Has anyone experienced the problem I am having wih my PCV bought it new jan of this year. I instaelled it when it arrived did all the usual setting up etc. I had another issue and removed the pcv.
I reconnected the unit onto the bike. and now it wont even run.
Earth is back to the battery. connections seem good and none of the pins are pushed back on either sides of the connectors.
now when I switch on the ignition the power and status lights flash alternately until the ignition cycle is complete, after about four seconds.
With ignition off no lights illuminate.
When I connect the computer both the power and status lights flash permanently, the Device connected box on the lower left is highlighted.
No other evidence of the PCV being connected shows and I have ticked the box to retrieve map on connection.
There is no map in the main centre box and no map in the left box also nothing other than throttle or rpm in the right hand box. The top menue bar also shows no evidence of connection.
I have tried an alternative laptop and lead and reinstalled the PCV software and firmware to the latest versions as was the case before.

Any ideas?.............is there a problem with the PCV or the bike???
I have also conntacted Power commander but as yet have had no answer,

Did this start after you upgraded the firmware on the PCV? Does the dynjojet website or your PCV instructions say anything about why the power and status lights would be flashing alternately? It almost sounds like those lights flashing is a malfunction warning. I highly doubt your bike has any probs....does the bike run without the PCV? You might just have a PCV that died....it happens unfortunately. They can be finicky from what I've read, especially if you flash the firmware. I have a PCIII and I leave it alone, I don't trust messing with it too much.
Do an internet search on you're PCV's flashing lights, see what you can find......that might steer you in the right direction.
Sorry about the issues Andy.....it sucks to be trying to tune a turbo bike AND have equipment problems

Well I was on the net last night with the customer support and the pcv linked up. It seems after about an hour of trying it will not accept the firmware upgrade so it has to be sent back. Pretty sure I havent done anything to corrupt it like disconnecting before you should tried another computer and a different lead reinstalled software and firmware.......that will another 2 weeks or so that I cant use the bike.
The guy was very helpful and patient in trying to get it sorted.....

Hi guys, Well I am still waiting for pcv to return from Las Vegas. It should be here within a day or two. What a drag, its taken ages for it to return, anyway the weather has been sh... so not too concerned.
I have a few questions I suppose mainly for Romans but please chime in, I did have a look at a map I think it may have been Micheal Ww. who runs a VF34. botton end looks similar to mine but anyway the expert seems to be Romans on this one..
(no offence to all others)
So Romans, regarding the PCV setup ,
Do you run map toggle switch and if so which channel do you use?
Do you also run autotune and which channel, do you use same channel and have only one activated?
Do you run map from throttle % or boost pressure?
Do you run cylinder and gear advanced?
I presume you calibrated the speed and gear facility....?
Where did you end up with base fuel pressure ?
Was this initially set on a zero map to determine where the overlap was?
Did the fuel pressure overcome the lean area when going from vacuum to boost?
Think you ended up with fuel on the boost line all the way in except for about a dime is that still correct?
What did you do about timming retard?
What did you do regarding the accel pump, and what figures did you end up with?

I would like to confirm some of the options I have, sorry if some of it sound a bit basic but as I say it would be good to confirm some points. And to know what you have found from your experience....:)

Many many thanks
Grin

So Romans, regarding the PCV setup ,
Do you run map toggle switch and if so which channel do you use?

No, I see no need. Dual purpose built map is all that is needed. If I was going to Run C-16 and more boost this switch would be help full.

Do you also run autotune and which channel, do you use same channel and have only one activated?

have only one activated

Do you run map from throttle % or boost pressure?

I run a pressure Axis Table if that's what you mean. Boost pressure is used to control the rate of fuel pressure rise.

Do you run cylinder and gear advanced?

No.

I presume you calibrated the speed and gear facility....?

No

Where did you end up with base fuel pressure ?

Currently at 35 psi. IMO the power commander is flawed. The Area between the #'s is way to large. 20% 40% 60% 80% 100%

What happens between 20 and 40 and 60 and 80 is the stock ECU settings take over and crush the smooth I'm constantly chasing. Only way I have found to tune the bottom is to remove pressure and give power commander a chance to fix it. If your bike has a stutter off boost it's because in one fuel cell row you are stock and the next is -35 then back to stock over and over. Make sense ? That is why I do not use the map you are referring to. Impossible to run smooth when all the different fuel cells at war. This is just my way(fussy)as I am now on map 256 lol.

Was this initially set on a zero map to determine where the overlap was?
Did the fuel pressure overcome the lean area when going from vacuum to boost?

First, Run the map you were given. Go on a highway, observe your fuel pressure. Move your bike up in speed to the point you see 1 lb of boost. Now you must keep closing the blow off from fuel pressure reg until you see pressure above 42. When my first pound of pressure is observe my fuel pressure is 46 psi. This is key to the rest of the Tuning process. This is how You over come the lean area.

What did you do about timming retard?

Nothing, power loss if you do. AFR is the key.

What did you do regarding the accel pump, and what figures did you end up with?

Off

Grin your first ride will be your most important. Watch AFR closely.

Thanks Romans I have already read over and over again, will keep all you have said in mind.
Pcv should be back here in the next couple of days.........
Cant wait!
Grin

I have already read over and over again, will keep all you have said in mind.
Pcv should be back here in the next couple of days.........

One last thing Grin, Do NOT Run Auto Tune With Default AFR Table, If you do

Thanks, I seem to remember that most of the lower part of the table was 13.2 afr.....I have your figures kept somewhere, filed as for future reference.....Ill dig them out, what are you currently runnung?

Just had a look at my notes, you previously mentioned you were running,

OFF Boost = 13.7 My Bike runs best at 13.7 - 13.8 based strictly on Exhaust note. She speaks to me lol.
Once Bike Starts in boost AFR goes to 12.3 and adding fuel to 11.8 at Full Boost
My Mid range #'s 6700 RPM to 9600RPM @ 11.5

have you found any better setup or are you still around these figures...........the post has just arrived and so has the PCV, replaced the unit!

Yipee..........
Grin

have you found any better setup or are you still around these figures...........the post has just arrived and so has the PCV, replaced the unit!

No #'s still same but I am going crazy trying to map out that Fucking Backfire through my Turbo. I removed the TRE 006A when I installed the MSD SB6(had to). I was on there help line to see if I could solder a resistor in line that went to gear display. As it is now I'm locked in 6 th gear. I hate it. TRE 006A going back in I think?????? Hard to map bottom with Boom in play.

Oh my g.... its so hard to resist.....
Im getting around 50psi at 2psi.....do you reckon its ok at that?.....and it climbs nice and progressively.
Boost seems to hang a bit ..I think it may be the guage, closed throttle does not make it dissapear even after a few seconds.
Grin......with Boost!

Im getting around 50psi at 2psi.....do you reckon its ok at that?.....and it climbs nice and progressively.

Yep sounds good. Please study. I make sure fuel pressure begins to rise before I see one pound. you know, 1/4lb should show a rise in fuel pressure all though boost gauge is blind still ,,, Be fussy.

18/41,

Mapping with this gearing will be much easier. rickromans@sympatico.ca is my E-Mail. Send your first run and I will study in a effort to keep you safe. Get ready,,,,Game On

Oh my g.... its so hard to resist.....

Yep, order new back tire now, you will need it lol

I gave the bike a little more load and rpm today got ssome waste gate chatter LOL, AFR stayed good where it was supposed to, so far so good.....
need to alter position of my autotune switch and afr guage..progress at last!

I gave the bike a little more load and rpm today got ssome waste gate chatter LOL

Hook setting deeeeep now. No going back,lol

I have tried another map with the following characteristics, Fuel pressure set at 42psi rate of increase screw set at 1 and 1/4 turns from fully in. It seems to have minus figures from 5250 at 5% through to about 4000 at 100% then above that it goes into plus figures, does that seem to correspond with the style of map you are running,I had wondered about lowering the fuel pressure down to bring the trend line lower in the rpm range.
Do you reckon its necessary,
Did you also have a reason for putting 100 in the 0% column

Also having the backfire on overun ......is that too much fuel in., and burning in the exhaust

Grin, don't hit Rev limiter if you can avoid, ECU pulls fuel in over rev, equals lean condition and Two new pistons if you do it enough. Yikes. Just a FYI ?????

Did you also have a reason for putting 100 in the 0% column

Sounds like your running one of my maps, the #'s in the zero column are to put fuel back in where kawi has removed it. This was in effort to reduce the backfire. It does not work 100% but helps. ECU shuts all fuel off even with 100% in zero column fuel cells does not bring it back on decell grrrrr. Fuel starts coming back in around 6000 untill you reach 3800 and full fuel return and boom.

I have tried every trick you can think off to get that backfire out of the Turbo, but have failed. TRE006A is the only way. I'm going to re install. Have no choice as a street bike. Clutch wire Ground also turns fuel back on, So, pull in clutch on de cell and no backfire but If you forget boom. Sucks around town. Hope this helps Cheers.

Hmmm cheers for the warning, ....will work on tis decel pop, its not so bad i think with a quiet silencer I am still runing the open mega, must get something fabricated to keep the "old bill" away.......:)

Hm just seen your post re- gearing, Id not been doing it to gearing after what you said, Ill change it over and go again on it.....
Grin

Hm just seen your post re- gearing, Id not been doing it to gearing after what you said, Ill change it over and go again on it.....
Grin

The slower the RPM climbs the better sniff the o2 sensor gets. I run 17/45 so Map is made in 6th gear.

Boost comes in Early with more load on the motor. Your 18/41 would give you lots of load. Easy to map with.

Romans, just looking at my latest map number10.....seems there are lots of peaks and troughs if you look down and along the columns and rows, doesnt seem logical for it to be that way.
Itsnot worth posting yet as its very early. However the afr is ok,there is just one area around 3 to 3500 which goes towards 14.5 but only briefly. Its at about 50% throttle.
Do you have any particular sequence of events that you go through to get good consistant figures?
Cheers teacher,

Follow the below and report back. I could type all day on this one subject as I do not know what you or others know. Using Auto Tune is a Art. Takes Time, Not plug and play as you will learn. All your questions help me understand so keep asking.

Hey guys, brought this over from the turbo thread as it Relates. May Help some of you decide. Cheers

said not to use auto-tune on a turbo bike...its a big no-no? I just assumed trying to use an auto-tune to tune something as fast changing as afr's on a turbo bike would be trouble, so I never even considered it.

Here is my thoughts on this, people believe Auto Tune is plug and play and it most certainly is not. That's where the trouble comes in. From all accounts if jlewis can get my AFR table to Repair his map then the map becomes his own made by him, at his sea level, for his set up, on his bike. What could be better ?

Ok, next the 02 sensor,,,, is it different than the ones on the Dyno ? Software from the Dyno's computer, is it different ?

So, now comes down to the tuner or user with little or no experience with his new toys. Danger zone. From what I can see 4 sure is the RPM climbs to fast for the Bosch sensor to see the readings it's looking for. This becomes clear in the recommended trim values. It's Blind. ZERO is Blind.

On the Dyno, the operator goes to 4th gear and holds it to wide open throttle. This slows down the RPM climbing rate & allows the 02 sensor to get good readings as he performs multiple runs to confirm the different throttle positions.

OK, in comes Auto -Tune, what we do on the street is gas on gas off at all TPS positions. Then go in and except Trims,,,,Now your Map is Junk. Look yourself at the green TPS highlighted block in the software as it moves across the board,,,, Mapping like this will give bad results.

If you go to wide open throttle then to 80% 60 % 40 % to all TPS positions in a taller gear this will slow down your RPM climb rate and you can open the Eyes of the sensor.

But, if you touch the throttle just once on the RPM wind down the readings you have just made will be changed and all you have just made is lost. Make sense ? I have hundreds of tests to prove.

So who goes from wide open to zero ????? No One, so the maps made are crap. IMO, I would take a Dyno proven map any day. But if you use Auto Tune exactly as a Dyno Operator does, Results are Nice. Proof = My AFR Gauge matches my Auto Tune trim #'s. I have found a way to make it work, this means anyone can,,,, baby steps think and study.

This is how I'm doing it. Please add to thread if anyone has more to offer. I'm only trying to help, no flaming please lol.

Romans thanks for the explanation on the auto-tune...makes perfect sense

* Last updated by: Romans on 6/23/2012 @ 4:04 PM *