If you've installed a hyperpro I could use your help. I've read the instructions 3 times to make sure I didn't miss anything and I didn't. I double checked to make sure the bolts were the same size and I used the correct ones, they are and I did. I don't see the problem going away with further installation. When pre-assembling the mounting bracket I found the bolts all seat tightly on the left side but there is a noticeable gap on the right side. Did any of you have this too? It wouldn't be too hard to go buy some shorter bolts or use some washers but why should one have too?
Anybody run into this on theirs?

Hi Toledo, yep same for me.
Didnt mention because I just got the dremel out and shortened the bolts a little.
Kinda thought I had selected incorrect bolts but I was pretty sure I didn't.
But I agree.
For the money paid, why is all not correct.

Did you have to shorten the 6x25 low head that holds the damper clamp to the mount too? Tightened all the way down and the clamp still flops around. This is "F"ing rediculous.

After thinking about this for a few minutes (and I am a NOBODY no reason to listen to me) is between the bolt hole issues and absolutely having to remove the thing to do any work that involves removing the tank fairing I'd suggest calling Lee (aka smokingzx14) and order the Brocks.

I really may be giving this away very soon.

Hi Toledo,
Nope.
Only had to shorten the two mounting bracket bolts.

You will make your own call but my strong suggestion is stick with this damper.
Yes, there is extra work to remove the tank and other fairings but you currently have what I consider one of the best steering dampers on the market.

The progressive dampening is great.
Set and forget.
I don't know any other other damper that will do this without adjustment.

I love this thing and highly recommend it.

If you've installed a hyperpro I could use your help. I've read the instructions 3 times to make sure I didn't miss anything and I didn't. I double checked to make sure the bolts were the same size and I used the correct ones, they are and I did. I don't see the problem going away with further installation. When pre-assembling the mounting bracket I found the bolts all seat tightly on the left side but there is a noticeable gap on the right side. Did any of you have this too? It wouldn't be too hard to go buy some shorter bolts or use some washers but why should one have too?
Anybody run into this on theirs?

After thinking about this for a few minutes (and I am a NOBODY no reason to listen to me) is between the bolt hole issues and absolutely having to remove the thing to do any work that involves removing the tank fairing I'd suggest calling Lee (aka smokingzx14) and order the Brocks.
I really may be giving this away very soon.

Yikes, I hope I can help here.

Sitting on your bike, the left side bracket bolts over the wire/cable retainer. Right side, use the washer/spacer provided. You will see that the washer thickness is exact to the wire used on the left side.

Is this the space you describe ?

Currently I'm thinking you have maybe misplaced the spacer ??? This would explain why it may appear bolts to long.

Out of all the dampers I have installed this Hyperpro has the most solid mounting system. Hope this helps. If you need pic let me know. Cheers

The progressive dampening is great.Set and forget.I don't know any other other damper that will do this without adjustment.I love this thing and highly recommend it.

2nd, Sorry I didn't see this post sooner. If you guys get into something like this again please send PM if no one answers right away. It's just that we may have missed it or guys are like me and never look in this section. I'm sure in those two day you can get pretty pissed off. I know I too have had my moments. Sometimes the smallest of things can be the most frustrating.

The two bolts you are speaking of fit tight on both sides of mine. There is a spacer where the damper bolts onto side of the steering neck. I think this is on the right side of the steering neck. I have my Hyper-pro off right now. PM me if I can help with pics, etc.

Yea, it's a PITA to remove the thing to take off fairings. I may mod my tank fairing some day so the damper can stay on the bike. Still, I wouldn't trade this damper off for another brand.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/15/2014 @ 7:21 AM *

Thank you all for the replies.

The space you are mentioning is specifically called for on the right side if you DON'T have the ABS model. The instructions say to not use the spacer if you have ABS and mine is ABS so I didn't put it in. The brackets fit just fine on the steering head, the issue was the holes in the big black mount aren't tapped deep enough to let the 6x16mm bolts seat all the way down. I replaced the 2 on the right side with a couple of 6x15s I had laying around and filed down 1 of them on the left that was a touch too long.

As for the bolt that goes in the damper clamp, the short head bolt it will not seat down so will need to file that one down too. I do have the O ring and washer as the instructions call for between the clamp and the neck mount. And I also have the O ring for the damper to arm mount.

Benztech you are like me and like things to look just right so you won't want my damper. The problem with the bolt that mounts the clamp to the mount being to long rears its ugly head in a very noticeable way. couldn't figure out why the damper wouldn't slide into the clamp, well it wouldn't because when i put pressure or pushed down on the clamp to slide the damper in it made the bolt head stick up just enough that there was no way the damper would slide in and left scraped anodizing to remind me to not try moving ahead when I knew something was not right. @#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!

G'Day Toledo,

As mentioned above I experienced exactly what you did with the two mounting bracket bolts being slightly too long but definitely no issue with the damper clamp/bolt.

I used the spacer on the right side and as I have an 07 with no ABS but that obviously made no difference to the bolts being too long.
I guess it just wasn't that big an issue to me as it was pretty straight forward to resolve.

But of course you are 100% correct when you say it should not have been like that.

You sound exactly like me when it comes to things being just right so pisser about the scraped anodising but hopefully its on the bottom and out of sight.
Not trying to rub it in but I was so careful when sliding in the damper itself as there was no way I was scratching that puppy considering what I paid for it.

Sorry again you've had hassles...

If you grind the screws down, make sure you make a bevel on the tip and smooth it with emery paper. Then run it through a nut of the same thread to make sure the threads are smooth. I wrecked some threads once cutting a bolt down and i even used a grinder to bevel the tip. Safest bet is to get some screws from Ace Hdwr that are 5mm shorter...or paint a couple aluminum washers (Ace has those too) black and use as spacers with the bolts you have.

If you grind the screws down, make sure you make a bevel on the tip and smooth it with emery paper. Then run it through a nut of the same thread to make sure the threads are smooth. I wrecked some threads once cutting a bolt down and i even used a grinder to bevel the tip. Safest bet is to get some screws from Ace Hdwr that are 5mm shorter...or paint a couple aluminum washers (Ace has those too) black and use as spacers with the bolts you have.

If you will put a nut on the bolt first, then cut or grind the bolt shorter, then un-screw the nut ... the newly ground threads should get straightened by the nut. And if you want to bevel the tip and smooth it with emery paper ... again, screw the nut back on first ... just to make sure that nut is there to re-straighten the threads again in case you get them out of whack while grinding.

Just a little update. Sent an email to EPM performance (the importer in the USA) and Motomummy. Got a very nice email from Klaus (epm owner) and he forwared my pictures and email to the Hyperpro factory. Sounds like he thinks that hyperpro should send me a new setup. That would be great.

Talked with Motomummy last night and Jay (I think that is who i talked to) said he is going to talk to the owner about how to proceed. When I special ordered the titanium hyperpro from them I was told that once I opened the vacuum sealed package the damper mount comes in it could not be returned so with that piece of info I saw no reason not to shorten the bolts. Talking to them last night was told with the fitment issues I was having they would have taken it back even with it being opened.

Will update this again after I get an answer from one or both of them.

Romes asked..."Is this the space you describe ?"...no,it's not...he's talking about the two allens that are tightening into the black mounting piece right there...where the arms connect to go down to the frame holes.His second pic...see that gap?

Use the LONGER bolt for the clamp tightener...and the shorter one for the clamp-to base mounting...notice the top and center pics of mine...see the bottom area right there(where the bolt end would be coming out)...that gets one or two washers of the ID in there(ID of the clip that's there)...it'll allow that unit to snug up nicely...just don't strip those threads with overtightening.As far as the side mount bolts with mine...they fit okay...no gaps.Like was mentioned...just grind off a bit if you need to.I did NOT use the allens(though they did fit and snugged up good)...I used hex heads(factory ones for the bike itself)(I think 5mm?could be wrong...something close to that)...so I could get a socket with extension on there instead of trying to manipulate an allen wrench...just easier for me.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/16/2014 @ 9:26 PM *

Grn, are both of those bolts short heads? If so a good solution, if not it won't work. Had to be a short head bolt or the damper won't slide in.

Yes...the supplied bolts slide down into the casting...the heads don't stick up(that pic with the one bolt head sticking up is because I didn't tighten it all the way in...but it goes all the way in.It was backed out some to slide the dampener cylinder out..

You have to use the shorter bolt for the mounting point...otherwise...that longer one WILL hit the stop of the threads below...and it WILL stick up past the flush point on the clamp.That MAY have been why I put two small washers in mine...using that smaller bolt...it still allowed it to bottom out too early,but the two parts sat flush against each other.Yes...and trying to 'shim' the longer one for that...it was just too much a fill gap area to be secure with washers not being able to have the mounting ID diameter lip supporting em.In other words...you want the two surfaces mating to each other without a gap in there.The washers allow this with the short bolt.It HAS to be able to tighten down till it can't turn anymore.If not...your clamp piece will flex with the bar movement and stress that bolt.

The two pieces HAVE to be mated up tightly to each other.Any gap is gonna allow flexing on that bolt...not good.

Your dampener should have come with instructions...it did didn't it?It does talk about that bolt arrangement...and it's possible it had two small washers in there(supplied)...I seem to recall it did)..but wherever I got those washers...they fit like they were made for it?So...IDK.Had to have em in there from day one...so I think they did actually come included with mine.And I DON'T remember getting any 'spacers' with mine...maybe that's what these other guys are talking about...the washers...thinking maybe they're spacers?My bolts-to-mounting piece didn't need any spacers to get em to fit snug.
You shouldn't be needing any spacers either for the arm attachment to the frame...once this unit is totally tightened up...the arms will be VERY tight even without tightening...but of course...you have to tighten em up.

I will say here...I just went out and looked again at mine...I used 'factory' hex bolts for the arm attachment to the frame..and on the left side there...I kept that 'wire' in there.The supplied allen bolts I used at the top there...to hold the arms to the mount itself like your pic shows...they tightened up all the way on both sides without shims.It is possible you got a mounting piece that wasn't quite threaded far enough in on the right side....since your allen bolts are equal in length for all four,right?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/16/2014 @ 9:46 PM *

What Klaus (the importer) thinks is somehow 4 of the 5 threaded holes in the main mount didn't get threaded far enough since it didn't matter which of the 4 6mx16s where used the result was the same. If i could have found my 6mm tap this would have been painless.

I do have the instructions and Klaus emailed me a pdf of the to make sure mine where the same. They were. There is no mention of having to space the clamp mount bolt and definitely no extra spacer washers. never checked the bolt that tightens the clamp around the damper as it wasn't a loose bolt in the kit to check the head on it. But Klaus did say there's only one screw with the short head. I'll check the other bolt when i get home.

grn you mention using washers to space the clamp mounting bolt. You are still using the O ring there two correct? You and i have had our differences in threads before, hope this one stays civil between us.

If you will put a nut on the bolt first, then cut or grind the bolt shorter, then un-screw the nut ... the newly ground threads should get straightened by the nut. And if you want to bevel the tip and smooth it with emery paper ... again, screw the nut back on first ... just to make sure that nut is there to re-straighten the threads again in case you get them out of whack while grinding.

I see, with the nut already on the threads, there will be no problem getting it started on the thteads if there is any roughness from the tip being ground down. Thanks for the pointer, extrap.

Toledo, I think their going to send you two bolts that are 5mm shorter or a couple washers. Hope they do a new mount for you but looks like the gap is small enough to make increasing thread depth negligible.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/17/2014 @ 8:11 AM *

Toledo writes..."Had to be a short head bolt or the damper won't slide in"...yup...the heads are the same...it's the bolt is bottoming out.Use the shorter bolt.With the washer...tighten down till you can't turn the clamp.That's it...don't keep cranking on it...a small dab of red loctite will keep it from backing out if it tries to...mine didn't..but ya never know;)It's supposed to slightly move just a bit(very small amount)..to allow the piston to remain straight as you turn the bars...it'll turn as it should when tightened...IF you don't crank on it too much.Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this....

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/17/2014 @ 8:26 AM *

I've lost track of the convo but IMHO, just use blue loktight. Don't forget, you'll need to take this sucker off every time you take the tank fairing off.

I've been noticing that I don't need to reapply locktight every time i put a bolt in. The stuff stays stuck in the threads and makes the threads fit nice and snug like a nylock.

* Last updated by: Rook on 12/17/2014 @ 12:08 PM *

Very good news, Klaus got hyperpro to authorize sending me a whole new setup. Thank you Klaus.

One last question for you that have one of these. Did you use the O ring between the clamp and mount?

That's great news...getting a replacement;)Not sure where you mean though(the o-ring)...I may have on that part you were referring to earlier...probably did.I know I didn't use it on the clamping fixture.

Ok Monday I got a nice package from EPM. Got a new unmolested titanium damper and a new center block. I don't know if they picked a random one off the shelf, double checked the thread depths or actually tapped one down farther. All I know is with the new mount the m6x16s will seat down snug without the side plates even being on, definitely good to go there. The center hole is thread much deeper too. I didn't want to thread my homemade shorter bolts into the new mounting block so I picked up some new m6x16s and Klaus is sending me a new short head bolt. This leads to 2 more questions.

1) any tricks, or just how did you slide your damper through the clamp, to make sure you didn't scratch the damper up?

2) Now that I have a new set up again am thinking about selling it and getting the Brocks/ohlins. What would really be a slick set up is the hyperpro RSC with the Brocks mount.

Hooray for you receiving a new "unmolested" titanium damper!

When I slid my damper through the clamp, there was more than enough slack and space to ensure no scratching of the damper. With a bit of care, I really don't believe you'll have any issue now you have the correct tolerances.

And of course you will make your own decisions, but after quite a bit of road time with my Hyperpro RSC damper now under my belt, I would highly recommend keeping this damper and using the supplied mounting system designed for it...

* Last updated by: yannih on 12/24/2014 @ 8:50 AM *

I have one for sale. Not sure if you want used or not, but your welcome to borrow it and see if you like it or not before buying a new one.