Is there a how to or directions with pictures on how to do the throttle body synch on the 14. My idle is starting be erratic and is idling up and down a little so I wanted to adjust the throttle bodies to see if that will straighten it out.

I think a good shop that has the right tools might be the way to go. Who knows it might be something else bad fuel, plugs, air leak who the hell knows, some times the cost of the equipment is too much to justify very little use.

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=A0CC8A10-1372-66AE-3B994BAEA781FE69

I did a synch using a cheap gauge. I have a pic in that thread. I was not having trouble but just following maintenance recommendation. You will want to get a mannometer (which is a 4 columns of water/mercury/who knows what) that will hook up to your 4 T-body check fittings. I remember 1 fitting is in a very tight spot that I gave up trying to get my hand into. Hub says, you can just check both banks and that should tell you the story as well as doing all 4 T-bodies. I did not need to adjust. If you do, you will need a pilot screw driver to turn from a 90 degree angle -- only tool to get in there. Also order a Pilot screw driver that has the correct tip. I can't remeber if it was a straightslot or phillips we need.

Sounds like you will not want to go cheap on this since you are solving an issue. Tools should be 100 - 200$. I know there are a couple other members who have done a home vac sync using the right tools. You might check with blue07.

10/03/15 EDIT: I do not suggest you get a manometer. Get vacuum gauges for a few bucks more and Good luck.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/3/2015 @ 6:19 PM *

All the pictures are gone from that post. I have a mercury gauge and have always done it on my other bikes but I know each has different ways and ports.

Hubs pics were helpful but if you look at my pic, you can see right about where the hose is going. There is a nipple very much like a bleed valve on each T-body. Each nipple has a rubber cap on it with a wire spring retainer. There is a screw to adjust right there on each T-body also. I didn't need to touch mine.

Got the gauges hooked up and it looks like the tb's could use a little tweaking. Any pics of the tool used to adjust the screws?

yes of course.

Pilot Screwdriver

Be very careful about which one you order. You need one with a phillips head, and some have a straight slot.

The one pictured above (Motion Pro)has interchangeable heads. It comes with a very short phillips which I am sure would NOT reach in enough to the adjuster screws. I plan to get a long phillips bit and that should reach.

This looks like a nice one too

http://www.carbtune.com/bevel.html

Sorry, I have never used one yet. Just got the stuff sitting here waiting for warmer weather.

$168 for the Morgan. Fo.r that, I'd pull the TB's, adjust and retry several times. Might check into the Motion Pro. Already have plenty of bits.

* Last updated by: Danno on 1/21/2013 @ 1:26 AM *

Ordered the Motion Pro model. Comes with some bits and uses any 1/4" hex bit. Half the price of the Morgsn.

Think this is the one I'll go for. Not so expensive over here.

MorganCarbtune

* Last updated by: pegscraper on 1/21/2013 @ 11:57 AM *

That Morgan looks very nice.

Ordered the Motion Pro model. Comes with some bits and uses any 1/4" hex bit. Half the price of the Morgsn.

Already have a shitload of bits, apex extensions etc. from the days when I still made a living with tools. But I may have to get a long, #1 phillips if my 3 apexes are all a little too long. I should have looked a little closer at the TBs while I had them out.

I'm glad you boys said something. I just ordered that tool. I still need to make a run to Sears for sundries... I'll pick up longer bits there.

I would peel some fairings off and feel under there to get a fix on how long a bit you will need. I think a 3" will do it, maybe 2".

All the fairing panels are off save the front upper to facilitate the valve clearance check and plug replacement I just did. Synching is the last thing I have to do before putting them back on. My buddy is bringing his by for the same treatment, but that might not be until week after next. I can see the screw with my small mechanic's mirror.

My Valentine Day present from the wife, just dropped off by UPS:

Too bad I couldn't talk her out of our Valentines Day date. Guess I know what I'll be doing in the morning.

deicrey, Got a manometer to do the test?

Rook I got this for Christmas:

well, you're all set then. hhehehe, I've had that stuff layin in the basement for a year. Better get to it.

I have to say that the throttle sync was a PITA!!! I calibrated my Sync Pro meter. I had hell getting to the rubber cap on #2. #3 was low #4 was high compared to #1/#2 which were even. Had hell getting to the adjusting screw in the middle. Used a telescoping mirror, headlamp and 90degree tool and a lot of cursing to get the high from 1/2 & 3/4 even. Then adjusted each one back and forth to flatline my meter. Every individual adjustment had an effect on the others. So, back and forth I go until smoothness was achieved. Been riding ever since. I have to say it is nice and smooth now. Thanks to everyone that took the time to document their go at this, it really helped.

Had the same pita with the center screw. I found that cranking the throttle a bit to reposition it made getting the bit seated a little easier. Then, let off, fire it up and see if you did the right thing in the right amount. Took about three attempts to balance.

* Last updated by: Danno on 2/16/2013 @ 1:17 AM *