Houston we have a problem ... ever time I start the bike with the Cblast flash it's tossing a code 39

( ECU communication error )

It did NOT do it the first few times I started it a few days ago when I first put it in .. Nothing has changed other than a new tire and fresh fuel .. :dunno:

I was planning a track day this Thursday night , now I don't know what to do ..?

* Last updated by: Smokinzx14 on 10/28/2014 @ 5:35 PM *

Is that your only ECU?

hagrid I have two ECUs ... One with cblast/nels flash and the other with Brocks /Guhls flash ...I plugged in the Guhls ECU and no code 39 ...

* Last updated by: Smokinzx14 on 10/28/2014 @ 5:35 PM *

LP: sure you've already looked it up but for everyone else without the manual 39 is ECU communication error.

There must be a bent pin or something? I've never heard of an ECU just spontaneously scrambling itself.

If nothing else you could try to flash the low power side with a stock bin to see if that corrects the fault.

Word. That sucks....

C!!! Send this man a new ECU ASAP!!! We are all waiting patiently to see the results.

* Last updated by: nasty on 10/28/2014 @ 6:16 PM *

Hmmm...that's strange.Pin Check...or lines entering/leaving the harness?It's communicating alright...enough to tell ya it isn't working as it 'should'....dumb question here I know...but...you don't have a fueling module or something else along that line do ya?I know...dumb question.You say it worked fine several times...sounds like a pin connector maybe not going all the way in?Loose maybe?Wire at the back loose?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/28/2014 @ 6:56 PM *

Okay Fazer..whattaya know that we all don't???LOL!

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/28/2014 @ 6:57 PM *

ZX10's do that when the battery is not quite up to snuff ...

I just find it funny that every time there is going to be a comparo something gets in the way.

I told ya...this is REAL high Drama...a real test...real players.There's GOT to be some wavering along the line to build the suspense....ALL the top box office hits follow exactly the same storyline;)This is GREAT!!!!!!

We had a conversation, and I do believe the problem is solved. We will triple check everything and continue to let the suspense build...

Pins good .. P/C unhooked .. Cblast and I just got off the phone and we may have come up with a cause ..Anyway Weds day I'm going to add some Dielectric grease to the pins and go over everything just to make sure ..Other than that I'm all set to go to the track and get to testing ...I'm taking my Guhls ECU just in case the code pops back up ..

Great minds think alike Smokin!

The suspense is killing me!!!!!
Or at least Shortening my fingernails
From the constant nail biting!!!!

Sheesh...HOW in the ...do you WAIT till Wednesday to see if she'll work right?I'd be out there turnin that key(and ruining the drama)...;)...wait....okay...I get it...this IS part of the drama!Well done Lee...LOL!!!

Don't feel any suspense. I know what shall transpire. That flash shall detonate!

Plug in ECU again. Code still present?
If Don's-flashed/Stock-ECU(s) lights up, no codes:
1. Not the pins of either ECU.
2. Not the connector's female ends from the ECU wire harness.
3. Conclusion: Not the bike but the C-flashed ECU.

Diagnose make sense between a good known ECU and the flashed ECU?

Hub, you have no clue what the situation is. you are incorrect in you assumption. Read the description of said code. Figure out what causes it. It is most definitely not a 'flash' issue. Chime out.

I had the flashing 39 on mine. I removed the ECU, installed it again, turned the key on = No codes.
Let the bike ping the 39 away. Either key off or unplug it again. Mine ran that way, but I forget if I hacked the GPS when I flashed mine and I could not shift worth shit when that code was present. I had to turn around and either unplugged the hack or the flash. I do remember it pinged itself to normal.

Take the bike for a ride, turn the key off, turn it on, see if the code pinged itself off. If it ran with no codes it's gotta be a spike? Battery recovered and that is why Don's didn't spit a code? So, now I question the sitter with 600 miles vs. what year is the bike? And the static current is? 12.1v or 12.7?

C? Watt just made sense, a Don flash and no codes or your ECU and it pings a code? It was the lower bar at the dash where F and OFF are. I looked up code 39, saw the dash area where it is located and low and behold... So we are on the same page...

... I turn the wall switch on, and no light. I change the bulb and the room lights up.
1. Not the fuse.
2. Not the current missing at the house.
3. Not the wall switch.
4. Not the wires to the bulb.

See how simple that is in the diagnosis? Same deal as if the stock ECU went back on line, no codes, then no wires at fault, no sensors, no pins, back to the good known part. Either the bulb's filament burned out or we back-probe the house.

So I am going to tell Smoke not to chase his tail looking for any down wires/sensors/etc on the bike that runs normal when 2 other ECU's show no code. I'm trying to save your ass here, C. I want that ping to occur and that's my experience. If you could not follow the first diagnoses, bow out. This shit is for the big boys we start to diagnose the bike... Period.

Uh Oh...HUB!Behave yerself!ClassicLOL!!!

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/28/2014 @ 9:38 PM *

And the static current is? 12.1v or 12.7?

WATT you should have said was, the current flow to both ECU's is not the voltage. Why? Don's flash did not code as if low battery, or some other bar was causing the blinking scenario. I've already established voltage numbers.

I look on the code page and it says 3 variables you read between the lines:

Wires to jobbers (dash and ECU are the jobbers) so no wire down is 1.
The dash is working, because it sent the flashing code. No jobber failure on this end.
The only end left is the last jobber and that is the ECU. Why? Code 39 says, if the wires are fine, the dash reads out a flashing code, there is no backup to the ECU = THE ECU!

So, it's not the pins, not the j-boxes (CAN), not a thing wrong we swap a (Don's) jobber or the ECU. My suggestion was to keep pinging the black box, turn the key off, pull the box, kill the RAM saved, or ground (certain) pins to wipe the RAM, you default back to the previous flash that booted up the first time you plugged it in is the ROM you are after.