150-mile ride. Nice, level concrete garage floor. Drained all oil within 1 hour, still very warm, including removing oil filter and with oil fill cap off. Let it drain for ~30 minutes ... so all old oil 'should' be out.

Replaced oil filter with new. Re-installed plug. Re-filled engine with an entire 1 gallon jug of oil ... and it seems to be too much ... Oil is sitting at the very bottom of the sight glass when the bike is on its side stand, and as I begin to lean it up vertically, almost immediately the entire oil window gets covered; much before the bike ever reaches its vertical balance.

I have not started the bike. Should I?

I can't imagine anything is actually wrong?

Start the bike, it will fill the oil filter and what not. Boom add oil as needed after that. Just needs to circulate.

Refill capacity is 4.4 qts.

don't bother checking level unless the engine is cold.

Embarrassed to say ... but it's been almost a month since I changed the oil and posted this question ... and I haven't ridden since. It rains almost every damn day here in FL :( and I've been busy with other junk.

BUT ... I did crank the bike this past weekend, let it warm for a few minutes, turned it off, came back a few hours later ... and checked the oil. I don't understand what the deal is ... the oil is still at the top of the sight glass even though I only put in a 4-quart jug o' oil. (reminder I did change the filter, too)

Should I remove some oil?? That would mean I've filled it with under 4 quarts.

Should I remove some oil??

That would mean I've filled it with under 4 quarts.

1. Bike with both tires on the ground.
2. Bike sits upright to check level.
3. The site window has the oil level between the hi/low nubs embossed in the case.
Why?
4. Say I'm in a room and it floods almost to the ceiling. I'm floating in that room and my head is hitting the ceiling.
5. I can breath very little or less air to breath in. Add less air and it pressurizes that tiny space, gears start spinning with crank, etc.
6. I have created a lot of drag, both thru the gears moving in that liquid level rise or having less liquid and exposing gear so it has less friction.
7. I have the crank sloshing thru that extra oil and it's dragging thru that much higher a liquid level.
8. I cannot run like I did across the room when it was ankle deep in water. Now I am moving a lot slower.
9. I have seals blowing out, or oil up my air box, or poor gas mileage I have to drag thru this post to say why you are too high in level.

Not ride in a month...

If you drain old oil, put in fresh without starting the engine, the oil level will read high because ALL of the fresh oil is still in the crankcase. Once you start the bike and circulate the oil, the level will read low if you check it immediately because much of the oil is up in the engine. If you wait 15 minutes to check the oil after shutting down the engine, the oil level will read high -- a lot of oil has drained back to the crankcase but it is hot oil and hot oil expands. WAIT several hours to check oil after running the bike.

Always check oil in the same spot on the same floor and ALWAYS on a cold engine. This eliminates a lot of confusing variables.

Hub - OK I'm with you.

Mrwoo -

Not ride in a month...

I know, I know

Rook - I feel like I've followed what you're saying: I did start the bike and circulated the oil; I did wait hours for it to cool down and settle; In fact right now it's been 4 days since it ran and it still reads at the top of the glass; Oh, and I've kept it parked in the same spot on the concrete floor of my garage, which is a level floor, noy sloped for drainage.

I'll remove some oil. Thanks guys.

I'll remove some oil. Thanks guys.

Good idea if you are seeing the oil level above the top line.

I fill my Gen1 with 4 quarts, 10 oz as recommended in the owners manual. With a new filter, that puts the oil level right on the top line. I feel good about running the bike at this level but I do see I get some very minor oil films around the throttle bodies holders. I may try shooting for midway between the top and bottom lines from now on and see if that stops the seepage.

I run amsoil which are Us quarts,funny thing measured a quart and it was 35oz, maybe they just give a litre and not change the label

OK, well damn, just removed a little oil, checked level, then a little more, checked level, then a little more, checked level ... ended up removing almost an entire quart ... and even then it's still up at the high mark ... WTF???

DAMMIT. Is something wrong here???

DAMN this is frustrating. Got a ride in the morning, too, so need to settle on one level or another. Sheesh.

If the oil is low enough, there is an indicator that will come on if the oil pressure is low. I'm not sure I'd want to rely on that but 3 quarts should not hurt the motor if you're not running at high rpm.

As someone else mentioned in the other thread, are you sure it was not a 5 quart jug you put in?..or did you put 4 quarts in and then accidentally pour the entire 5th quart in?

If it was me, and I was not sure how much I put in, I guess I'd kick myself in the ass and head back to the dealer and get 5 more quarts. Don't start the bike and run the oil up into the engine again, just Drain the oil. don't even think about reusing it. Think of it as an engine oil cleaner treatment and throw it out. Put 3 quarts in and check in about 45 minutes (it is amazing how long it takes for the oil to drip down between the clutch plates and it really DOES make a dif to the exact oil level you see in the glass). If three quarts is way low, pour the fourth quart in and check in 45 minutes. I bet your bike will take 4 quarts since filter filled up already. You were just a little hasty the last time.

Past window = Overfilled - decreases crankcase air; increases pressure when a windmill effect enters; relieved out thru engine ventilation system and up to air box/ram chamber. Ride without redlining, no oil into ram chamber. More oil will hold the heat and not transfer faster into the metal, where the air is cooling off the outside, more oil is holding that heat from moving out of the engine.

At or somewhere in the middle of the window = Proper level in the upright position/both wheels on the ground. Has a required level setting as per owner's manual. Has a balanced air to pressure ratio where ventilation will not travel up to the ram. Level pressure is the balance or we blow out seals, etc. Pressure is like electricity and if the seal is easier to push than running up the breather, then it found the shortest path. Bike runs with enough oil to remove heat and dissipate that heat with said quart capacity.

No oil in window = Underfilled - Engine heats up with less oil holding that heat inside, the air outside is moving in a hot ambient so the water jackets take on more heat. No time for that oil to cool, so it is pumped back thru the parts. Spin up the engine, you add air between the oil, now air and oil tend to run up the pump, less pressure, on comes the oil light.

A few scenarios goes something like that.

Drain all the oil and measure what you take out,drain the filter also, see what the total is