Dear ninja owners...

I am planning on installing an Inline Brushless water pump on my 07, she has all performance bits within her heart 'engine' up to her head... CP pistons & rods, up to her ported head with performance valve seats and V&H valves. and lot more.. tuned by Weelich Racing. All sweet and wild power...

i am worried about the coming summer, coolant temp rises on super low speeds or traffic jams..

How will the Brushless water pump (15L/min flow) affect the cooling performance on such circumstances. As in how will the Constant Water pressure (1.5psi)from this pump affect the zx14 stock mechanical water pump which is located after the brushless pump on the hose (as the mechanical pump water flow and pressure is depending on the rpm of the engine).

Planning on going with a digital temp sensor with a relay, or an ON/OFF switch to run the pump manually.

any thoughts on the above anyone?

* Last updated by: SamZX14 on 12/10/2018 @ 5:49 AM *

I'd remove the OE plump blade and plumb in the remote pump.

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post seems a little strange, but.....

Yes, pull stock pump.

Why inline pump? Do you think it's going to cool better? Or reduce
hp robbing stock pump?

What exactly does this mean?

coolant temp rises on super low speeds or traffic jams..

Of coarse it rises. What temps are you hitting? Are you boiling over?
If you're not boiling over, then not a major concern. Which means you're
probably staying under +/- 245f

Have you added a second fan like on the 2012+ and/or
one of the low profile high volume fans?

You can also add a higher pressure cap if you are boiling over,

stock should be around....

water boil at 212
50/50 coolant +/- 15
stock cap +/- 15
brings you around 245 boil point

if you add 2nd fan and hi volume fan and boil over, you
can add higher psi cap which will add like another 15-20 to
your boil point = 260-265f

Boiling over = bad, < boiling = ok

These performance guys that built and tuned engine should
know and inform you on this. That's the part I find strange.

What do they say?

Inline brushless water pump- is this another answer to a question no one asked?

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Bleep-blorp, Mr. Robeast thread starter.

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I'm still debating switching to an electric pump. Just looking for a couple more peak hp by reducing the parasitic drag of the stock pump. Maybe 2-3 hp at redline? The electric pump will hopefully cool better at idle though..

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SUBSCRIBED again. You sure keep my subscriptions list growing, Cool.

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Have to try to keep it interesting..

I've had an electric pump for a while, just not at the top of the list to change out the reliable factory piece for an unproven aftermarket setup that might be worth 2-3hp, but definitely reduces reliability.

It would be nice to try to design a 3d printed thermostat housing and then use that to cast a small aluminum housing with no provisions for a thermostat, but the effort involved really doesn't seem worth it. :/

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It would be nice to try to design a 3d printed thermostat housing and then use that to cast a small aluminum housing with no provisions for a thermostat, but the effort involved really doesn't seem worth it. :/

Yeah especially if you can just unscrew the thermostat and put a plug in the hole.

I must be the king of impractical projects. I was working on a switch panel for some time around the time I met you. I still am working on that project. Almost there.

I plan to learn CAD software very soon and have access to a 3D printer....now you got me thinking.... ...but do you have 3 years to wait while I get it perfect?

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At the rate that this project is actually going, I probably do have three years.

The thermostat housing has a couple of small fittings to distribute coolant, I'm just planning to smooth it, remove casting marks and use the old one.

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Hello everyone
I am from Poland and my English may be poor - sorry

In the subject
I don't think the coolant pump solves the problem.
If the cooling system was insufficient, the motor would warm up above all during especially hard driving - and this is not the case.
I have ZZR1400 two years, I bought a new one at the moto shop.
The rest of the time, when the ambient temperature exceeded 41F, the fans did not turn off at a standstill and the fluid had 203F.
After driving off, the fluid fell to 194F. I put the cardboard between the exhaust manifold and the radiator and immediately the temperature dropped.
In my opinion, the disadvantage is that the exhaust manifold is too close to the radiator.
I'm going to use a thermal bandage wrap this week - apparently it also improves performance.
If anyone is interested in the result I will let you know.

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May the force be with you!

That English was perfect as far as I can tell.

Yeah, what are you going to do about those headers by the radiator? It's all closed up in the fairings and there's not much room to allow distance. It's not practical to have a very large radiator either. You really have to be moving to get some air cooling effect or things get hot in a hurry. Hope the thermal wrap makes a difference. A full race exhaust helped quite a bit on my 2008.

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Thank you Rook.
I do not want to distance the radiator or install a thermal screen - this will disturb recirculation around the sidewalk and deteriorate aerodynamics.
I bought such thermal tape, special to wrap the exhaust 2552F baslt - titanium. 1.5mm thick reduces the temperature by half - I hope that's enough, but if it wasn't enough, you can wrap twice. I want to wrap it from the head until it connects with the mufflers, because the exhaust gas insulation inside the collector will increase exhaust obstruction under the engine. Which of the railways can result in more powerful heating of the oil pan. I already have a bad clutch on a warm engine. I will also modify the power supply for the fans so that the keys can work.
In general, I have the impression that a lot needs to be improved in this model after the factory.
This winter, I improved the body so far - everything was assembled as if, unmatched, unbalanced - a pity of words.
Of course, I reported my reservations on the website. They said "it's supposed to be" - a bunch of lazy and non-professionals, they should repair tractors.
Write if your clutch works differently on a warm and cold engine - factory oil, then semi-synthetic and full synthetic - all the same badly. Mileage 8000km year 2018

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I want to wrap it from the head until it connects with the mufflers, because the exhaust gas insulation inside the collector will increase exhaust obstruction under the engine. Which of the railways can result in more powerful heating of the oil pan. I already have a bad clutch on a warm engine. I will also modify the power supply for the fans so that the keys can work.

You will wrap from the engine to the muffler. The wrap dissipates heat more readily than a bare pipe does but the wrap will increase the outer diameter of the pipe. This will cause heat to dissipate closer to the oil pan which might counteract the heat reduction you are seeking to some degree.

Not sure about that last line. You want to modify the fan wiring so that the fans can operate with the key turned OFF? That will help only a very tiny amount IMHO. The fans cool the radiator. If the engine is OFF, the coolant does not circulate therefore you only cool the radiator and not the engine with the engine OFF and the fans running. Most people who flash ECUs make the fans come on at a lower engine coolant temp and that seems to help.

In general, I have the impression that a lot needs to be improved in this model after the factory.

If you are comparing to a liter bike, maybe. Compared to the busa, it is very similar. The busa gives off a lot of heat to but I must say, a lot less than the ZX-14. Mind you, I only have owned a Gen 1 ZX-14 and it probably is a little hotter than the Gen 2.

This winter, I improved the body so far - everything was assembled as if, unmatched, unbalanced - a pity of words.
Of course, I reported my reservations on the website. They said "it's supposed to be" - a bunch of lazy and non-professionals, they should repair tractors.

The bike came to you with body panels installed improperly? The 14 does have some very complicated body panels, doesn't it? The Hayabusa is even worse! You get used to it after about 10 times taking the fairings off.

Write if your clutch works differently on a warm and cold engine - factory oil, then semi-synthetic and full synthetic - all the same badly. Mileage 8000km year 2018

That is only 5000 miles! Was the bike drag raced? The clutch in these bikes is superb. I have had no problems with clutch operation while using Kawasaki conventional oil. I have had no problems using Rotella synthetic 5W-40. The clutch works fine with a hot engine or cold. Of course, the shift quality becomes poor after about 2500 miles but then I just change the oil. A high quality synthetic (which Rotella really is not) should last longer than 2500 but I would rather just get fresh oil in there so I change at 2500. The only time I have ever had an issue with my clutch was when I installed an aftermarket clutch lever and the pusher rod that goes into the clutch master cylinder was not fit properly. The clutch slipped at high rpm. It sounded like the tire was spinning but it was the clutch not holding. I put the OEM lever back on and the clutch has been fine ever since. I have almost 50,000 miles on that clutch and the fiber plates are ready to be replaced. They are still holding even as worn as they are.

If your clutch is slipping, you have worn fiber plates or the clutch lever is installed improperly. Maybe it is the the clutch itself was reassembled incorrectly. If it is just the bike going CLUNK into 1st gear from Neutral, they all do that especially when the engine is cool. I have always had a little feel of roughness shifting from 2nd to third under hard load. It's not perfect but the shifting on my 14 is pretty good. It's a big engine.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/29/2020 @ 5:06 PM *

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We didn't understand each other - maybe it's my English.
The clutch does not slip, quite the opposite. On a cold engine, I put the 1st gear perfectly - almost without noticeable. On the hot you can hear and feel like the clutch is pressed halfway - a loud shot and a strong jerk. However, once it is turned on, it does not pull on and neutral with ease.

As for the fitting of elements. It doesn't compare with any other motorcycle. I just don't like the lack of symmetry - I won't get used to it because I folded everything. It was time consuming but relatively easy. This topic is already solved by me. I only added it to the rest of the problems that occur and should not.

Yes, I'm going to change the fan power supply. If they are only controlled by a sensor. If the ECU also works, he will give up. When the engine is off, the fan also cools, of course not as much as when it is working. Note that (in those vehicles whose fan has power all the time) sometimes the fan only turns on moments after the engine is turned off. This is because the hot engine is not cooled, as a result of which the fluid temperature rises and the fan turns on. Cooling the radiator also blows on the engine and slowly cools it down. This affects the service life of the engine a little.
Returning to the topic of heating.
The wrapper is used in cars to lower the temperature under the engine flap. Apparently you can touch the wrapped exhaust manifold with your hand while the engine is running.
I will apply it for the first time, so I don't know if the idea is good. But I know for sure that the radiator heats up because of exhaust - I checked. I know a little about engines because of my profession.
The mileage is so small because every day I am a transport entrepreneur and also a truck driver - no time to play. In the truck, nothing must be left to chance, because it will leave you far from home. I guess that's why these mistakes are so annoying to me.
How do I check if the tape helped, of course I will write

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For Europe there is no ROTTELA instead of ADVANCE and for RIMULLA trucks - it is actually very good. I've got one in my truck. For MOTUL 7100 10W40 motorcycle. I will go to the exchange and go SCHELL.

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On a cold engine, I put the 1st gear perfectly - almost without noticeable. On the hot you can hear and feel like the clutch is pressed halfway - a loud shot and a strong jerk.

The loud CLUNK and the bike jerking forward a bit is normal shifting from N to 1st gear. Roll the bike forward as you shift into 1st and that will soften the clunk (I wonder how you say CLUNK in Polish). Some lower the idle speed a bit but I don't think the Gen 2 has a manual idle adjuster nob on it like the Gen1 does.

If the shifting is very rough 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3 to 4th and so on, that is not normal. I would suspect there is a clutch problem if the bike shifts very loud and rough while you are moving. Click, is normal BANG is something wrong. (how do you say BANG in Polish?)

Yes, I'm going to change the fan power supply. If they are only controlled by a sensor. If the ECU also works, he will give up.

The ECU must react to the sensor. The temperature where the fans come on is something that engine tuners edit in the stock settings of the ECU.

I will apply it for the first time, so I don't know if the idea is good.

I have heard of people doing it with the Gen1. I do not think it made a huge difference or else we would have heard of very many people doing that mod. I recall it being said that the wrap was messy to remove.

For Europe there is no ROTTELA instead of ADVANCE and for RIMULLA trucks - it is actually very good. I've got one in my truck. For MOTUL 7100 10W40 motorcycle. I will go to the exchange and go SCHELL.

Rottella works fine for 2500 miles. With the higher rpm and wet clutch requirements of motorcycles, Rotella may break down faster in motorcycles than diesel engine trucks. At 2500 miles the shifting is rougher and the cam chain may rattle for a few seconds at startup. If your European version of Rotella is approved for wet clutches like Rotella is, you might give that a try in the bike. Rotella is synthetic but it is also inexpensive. That's why I have used it. It is not costly if I change every 2500 like I would with conventional oil.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/1/2020 @ 1:40 PM *

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CLUNK - TRZASK
BANG - BACH
soundtrack words if that's what you meant.

May the force be with you!

"Let the force be with us" - this was not to be a quote. In Polish "force" and "power" it's the same word. Means power - my mistake, it was supposed to be a pun. English doesn't match. I already delete
"SHELL ADVANCE 4T" is only intended for bikes. Interestingly, in the service book and also all oil producers give a replacement every 7.500mil / 12000km. Even the authorized service was surprised - and they found out from me. This model is not popular in my country. That's why he writes with you.
I change the oil every 3600mil / 6000km, because we have such a smart saying: "oil is not worth saving" - it's also a game, words I don't know how you will understand
And again I wrote a lot.
There is no manual engine speed control
My previous motorcycles had no such problems, either with the clutch or with the temperature.
I know this wrapper can be ugly. But that is not the point. if it is effective and solves my problems (because I think everything is the result of too high temperature), then the direction is right.
The sensor will be easily checked. I think that the fans turn off with the engine to protect the battery. Two fans consume a lot of electricity.

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CLUNK - TRZASK
BANG - BACH
soundtrack words if that's what you meant.

LOL Thank you!! Sound words!! "Onomatopoeia" is the word we use in English for the words that sound like what they are. That looks like a greek word for sure.

Why would a sound word not be the same in all languages? A bach sounds the same whether I'm in Poland or the US. Now "trzask"......that doesn't sound anything like a "clunk!" But who am I to argue?? Maybe if I heard a native Polish speaker say it it would make more sense too me. All I know is if my 14 starts going, "trzask" when I shift into 1st from Neutral, that will be a very interesting surprise. The Kawasaki trzask!!!!! LOL I wonder how they say it in Japan?

In Polish "force" and "power" it's the same word. Means power - my mistake, it was supposed to be a pun. English doesn't match. I already delete

No one will complain about quoting Yoda whether you intended to do that or not. Now I must hear Yoda speak in Polish!!

"oil is not worth saving"

I agree. That's why I use an oil that is economical to change as often as 2500 miles. I know some keep certain synthetics in for a lot longer while retaining great performance but IMO, you can't beat clean oil whether it's synthetic or conventional. The oil gets contaminated with gasoline more and more the longer it stays in the bike. I think I can smell the gasoline in it when I change oil.

I know this wrapper can be ugly. But that is not the point. if it is effective and solves my problems (because I think everything is the result of too high temperature), then the direction is right.

Yes. I hope that is effective.

I think that the fans turn off with the engine to protect the battery. Two fans consume a lot of electricity.

Yes. For sure. I think the fans would run a heck of a long time before the engine temp came down unless the sensor was on the radiator. It is not on the rad on my Gen1. On the motor I think. Perhaps on the front near the exhaust manifold. There is some sensor there and I think it is the water temp sensor.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/1/2020 @ 6:58 PM *

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I am weak in humanities - I was guided by what was going on during gear changes.
But in translation CLUNK - BRZEK, BANG - HUK

No one will complain about quoting Yoda whether you intended to do that or not. Now I must hear Yoda speak in Polish!!

"NIECH MOC BEDZIE Z TOBA!" throw it into uncle google, somewhere for sure it will play voice. And I see that you can't use Polish characters on this communicator. So I don't know if anything will work

Poles say that dogs are barking: HAU HAU, Italians BAU BAU, Germans WUFF WUFF Americans WOOF WOOF.
I wonder what dogs think about it
In Polish schools they teach that one should speak in full sentences. And the shorter the better in English.
That is why there is a lot of Onomatopoeia in English and not much in Polish.

Tomorrow I am coming back from the route, maybe I can work with a motorcycle on Saturday

* Last updated by: ginccs on 3/5/2020 @ 7:48 AM *

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But in translation CLUNK - BRZEK, BANG - HUK

That sounds much more like my 14 going into 1st from Neutral!!

Yes, Google worked. "May the force be with you."

"Stay. Have some soup, you must." The app would not translate that one but I tried!

Poles say that dogs are barking: HAU HAU, Italians BAU BAU, Germans WUFF WUFF Americans WOOF WOOF.
I wonder what dogs think about it

In Polish schools they teach that one should speak in full sentences. And the shorter the better in English.
That is why there is a lot of Onomatopoeia in English and not much in Polish.

Interesting. Now if we could just get kids to speak instead of mumble, I'd be happy.

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Google - Didn't they create it to connect man with information?
And now advertising and commercialism - what this money is doing with people and companies
https://pl.bab.la/slownik/angielski-polski/may-the-force-be-with-you
In the second frame click on the speaker.

So on the subject.
Wrap works !!!
I tested in the garage because it is still cold outside.
To declare complete success I have to wait until it is hot outside, but there is already a difference.
Without fairings it is perfect - the fans will turn on for a few seconds. With the fairing, when the fans are turned on, the temperature drops to 195.8F, and after a gentle movement of the throttle grip to 194F, and the fans stop.
The clutch also works better so far - 1 gear enters with a proper jerk.
The sound of a working motorcycle is also much nicer - cleaner. You can hear the muffler's voice itself without the collector buzzing. BEAUTIFUL BAS!!!
Aesthetics... Well, I preferred the golden tube to the golden rag. When it is clean it is not very ugly, especially since the exhaust is not very visible. I will upload pics when I do .
Interesting fact - You can actually touch the wrapped hot collector with bare hand (without damaging your health), even at the engine head itself
The wrapped exhaust around the oil filter seems cooler than the filter.
I no longer wanted to check the fan power supply - this work with the wrap finished me 7 hours. I'll do it in a week.
I didn't want to check the fan power supply. While working with the wrapper, a few factory errors of the motorcycle came out - I had to improve. It all took me 7 hours. I'll do it in a week.

* Last updated by: ginccs on 3/9/2020 @ 4:56 PM *

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Wow. Even in cold weather the head pipes would get hot. I guess that wrap stuff works!

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