The funny thing is that i am able to get above 33 MPG city driving. My concern is the highway not being very high.
I am totally ok with just about 27-30 city. I do a lot of city, but i want to do some cruising on the highway and get decent fuel economy. When cruising in 5th around town the computer shows upto 35MPG. Highway though it is never consistently over 33. That is my issue. This means it really is about 31 MPG on the freeway, That seems pretty low to me. I am going to get a new set of plugs and see what happens.

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Okay...I reset.Looks at me guage....37 mpg and climbing.WTF?Geez.She's doing just fine!Me happy again.Problemo solved!

That is the problem. Mine does not do this. I have never seen 37 and climbing.

how about removing the PC, see what kind of gas mileage you get now?

If you read the beginning of the post, number 1-5. I had no PC connected for the first 2 weeks of riding the bike. This is why i connected the PC. I use the PC to tune for ECONOMY, not power. I want less power. I dont need more. I want a economy bike that is comfortable. With no PC, i got the same fuel economy, about 22-24 MPG. On the freeway only i got about 29ish. All bad Fuel economy. The PC has given me about the same fuel economy.

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Also to mention, I HAVE NEVER RUN FULL THROTTLE.
I dont ride like that. Think of a grandma on a zx-14. That is closer to what i ride like. No tickets, been riding for 5 years a liter bike, never pulled over once. I go the speed limit always.

Only time i have fun is on the freeway on ramp, i might go a tiny bit over the limit.

* Last updated by: viperkillertt on 4/25/2011 @ 3:57 PM *

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I'm not so sure those Dynojet maps are geared for economy.You might try a Jeffo map...I have very good results from mine.Power....and cruisability.FAICS TUNING SERVICE.On the web.

Even driving like "Granpa"...you're gonna get some lousy results around the city IF you're not running in the "performance" area of the trans/engine.Only you can find what that is for your bike.Takes some time and experimentation to find the best results.Low rpms/high gear(s) do not always equate to "better" fuel economy.

Actually...33 city is pretty darn good!It can only increase on the highway IF you're in the best "cruise" mode of engine speed and gearing.

I may have mentioned this...but just the other day,I was able to get 38.9...sustained.I think I was rolling at 70ish in 6th.It would not read that UNTIL I reset the "avg" mode reset,and had been riding that way for several(10 maybe?) minutes/miles.

I do make it a routine to treat my fuel at least twice in the season(around 5 months long)with that injector cleaner...gumout...in the silverish bottle."Concentrated" I think it is.One bottle per two tankfuls of fuel.Certainly isn't hurting anything.Might give that a try?See what happens?I'm also running 91 octane...always.Tried the 87 for a while....could tell it wasn't as "peppy".89 was somewhat better.Plus I'm running a 4 degree advance.I do think that makes a bit of difference in the fuel burn.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/25/2011 @ 4:14 PM *

Thank you Blue.
Are you running a cam or are you running the timing through a PC? How do we do timing adjustments with the power commander?

I am running a type of Fuel injector cleaner right now. I really think i need to get a stock sprocket also. And a new set of plugs would be good. I think this bike was running a bit rich before i got it, so i think the plugs might be a little fouled. What is a recommended plug?

I am going to tweak this map a little more. I am pleased with its around town performance. It is much better then the ones that add fuel for the butterflies removed. Can you upload your map to the site so i can look it over?

Thanks again.

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I attempted to upload a map at one point...it wouldn't display correctly.My timing deal is a muzzy "ignition advancer"...manual adjustable.It's on their website.Decent little mod.The plugs are ngk CR9EIA-9.Someone here may be using a different plug....mine are iridiums,if that makes a difference.

Thanks. I will order up a set.
I quit using iridiums a few years back on my cars because they really were not anything special, but they are often the only choice for bikes. Thanks.
I will check out the muzzy tool. That sounds cool.

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I might have got somewhere tonight with my fuel economy issue. I just created a separate post about it, but my radiator was completely empty. It is very hard to get to a good temperature when there is no liquid in your engine.
I cannot believe this and i am very nervous that the previous owner knew the bike had a problem and obviously didnt tell me.

Here is the other post.

* Last updated by: viperkillertt on 4/29/2011 @ 11:53 PM *

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Well, i finally took the time to find out what sprocket was on the rear. I had been putting it off because i thought i was going to manually count the teeth. I was wrong. Right on the sprocket it said Vortex 427-39.
It is a 39 tooth sprocket.
So it is noticeable drop in teeth.

I was wondering if people had suggestions on what 41 tooth sprocket people would recommend.
I just finished reading http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=EB2E6BDC-D56B-84E2-1D17B62DAE7BB066

It is a lengthy process of changing chains, but i think it might help my fuel economy. If it does not, I am going to be pretty displeased. I probably need to make sure he didn't adjust the front sprocket. I cant image why he would change it, but i have been shocked by many things on this bike.

Two other questions:
Do i need a new chain. The chain looks like it is in very good condition. I think he changed it when he did the sprocket.

Also, is there a way to do the job without cutting the chain? That is the part i like least about doing the chain job.

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I ride 17/41 stock gearing and get 36.7 mpg putting around but than agan i only Weigh 150 but I do recommend if you change sprockets change chain new on new.

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I ride 17/41 stock gearing and get 36.7 mpg putting around but than agan i only Weigh 150 but I do recommend if you change sprockets change chain new on new.

I know that is the rule, but sprocket is like 50, new chain is like 150. I just don't want to fork out that much. I know it will make the chain wear quicker, but otherwise i would be throwing away an newer chain. I think the chain has less then 5k miles on it. It is one of those nice gold chains. I am not sure of the brand.
Anyways, can you change to a 2 tooth higher without cutting the chain? That is my question.

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the guide says you can do a 16/43 using the stock length chain. now my concern would be that if thats a 39 on the back then that chain is highly likely not the stock length im sure he had to cut it down a few lengths so not buying a chain may not be an option

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the guide says you can do a 16/43 using the stock length chain. now my concern would be that if thats a 39 on the back then that chain is highly likely not the stock length im sure he had to cut it down a few lengths so not buying a chain may not be an option

OH BUGGER!

Got, i dont want to spend 200 bucks on a whim that might help my fuel economy :(
Anyone have a good condition stock chain and sprocket for sale?

* Last updated by: viperkillertt on 5/7/2011 @ 10:51 AM *

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Count your links on there.Scott may be right.He MAY have cut some down.BUT....maybe not.39 tooth rear...never ran anything shorter than a 41.Get that 39 off there.Go back to stock.That's my suggestion.You'll definitely see some better fuel numbers at stock.I would say...your chain is just fine.I'm hoping you won't need to add any links to it.But even if you do...it should still be okay.Couple of links won't hurt anything.Just have a reputable mechanic do it for ya.You'll be fine.You need the "rivet type" chain links on there.Do NOT go with a cheaper "clip type".Get your chain model...contact a decent website for chain parts...maybe EK or something(your chain is most likely an EK or a DID).Order your chain links.Make sure you order for 11,000 lb tensile strength...1400 engine size.That's my advice.IF that's the stock chain...it's a DIADO.

I don't keep my used chains...otherwise...all my replacement gears are USED....not worth putting back on.You can get a nice Sunstar 41 tooth from almost any motorcycle store.(on the web).Motorcycle superstore has em.You want STEEL...not Aluminum.

I'll say this...against all odds probably...but I have never replaced all three items at once.I get good life out of my gears and chains.You COULD change all three...yes...it's up to you.An obviously dry,kinked chain...ya...it's probably gonna cause gear wear quicker.But if it's been maintained,I'd keep it and use it.Gear up front look okay?I'd keep it on there.(unless you are going to a larger size or whatever).The rear will be new...so no problem there that I see.You won't have any safety issues by increasing the chain length to stock...116,long as the mechanic installs the links correctly.Get er adjusted right...should be fine.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/7/2011 @ 3:03 PM *

Thanks for your words blue. Very helpful.
Yeah, i will go with steel. I dont know why anyone would use aluminum on a 190HP bike. Unless they enjoy changing sprockets. That sprocket is going to get off very soon.

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The chain thing is a headscratcher to me.The rollers will wear to the way the teeth are wearing...so...what I mean is...if your sprockets are showing strange wear patterns...or IF the guy rode the shi# outta the bike...lots of hard takeoffs and such,then it may just be worth it to get a new chain straight out,and be done with it.Everyone here has their way of doing this kind of switch out.All good ideas.Wear can be "invisible" anyway...especially on a fairly new chain.Your posts about your bike lead me to believe you have a bike that was ridden petty aggressively.Some aftermarket stuff on there.And a few "issues"...but nothing serious.So you might just want to spend the little extra...get a whole gearing/chain combo,and install.Just so you can KNOW what's on YOUR bike now.I think I would most likely do it that way....start kinda fresh with "replacement" parts as you find em on there.Have the guys check your rear bearings/seals and all at the same time.

At least you'll have a better idea of what kind of riding works best for you with the new setup.Wear and all that.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/8/2011 @ 12:52 AM *

Ok, so i wanted to give an update. It has been about 3 months since my last update. I had just put the new plugs in and a new map last.

So for the last 3 months i have been averaging 23-24 MPG around town on my 14. It is really horrible. I do get about 28 on the freeway, but still that is pretty darn bad. My car was stolen about the time that i stopped posting in May. I am finally working on my bike again. I am going to grab a new rear sprocket with 41 teeth and i hope that will solve most of the issues. I have a question for everyone, can i use my current chain and just add a few chain links to it, instead of buying a whole new chain? My current chain has very few miles and i would prefer not to have to buy a new chain.

Thanks for reading.

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Where's your axle adjuster blocks sitting?The hash marks that is.39 rear...are you sure you have a stock 17 up front?Better make sure.Sounds like whoever owned it tried like hell to get super mileage out of it....they may have raised the front sprocket to 18 or some such deal.If so...your chain MAY fit okay as is,after switching back to stock gearing.Count the links on there...stock is 116.You CAN get by with a couple MORE...but less?IDK.

Yeah, he had no idea what he was doing. Super Mileage my A**. He ruined the mileage. Oh yeah, also the computer on the bike is horribly off. It usually is off by 4-5 MPG. Last may i was doing my darndest to get that computer to get high mileage. I was able to get 28MPG on the computer around town, it was actually just under 22, my worst mileage ever. Since then i never look at the mileage. I just have the Mile counter up. I think it also has helped me be more safe. I was so obsessed with the mileage that i was looking at it almost all the time, not a safe practice.

I will throw the tire on the stand and manually count the teeth. I hope i don't miss one.
I will also double check the front sprocket.

Thanks again Blue.

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No prob...your rear sprocket should be stamped with the teeth amount on there(I think you said it was,yes?)and it should be readable on the outside(away from the hub)....not from the inside surface.Just magic marker a link,then go for it.

6th gear at 65 mph....40 mpg highway.That's what I've been seeing with mine.Stock gearing.PCIII..Jeffo map.4 degree muzzy advancer.No secondaries...Tiforce slip-ons.33 if I get aggressive out there.190/55 rear tire.Stock clipon height,stock windscreen.No accessories,no passenger.Tire pressure...41 psi front and rear.5,000 foot elevation...air temps around 60 to 80 degrees.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/27/2011 @ 2:12 AM *

I found a fellow zx14 rider in town who has a few 41 tooth sprockets. We are going to swap next week. I am extremely excited. He has time tomorrow, but sadly i have family things to do :( I want my new sprocket!!! :)

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Ok a few questions. Did you ever figure out why your radiator is empty and your head gasket is leaking oil? Sounds like a possible head gasket to me but I'm not a mechanic. Like hub said previously: you open up the faucet, you pay more. Have you ever compression tested the cylinders? What about brought it in for a valve adjustment & throttle body sync? You mentioned previously that you saw some oil, has there been any more leaking? Btw, I am one of those people running an aluminum sprocket on a 190hp bike, I'm glad mine was on the dyno and it only made 181.
I mean no disrespect but do you know that the 250 Ninjas do almost 70 mpg, and have descent power surprisingly for a 250.

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Radiator was not leaking, the hose at the top near the fill had a hole in it, so it was leaking when pressurized. I fixed the hose. The bike runs great. I dont know what you are talking about with the ninja 250. I went from a VTR1000 to this bike. It was carbureted and about 100hp, over 70Ft-lbs of torque and i got about 40MPG most of the year. I am still very displeased by the fuel economy. I Have spent a ton of time doing just about everything on the bike to increase it, and i am still getting just 24-25 avg. I have a 41 tooth aluminum sprocket now on the bike. I traded my 39 tooth for a newer 41 tooth about 3 months ago. It did give a slight increase in fuel economy, but not as much as i hoped. I felt the power difference for about 1 day and then it felt normal.

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Hub, again. I have ridden this bike for over 1.5 months without the PC3 installed. It did not increase fuel economy and it did not run quite as well as with the PC3. It was running just a bit lean without a tad extra fuel in the low end because of the flys gone and the pipe. Thank you for your comments. As you know, i have not mentioned or updated in many months. I am dealing with it, but honestly, i am getting about 15-205% lower fuel economy then most people who ride these bikes much harder then i do. I cruise on this bike 90% of the time. I am going to keep working on it, but work too many hours to spend time fussing with the bike right now.

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Try new plugs?Clean air filter?Reset 'avg' mpg reading after cruising for a while?91 octane?Tire right size?Stock gearing?Chain adjusted correctly?And lubed?Bearings okay?Foot not dragging on rear brake while riding?Rear brake releasing okay after application?Pads correct thickness?Front brake(s) releasing okay after application?Correct pad thickness?Rear sprocket showing excessive wear?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 9/30/2011 @ 11:55 AM *