Well I bought BST wheels and bearings from Brocks two seasons ago and I’m getting ready for a huge ride to Georgia, North Carolina, and Tennessee about 2500 miles….. I just ordered a new EK ZZZ chain and 41 tooth vortex sprockets. So I took off the rear wheel and went to roll the bearings and they barely moved!!!! WTF I had to try and twist them with all my might to make them move. So now at this point I decided I better take off the front wheel and check them and guess what they are freaking loose as a goose…..Like too loose! So now I guess a call into Brocks for new ones. I only had 18,000 miles on them and a few track days and countless wheelies. I don’t know if this is bad or not? What do you think?

I only had 18,000 miles on them and a few track days and countless wheelies. I don’t know if this is bad or not? What do you think?

Dunno the norm service life... but I'd be happy w/ 18k on a low resistance bearing w/o dust seals.

I don’t know if this is bad or not? What do you think?

I'm gonna say BAD. But if they are all that great you have to determine if it is worth it to be replacing them all the time. You don't know when they went bad. If they went to SH!t after 500 miles, obviously they aren't worth it.

Given what we always hear about ceramic bearings not being strong enough for heavy use, I'd probably have them in my race wheels and go with OEM in my street wheels.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/25/2012 @ 7:34 PM *

What was the recommended replacement intervals for the bearings in your CZ's, Rook?... I don't have my paperwork in front of me, but IIRC mine said 10-15k.

huh-- good question. You got my ass up to frantically search this pit for literature that I sort of think I remember getting with my wheels that still sit at the foot of my bed. Found the installation instructions along with caliper spacers in my cupboard with other not yet installed mods.

Nothing about bearing replacement but it says grease seals will no longer be used....not that I was thinking of swapping those over. It only mentions cush drive rubber as a replacement part and that is every 2 years or 8000 miles.

I really have to get these ^%^%$%&*ing wheels on my bike. All because no "professional" shops will take the time to NOT damage a wheel when mounting tires! DAMN...I>>>don't want to go way off topic here but I am in a crappy mood tonight for some reason. Glad you got me to find that wheel info, Dogo. That helps.

Yeah I guess I'll replace them with the same deal. I'm going to get the front & rears along with new rubber drives for the rear hub. Ok so I am changing the rear vortex aluminum sprocket to a new 41 tooth from the 42 I've been running and going to the EK ZZZ from the DID X ring but I was going to leave my front renthal on there for this season. What do you guys think? I never took the cover off to look at it but because it was steel I figured it would be ok....But now I thinking I'll just change it out also if I'm going through the trouble of installing the new rear and chain. Shit I have to get a second bike my miles are adding up on this girl too fast I'm starting to think....

Change all 3. The new chain will tend to ride up on the used tooth at the c/s sprocket. Take an air gun to the nut. Machine gun the trigger on and off. This keeps the air pressure up over 100psi till the pump comes back on. Wait for all the pressure stopping the motor's pump again. A hand tool is more a waste at this c/s nut.

If this is a staked master, the pin's squash has to be measured, no shit! That tiny pin needs so much squash before the pin's ends are spread so wide, they crack the pin's tip like a crack in cement. So with a pair of vernier calipers, you measure what the instructions say to spread them at?

"Si3N4 is nearly twice as hard as bearing steels, which improves wear resistance and reduces damaging effects of repeated surface contacts." http://ceramicbearing.com/

That means, no problem wheel standing. Exceeds life of steels x'3 or something like that.
That means, how were they installed? Press or hammered in? Was the center race hammered upon? Are you 100% sure? Like, shim the O/D up so the I/D's race has this huge washer that is open with a gap that will never hit that center race. That kind of 100%?

So yeah, warranty. Not with less than 20k on a set of bearings that are to outlast in all categories? Especially under water. You know that excels in that environment.

It only mentions cush drive rubber as a replacement part and that is every 2 years or 8000 miles.

I remember that, but thought they mentioned the bearings too... Mighta read it somewhere else though.

All because no "professional" shops will take the time to NOT damage a wheel when mounting tires!

Buncha BS... It's so easy to do w/o damage if they'd just take a little extra care. You talk to any of the tire distributers @ BHF?

Ok so I am changing the rear vortex aluminum sprocket to a new 41 tooth from the 42 I've been running and going to the EK ZZZ from the DID X ring but I was going to leave my front renthal on there for this season. What do you guys think?

Little over $200 deep into a new rear and chain... may as well spend another $20 for a new counter, IMO.

Exceeds life of steels x'3 or something like that.

Hmmm... maybe 18k is premature failure.

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 4/26/2012 @ 7:35 AM *

You talk to any of the tire distributers @ BHF?

Change all 3.

Little over $200 deep into a new rear and chain... may as well spend another $20 for a new counter, IMO

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/26/2012 @ 8:58 AM *

Guy's i agree going to order the front sprocket also.... I have to call Brocks and ge the bearing today.

You want 4. The 2 will already be set in place. The 3rd protector is to keep feeding them and spoons.

You'll need 3 spoons. This is a good combination. The shorts you stake in place. the long is for leverage.

Somefun,

That says 3 wear patterns. You change the 2 sprockets only, it is like saying, I'm only changing the rear tire. I can see that tire step-chatter that mimics the bearing chatter steps. Don't you think that pattern moving in a circle has that same sort of fenom left behind?

So, is not that pattern happening ever so subtly? Is not wear of two moving parts sort of spent? Tires spent. Chain and sprockets spent?

YOu don't change the one side of a car's front suspension. Don't you change both ball joints? Upper and lower ball joints, not leave one in, change the bottom only? That is joe-A mentality; 'I'm changing one tire, the other looks fine.'

I hear you Hub I'm doing it all....this way I do it one time....and I'm good for another 18,000 miles.

Thanks 4 tire change DIY advise Hub. I was actually wondering about how many irons I would need. I saw the package offered online with the two shorts and the long. Those protectors don't look like much but for a few $$$ more what the heck? Better than trying to wedge a chunk of yogurt cup in there and what if that sucker falls in? Start over. LOL

Ok, Brock Davidson will sell you ceramic bearings, and he will tell you they will be ok if you don't run them on rough roads a lot. He will also tell you they will crack if you do.

Ceramic bearings work great on roadrace tracks, where they replace them every race.

What the hell anyone needs them for on the street is beyond me, because other than she will roll a little easier downhill or in the garage, it won't make one bit of difference otherwise on the street. You might get .01 more mpg.

Privateer I'm running them because I'm heading to Loring for a top speed run with a goal of 200 mph. Other than that I'd most Likly run steels.....

it won't make one bit of difference otherwise on the street. You might get .01 more mpg.

I'm running them because I'm heading to Loring for a top speed run with a goal of 200 mph.

Save yer ceramic bearing costs...and invest in gearing instead.That's what's gonna get ya over the hump.

Grn14 I'm doing both cuz I don't want to ride 9 hours to get to Loring and hit 197....lol it would drive me nuts! I'm going to run 190/50/17 with a 41T rear and bring a 40T just in case. My limiter is bumped up to 11,700 os at 11,500 I think its like 208 mph. So as long as its not to windy I sould be fine.

I have to say the guys at Brocks were very good. I called them and they are sending me a new set free of charge and they through in the rubber hub drives for free. Very nice guys and walked me through replacing them...

I want to make one run WOT hit my goal and never do it again! lol I just need to check this one off the list....

"190/50/17"...run a 55.Give ya just a tad more speed...since yer covering all yer bases here.

I run a 55 most all the time but right now I have a 50.... But I'll change it just before the run. I want the fresh skins on there for that speed for sure! Lol

Make sure that puppy's up to the factory PSI....you want least resistance going on. Just tuck in all the way and steer using your triple tree top plate.Get those hands and elbows outta the wind stream..

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/29/2012 @ 11:35 AM *

Gr just like rain riding!! Lol

Ah yes.....You've been there eh?