I generally agree with the other guys info. While a new filter and pipe will get you about 10 on the top end, the bottom end A/F hit, which is notably there on a full OEM bike, will be there after your mods, and a little more pronounced. I feel the only real thing the PC III or the like will do is 'smoooooth' out the feel.. and get that A/F spike in the lower RPM's a bit flatter. Closer to 13.1 or what ever your choice.
When it is all done and well, the A/F will model, for normal 'dynotune' tuners, 13.1 across the RPM tune range... at least that is what they are 'trained' to go after, unless you tell them otherwise.
This is an untuned run, fully OEM bike. You can see it is on the rich side for the most part (more rich than 13.1 that is):
But with a good tune you will get a rise in the lower RPM TQ area a little. Worth the money for a tune.... I don't think so, unless you want the acceleration 'smoooth'... Some tuners have a dickens of a time getting that small RPM portion 'flat', but it can get kinda close. Worth chasing it.. I dont think so. The rest of the RPM range A/F is much easier to flat line.
but as you know, this bike is so quick, you are not in one spot in the RPM range for long! And I think Kawasaki did a great job with having the bikes 'tune' about spot on. Changing the timing to 4 degree advance netted me about a 2 HP increase when I tested out the muzzy plate at the dyno.... not much change. I think that goes along well with how well Kawasaki did on the tune on these bikes.
* Last updated by: JDC on 3/10/2009 @ 8:52 PM *