I'm thinking about doing the PAIR block off on my 2012 due to decel popping. I already had my bikes PC V mapped for my muzzy exhaust, will I need to get it remapped or should I be good to go? Or should I leave things alone and not do the mod at all?

I'm interested in this topic as well. I'm about to get a custom map and don't want to have to it twice.

pair valve blocking doesn't require remapping.

I did not do any mapping for the PAIR block on my 08. Tuning would control the intake through the throttle bodies. The PAIR is way downstream of the throttle bodies...in the exhaust. IDK if there is anything messing with AFR can do to reduce the pop right at that spot where it always happens. Might as well just block it. If you like the effect, go att the way and remove the whole thing.

The 2012's and up require the airbox tube on the LEFT side only.This will virtually eliminate any decel popping.This is with Brock's street mapping(and PCV) and full exhaust.I have slip-ons on my 2013...no PCV or fuel mapping...(Yoshis Duals)and I have NO decel popping...with all the airbox lines connected.Flies in.Stock mapping.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/14/2013 @ 6:58 PM *

Nice info guys... thanks!

@Grn14: I have been considering a set of yoshi slipons. Is the stock map capable of fueling her alright without a PCV installed?

I've had pretty good luck with yoshis in the past, usually just some minor carb adjustments like dropping the clip a spot on the needlejet. This is my first FI bike and am curious if the stock map will run fine without any flat spots.

Mine is strong as an ox all the way through the powerband...stock configuration in all fueling areas.No decel pop either...none.I've looked at the inside of the muffler....soot looks actually pretty light compared to some mapped ones I've had on my other 14's.She's not even close to 'overheating'....not even.I'd say it's just fine.When i check my plugs up ahead...I'll be able to truly see what the deal is...but I suspect they'll be almost perfect.Whatever the factory mapping A/F is right now...it seems fine.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/14/2013 @ 9:44 PM *

Awesome, thanks for the input. Looks like this will be my next project.

Excellent! Thanks man

I'm also several hundred miles past the break-in....and I'm pulling down a good majority of the time high 40's to low 50's with my fuel mileage.This is with rpms up around the 5,6K area...and 5th and 6th gears.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/14/2013 @ 9:48 PM *

I just got back from Santiago Panama last night and my wife already had purchased and received the Red Cap/Plug ZX-14 (06-13)PAIR Block Off from Brock's. I just installed it and took my bike for a spin....wow...what a difference it made. No back firing or decel popping what so ever. I highly recommend this mod for anyone wanting to take care of decel popping. Thanks for everyone's input.

http://www.superbikeplanet.com/image/2013/motogp/cota/attack/

Follow Hose PAIR. Find front photo, find rear, find the rest of the pics to gaga at.

That's awesome, Fitz. Must be another improvement with the 14r. The mod was seldom reported to be a 100% cure on the Gen1.

An added bonus is that you can now do AFR tuning with accurate exhaust sampling. No extra O2 coming out.

You might also want to consider hooking up the PAIR system to create a PCV system....since you need the extra couple hp on top with that Gen2 LOL

ENGINE BREATHER MOD

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/1/2013 @ 9:55 AM *

Hi all new to the forum: I am in the middle of a pc5/ auto tune module install, and per recommendation of dynojet I disabled the PAIR valve system. Basically I did what ROOK showed in his great " how to" post using slightly different hardware to plug the bottom air box hole. Upon 1st start up I got a check engine light. Is this due to the Pair valve elimination or the map being off before auto tune could auto tune? I don't want to go to a dealer to see what the code is if I don't have to. I have done nothing with it yet but am gonna tinker more tomarro. Any advice is appreciated. 2012 zx14r

It wouldn't be from the PAIR being disconnected. If the map is off meaning the fueling is not quite right, I don't think that would cause a check engine light either. ---?

If the connectors to the PC and AutoTune are all hooked up tight, I don't see what the problem could be. The only thing that occurs to me is that one of the contacts is bent and not making contact.....but I have never heard of that being a problem with DJ products. Bazzaz, yes. I got a code from a bent contact in my bazzaz harness on my busa.

Hope you get some good info hear but this sounds like a good case for the DJ tech support. Try that before the dealership shop.

I don't want to go to a dealer to see what the code is if I don't have to.

If you have a gen 2, ya have to block the left side line, if you blocked the right side line as on the gen 1, you will get a dash code. Just thinkin out loud here. First thing that popped into my head.

Welcome. Reconnect the PAIR back up and see if the light goes off. This way we know if it's the pc or the unplugging of the PAIR. If so, zip-tie the PAIR valve back onto the rubber boot, keep it connected, no harm no foul.

1400blinga if you disconnect the two wire plug on the pair system on the 2012 up model then it shows an error code. As previously mentioned you need only block the left side tube. ( on the gen 1 it sits on the right). If you block/disconnect the right hand side on the 2012 model the bike does not idle/cuts out.
Hub gave some advice which I used to eliminate that error light. Put in a resistor (any rating seems to work) on the plug that you took out of the pair set up.
Here's how I did it. I bent the bottom of the leg of the resistor to make it double, (if you don't it slips out) and then wedged it into the terminal on one side. I did the same with the other leg and wedged it into the other terminal. I covered the plug with a small bag and cable/zip tied it closed so no moisture gets in.
I removed the control unit and the piping going to the motor and the air box. Not necassary but liked the look of a "cleaner" more open motor on top.
Blocked off the airbox with a plastic plug wedged into the rubber.
Then the plates now have two openings on top. I took a piece of rubber hose same inside diameter and length as the original hose and put this across the two plates. If the hose is the right length it wages itself in place and won't need any clamps. Left reed valves in place.

This has eliminated the rumble on decal and most of the pop. The 3500 rpm pop is still there.
I left my map the same but have cleared all trims on my autotune. Only done around 300 Kms since so haven't checked on the autotune if there is any difference. Just sound for now.

Hope this gives you some insight.

Eureka--that's IT! This is a Gen2 you're working on. Thanks for the alert 1400blinga. I'm updating the title of that tutorial. All my most recent tutorials are labeled Gen1.

That honker of a resistor is out of a coffee pot, goop glued in place... Lights go offandango.

The pair valve plug does not need a resistor to stop the dash light, even a paperclip will work. Its simply an open/close plug. Bridge it.

The pair valve plug does not need a resistor to stop the dash light, even a paperclip will work.

Yes, I agree that the p-clip is as if toggling one arm to the next [hi-low beam switching a] wire and this sends the current thru as a bridge. No, I'll use a heat-sucking/fuse/jobber/resistor I begin jumping a [hot] to a ground to complete a circuit I remove a "jobber," because I did not remove a wire in wire out is the p-clip... pass on the suggestion, thanks.

Scenario for the argument's sake goes like this;

P-clip: Wire dangles, relieves wire harness, now [main] harness rubs a hot to frame. P-clip is transferred over to the other side of the harness. The heat is the killer so this loops over the bridge and starts cooking this side of the harness in the transfer of heathink.

Resistor: This guy stops the bridge to the other side of the harness and cooks the glass taking in the heat and no bridge to the other side of the harness is affected by the heat stopping there at the resistor. This is more a safety switch than a bridge to transfer the argument sake; the cooking we make is a flat out bridge, rather we use a pay toll for heat is the "Jobberesistor."

Lol, agree or disagree, doesnt matter. I am presenting facts. There is no heat issue here. Its a freakin pair connector. Lol. Simply bridge the connector. I did it here by purchasing a $1.59 male plug and splicing it with a small piece of wire. Very simple. Not complicated. Lets not make it so.

C, lets play facts... Wire this up.

Batt+
Frame ground -

You have a choice:
1. Wire it your way.
2. Wire it my way.

Who burns up first?

That's WATT dime talking about someone needs to make cents about factruths. That's about as generic as it comes... It does not read easier than that... Not trying to put you under the bus. Just the facts, ma'ma.