Okay at the risk of sounding like too much of a noob, I have a question. Can someone explain to me the purpose/benefit of a Muzzy Ignition Advance (or similar product). Ive searched this forum and cant seem to find an answer, if there is already a thread on this topic, someone point me in the right direction? Thanks guys!

SOLDIER

I'm hoping you're safe over there.It's still a dangerous place.Thanks for your service and willingness to lay it on the line.God Bless You!Your work will not be in vain.

Now...the Muzzy advancer will allow you to either retard or advance your timing by up to...well,that I'm not sure.But it will allow a 4 degree advance setting to be made.The 4 degree advance is THE recommended setting by Muzzy.I have one...it will cause your engine to respond slightly quicker on the bottom.Mine has been in there for at least 3 years now...with no apparent bad effects.I recommend...but you have to make sure you loctite those adjusting screws in there and let sit overnight before starting...so everything sets strong.ALL oil must be removed from the screw holes and the timing shaft holes that they go into.Very Important you do that.Take care...hope this helps....stay safe!

The white lines are 4 degrees when lined up.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/20/2011 @ 11:44 AM *

Thanks for the info Blue! Seems like a good mod for the money. My next question is does this require additional engine tuning or can I just stick with the PC map for my V&H slip ons?

Now THAT I couldn't say.My map was made with the 4 degree advance in mind.BUT....I honestly can't say that the guy who mapped my engine took 4 degrees into account,or if it really doesn't have ANYTHING to do with fuel mapping.Sorry.I told him I had a Muzzy wheel on there....at 4 degrees...but he didn't ask anything about it or anything concerning 'timing'.Sorry,can't help ya there.I do know that the response without the advancer is lackluster stock...at least with my bike.No secondaries,TiForce slipons.I had the advancer on there way before I got the map....so the map I can't say helped or hindered anything concerning throttle response AND advancing.I mean...remapping didn't take anything away from the engine.But without the advancer on there and using my present map....you can feel a bottom end loss if only just a bit.So the advancer is making a bit of difference.

I know that's not much help to ya.MY QUESTION that has always been nagging at me is..'if the ECU has a programmed ignition timing already working,then what happens when it senses a 4 degree advance?'Does it actually correct it automatically,or does it ignore it as long as it's not TOO FAR out of time,either advanced or retarded.That's something I really don't know...and have never had anyone explain it either.I do know that the ECU will attempt to correct certain running settings when it senses something isn't within factory specs.I've had it do this with mine.But the timing advance amount?...IDK....I guess it's within factory spec so it doesn't see a reason to attempt a correction?IDK.There's probably some way to find out how much or how little the factory ignition wheel is advancing or retarding at a given rpm or whatever...but I don't know where you'd find that out.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/20/2011 @ 5:05 PM *

Hmmm you've raised an interesting question. Im surprised Hub hasn't chimed in yet lol

I missed a portion of this thread. I can't say for sure, but there has to be that dual 'calc me before I leave' kind of cancels out your ignition curve. Maybe it that tone hit, reverts back to the backup of its partner; the backup to the first calc machining box. The box that makes sure the input coming in is the balanced output going out. And if the 2nd black box did its thing, your bike falls on it's face; in safe limp style.

So, that hall effect is more a leading edge and a trailing edge. You leave either edge, one says input, the other has to match that wave in a balance to that stationary magnet. Move away from that wave, I believe the map goes full rang (-) map numbers or (+) map numbers you wave from that one spot. I would assume that wave you moved into is a 'limposition' where you moved the map to limp the plus/minus sort of lost your OEMap.

And when blue says there is not much out there, it's sort of me watching that kit-ECU explain to me messing with a map grid. Get it wrong, it overrides your number and installs the limp or their plus at it or a minus at it. Your spec number you picked did not X to Y the rest of the squares. So it will (+) or (-) your move.

With that said, I have no idea if this follows suit with the hall effect. I would think it would if this is all about timing. So, back to that hall effect wave and are you within that range? I'd have to reinstall the AFR on the 14. Time the bike with a timing light. Run the AFR see if that much of a degree sent 4° flying off the stock timing.

Too late! I just came back from the welder with an 02 bung welded for the AFR meter. Now it's eyesore's turn to feel the lean and mean. Bottom line, the OEM timing I don't have to tell you how smoother the bike is without the mods. And since she is [yours too] a snowflake, I'd find the degree that tones the best. If blue is experiencing a loss somewhere, back it off if you sense you do to.

Shebootie on you, that advance zero'd out to stock you found the best spot!

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/24/2011 @ 4:21 PM *

"If blue is experiencing a loss somewhere, back it off if you sense you do to".For some reason this statement is giving me a sense of loss. Not sure how "I have one...it will cause your engine to respond slightly quicker on the bottom"can be interpreted as "having a loss"...but...okay.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/25/2011 @ 1:06 AM *

Notice the bump at the bottom... The loss at the top. The reason I pulled mine.

"the reason I pulled mine"....pulled your what?

None of your business what I pull.

At 190 it's kinda hard to tell how much she is or isn't pulling.Much easier to feel the difference at 1-5mph.Ah Hub...you're just FULL of surprises eh?See...if you'd have listened to this here squid...your tone wheel setting would have got ya right where ya wanted to be .

Don't worry bro...yer secret's safe with me .

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/25/2011 @ 3:04 AM *