Hey guys,
So I went to change my brake fluid last night and for some reason could not get the screw out of the master cylinder bracket~the piece that holds the cap in place. Is there some kind of trick to this? Are they known to strip or something? It looks like I could potentially cut it off if needed (not really sure though) as I don't really feel like it's needed, I can always check to confirm the cap is tight before taking flight. Any insight into this would be greatly appreciate before I go cutting on shit!

"Is there some kind of trick to this?"...you mean that little screw,right?That will come out...and the small metal cap locker will come off.I think the threads on the cap are plastic...so just don't overtighten it when you screw it back in.Snug is all.

You do mean the reservoir cap locker tab and screw,yes?

I wouldn't remove that safety piece if it were me.Paint it black or something....

Leaving it on assures the cap will NOT loosen up...check off one less thing to concern yourself about;)

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/16/2014 @ 8:26 AM *

The screw that holds the locker tab in place won't come off so I am unable to remove the cap itself.

I just wanted to pull it to change fluid. I can't get the screw to come out to remove the tab and subsequently remove the cap so I can get fresh fluid goin on. I did get the rear brake and clutch fluid done last night so it wasn't a total waste...

With your tool kit, the phillips tip is japanese standard not US #2 tip. Take a vice grip and try to pop or snap the screw, not let the nut follow and tear up the plastic square it sits in. Oh, you did tear it out. With a dremel or a hacksaw file all by itself:

1. Dremel the phillips head off so the band can be removed.
2. Hack from the bottom and saw the block off so the whole plastic boss is removed.
3. Take white nail polish, dab a white mark on the side of the cap, then white mark the res so both line up. Make the marks face you when you ride so you are watching those dots move away from each other, you run old style.

Hub,
Much appreciated sir. I was actually going to do exactly what you said but was unsure of potential issues. This is by FAR the best forum I have ever been a member of, you guys are awesome!

Not sure how you guys take care of answered threads here, but MODS feel free to close or delete this if that is standard procedure.

Is it loose enough to move that tab aside?That's all ya need really...for it to clear the cap.It makes sense what Hub says here...that inside nut might just have worn that plastic stay that holds it in place.Sounds like the nut is turning as well.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/16/2014 @ 10:32 AM *

It goes like this... YOur problem turns generic and now this more solves a generic issue. Let it ride. You solved your dilemma. My guess is you tore the head slots with a #2 phillips, not the kit phillips tip. That's my assumption so correct me as to how you got to that point.

So with the snap of the screw head, not twist the plastic nut and render the res inop for the safety band, I'll assume you got into trouble that way. So the right tip, right move, why delete a reservoir thread?

Sheesh...just went and looked at mine.WTF?They didn't allow for a guy to get in behind that screw/nut in there....he's fooked!...where IS that nut?Inside the res?I didn't look.Kind of scared to nowLOL!!!And just HOW does one get from A to B here....geez..musta had a gorilla securing that teensy phillips on a Monday or somethin;)I say again...WTF?????

If it wasn't so...'important' getting that cap off...it'd be almost funnyLOL!!!Been there,done that...just as you said Hub...wrong driver.

I didn't used to think those Japanese sae tools were really THAT important.Till I ended up having to buy a set of those phillips...magic!If a guy doesn't have a set...highly recommend!

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/16/2014 @ 10:48 AM *

Grn,
It is indeed a dumb design, I assume it is made that way for cost reasons... That said, no big deal, I'll just chop the whole block off and problem solved. I ran my 10R's without that bracket in place and never had the cap come loose, I just checked it every few rides to make sure it was still secure. I will have to look into getting a set of the screwdrivers you mentioned however, thanks for the tip!

Yup...I seriously doubt it's gonna come unscrewed(the cap) while riding.I don't see any problem doing it your way;)That IS crazy though...that screw being so damn difficult!...sheesh.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/16/2014 @ 12:03 PM *

Pics on step 24, 30, 39 and other pics in this tutorial.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=EF69194F-1372-66AE-3B981C05AA26103E

If the Gen2 res is the same, the nut is inserted through a small slot in the plastic. No way to grab with a wrench but the plastic holds it by the flats just the same. You could squeeze down with a pliers on the outside of the plastic if you think the nut might spin. I think you just have a very tight screw (and not in a good way, unfortunately). If you really think you might strip the X on the screw, Id try heating the screwdriver cherry red with a torch and set it in the X for one minute. Then try turning it. You do need to support the res with your other hand so you can press the tip of the screwdriver in there tight.

These screws are notorious for vibing loose and falling out. i replaced both clutch and brake a couple of times now. Use blue lokTite and go just snug. You don't need to tighten it up that tight again or you'll never get it off if it's LokTited.

If you tighten the cap according to spec (in the tutorial) it won't come off. I've gone without a clutch fluid cap retainer for over a year. The last one vibed out.

Again, we are missing a real clever design called 'squish the memory.'

Raise your hand you removed an oil cap with an adjustable wrench, vice grips, pliers. All you needed to do was snap your fingers as soon as you feel the rubber hit the contact.

CB750 oil filter bolts were so hard to remove, the squeeze of the oring sheered the 12mm hex right off. If I had a nickel for every filter bolt I removed with a sharp flat chisel, I could buy 2 H2R's.

So have you ever heard of caps coming off if the rubber is squeezing up on the res cap, oil filler cap, oil filter bolt? Not me. Do I need a stink-inn-wink-inn clip I dab 2 drops of white dots?

See how it evolves cg? We are way past your rez buzz off.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/16/2014 @ 12:57 PM *

And weight to ounces, Rook.. 4 parts of screw-washer-nut-clip = adds up. 2 paint dots facing you: not so much.

I suppose I should have given a little more info on the screw in question. I believe the nut is spinning in there, I can turn the screw until hell freezes over, but it never comes out! Yea, it being so difficult warranted a few choice words to say the least. The previous owner had a Kaw shop in his town change the fluids last year, my guess is that they either put loctite on it or tightened it up way too much. I gotta say, I sure do appreciate all of the insight into this. Most other forums I have been a member of, including the one for my current cage, are filled with people who would rather flame than offer any help at all. You guys are all awesome and it is a honor to be a member of your online community here!

I had the rear resivoir lid back off on my 08. Screwed it back on and never had another issue.

Hey rook where did you get the blue res. cap ? ebay ? gotta get one,

Oh, and I love those blue caras, awesome looking, I think they would look great on my bike ...

* Last updated by: carabuser on 10/16/2014 @ 1:41 PM *

I suppose I should have given a little more info on the screw in question. I believe the nut is spinning in there, I can turn the screw until hell freezes over, but it never comes out!

I could only guess the nut spins in that rez. So square the nut because it is even on all sides, buy or if you have the really petite size needle nose vice grips, you claw the block nut as you block it from spinning. The generic jaw type petite vice grips is holding the phillips head and break that apart from there without damaging the rez body.

Or I should say you are crushing the plastic boss that holds the nut. That's your needle nose bite is on the plastic boss [nut] holder.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/16/2014 @ 3:59 PM *

Most other forums... are filled with people who would rather flame than offer any help at all.

"The ZX-14 Ninja Forum is a gathering place for Kawasaki ZX-14 enthusiasts, where they can find answers to technical questions about the ZX-14 and share their ..."

This is when you type 'zx14 forum' and this place pops up. Flames happen when you remove a continuous chain off the bike and it's stated in the book one way, a loophole the other way, but if you get in the way with some off the wall way...

So have you ever heard of caps coming off if the rubber is squeezing up on the res cap, oil filler cap, oil filter bolt? Not me. Do I need a stink-inn-wink-inn clip I dab 2 drops of white dots?

And weight to ounces, Rook.. 4 parts of screw-washer-nut-clip = adds up. 2 paint dots facing you: not so much.

Hey rook where did you get the blue res. cap ? ebay ? gotta get one,

In the weight dept, the aluminum caps are a loosing proposition. OEM plastic brake rez cap is .4 oz. ProBolt aluminum is 1.7. Looks mighty snazzy though.

is a honor to be a member of your online community here!

Oh, and I love those blue caras, awesome looking, I think they would look great on my bike ...

Drawback: front rotor bolts are small. DO NOT TORQUE TO KAW SPEC!!! I broke one. Major PITA. Also aluminum threads...I go less than half torque spec in aluminum. About a quarter to one third at most and us LokTite. Also big project to safely install 90° valve stems. Check out my valve stem replacement tutorial for CZ 90° valve stem install.

CZ rotors???? not sure they are so great. They work but I got a brand new one and it seemed a little warped. They are very lightweight. You are supposed to use organic pads. YEs, my scintered pads GROAN when I'm on the brake hard. Not so bad now but pretty scary at first. TOo much grab with the high friction CZ rotors and the scintered pads...so it seems.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/16/2014 @ 6:18 PM *