Here's a new question for ya'll gearheads out there..can anyone tell me what is going on here?I'll give ya a clue...it's a new master link..

it looks as if it has be over riveted
B-A

Okay...the link you see can be easily pushed down(at both ends there)to line up with the other ones.Should I be worried that it might break?When I push it even,as soon as it comes off the rear sprocket,it looks like it does in the picture.But it's NOT frozen like that...not at all.Here it is passing over the rear...

You can see it's seating fine on the gear.

IF it is overcrimped,will this condition cause abnormal link wear on the inside where the chain rides against the teeth.Or will the inner links be unable to move inward because of their design.(the outer plate never touches the teeth).

And one more question...can anyone tell me WHY the link would move "upward" after coming off the rear sprocket as you see in the pic.I would think it would remain in line,being pulled from the front sprocket...especially since it does move back in line with minimal pressure from me.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 9/6/2010 @ 1:12 PM *

The link is binding on the connectors. It is ever too tight or extremely dirty.

I Agree with privateer, riveted too tight and its binding. That will kill the O rings in no time.

I agree, that one pin looks a little over done . Roll it to the middle and flex it, it should feel just like the rest of the links.

* Last updated by: buck20 on 9/7/2010 @ 1:16 AM *

And I would have it in the middle of the rear sprocket and lightley tap with a chizel from the backside to see if I could loosen it up.

Cheap Bastard Way

Hitting it with a chisel even lightly will cause stress fractures to expand. Remove and replace is only safe option.

Okay...thanks all of you for giving me your take on this.I'm gonna replace it this week.Like I said,it's not actually frozen like that.It will move if I push down on it.But...it's definitely not right.I think as it moves along the lower rung,it's even.But as it passes across the rear,it does this deal you see.Which to me doesn't make any sense.I would think the "tighter" pull from the front sprocket would strain it enough to pull it straight.Course,I've never actually WATCHED it as I was rolling...so maybe it actually IS evening out as she's running.But without any drive force,it does as it shows.(just turning the wheel in the stand)

I bought a motion pro chain breaker and riveting tool ,along with two o-ring masters.It's not here yet....you guys think I can do this myself?It's a pretty beefy lookin deal...the tools.Anyone done this before,maybe give me some advice on HOW to get the "looseness" right so it doesn't end up being as it is again?And can it be done ON the motorcycle?Thanks all.Ride safe out there!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 9/7/2010 @ 12:01 PM *

Most of the time my masterlinks are the clip kind with no problem but they are hard to fond now. I have my own chain tool and carry links for 3 different kinds of chains. I have used the chizel and a very lite hammer blow to free up a chain.

heres how not to do it blue lmao

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTyybVnVixg

rivet too tight

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWohKrgPeMg

blue here ya go this is what you need i think

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sM022oIyIC8

Okay...great scott...perfecto!Thanks man for those vids...ya...pretty sure I can manage that!

I tried to manage it...actually,I snapped the retractor pin.It worked "kinda" okay on the first link on the front of the master(breaking the chain)...but on the second pin...friggin thing shattered.What a drag!The rivet part of the tool worked fine.SO....I got the new link installed.Turned out okay....no binding.Next time,I'm gonna do the sure fire,no hassle way.Grind the heads off the mushroomed pins,Tap the plate off.Remove the link,and use the tool to re-rivet.SO MUCH SIMPLER!Geez....could have just bought a rivet tool...would have been much cheaper!

In all fairness I have to say..the tool would have worked perfectly IF I had ground the backside rivet heads off as the instructions stated.I didn't understand what they meant with their description of grinding the tips down .

I still however think that grinding or drilling down the outside peened pins would be much easier and eliminate any use of the extractor pin at all(which was kind of a hassle to get a wrench in there on the bolt turner).They are sending me a NEW extractor pin...so I think Motionpro is a great company to buy from(I bought it through someone else)...and the tool really does work very well.I'd recommend it highly.And thanks again guys for all your input.

And Lytnin..I actually did tap the link plate between with a chisel to loosen it up "just a smidgen" after I had installed the new link and peened it.Worked fine...no damage or anything.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 9/9/2010 @ 2:03 AM *