GPS has 2 wires that throws either the N or 6.
My guess is the wire would set the N solid, therefore no wire at the connector is the problem?
My guess is the T-pin that inserts into the end of drum and turns with the drum is this pin is thrown, but is in between throws? Sometimes you see the 6 and sometimes you see the N?
1. Connector not connected: Not it. Why? You see it shift on up and down so it has to be connected.
2. Wire out of connector: Not it. Why? It still sends 1-N-2-3-4-5-6/N so no wire out of connector.
3. Short to ground, no ground, etc.: Bingo! This is it? That pin throw is being thrown thru the gears, but once at top gear, this moves in and out as if the pin throw was pushed with more momentum on the shift. So the guess is, sometimes a shift is not as fast without the momentum to send the pin farther. You'd think, as if the pin is landing in a pocket and not a flat push, but the pin is more sunk in a groove and the throw was lost due to the pocket keeping the pin from moving into that 6 number; the 555 ping is checking all the time and it's stuck at a midpoint. Now, the ping does not make it to the 6 as the signal. The pin sits in the middle of 6 and 5. There is a lost resistance and that being in the middle sitting position between 5-6, thus a code sent in N [and that is that wire]. Now, is this pin fine and no pocket so the throw outside is fine? Internally, the pin is moving, but something slipped off internally?
So when Rook mentioned to ohm check the gps wires, we can see the resistance climb/swing as the gears change, and that is the wire we want. With the right hand at the back wheel and that wheel is off the ground, spin that wheel in any direction you can really get a spin on. Then, at the same time [almost], you pull the shift lever up with your left hand and if timed well, timed right, you moved the safety shift out of the centrifugal lock. Spin the back wheel fore and aft as you shift up with the lever.
Obviously, you'll check the connection integrity of 1 and 2's troubleshoot so those are cleared as variables. Then, you use the ohm meter to show how the bike shifts using the ohm's resistance scale and watch that display as well. If it hangs up at the meter, goes blank without a signal, you shifted with more speed to check again? Then, it's the physical switch, not the wiring being loose, not connected, etc.
Recap:
1. Key on with battery charger on and front headlight fuse pulled.
2. Bike is out of the safety lock and is in 6th gear.
3. The scenario goes; I shift into 6th and here is N. I now wiggle the green connector and if it flickers, it's the male/female not connect, or if say, no wires can gently be pulled out of either side of the connector. We checked the wires and connectors meaning.
4. I found no joy as the wire yanking made no difference pulling or reconnecting.
5. I disconnect the green connection for a second time. I use the g/r wire, shift and if no joy showing a change of resistance, I move to the other wire:
a. wire grn/red tracer = 6 lock
b. wire light green = Goes to dash to display shift number or letter code.
c. wire black = this may be the oil pressure switch wire?
d. wire 4 in the block may have a black wire on one side and a black/yell or a blk/white tracer on the other side of the green connector. This is ground. See my 4 wires in that green connector?
6. I have those 2 wires that narrows down to one. One spits out a code in N, the other wire spits a code in 6. So find the N wire, and that is the one the ohm meter will show a change in resistances.
7. When I shift to 6th, I have joy or it hangs up and no ohm display = It's the gps switch.
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time
