"It will only run 108 to 1/8 then 136 1/4." - 1400R

O dear lord.... I would dig a hole... and then throw it in... and pull the pin... and drop the grenade... Well at least my problems aren't that bad? Sorry bro. I'm just trying to get back to 155.

108 MPH in the 1/8 mile ??? Did you fall of at the starting line ? You sure you were on a zx14r ? All jokes aside you got a real problem if that is all it will run ..

What's bugging me is that I went damn near 126 through the 1/8 and then it won't back half. Do you think a fuel pump could be at fault here Smokin?

maverick1441 It's possible , my guess you have checked everything else and come up empty handed ..Trying a fuel pump would be the next step .. A wide band 02 with data logging would tell you what is going on in the back half with the fueling..

* Last updated by: Smokinzx14 on 10/1/2013 @ 6:56 AM *

Fuel pump on the way. Next up will be injectors and if that doesn't do it I'm going to pivot the motor down and pull the head. I think it'd be neat to see the hand porting from team Kaw anyways.

how many times has it run 155.
Has it been a consistent 155 runner in the past.
If its only done it once or twice there could be other factors.
Wheel Spin. Timing glitch.

Na it used to go 152-153 very very consistently. I never even saw a sub 150 pass until a month or two ago when the problem began. This is why I feel so strongly about there being something wrong with my bike.

173 ~ 261 PSI is the range the R has. Before you take the bike to the track:

1. Chassis prep
2. New oil/filter
3. WOT is the compression before I leave the house = Chase my tail????
4. Not me!

So, the question is, do you check after every weekend? Have you ever checked that yet so as to clear that variable?

is anyone out there making 225HP stock?

I dunno about that but Smokin went 155 on a short shift pass and he is set up almost identical to me. My pig is barely squeezing out 149.

Initial compression test on the number 4 cylinder equals 140 psi..... I'm going to test the rest and see how they come out but things are already looking bad....

OUCH...how the heck does THAT happen?

Better you do a leak down so you can see who bleeds the most. 140 hot or cold? My train of thought is if the car/bike/lawnmower does not start cold first pull/kick/crank, why would I want a hot number? I want a cold number so I can see why I'm having the trouble I'm having.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/5/2013 @ 12:02 PM *

Ok well here's my theory. This motor may have a decompressor on the cam so that the starter can actually spin this beast over. My dry compression tests are as follows Cyl.1- 148 Cyl.2-149 Cyl.3-146 Cyl.4-145. I did a wet test on cylinder 1 for comparison and it netted 10 more psi at 158. I'm headed back out to the shop to wet test the rest.

Head out the shop and tear it down. She's out of spec wet or dry.

And no, there is no cam that retards the penultimate 14.7 like you're going to get less vacuum? Open or closed, the cylinder drew in said vacuum, and now cannot hold 14.7 too well. It bleeds down the piston. Smell the oil. Smell burnt like a piston skirt is burned. Sort of metallic smell to it? Either way = She's cooked!

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/5/2013 @ 12:09 PM *

Ahhh damn you Hub your right.... I didn't warm it up before I tested it... Still those numbers are very consistent and the possibility of having the exact same compression problem in all cylinders is less than unlikely. I suppose I could put all the plugs back in, warm it up, pull them all back out, and test again. Sometimes I hate this bike. It looks like the nice two gauge leak down tester are going for around $200+

What are the chances that one of the cams jumped a tooth? Compression effected no? Will check.

* Last updated by: maverick1441 on 10/5/2013 @ 12:15 PM *

Like I said, don't waste your time. Hot she runs like shit down the traps. I cold turkey'd my cylinder compressions and the '08 was 220-220-210-220 = Cold. I want a cold number so I know the H-D kicks a 1/4 kick the compression is that cold to start it. Yours? 5 maybe 6 kicks so you get some kinetic built up to help fire the fuel. JK but just about, no?

Ahem....you can make your own for a fraction of the cost...just saying....

No longer than its ever taken to start. I'm sure I would have noticed such a change. Can I pull the schrader valve on the compression tester and watch leak down of one compression stroke as a half ass watch what happens experiment?

EDIT: Ok guys I feel like an ass. It's been so long since I have performed a compression test that in my haste I forgot a very important step. (Besides warming it up as Hub pointed out) I didn't have the throttle cracked open or as you guys say WOT! My new numbers are 215 215 215 211. Again, these are cold numbers and I'm not sure how much higher they would be warm. WOT you think Mr. Hub? Also, feel free to berate and belittle my nubish mistake.

* Last updated by: maverick1441 on 10/5/2013 @ 12:39 PM *

Mav, common mistake with the WOT move. And no tooth is going to jump with those compression numbers. As long as we have the real "cold" numbers, that's your morning star number(s) so you don't chase your ass why it won't start!? Fuck the book warmup. If say we watched a leak-down of 1 to 2% cold, the gap of the rings, the expansion of the pistons, they still bleed the air thru those areas. So if we remained hot and could check a leak this way, wouldn't you agree we'd still be at 1%? We could not stop the leak with the gaps and all that with the physical parts needing a gap for expansion anyway, or they'd hit and break the rings, tag the valves and the like.

So we now take this book number that ranges from 261 down to 173. You are at what percentage leak we use 261 and your 215? I get the formulas wrong so my guess is, 7.3333333% down? So 1-2% leak is ideal race, 6-7% is race-Tr/Dwn, 8-9% is production leak tear-down.

If the number is correct, you more or less are past 6% for race tear down. I had well over 15K when I checked valve lash and compression at that interval. The 14 has lower compression than the R, so this max number for the 14 was 226 psi. I was about 6 pounds off book with the 14. Your R is 50 pounds off book we use the lowest compression.

I think nasty has a point. It be interesting to see the leaked number.

261 is also a thoroughly warmed motor as per book instructions. How do we compare this to cold? How would all cylinders receive equal damage in 3500 miles? Questions I have many.... Answers I have few...

If your front half times are competitive then compression is not the big issue. Back half times are high rev dependent. That means upper end/fueling. Weak springs and non-conformant valve timing plus inadequate fuel per atmosphere charge do more to destroy back half ETs.

Hagrid,

215 is 17.6% down from 261; unless I missed something. Sounds like Hub says this is tear down territory or "wasted!".

But then, where does the compression necessary for the good front half times come from??

You guys are thinking like me. Putting down 126 mph on the front half is booking. I have Dynojet's wideband 2 module and I'm planning on getting the LCD-200 so that top end AFRs will be recordable. I believe this data will ultimately answer my top end mph problem. My current guess is a partially clogged fuel pump or a voltage drop during full load operation during the back half of the run that is causing a lean condition. This would explain why I didn't pick up any ET or mph with the cooler temps.

You need to get off the hot testing. Neighbor 1 is kicking away, rings the doorbell, I come over with the compression tester. 65psi. I say shoot some oil in it, lets see if it's rings or valves? Compression goes up to about 100psi. It's rings. The oil is pushing down on the rings and seals it liquid wise a few strokes.

I said to run down the street so the cylinder runs faster than kicking it. I goofed on the guy so he can see when he comes back. So I take another compression and it reads back to 65psi. I said see, it washed the oil down the piston, she is back to can't start dead cold because you have 65psi, not 100.

So the dumb fucks writing the books have this old way of looking at hot compression readings and I don't follow book. I follow cold clearances is why she won't start/go fast/idles poorly/hard to start. And now for my 220psi. WOT would happen if I ran a hot number? Think I'd book 226 by 6 pounds? Probably.

Would it show my true cold number all at rest in the morning start? No. Would I oil the engine before morning so I can start it up? LAOOSOSOSOSMYAAAASOFFFF

Neighbor 2 comes over. I bring the compression tester and we find 150psi cold. I say, pull the air cleaner and see what it looks like? Here it is! Let me wash this filter out so we can start your lawnmower now to see if this was it? Bingo! Happy neighbor #2.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/5/2013 @ 8:47 PM *