Hi all I have a 2012 does anyone know if you can adjust the idle speed. It just seems to be idling @ 1200 and clunks into gear which i find annoying . Can anyone help.

Cheers

No idle speed adjustment for the pilot...mine idles at around 1100...somewhere in there.

By the book: hot idle for 2012 is 1100 +/- 100 rpm... non adjustable.

That's strange. My '07 has an idle adjuster on the left side over the top of the clutch slave cylinder/sprocket cover. In the book, it's attached via plastic clip to some small hoses, but I made a bracket for mine to point the knob straight out since the clip was missing. Turn the small alloy knob one way or the other to adjust the idle speed up or down. Wonder why KHI eliminated the adjuster on the 2012?

* Last updated by: Danno on 2/17/2013 @ 2:41 AM *

They started using an idle circuit bypass valve... the ECU now has dynamic control over idle speed.

Its kinda nifty. If you're idling and load the engine slightly the ECU will compensate. Makes picking thru parking lots and slow traffic fun.

Mine is also idling about 1100, and I don't think the neutral to first gear clunk is any worse than my 08 was. I have only owned 3 Kawasaki's, but they have all had a pretty heavy N-1st clunk at idle compared to my Busa and Blackbirds.

Between the new idle circuit and slipper clutch, the new 14R is very smooth. Lots of lever feel combined with the idle circuit makes pulling away from a stoplight easy. This is the first bike I have ridden with a slipper clutch, and don't think they could get any better.

Soon, fly by wire. No throttle cables (weight/maintenance is gone)! Add ABS. Less buzz to the engine is it? Add the K-slid refinements, dash data, mode switching. And if you think about it, a higher idle has more water/oil/crank flow for longevity.

Nifty Not! I'm going to chunk into a corner with 1,200rpm still pushing the front end, or do I try for 900rpm like you could with the low tech gen ('06 thru '11) and their idle cable. That's the new challenge with this next gen. My aprilia has the same air/idle setup. Guess what? You get the balance wrong, the idle runs up and down, because the computer is taking in a different vac than the other. So the timing or the balance is off on the suck of the data: off the IAP.

And it looks like the R has 2 of those intake air pressure sensors on the throttle body? Is the idle this complicated?
Game Changer, no? ABS/K-Skid/No Idle cable? It's going to be interesting.

Mine has a clunk as well...but nothing as violent as the previous gens.No where near those.

I guess we will have to trade our slender flat-blade screwdrivers for ones and zeros.

Ivan?

"Between the new idle circuit and slipper clutch... Lots of lever feel... "

Why, I should have looked in the '12 manual or read a brochure. You must own a 12 or later R, RC? I still keep pounding the mantra about having the clutch pack at max stack. Now, it's even more important. The sooner you load the rear wheel, the sooner the clutch breaks away going up the ramp.

That says: You lose stack, the cam has to move out farther to push the pressure plate off the first friction. That cam's ramp is not that long a throw in other words. So at max stack, you have the pressure plate as close to the cam's short ramp up and out, she breaks the pressure plate lose without wheel hop. Lose clutch material, you gain wheel hop. Get it?

As far as clunk, again, you need as much stack as possible. This will push the plate as far out as possible. You now let the engine idle for a few seconds, no revving, clutch lever in all this time. You want the one connected side to stop moving. If the plates touch, they keep that one shaft moving with the clunky gear about to make the noise. So the trick is to wait some before you stab the shift pedal. Sometimes it works, sometimes you need to find it's idiosyncrasy.

If you rather have a bulletproof way of never hearing the clunk? Start the bike in gear every time. You now have 3-choices = Live with it/lever it/start it in gear.