My 14R has about 50 miles on it; just a trip home from the dealer and back (see my leaking bike thread).

I know break-in is a heated topic with many opinions, but hear me out.

First of all, the dealer mechanic that assembled my bike, when asked about the break-in rev limit of 4000 RPM, he told me not to do that. "The bike will just carbon up", he said.

He then told me to vary the RPMs, use all the gears, and don't be afraid to run it up to 8-9K RPM now & again.

Anyway, I'm anxious to ride, and one of the reasons I got back on a sportbike is because of my new job. I only commute about 3 days a week, but it is 90 miles round trip. About 90% of it is highway riding. The speed limit is 75 MPH.

Should I finish up break-in before I start commuting on my 14R?

Kind of hard to vary the gears and RPMs much on a 75mph hwy run.

Yeah, I better just suck it up and break it in.

"He then told me to vary the RPMs, use all the gears, and don't be afraid to run it up to 8-9K RPM now & again"...you can do this on your 90 mile commute...why not?1000 miles is just a 'commute'....every time you ride...you're just commuting.Your not driving like you're at a track?Right?You can easily get the gear shifting and rpm ranges you want by simply driving...

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/7/2013 @ 9:19 AM *

As far as carbon buildup, you have this fuel staring out as a solid/liquid/gas component: locked in suspension you cannot create or destroy those 3 in that environment. See how it returned to a solid is the carbon? What becomes cleaned is more the spark plug. That carbon is melting on the parts inside the cylinder chamber. You don't see granny redline the caddy every weekend running with the canyon riders, right? So that carbon crap is a myth unless you are so jetted rich, you wet the plug instead and it misfires on the top.

What you want is less heat buildup, less strain or excess expansion with tight, new parts. You have this embedding or peening process going on. The piston skirts smack on one side and smack on the opposite side as it moves from the up, then down position(s). There is the crank coming around and that pounds the rod inserts and crank inserts as they move from one stop stroke to the next stopped stroke is that up and down, side to side slapping and stroking down the highway.

You have this 4,000 rpm window. It's fun to quick shift up to 4k, then it's cruise to work under 4k. Is there a wolf pack behind? You lift, snick it down a few gears and wait for them to creep up. You go right back to hammering the throttle up to 4k and if it takes a few more rpm to leave the pack, it's not going to hurt the engine. So, you now eliminate the sustained, and can fluctuate to work is that rpm range. Change gears. Never let it buck in too high a gear, too low an rpm. This more hammers the crank up and down, not runs in a smooth around way is that elimination point.

As is, it won't hurt the hard break-in either. That is to say, it's all about WOT is hard and what is damaging down the road? Hard to say? You could take a survey, see who fills their ram chamber with oil and who does not? Who broke theirs in hard and can match the oily ram chamber and who broke it in book wise and has a dry chamber upon heavy WOT?

Besides the insert hammering, the next break in part is ring seal. There is air being pushed past the rings and that kind of pressure has to neutralize, so it heads out into the closed loop system = Ram Chamber. And we are talking proper oil level, not over filled where it is forced out.

Kind of hard to vary the gears and RPMs much on a 75mph hwy run.

I don't really think it matters a whole heap. Do what you think is best. The bike will be strong no matter what.

I favor a high rpm break in but my 14 was broke in very gentley. Busa broke in in 30 miles redlined over and over.

Google motoman break in

this recent thread covers it.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=25994236-1372-66AE-3BF7810FD6F8E0C8&show=0

Just keep the revs up, try not to cruise in 6th gear, vary your speeds, go up, then down etc .. as much as possible, and like hub said, dont be afraid to get on it after it warms up, I wouldnt redline it, but close, been doing it that way for over thirty years, and have never had a bike use oil or anything ring seat related, or transmission related ...

I drove north 2.5 hours and rode my bike back... I definitely moved the tach gauge ;) every where from 2500k to 10K... and the thing runs great today. Still pulls hard no issues.

My understanding is that Kawasaki, Yamaha, all of them (high end sportbikes) test every engine before they leave anyway... and if they do, let me tell you how there is no way that don't peg the party meter! They need to make sure the engine has the power its supposed to before they let it go out the door.

So, if they do this right after the engine is hand built, I don't think we are going to hurt them by riding them. However in full disclosure I am in the ride it like you stole it camp for the break in.

It has also been speculated that the biggest reason deals tell people this is to scare them into just riding and feeling out the machine for a little while before we get stupid on it.

Anyone know what Km marks the end of the breakin cycle?

1600km ends the break in (theory) All systems go. You may now proceed to 299.36km/h until the tank runs out of gas. Refill, check oil level, change the 100% cotton briefs... Back out WOTing you will go, a WOTing you will go, hi ho the dairy, ho hi office sir!

I plan on riding it to work tomorrow. I'll vary the speed/RPMs and not worry about it.

I also typically do the first oil change very early, at around 100 miles, to get the initial shavings out of there.

I don't think I'll have time to do that tonight, so it'll have to wait until the weekend. Probably have around 160 miles on it by then.

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

Hub's explanation of the 'peening process' is very good....that's what ya want....the factory makes sure they run fine...but that 'peening process' takes some time....Kawasaki Tech told me the rings seat during the 1000K break-in.Up and down....that's what ya want.Load the engine good several times...some nice decels...it'll be fine.

"to get the initial shavings out of there"....IDK if that's needed or not.I've done mine both ways...early change...and waiting till 500 or 600 miles.I couldn't honestly see any difference in oil quality waiting.I didn't have 'shavings' in mine at either time interval...only a lighter colored 'dust' mixed with the oil.(metal).Micron size...tiny.It may actually be beneficial...kinda like a polishing effect in there...IDK.They say 600 miles....there's a reason for that.The filter will definitely grab anything possibly damaging.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/9/2013 @ 7:20 AM *

I changed my oil at 100 miles, no metal shavings, BUT it was pretty dirty for only 100 miles, changed at 600, a little dirty for that amunt of miles, but still no metal, changed at 2250, dirty, but still no shavings ...

I've had my 14r for a month now and I put the first 540 miles on it the first day (almost 2000 now). I read the 'motoman' break in, and it's pretty much what I've been doing for years with all my bikes. Has always worked for me with no issues. I did MANY hard acceleration cycles (not to redline, but up to about 8k) in the first 20 miles. It's important to decel with a completely closed throttle using engine braking (ring seating).

I did my first oil change in a parking lot at 50 miles. I couldn't believe the crap that came out of the engine. No metal shavings, but aluminum casting flash and tiny little metal 'balls' from the casting process. Also sand or grit from the casting. This is what collected in the bottom of my drain pan, and what was inside the filter that I cut open. Did my second oil change at 550 miles and it was much better.

Regardless of how you break in your bike, I'd recommend your first oil change before 100 miles - get that crap out of your engine.