It seems from the manual that the two special tools required are the fork spring compressor and the piston rod puller. Are both of these necessary? I browsed some posts on the subject but for those of us that haven't done this before has anyone posted a detailed step by step to follow?

Hub should be along shortly....;)

The tool loophole is:
1. Break loose the top caps on each fork leg.
2. Remove forks from steering stems.
3. Turn the fork upside down, loosen the top cap, let the oil drain as it hangs.
4. That is the static oil leaving.
5. Right side up the fork, clean the tube, the leg is going to slide down the tube and bottom out.
6. Run a zip-tie around the bottom so nothing hits metal but plastic around the tube.
7. The cap is bolted to the long tube inside the fork leg. Begin pumping the cap/rod up and down to purge.
8. Turn fork over so the cap again is the drain-down side, you again milk the rod so it squirts dry and that static drains out.
9. All the while you have a measured beaker under the drips. You magic mark where you think the one fork's level is?
10. You drain the other fork the same way. If both have equal levels of oil drain, I think no tools were needed to keep tearing down the fork for what?
11. Then, you go right to the Kawi dealer, buy the one can of fork oil by said maker of the forks.
12. You now split the can in half is the equal level needed for each fork.
13. Low and behold you measure factory spec and pour. Where did it fall? At the magic marker line you dotted, and it lands right there again is one can measured out for you if you pulled all the static and pump prime out of it.
14. No special fork tools needed but torque specs going back together.

Excellent thanks Hub!

Anyone tell me what the socket size is for the top nut on the fork leg to remove the cap? Seems I'm missing it.

Found - 24mm.