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Thread: Chains

Created on: 09/23/13 11:16 AM

Replies: 7

Grn14


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Location: Montana

Joined: 02/25/09

Posts: 15511

Chains
09/23/13 11:16 AM

I was curious here...you guys know how everyone(mostly)says to replace the sprockets and chain as one.Okay...say a guy wears out rear sprockets before the chain and all become 'in need of replacement'.Not breaking teeth type of wear...just 'normal' wear...and not down to where the teeth are pointed and dished.Say the chain is in fine condition.Not even close to needing replacement.My question here...not that I'm gonna do this...but...say instead of buying a new chain...what about breaking the chain at the master....flipping the chain over,and turning it around so it's now grabbing on the 'other side' of the links...and reinstalling a new master endless link?Does anyone think this could possibly extend the life of the chain?In an appreciable way?I can't really see how buying a brand new chain because you've worn your 'rear' sprocket(let's say)would be a wise move?I've only replaced the whole shebang at one time once...on my 07.

I'm on my second rear sprocket...doing fine...and the chain is virtually perfect as much as it can be....Just seems like overkill to me to replace all three at one time.Hell...If I did that...I'd be buying the sets at 6,7K intervals....BTW..there's nothing wrong with my alignment or play...I keep her in spec..and clean and lubed religiously.Thanks all for your inputs;)

As a side note...I do not run my sprockets down to anything resembling hooked or 'pointed' teeth.In all reality...they probably could go several K's more....I've never really been one to just run the shit outta my sprockets till they 'fail'.


* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/23/2013 @ 11:19 AM *

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Danno


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Southwestern Illinois

Joined: 12/18/11

Posts: 2142

RE: Chains
09/23/13 6:07 PM

Since the rollers rotate, there's no one-sided wear pattern to be concerned with. As long as the o-rings keep the lube sealed inside, there's virtually no wear at the pin-to-roller i.d. interface. Once the O-rings shoot crap and the lube starts getting squeezed out, the chain's days are numbered.

If you are one of those who likes aluminum sprockets, you are blowing a shit-ton of $ replacing the chain every time a sprocket goes to hell. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.



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hagrid


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Location: pittsburgh

Joined: 02/16/12

Posts: 2212

RE: Chains
09/23/13 6:17 PM

My observation is the o-ring seals the pin to bushing inside diameter interface. The roller to bushing outside diameter interface is unsealed and must have lubricant added externally.

o-ring chain cross section


* Last updated by: hagrid on 9/23/2013 @ 6:25 PM *



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mebgardner


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Location: Tucson, AZ

Joined: 05/08/12

Posts: 738

RE: Chains
10/03/13 5:39 PM

Danno:

Once the O-rings shoot crap and the lube starts getting squeezed out, the chain's days are numbered.

What does this look like? How can I tell looking at the chain rollers?


Grn:

I think I read that Danno is saying, "nope, dont bother with the "turning the chain over" idea". I think that's what he saying... I agree with him.

I also know you do your own maintenance, so the cost (for you) to replace just the sprocket is low. So, if that's all you need, then just do that much. So, I agree with him on that, too.

For me, if I were to do the rear sprocket, then the chain, then the front sprocket, I triple my install costs 'cause I have a shop do it :)

For that reason alone, I'd do all those parts at one shot and not be too concerned about the "oh, it's not worn out yet" idea...



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Hub


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Joined: 02/05/09

Posts: 13785

RE: Chains
10/03/13 6:52 PM

A. Pin 3 is fixed [pressed] into link 1.
B. Inner link 2 has a pressed [4] roller into it. This internal sheer, slides over half the side of pin 3.
C. The pins rubbing on the fixed roller 4, cause the whole [outer] link to extend in proportion.
D. This is why you count 20 or so links to make at least a foot [as in pounds per square inch think]. You then want to make sure your half worn-down pin 3's >do not exceed the stretch<. The term 'weakest link' is all about how that O/D's pin is sheered off against the fixed roller 4's I/D: then stress sets in. Then a crack as in stress crack. Then the chain wads in the engine case.

Flipping the chain rests on the smooth side you did not wear off. However, you are going to thin pin 3 on the other side? See that wear action on the pin flying over the c/s sprocket at its deepest pitch, or carving off of half the pin? Now you want to flip it? Might as well flip the sprockets too.

Are we on the same page?


* Last updated by: Hub on 10/3/2013 @ 6:53 PM *



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Grn14


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Location: Montana

Joined: 02/25/09

Posts: 15511

RE: Chains
10/03/13 7:00 PM

Thanks All...I wasn't going to flip the chain over...I just thought I'd toss that out there and get some input about it.I did replace both sprockets today.I sure as hell aint buyin a new chain....this one's got 9K on it....looks perfect and the links are feeling as good as when new...X-rings fine.It has no 'pull' out of spec at the rear sprocket...No bending side to side except what's already in the chain to begin with.


* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/3/2013 @ 7:02 PM *

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Hub


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Joined: 02/05/09

Posts: 13785

RE: Chains
10/03/13 7:17 PM

1. Find tape measure.
2. Stand on bottom rung of chain.
3. Measure top rung. Is the chain past 319mm (12.6 in.)? = Replace.
4. Booknows all



Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time

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Grn14


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Location: Montana

Joined: 02/25/09

Posts: 15511

RE: Chains
10/03/13 7:40 PM

They did away with the sprocket measurement deal?This is news to me;)Thanks Hub.


* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/3/2013 @ 7:46 PM *

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