Bike: 2013 ZX14R non ABS
Mileage on stock clutch and springs: 10500
Mods: voodoo shorty and PCV tune
Rider weight suited: 360lbs (yeah if I rode a pasta-rocket i'd probably eat it)

Upon reception of the bike I noticed some slip when transitioning from 1st to 2nd gear while practicing launches.

I very much doubted the previous owner has smoked the clutch in 9500 miles as he did not drag race and it was not his first bike, mostly commuting miles. The process to install is very straight forward and instructions are almost not needed.

After installation and testing 1-2 shifts at full throttle/10k rpm is crisp. 2nd clear clutch ups from 4k rpm is very very smooth and positive while before they were mushy. Light launches will now float the front wheel right through the 1st gear shift, all the way through 2nd, and sets it down while going into 3rd.

Parts:

Kawasaki 11061-0810 GASKET,CLUTCH COVER ($14 shipped from ebay seller)
EBC Brakes CSK23 Coil Type Clutch Spring ($11 shipped from amazon)

**NOTE** while the EBC page says 10% stiffer the actual package says they are %15 stiffer. Initial unscientific test with my man hands tells me they are indeed stiffer than stock springs that have 10500 miles on them.

Clutch is on the right side if you are sitting on the bike. The objective is to remove the large circular clutch cover that houses both the oil sight and the oil fill plug.

Tools:

I totally forget but I want to say the following is required:

5mm allen wrench/male socket
6mm allen wrench/male socket for a single bolt
8mm socket to remove clutch cover
ratcheting driver to match your sockets
1/4" or inch lb torque wrench
some oil to lube the new springs
Clutch cover bolts torque = 87 INCH LBS (tighten to 87 ft lbs and the bolt doesnt snap the head off i'll send you a dollar)
Clutch spring bolts = 78 INCH LBS (see above)

Steps:

Roll the bike onto some 2x4 peices (i used 2x10's i had left over from a car project). You want to get the bike off the ground an extra inch or two, then rest the bike on its side stand. The side stand should rest on the ground below the plane the tires are resting on. The effect is like your bike sank down into dirt/sand 1-2"s. Let the bike sit this way for 20-30 minutes. This will allow the bike to drain all the oil away from the clutch area. No drips.

Remove push pin fastener from the center chin area where both lower fairings meet just behind the front tire.

Loosen the two fasteners on the bottom gray lower fairing

Loosen fastener on the George foreman grill as well as the adjacent tank cover panel, pull the rear of the grill insert down slightly to loosen the tab, once loose you can shimmy it out.

There is another small fastener that should make itself evident on the mid fairing what was hidden by the rear of the grill insert.

Here is a picture of the exterior bolts that need to be removed to make room to work on the clutch cover

ALL clutch cover bolts are the same size.

EXCEPTION: the bolt circled in the picture must be re-installed with loctite, this bolt bottoms through into the interior of the oil bath and will seep oil if not properly installed.

I suggest spending the extra change on a new gasket, my original bent while removing the clutch cover.

Remove the old clutch springs one at a time. There are 3 peices to each spring:

The spring
The bolt (5mm)
The bolt seat (not sure what its technically called, it allows the bolt to apply pressure to the spring)

Lube the new spring and lightly tighten back in, Once all new springs are installed torque to 78 INCH LBS

Re-install clutch cover, remember to locktite the previously mentioned bolt. Torque to 87 INCH LBS.

**NOTE** The gasket does not require RTV, sealers etc... If you see some material on your old gasket its probably gasket adhesive from the factory.

Take the bike off your 2x4's blocks or whatever you have used to increase the parked lean angle. Start the bike, check for leaks. Let it idle up to temp. Get on the bike and check clutch engagement.

Button up and go for a low speed test ride. Once confident clutch up wheelie while drinking red bull or something.

* Last updated by: phildobaggins on 1/18/2015 @ 5:43 PM *

Good to hear. Thanks for letting us in on the 2x4 trick. I am planning to remove my clutch cover soon. I'll try that unless I decide I need to do an oil change anyway.

Why not Brock's? Sounds like you have as good of a result with the EBCs but Brock springs are the only ones I ever heard of being used.

I know the brocks are fancier and preload adjustable with shims but these were ten bucks and with a 4-5lb per spring increase I figured that would do to give the clutch a tighter fresh feeling for what I need. Mainly fat man clutch wheelies. Well see how it works on the track when it warms up.

Great write up sir.

Put about 75-80 miles on the springs. No noticeable difference in lever pressure. However I do notice a difference in low to mid rpm clutch engagement up and down shifting. The change is much more immediate after releasing the lever, not jarring but definitely more positive. I then stress tested holding capacity by 7-10 miles of retarded speed and lots of up/down shifting, all very very positive and no slip, moreso than with the stock springs.

Fantastic write up with some great tips, outstanding!!!

Now eliminate that slipper and truly unlock the power delivery.

I think my next mod other than maintenance items would be a re-flash to gain that torque back in the low/mid range. We will see how she does at the track here in a bit. The front end is pretty tame especially when I put my heft over the tank during careful 3-5k launches. Tends to only rise up at the top of 1st, and again at the top of 2nd and both times it barely floats 1-3"s. When i'm not trying to launch and just douche bag roll on from a stop that is definitely another story. Hopefully I can lose some more fat-tits by the time I get on the track. My only goal for the track this year to get better than a 9.99 and not crash or die.

Just keep your eyes open for a used clutch mod that eliminates the slipper mechanism. You'll be glad you did.

This looks like a great mod for those who want to keep the slipper clutch. I'm also planning a flash soon, so I'll probably do this at the same time. Thanks for the easy to follow info.

Yep I installed mine last week, and love how it all turned out. $11 was a no brainer vs. spending $175 on the Brocks clutch mod. I see no reason to delete the slipper for street use.

Hey phildobaggins - any feedback on these springs in the long term?

I bought a Brocks Real Street kit but I really don't need twice as heavy a clutch, so Im looking for a more street friendly option.

:)