Let's walk thru a failed unit. Say [for argument sake] a sensor running in analog is sending in 20 to 100ohms of range. But if say the sensor failed and went out of range @ 19ohms or 101ohms, we would call this sensor out of spec. The ECU would take action, but your bike would still run = Limp'd!
However, we are seeing we can use a resistor that is 50ohms and stick that in the wire harness side of the two prong kickstand connector. So we disconnect the kickstand connector, take our 50ohm resistor and horseshoe it [ U ] so the ECU looks like it's connected and is sending in 50ohms and that says: I am within range of my 20 ~ 100ohm range.
I now have rendered my safety switch to "LOOK The Fuck OUT!" mode I start the bike in gear on the side stand and you think just kicking it down loses the bike. Just wait!
So, I go to the triumphrat site, here's some EE that figures out how to turn the light off on the dash. He took a resistor of a certain size, it sort of matched the ohm the limp that as a matter of fact is shown in the triumph manual I believe? It turned the light off, but did not turn the limp off I told him. The EE (I don't know if he is, just knows ohms laws and can calc the resistance) is having the same blind spot like the MSD guy.
If you look in the shop manual it says, 'we are going to run in one certain ohm resistance and that means in digital; [using this one resistance]; so watt you did was put out the light fandango but are still in limp.' Why? Because if the code sets itself to a single digital number to continue to function in less than FULL power, it says we used 50ohms [for argument sake is any number is the abstract] to set the limp. But look how you used 50ohms to turn the limp light off, but we are still limp @ 50ohms anyway is how the bike coded itself: light on or not. Why? Because the limp uses 50ohms in limp mode, so you matched watt the ECU will use in a limp condition if a sensor fails.
That's sort of what the guy did was used some sort of number that matched the number in the book [when in limp] mode, was school his ass on his own abstract he wasn't seeing it. Plus, he sends someone to understand 02 [was the reason the light went on is not use closed loop to tune the bike] and he had no clue of that process was [when I] read the process of that 02 abstract and did I send in a post on that shithat was a fucked rendition of 02 was it.
This says, hey, I sort of know the basics and watt it does, but to choose what ohm package from radio shack [tandy candy] and say here is package 1 and here is package 2 and one has 20ohms and this pack has 100 ohms. I'm going to tie 2 20's to make 1 10ohm resistor. Hey, I'm going to tie 2 100ohm resistors and cause it to 50ohm out is out goes the light and out goes the kicker problem I figured out watt the ECU wants to recognize in the digital [my one ohm resistance is now a broken analog] number. And that is within or out of spec is all that testing.
As for the same theory to happen to the kicker? I don't think so. I think it is a ground run of on-off. And that is tied into the kicker switch/kill switch/gps wires that are tied together so the (((safety switch))) has a few combinations not to start: in gear or when kicker is down. Then there is the clutch lever safety switch tied into that 3 way combo off the kicker too.
So are we on the same page with sticking some sort of ohms resistor in the harness side of the kicker's connector?
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time
