzuki did the Busa much differently.

I only want to do this one time.(actually didn't even want to do it once). so, please guys, if you see something in the pictures that needs attention or replacements parts I should be using, or "secrets" for making the motor a reliable turbo motor or good deal on parts... I am all ears!
Thanks

any comments on the pistons?????? any ideas why they look as good as they do and yet the cylinders flaked out???? could it have been caused back a sometimes violent backfire on decel????

Seems to me a lean AFR would = massive heat.. these pistons do not look scorched...

HELP !!

Junk! Look at it. Any color change between ring grooves, meaning the surface of the aluminum siding? If it looks like this piston all scored or det blowdown on any of the other pistons past the top compression ring? See that dome being eaten on the other piston?

Now you pull a ring. Pull all the rings off the worst piston to start. Put that 1st compression ring about a 1/4 inch down the bore at the top of the cylinder - start. With that empty piston, you are going to push that ring square into the bore with the piston dome.

You next get a feeler gauge, see how much gap you have past that wear area? Top ring is 0.30mm max. Second ring is 0.55mm. If the rings are scored on the face, those are tiny air gates. If the rings are wobbly in their grooves, that is another. Stop the BS. EAT IT!

1. 4 new pistons
2. 4 new wrist pins
3. 8 piston cir-clips
4. 4 sets of rings.

What does the cylinder wall finish look like?

Stop the BS. EAT IT!

Real nice Hub.... already been eating it by the shovel full. Yes, the pistons are toast, that's obvious. But I expected to see signs of alot more heat.... cylinder walls in #2 and #4 holes are bad, see pics earlier in the post.

Can't make the ring gap measurement because the top case has been sent to Millennium Technology for cylinder repair.

Top end parts will be ordered and motor reassembled but would be nice to know exactly what caused the failure.

Sorry to see the mess, been reading as this post grows ,am just wondering if I have a problem with mine that means a strip, loosing a bit of motivation at the moment. will have to wait a couple more weeks till I get back home......
Keep on it it ll go together in no time
Grin

I am finally back in the saddle..
Seems like it's been forever since I threw a leg over the beast. I could have done things a bit quicker but I just didn't coordinate the rebuild activities very well.

I decided to go with a couple of upgrades based upon some of the inputs from this site and just talking with various engine builders/tuners. The following is a list of parts and services that were used during the rebuild.

Millinuem cylinder repair $666
OEM Pistons $275
Rings $120
High volume oil pump Gear $85 ?
MUZZY's oil pump cover $49
APE cylinder studs $130
Carpenter Valve springs $149
Oil pressure relief valve $85 (for higher oil pressure but still has not come in)
Competition CNC stage 2 head porting $600
Competition CNC valve job $250
Kibblewhite SS ext valves $192
Valve guide seals $40
Competition CNC surface head .005 $60
Cometic custom head gasket .051 $95
ZX12 cam shaft tensioner $130
Competition CNC 47MM throttle bodies $530
Cam timing kit $130
Competition CNC Valve adjustment $120
Lower end gasket set $32
APE Cam gears $60
BMC race filter $85
And finally, a 55 gallon drum of C16 race fuel delivered to my door with a pump $659

Put about 80 miles on the bike today, for a total of ~200 now. I rolled the throttle on a little harder today and also took her up ~160 mph. She sure seems to run really strong, a little hiccup when the throttle is first applied. I am not to worried at this point because tuning is way off, at this point I am just happy everything has stayed together with only one minor oil seepage. The leak / seepage is at the oil check valve where the turbo oil supply leaves the pan, goes thru that brass directional valve and connects to the steel braided oil line. Hopefully just a simple reseal.

I have attached some pictures of the 47MM throttle bodies and the porting work from Competition CNC. AND everything you here about Jim at Comp CNC is true, very cool guy and he loves the ZX14.

If anyone has a good contact in Dallas, TX who is knowledgeable with tuning turbo ZX14 I am all ears.

Special thanks to 1bad and Romans for all their help with this rebuild. Both of these guys are extremely knowledgeable and very approachable... Thanks Guys !!!!!!!

Special thanks to 1bad and Romans for all their help with this rebuild. Both of these guys are extremely knowledgeable and very approachable... Thanks Guys !!!!!!!

Your Most Welcome. Always nice to talk to someone who paddles the same boat. 1bad was a big help to me when I needed it as well.

I am finally back in the saddle..

Glad to here it,,,, you Never Gave Up and I'm sure at times you wanted to lol. Rick, you earned your saddle time.
That bike is going to be a beast,,,,,,, Have Fun. Wish you were closer lol Race Time,,,Weeeee

knowledgeable with tuning turbo ZX14 I am all ears.

Great talking to you Spaulding. I can still here excitement in your voice,,,So I know the whole experience only broke your wallet not your spirit lol. Sorry about the long distance phone bill.

More to talk about soon. I hope the cheats saved you some time in Tuning that Monster lol.

Ps,,, you should send a copy so I may proof read,,,,, I hope we missed nothing but over the phone it is possible,,,,,,

Romes, you are a freaking genious! Rode the "Monster" into work today (+51F) and it performed extremely well. No more hiccup when going from crusing to applying some throttle. Now it's a nice linear transistion until the turbo kicks in and then watch out... sheez, she is flying. I still haven't hit the stopper yet so there is still a lot more to be had, I just need to grow a set..

The backfiring is all but gone, greatly improved.

the bike still has a tendiousy to lurch at low RPM while going slow. example: going 10 to 15 mph in first gear with little to no throttle applied. Is this because it's to fat down low? Should I increase the AFR to 13.9 or 14 at low RPM's and 0% to 5% throttle setting?

Thanks Buddy....

Now I need to quiet this thing down before the neighbors start screaming. Has anyone out there mated a slip on muffler to the megaphone exhaust which comes with the cycle logic kit? Pictures? contacts? engineering drawings?

Has anyone out there mated a slip on muffler to the megaphone exhaust

This Muzzy TI is attached to a Garrett 30. Do you know a good welder ????

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I still haven't hit the stopper yet

Limiter ????? Remember Fuel Cut with Turbo Not Good.

Should I increase the AFR to 13.9 or 14 at low RPM's and 0% to 5% throttle setting?

Well sorta,,,,,,[13.8 motor sounds best]. More about the Auto Tune software and all the little tricks with learning to get AT to do what it is designed 4. Big Subject. Pain In The Ass. Off Boost is subject on it's own when making a dual purpose map. We fix, just going to take a bit of time. Once she is spot on,,,, look out lol. Love The Boost.

* Last updated by: Romans on 12/22/2011 @ 5:18 AM *

[b]Ha! when I say "hit the stopper" I mean twisting the throttle until it stops twisting. I guess it's an old motocross term. in other words "WOT"

That exhaust looks great, guess I should order a slip on and have a welder do his magic. I sound like an old fart by saying this but currently it's just to loud for my liking.

I didn't really understand what you were saying about the tuning, sorry. sounds like you are advicing to stay at 13.8.

I didn't really understand what you were saying about the tuning, sorry. sounds like you are advicing to stay at 13.8.

My findings were that Off Boost 13.7, 13.8 seems to be her sweet spot quick to respond and the sound from the exhaust note supports this bike runs best here. I've tried almost all rich lean setting lol. If your findings diff please post.

The real work lies in learning the Auto Tune Software and the learning curve is a big- E . Lots to learn with ZERO instructions. Get a few good runs in and then we start to work on AFR table changes again, And again. Perfect takes time. When you have a nice base map we will adjust. Close now. Lots more to add but not sure how to say it online. If you misunderstand = Not Good. Not to worry I won't leave you hanging.

Look Forward on learning how you are Running that beast with stock wheel base. Mad Man lol

ps.

Send copy of your current map First. Do Not except Trims. Much easier for us to work this way. Hard when we are not looking at same map and your Dyno Run table can no longer be used as a reference.

Cheers

* Last updated by: Romans on 12/24/2011 @ 7:57 AM *