Again, I could run a servo and unlock the clutch basket from rear wheel chatter. You won't have compression braking for a split second; until back wheel stops hopping. I have no access to a brake line to release your foot. I would though, add more front brake to the limp wrist. Until that manual is in hand... Keep guessing abs breath.

I think the website was SportRider...The Ktrc system on the 14R is NOT the same as the 10...or the connie.Totally different parameters going on,and a new CAN deal to process everything WAY faster...32 bit...that's the fastest that I've heard of.Definitely TOP level engineering.Gotta remember...these guys are designing engine,transmission,rotor systems for extreme performance aircraft.I know...sounds lame...but they do know how to make this kind of thing actually work....it's not a simple as it sounds...all the stuff this system is doing at any given time.What's a rotor system....it's a wheel turned horizontal.What's it have to do as it's cutting through the air....and transferring the lift and such from the trans and engine(s).It's having to do a lot more than just spin.And it better be right the first time when it does what it does at any given situation.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/18/2011 @ 12:36 PM *

Maybe if I lived in frisco, I'd use a rear brake.

HERE is the Sportrider article about TC systems.

Maybe if I lived in frisco, I'd use a rear brake.

So wrong... funny... but wrong.

blue, they are going to snuff the sub closed/ignition follows or vice/verse, that is apples and oranges. Concept says, I am going to drop the 3 amigos for a split second on who knows? 1 cylinder? Cut the HP on the next pulse = WATThe??? Who went spinning back dare? blue has mode, wrist limp on selection 3... Which is 1 of 4 switch is which is another way of saying... Fuc Q, I'm setting mine up = CODE BLUE!

When you look at it in a certain way...it actually IS an abs kinda in reverse.Not the same,but similar in how it applies the technology to correct split second changing conditions.It's quite sophisticated.That's why messing with the flies or any of that stuff is gonna be very hard to manipulate.Apparently,all that stuff is working in conjunction with each other.Not just one or two single parts.

MEANING...HUB...IF you remove that rear brake,the signal is gonna go where?Maybe they were checking out your previous posts about not having one on YOUR Kawasaki..and cuz they love ya so much,they decided to make something on their new bike(which they trusted you were gonna buy)to keep yer azz safe and sound!Now you HAVE to learn how to trailbrake!

Besides bro...they already took care of ya....it's got an OFF position (guess that means...you CAN remove that rear caliper afterall!)

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/18/2011 @ 12:58 PM *

Here's a question for ya...okay...look at those side pics...see where the seam is on the upper cowl?The one going vertically?(well,angled forward anyway)Okay...now....where the heck is the seam for the upper cowl at the bottom of that piece?I mean...shouldn't there be another vertical seam separating the upper cowl from the midfairing? somewhere to be able to lift that upper cowl off of there?Where the heck is it?You would think it would be continuing on down to the flattish part of the upper cowl...then going forward along that interface of the upper and mid fairings.I don't see any break at all in any of the pics I've looked at showing the front/side of that bodypart.WTH?They all look like it's molded as one piece.No fasteners...nothin.Just that one seam up there.Certainly the whole midfairing doesn't lift off there,ya think?With the upper cowl attached?That would be trick.Kinda like what ya have on a Semi?The whole body piece lifts up and out to get to the innards .I was thinkin that upper cowl lifted off there...but I'm not seeing any seam along either of those 'two' parts,the mid fairing and the upper cowl.You guys see any seams on there?There's gotta be one...otherwise,the two fairings would be one piece?Slick....pretty slick.This is going to be good I tell ya!They also mentioned something about "access to the air filter has been improved"...something like that,along with a bigger capacity filter.Hmmmm.....that would be cool.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/18/2011 @ 1:27 PM *

Patents... Weeeeeeee! I'm reading off and on. Here goes the hubbish without reading the whole thing...

... I'm going to think X and Y. I was thinking straight up is X = Wheel-Speed-Based. Bingo! Back and front, say hello to my new fren. Ding-Dang-Dong. 3 way. I'm going to keep getting it wrong, this is the net, who cares. Sub/ign/fuel cuts.

X me this? I am straight up. I could care less what tire size you have. Key on, key off, I am going to learn real quick, if I were to build some ecu software. My fr/rr tone wheels are stopped dead. I cycle key on, we have two windows, send me a 360 on the front, 360° turn on the rear. Do we have our numbers?

Squidly puts on some toot looking rear wheel that is out of spec. Tone fr and tone rr care? Not the way I would build a patent. Guess 'watt'? Code sent. Tone rr is out of tooth window. Don't we know the aspect ratio will be timed for the OEM's ratio? Again, I have not read it all. Maybe it is answered in the X part of the article?

The Y is the lean axis. I forgot about that in the physics of it all? As if I was listening? Like I kept dreaming out the window instead of learning the basic abc's/123's.

In the most recent WSB shown on Speed, this past weekend, you could see the KTRC on the ZX10Rs kicking in when they started to spin the rear and slide. It was funny, actually.

So sad, the two Kawk bikes were close enough to fight for a podium spot for a while. Well, one of them was. As the race went on, they fell further and further back.

Is it the 2011 ZX10R at fault, or is it that Kawk just can't get good riders? It is really pitiful.

The latest version C14 KTRC uses the rear brake. If it sees ABS installed it uses that too. I'm wondering if it turns the brake light on out back.....

You know Privateer...I thought the same thing.About the brake light that is.I think the 'brake application' if/when needed to fine tune the Traction deal in split seconds is so small that it doesn't activate the lamps.It's not like you were pushing down on the brake.I'm guessing here..as usual!You know...if you change your pads...you can see how'slow' the pistons slide back.When ya apply the brake...the pads STILL touch the rotor...but they don't just 'release' and get ready for the next brake application.There's something else going on with the new system,those pistons have to somehow be sensitive enough to retract and apply in small amounts in a split second.Over and over as your riding.Hundreds of times possibly in any given situation.Interesting...very.And complicated.I can't see the 'old' design of the calipers/pistons as being the same on this new deal.Too slow for one thing.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/18/2011 @ 1:37 PM *

First, blue, I don't ride that fast to need a rear brake. I'm not even close to hammering this bike hard. The little guy I have fun with. Mule is fine as is.

Meaning, things run in that 3amigo window. You remove the tone wheel = Code!
You disconnect the hall effect = Code!
You mess with anything, why? The " -- " shuts it off. Now, as far as it knowing it is plugged in or not?

I probably say too much, they might close that loop too. Yeah, they loved me so much, they threw that dash closed for me, had the EE's lock that loophole up I found. Besides, technically, you need all the loops unmolested. One of the 3a's drop out, she codes.

You are gonna get one,right?Even if it has a rear brake,right? Since ya can't seem to learn how to apply it without stabbing it...they went and took care of it for ya...so.....

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/18/2011 @ 1:41 PM *

And look at how stupid that apriliaforum tongue spoke. Of course the senor has to be plugged in like an 02 (someone thinking it is out?) It has to know it is shut down at the " -- " so it can turn itself on, select what you chose. See the walk fumble?

Yeah, I'll be timed in to get one. Life is short and I think my body is telling me sooner than I think.

Good...that's settled then.BUT...IF the unit is turned off....does it then know that it's plugged in?C'mon.....(this is not the same as the proverbial "if a tree falls in the forest and nobody"......well,you know ) .I'm serious.Could be the key yer looking for to disable that bad boy and REMOVE that caliper!

Okay...put it another way...if I plug my lamp into the wall...does it recognize it's plugged in?Hmmmmm?Functionally,the bulb and switch and all are fine.The plug's fine.The wall socket's fine.It stays ready whether a plug is in there or not,yes?But it doesn't do ANYTHING until the connection is made by turning the switch.Okay....I'm a smartazz....In the off position,you could most likely unplug that caliper plug...and get the same result,ya think?No harm,no foul.UNLESS..that circuit has a small amount of current in it and recognizes a break in the deal.Like some of those sensors.Small residual charge.Enough to signal a problem immediately upon current break or something(open,short).

You know Hub...this new bike...it may not LET people do certain tweaks to it because it's just too interconnected to it's own systems.Okay...you remove the secondaries,yes?NOW what happens when the Ktrac goes to change the fuel mix at whatever thing it does at that moment.Now it has no control over a crucial part of the 'system' that's trying to use it.Is it gonna work...or code and shut down in ...as you say...'limp mode'.IDK.I'm not gonna mess with mine to find out.Unplugging that rear wheel sensor or whatever it is could potentially throw the whole ignition/fuel/braking deal on it's ass.Ya think?IDK...just daydreaming,that's all.Those Kawi boys over there are pretty durn smart....I think there's a lot more going on with this new ride than people think.The easy mod days are gone with this one.Pulling flies,stuff like that.They did say...it was WAY advanced in EVERY way.From the bodywork to the electrics and all.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/18/2011 @ 2:52 PM *

The lamp deal is for other things. Lamp is parallel. You are on your own and alone. Here is CAN:

Stick your arms out. I am going to go under your arm as I stick my arm out over or under yours. Someone is going to stick their arms out, be under me, and someone is going to be under their arm with someone and so forth. By the time we have everyone connected, I have two people under my arms as I am under or over someone else.

Series goes like this. Someone tells me down the arm or we cross legs. WATT is the difference, do you see you have a backup? Your other person can send data if the other person under your arm goes to lunch. You are parallel. YOu go to lunch, the lights are off... Nobody is home. Fishstanda?

Now, if we look at a light socket, pull it, lights out, the ping is gone. In this analogy, the filament is out or not glowing. That means, the ping is with key on. Or in this case, the wall switch is on. So, right away, bells should be ringing, key on, everyone is under arm, crossing leg, I have 4 ends that if one leg drops, the arm still sends signal = Series.

If that person drops out, it is a resistor loss. It is a balance lost. She punched out for lunch. ECU receives that data, the FI light comes on. The resistor balance in series is the the code takes over in the redundant. Sort of a safe-fail, something goes wrong, I'd sure have engine speed as a well, say I divide crank speed by name that number? 360? 180? 90? I am not an EE. I would no know where to start building. I do not know the parts is parts only assembles one way or blows fuses or heads to fail-safe you go messing with any wires.

Too bad the other site was not up. I woke up in a sweat one nite. I think I had a dream about Ivan. We all went back to carbs and points. All was back to tapered needles and jets, packaged for yamadogsandshit.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/18/2011 @ 3:46 PM *

Why remove anything electronic wise? It says it is off anyway when you see " -- " in the mode display. Burn the tires off. Send the front end in the air for miles or if you hear an engine knock... Whichever comes first.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/18/2011 @ 3:50 PM *

Ya...I see what you're saying...I do..BUT....ONLY if there's a connection to another 'live wire' can the whole deal work.Regardless of over, under,multiple paths,parallel, or series.NONE of them work UNTIL...that switch,wherever it's at in the circuit is turned to allow the info(electrical signal strength)(impulse) to pass along.Even if the circuit is broken(short to ground,open wire),the impedence is still there..until you turn off the switch.It can be a short or broken path,that won't be recognizable...UNTIL...the switch is closed.UNLESS...the switch has a residual amount of 'closedness' already there,reading a millivolt or whatever to stay communicable.Yes?That's what I'm sayin.You shut off the Ktrc,no reason you shouldn't be able to disable(unplug) that sensor back there,and ride without a rear caliper.Problem is...when you begin to toggle through the POWER MODE(S),it IS connected to the KTRC system,and the circuit is never really dead.That's what I get from what I read about it.IDK yet if the "off" position in the Ktrc actually completely blocks a signal to the power modes.It seems like it might.Or the other way around.It looks like...you can be in either High or LOW power mode,and disable the Ktrc at any time.It's supposed to be fine tunable from the pilot,depending on which kind of road condition you're on,or whether you want wheel slip to whatever degree you need for maximum control.It does allow for wheel slip.In varying conditions.From no slip to slipping pretty good.To not activating at all..like our now 14's.On the Low setting for power,you still can set the Ktrc for 1,2,3 or 4(off).This deal is quite intelligent.Kawasaki loaded a bunch of parameters into that system brain.A BUNCH.Way more than any other traction system out there.You know they take extreme pride in their accomplishments...they MAY have programmed in a "do not touch" switch.That's what I'm thinking.I mean,guys still haven't figured out HOW to actually,permanently get rid of the engine speed limiter,right?Extending the speedo values...yeah...but NOT the engine factory limiter....have they?She still shuts down at 11,000something rpms,right?Regardless of gearing or speedo read.What about that ignition module...does that allow for MORE rpms on the 14?It did on my Harley.

I'm trying to understand WHY they would put a REDLINE at 11,000.....and carry it all the way to 13,000,or whatever that is.Apparently,there IS a way to open up the factory RPM settings and raise em.yes?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/18/2011 @ 4:02 PM *

First of all, long rods are for torque. Short rods are for spinning up high. I have no clue about soft and hard. Hard says it can move higher in rpm, but you need a handheld to get there, that or flash it higher. But, then again, I don't know the basics of flash to understand if it can be written in 200 more rpm? And now flash it to 11,200 rpm, if out of the crate revs to 11,000 rpm.

I looked at the left side of the bike just now. Not much can be seen, but I'm seeing a possible loophole. Don't wanna say right now. Once I see the show model, the busa's angle to 2012... I don't care what they bring out. I'm sold.

I'm gonna guess they've wired in a secondary sensor circuit,hardwired somehow into the ecu which will not allow that plug in sensor back there to be removed,if indeed it can be(probably,cause they'd need to replace something there if it went south).I would guess...if you undid that plug...something is gonna code..telling you...'you've lost your Ktrc ability".That would make sense to me anyway.I don't think you're gonna be able to bypass that system.I think it's too interconnected to the engine and timing and all.You'd need something,if you were rollin down the road and somethin snagged and ripped that wire outta there.You'd need something to tell you"don't rely on your Ktrc now...it's not workin"...dontcha think?And don't forget that front wheel sensor.That's got a lot to do with whether or not the rear kicks in.And how much.And THAT's running to the engine program as well.

Hell...I don't care...I think it's gonna be a real good thing.It's easy to sit here and surmise what it would or wouldn't be with or without it...but I think that system is going to REALLY make a HUGE difference in the way she handles,speedwise,cornering wise...the whole nine yards.They lightened the wheels....to match the Ktrc system and the overall possiblities of the whole bike...that's what I think.Gonna be a superbly rideable ride ..way better than our now 14's.It will NEVER be a 600.Or a 1000.It's not supposed to be.It's supposed to be the biggest,fastest,most contollable and comfortable ride out there,with the most power of any bike on the road.I think they've got a winner here.Can you imagine rolling(hypothetically of course)at 190,leaned all the way in to the feelers,and having her feel like she's doin 80?That smooth?.MMMMMMMMMMM...I can

I certainly won't be trying that...no way...BUT,at legal highway speeds,in that neighborhood,I think this bike is gonna surprise EVERYONE with it's finesse and handling abilities.This is a BIG selling point for Kawasaki with this bike.They made a pretty big deal out of "handling upgrades".This is not the last zx14.Or the others.It isn't a 'facelift'.This bike has got some serious improvements in it.Good stuff.REAL good stuff.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/18/2011 @ 4:38 PM *

Second of all, that mode switch? I'm all over that thing. Look at me? I am bone stock. I told you, I buy wheels and an engine. This time, black is not being touched. That mode switch better pee forum or you'll ear about it. I am talking; out of the gate, we are in next county... Okay, next city limit. There is one mode that is the gate keeper.

Ya...FULL baby...that's all mine's ever gonna see This bikes gonna friggin ROCK Hubster.Imagine takin off at a light,full throttle,frontend lifts about 3 inches...that's it....full on no loss of control.No fishtailing.Just straight ahead POWER baby!(with a slight smoking of the rear natch) .Full on ...into second...130 mph...light lift of the front...no loss of traction...just straight ahead power.Same with 3rd,and 4th.Are you in yet?Need I say more?190 in,oh,20 seconds?sound about right?

You know,I've been looking at the pics from the Kawi site.It looks to me like that upper cowl comes together at the nose.Okay,now,the two curved out places on each side of the cowl,in front there,they look like air ducts going DOWN into the midfairing right there.Not on the sides(well,on the sides but not WAY back),but swooping a bit back along that edge there.I think the fasteners are somehow UNDER that flat portion of the midfairing that goes along the front sides there(the flange running horizontal on the upper midfairng).Connects underneath to the "inner fairing assembly" that on our bikes is that triangular shaped big black plastic piece...the one you remove to get the turn lens in or out.That's what they look like...those two curved front areas...air ducts.There IS a small gap between the surface of the curved part and the flat(horizontal)part of the midfairing.For about a five inch length.How cool.Very nice!Maybe tunneled back along the midfairing and upper cowl in those two swooping places up there? moving that hot engine air out and away from the rider's legs?Hmmmmmm.The more I look at that design..the more I think that those two curves on the front channel the oncoming air into and over the engine,forcing the hot air OUT through the side ducts there.No more cooking flesh!Those Orientals....aint they somethin? The shape and design of that upper cowl/upper midfairing interface suggests to me that that shape is a channel for the outside windflow to be directed RIGHT ONTO THE RIDER'S knee area...and lower leg.Any hot wind coming out of that side duct will be displaced with that rush of wind flowing down there.Someone here mentioned "form following function"?There ya go.Don't know if those actually are slits in there...hard to tell in the front view...one side looks like it could be that,the other(in the sun)looks pretty well butted up with that other piece.IDK....It's fun to speculate!

Next observation....ahem...IF you placed that bike on her side,what are you gonna see as the main focus.The Side fairing.And you'll notice..it's big and..well...shaped like an airplane wing.With a nice TRIM TAB at the angle there under the tank.Look at the angle(as she's flat)....the air moving over that surface...it's creating lift.Which in turn,PULLS the hot air out from the engine compartment.Which then is directed with the angled 'flap' of the air duct,and out and away from the rider's legs.The sharp angle under the tank there on the foreman,that creates a 'stall' condition in any remaining airflow....which is dissipated by the air channel on the upper cowl and upper midfairng.You guys still think is 'just a motorcycle?" They have said in their presentation....'there is a new bubble of calm air for rider AND passenger".You look at those ram duct covers....there is a very flat and well fitting surface there...enough to separate the upper air from the lower incoming air.And that tight fitment goes all the way up and against the inside of the upper cowl plastic.SHWEET.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/18/2011 @ 5:55 PM *

Yep, blue, I think you got the button power figured out pretty much. I was riding along with you as you said it. Kiss my ass, look at the weight. If I read the Kcrap, it has half an ABS at the back brake hose. Yep, we take over your ign/sub/pads = You can't jump, nor ride!

The system calculates how much power should be increased or reduced at any given moment based on the closed-loop format as well as the rate-of-change format.

Now, if you read the PEE-YOU-SHOW patentshit, they say the system is in closed-loop all the time to function? Am I reading that right? I told this Ed guy at apriliaforum, hello? You are trying to tell me map2 is not in closed loop? I was walking the hubbish right out of the 14's man you will pay you do not know the loop system. I think I had it covered without knowing this info about closed working slow but who cares, we figured a way around eur02>>> LOL!

Read more: http://www.sportrider.com/features/146_1110_advanced_traction_control/viewall.html#ixzz1bBWFCxjw

It's a waste to go under another name and just raz their ass is. I'd have to do that to 47 other websites. Ain't worth it, me reading that FSM my way.