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Thread: OOOPPPS

Created on: 07/23/10 09:41 AM

Replies: 14

Grn14


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Location: Montana

Joined: 02/25/09

Posts: 15511

OOOPPPS
07/23/10 9:41 AM

Okay...have a prob here...ANYONE know how to get this hardened BROKEN OFF torx allen out of my pad pin?I tried drilling...no go...it's too hard of metal.She's broken off flush with the depth of the socket.Either that,or how to remove the pin some way?I'm thinkin I may have to get a new assembly...ouch....well,$219.00 isn't TOO bad.Note to self...use the right tool fool.


* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/23/2010 @ 1:25 PM *

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rcflyer1388


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Joined: 04/19/09

Posts: 141

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 10:17 AM

nice...i actually had one of those at work the other day but with a philips, ur right its too hard to drill out...since mine was only a screw that i had to take off for a panel i used a small flat head and hammer to hit it in a circle basically to spin it off...but with u you have to find a way to drill that thing out enough to get a bite with the ez out cause its screwed down tighter than my panel that kicked my ass...did u try using a dremel to drill it out?? sometimes those things work well with those little bits that they have that can drill through almost anything...if that don't work, take off the caliper so you can put it under a drill press, that way u can get more pressure down on the bit and use a low speed with oil and that should def drill out that bit...high pressure, low speed is the key for hard metals

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Grn14


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Location: Montana

Joined: 02/25/09

Posts: 15511

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 10:25 AM

Well thanks RC...I may have to try a Dremel...either that or just get a another complete caliper...there's one for $59.00 on e-bay.(used,but in good condition).

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Hub


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Joined: 02/05/09

Posts: 13719

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 12:40 PM

rcflyer has been around the block. Follow flyer's suggestion. But since we are so close to the threads that begin at the caliper hole, use a fresh, sharply pointed punch w/hammer.

Since you're going to buy new pins, buy the spring retainer also. Here is where you need a second person to help. Waste the spring or the wave plate. OR, get enough bite around the shaft of the pin so now you hammer the pin at a 45° angle with the punch. Have the 3rd hand, load the shaft of the pin [w/vice grip bite] and then cause it to torsion back and forth to static in the unload.

Get this; you do not unload to static! You are at a constant load and do not twist the pin's shaft but wring it out like a wet dish rag. You do not want Mr. 3rd Hand to fuck up as you hammer that pin out. You are so close to wasting that caliper with a chunk out of the threads or damage to, Said Caliper!

Tear off that shaft to the pin, you have to take it to some, 'burn center' that takes and melts the pin, but saves the thread$. The torsion helps distort the whole pin's threads so as to shrink it out from the lock. Hey, maybe a tap at the pin will get it done, who knows ~ Good Luck!


* Last updated by: Hub on 7/23/2010 @ 12:42 PM *



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Grn14


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Location: Montana

Joined: 02/25/09

Posts: 15511

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 1:24 PM

Well...okay...thanks guys.Ya...I was able to tap the broken piece back to where she was loose in there.Pulled er out. Now I have a fine ready bolt.Only thing is...It's so damn tight!Tried hitting the center with a strong metal bit(sharp phillips)Friggin didn't loosen at all.The bottom one comes out..it was tight...but not THIS bad.I don't want to round out the allen head.Any suggestions on how to get that beotch loose?(won't need a caliper afterall WoHoooo!).Thanks again guys!It's right at a 5mm.Could I use a STRONG sharp edged allen bit and crank er out with the socket wrench?That's how I did the bottom one.When I went to do the top,she snapped off.How hard can I smack that bolt?(in the center of course).


* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/23/2010 @ 1:35 PM *

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Hub


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Joined: 02/05/09

Posts: 13719

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 2:20 PM

You can shock the threads if you can hit the center of the bolt head. To bring the hex back to form, take a big flat punch that can cover the whole hex part, but be under the full O/D of the hex bolt. Slam the metal back to a hexagonal shape. Then tap the hex tool into the hex hole to make it come back to hug their corners.

Then with a box end wrench-the loner the better, you flex or load the hex 90° to the bolt as you hammer the hex head at the "L bend," shocking the threads that way instead.



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Grn14


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Location: Montana

Joined: 02/25/09

Posts: 15511

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 4:38 PM

Ya...sounds good.Friggin hex head no longer exists.And I rapped the center quite soundly several times.Nothing.I've got an easy out(yeah,right)...but I need(ed)to drill out the hole some to get the beotch to fit.I'm stopping now.When I replace pads...which will be in a week,I'll get it again.No sense trying to work that thing out RIGHT NOW(though I H A T E to give in) .Will replace the pad pins then as well.The pinhead is definitely NOT gonna be usable again .I'm just hopin that when it's time to get er out,she'll come out WITHOUT messing up the caliper threads.If this deal with the easy out doesn't work,can I ream out the bolt head so the wall is nice and thin,and somehow "bend" it out of there?I tried the chisel deal there...for a second.It just isn't gonna have enough bite on it to turn the bolt without cutting the caliper hole edge....she's in there.And I can't get in the center Hub with a set of vise grips to hold that shaft or turn it.No way.That's a no-go on that one.Geeez...all I wanted to do was reface my pads!What should I use on the bolt threads when I put new ones in?And should I just tighten down snug...not majorly?


What do you think of THIS...I get a small torch,heat that bolt/thread area(just right there)and give er a go again(with the easy out).I know the caliper is soft as shit.So I'm not talkin"blast er good till she's RED"...just heated up.Will that harm the caliper or the pistons and seals?


I friggin may need a caliper AFTER ALL if I can't get that stupid pin to loosen up. Definitely don't want to snap that pin shaft.What a fuc$#@ nightmare.Shit!I don't know what's with these bolts on the calipers...not just these pad pins...but the damn caliper mount bolts were virtually locked stuck as well..my mechanic rounded one out last time he changed my front tire.Had to go and easy-out that one as well(it wasn't NEAR the hassle THIS one has been so far).So I pulled em all and reinstalled with new bolts.Didn't crank em down very much.Just nice and snug.THEY are doing okay now.(I think)


* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/23/2010 @ 4:57 PM *

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Hub


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Joined: 02/05/09

Posts: 13719

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 5:13 PM

Pull the caliper off, work it in a vice if you can. Needle nose vice grips from the bottom if you do not want to destroy the safety plate. You need that plate if you snug the pins like you should. See the step in the middle of the pin's shaft? If the pin backed out, that spring plate would catch the groove in the pin, stop it from moving out. For sure, you want to keep that wave plate in there.

Your best bet now is to get a left drill bit with a reverse drill at it. Waste the bit(s) by drilling all the way through. If that drill bites enough out, cause it to catch, it may spin out if you drill it to the left.



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Grn14


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Location: Montana

Joined: 02/25/09

Posts: 15511

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 7:56 PM

All good stuff...thanks Hubster and RC.................. Got that puppy out!One thing...DON'T EVER put red loctite on those threads!Not even a pinhead amount.That must have been what was holding it so badly.All four had a small bit of that on em.I took em all out....cleaned and am replaceing in there for now.Till next week.Thanks for the heads up Hub on that spring plate in there...I had no idea that divit in the center(of the pin) was made to keep the pin from completely coming out.Thanks man.Gonna reface my pads now...just for the heck of it and see if there's any difference in brake feel.Thanks again guys (I definitely WON'T be needing a used caliper!)WoHoooo!


(good thing...I aint got no stinkin VISE).


* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/23/2010 @ 9:28 PM *

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Hub


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Joined: 02/05/09

Posts: 13719

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 8:51 PM

SquidCityCyclesHere:

Red here: Page 12-8 says pin my taiL on the donkey kong.
Said City: Page say "circle-L" my front disc brake pin?
Red in the face here: Yes but...
Sad Cycle Say: YOu know how to read picture page or snot use any language but numb beers and let her rip with the L-gunk on your thread or it's JUNK! So says the book in so many letters or pit yours against the book. LOL
Red it an weep: I saved my ass is grass who put that shit on my page says nothing about an L is a special plate all designed-in to stop an L for lube job I'm not saying who did...
Said City: Did WATT High have a bad signal, Hello?


* Last updated by: Hub on 7/23/2010 @ 8:57 PM *



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Grn14


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Location: Montana

Joined: 02/25/09

Posts: 15511

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 9:17 PM

Well shit...Hell..I didn't think it would hurt anything..just a teensy miniscule,tiny,almost non existent spot on the thread.So.....I removed all pad pins(I stand on the 5th about that groove in the pad pin).Cleaned.Brushed stupid remnants of FRIGGIN loctite off.(hope this is right...."lightly(I mean LIGHTLY...like a fly's shit amount)"greased the threads on the pins(I just looked...I know I know....nothing on the threads.TOO LATE.I aint pullin em again)(You think I should?).Took a sharp flat file....refaced the pads(they're copper colored sintered).Lots of dusty copper looking crap came off.They felt VERY slick before filing em.There also looked like some LOW spots on the pads.HHmmmmm.So I flattened em good(filed) and sprayed with brake cleaner.Reinstalled(yes,even the other pin worked okay(NOW)).Here's the deal.I rebedded em in with some SERIOUS stops(starting gently first few times).They at first were making a pronounced vibration,almost like grainy feeling(but not pulsing)through the lever.After several fast runs and extreme stops with front only(just shy of locking the wheel)...they feel....EXCELLENT!Smooth again like when they were new.Don't know HOW long this will stay like this...but for now...me very happy.Puttin in new pads anyway next week....Kawasaki stock pads.At least I won't be sweatin that pin!!!!!All's good.I honestly don't remember the stock pads vibrating OR feeling anything but firm and smooth....so we'll see.I only replaced em cause everybody suggested HH Sintered(EBC).They didn't begin to display any weird lever feeling or pad feeling until I had SEVERAL thousand miles on em...by then...my precious Kawi's were at the landfill somewhere(shoulda kept em...they still had plenty of miles left!)I think I can safely rule out "warped discs"


* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/23/2010 @ 9:32 PM *

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Hub


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Joined: 02/05/09

Posts: 13719

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 9:42 PM

Well shit...I don't know HOW to take that... Brushed stupid remnants of FRIGGIN loctite off.

You weren't eavesdropping on my phone conversation, were you?



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Rook


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Joined: 03/28/09

Posts: 20592

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 9:54 PM

I can't tell you how to get that thing out of your hex nut, Blue. I just wanted to say

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, MAN< IF YOU ARE GOING TO SHOW PICTURES OF YOUR RIMS, AT LEAST WIPE THE ANTS OFF FIRST!



&#x27;08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE Now Deceased

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Hub


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Joined: 02/05/09

Posts: 13719

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 10:15 PM

Yep, that ant died like that girl in Goldfinger. Too much red locktite is my forensics on the rim job.



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Grn14


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Location: Montana

Joined: 02/25/09

Posts: 15511

RE: OOOPPPS
07/23/10 11:20 PM

That aint no ANT Boys...that's the remains of a nickle sized wing-ed green thing that "just happened" to get caught up in the moment!I was wonderin WHO was gonna see that.I swear,those suckas hit ya or yer bike,sounds like a shot o' rock salt comin at ya.


And Hub(how'd you get that DELETED part?.... "you,you're good you")....IF you ever actually SEE one of those red bad boys...whatever ya do,DON'T pick it up.They're actually WASPS that lose their wings when they get all grown up...yep.Hurts like a SOB...I know.BTW...THEY are out in Cali....might even find some up by the Rock Store..true story!


* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/23/2010 @ 11:26 PM *

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