Wanting to know if it is ok to go with synthetic oil at the 500mi service. I have been told that you have to wait tell about 2000mi or your cluch will slip. Is this true or false.

Use kawi semi-syn brand. This way there is no question about slipping clutches if kawi has their own oil @ 600 mile first service. Page 123 of your owner's manual.

I feel better waiting. I'd rather change oil often on a new engine anyway.

Thanks for the info guys. Will be going with kawasaki oil this time. Thanks again

If I'm not mistaken...Kawasaki fills the new motor with 300V Ester/synthetic 10-40.So yes...you can use full synthetic if you want.Motul synthetics are fine for wet clutches.7100 is a good Motul synthetic.I think I get a bit better trans shift feel with the 7100...been using it now for at least two years.Probably longer.

It can be pretty dusty here during the year...I normally will change as soon as I feel the shift action getting..."notchy'.Around 4K or so.The oil always looks like new.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/19/2015 @ 8:51 AM *

Grn14 thanks, I'm going to use Kaw oil this first change. At 2000mi I'm thing im going to use amsoil. I use it in all my stuff and have had really good success with it. Plus my kawasaki dealer here Carries it so its easy to get. Thanks again guys

Yeah, I'd run motul thru that spooling, Grn. Full syn is going to slip the clutch and then sign off like the trans shifting. Semi-syn, no clutch slippage to worry about.

Full syn is thru a car engine and no clutches are in a car's engine as is a bike. So full syn and do not spin the bike up is more like a governor you slow down on the break-in. I'd look at the oil level before you take it out of the dealer.

Only click here to bust your trouser zippers open.
http://web-cars.com/images/vette_img/2015-Chevrolet-Corvette-Z06-engine-cutaway-2_a.jpg

Slo, no hurry to go to synthetic, just change the dino oil a little more often until
you get some miles on it, just my opinion ....

I've run the factory oil to say...200 miles...then changed out to 7100 full syn...the manual has this full syn listed in there...so it can't be bad for any part of the motor or clutch....just sayin.Never had any clutch slippage...not yet anyway.

Dead dinosaurs rock!
Just like all tires these days.

You can't go wrong.

Here's my oil filter, from my first oil change at 1 K what a bitch could not get the factory filter off, finally got it off, of course I used K & N so I can use a real wrench (yes i'm oil school kept it simple)

My old CBR 1K I ended up cracking the those plastic fasteners on the fairings.
My GOD why do they make it into a pain and the ass with sportbikes, kept it simple by using clips like the old hotrods did for the hood.
I will have to get a lift for next time getting to old and beat up for being on my back and knees....

what a bitch could not get the factory filter off, finally got it off, of course I used K & N so I can use a real wrench

Mine was not so bad as yours but I also had a very hard time getting the factory installed oil filter off. I've heard that complaint from others as well. I only use OEM filters. If you turn it until it just touches the case and then ~1/2 turn more, it will not be so hard to remove.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=BF8429A6-D56B-84E2-1A155B51563CC500

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/12/2015 @ 12:27 PM *

I had to gnaw my filter off with my teeth. Woof!

Mad

I've changed my bikes oil twice now, the factory installed filter was a PAIN IN THE ASS to remove. I don't know if they over tighten it, or it just settled or something but I'm telling you I totally get hwy his oil filter looks like that.

Even the 2nd change the filter was a bitch to take off. But wasn't as bad as the original. Note in both cases I torqued the filter to spec, I think 13 ft lbs if memory serves me. I'll see how it is next year in about 3k miles (800 miles on current oil)

Having trouble getting the original filter off??? It's because the assembly line crew didn't oil the rubber gasket, unfortunately it happens a LOT! I had to drive a long screwdriver thru my original filter to get it off, this is my 3rd ZX and the other two were the same way!!!

I had to drive a long screwdriver thru my original filter to get it off

That's a great old mech trick but if you need to resort to that, be sure you DO NOT pry against or hit the threads. Also use a strap wrench and turn that along with the screwdriver.

I have noticed a couple of whacks on the oil filter with a rubber mallet or piece of wood helps to break the seal and make removal easier.

Go to the autoparts store and buy a filter wrench. They're $6 and are an exact fit for the Denso manufactured Kawasaki filters with p/n 16097-0004 or 16097-0008. Buy Performance Tool W54118.

* Last updated by: Fowvay on 2/24/2015 @ 1:51 AM *

Definitely pickup one of those filter wrenches as Fowvay suggested. However they won't always work, I've had a few times where the filter was stuck so bad that the filter wrench simply skips and can't loosen the filter.

I even have a strap style filter wrench that Rook was mentioning, if I remember correctly the first time I changed the oil I had to tighten it so much it crushed the filter similar to carinoart09's picture.

The service manual has some pretty high torque specs for the filter, probably doesn't need to be that tight but I figure if a bit of cursing or poking a hole in the filter "guarantees" that I won't have an oil leak, that's okay by me. :)

"Go to the autoparts store and buy a filter wrench"...yep..been doing that now for a year or more.That wrench changes everything. The screwdriver deal can definitely get messy.Install as per Rook.No need to crank that filter down once it seats.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 2/26/2015 @ 10:48 AM *

https://sp.yimg.com/ib/th?id=HN.608016775154368861&pid=15.1&P=0
No offense meant, but, I'd throw that $6 towards the better tool. How better? More Universal instead. No matter the bite, this baby does the job hands down.

I've changed my bikes oil twice now, the factory installed filter was a PAIN IN THE ASS to remove. I don't know if they over tighten it, or it just settled or something...

Even the 2nd change the filter was a bitch to take off.

It's because the assembly line crew didn't oil the rubber gasket..

a screwdriver thru my filter... this is my 3rd ZX and the other two were the same way!!!

I have noticed a couple of whacks on the oil filter with a rubber mallet or piece of wood helps to break the seal and make removal easier.

So the principal says that the compression works that well, it's not the factory, not the torque spec, but that simple design vs memory vs tension vs if someone come up with a better theory, then I am sticking to mine.

Signed,

No One Looks To Tension

I have the wrench that HUB posted. I can "twist the whole bike upside down " with that wrench. LOL

* Last updated by: ninja191 on 2/27/2015 @ 4:49 PM *

Most people never step foot on a Snap-on truck. For good reason.
I make a house payment every Month on tool trucks.

I take pictures of that thing every day, but this one is handy.
And unlike your penis, mine is bigger.