As I have reiterated, this bike is as bulletproof as raising the standard of the other brands to meet this bike's credentials. We are talking right out of the crate faultless in every way. If there are no codes, there is nothing to chase. Gas [oil - comes from the same crude] are detergents. You could clean your hands off with gas or oil and it would cut into the dirt. Same goes with the injectors. The gas will eventually clean the injectors if you use Shell or Chevron with said injector/oil deposit additives. I ran costco gas for awhile. Saw the carbon on the valves. Switched to Shell and peeked again. Those deposits were gone. I'm a believer in chemistry.
Ride to clean injectors.
Use injector cleaner per ratio. (shot glass to 5.8gal)
Change plugs every 7,500 per book.
Change ac element by half the book's interval... meaning every 12k not 24k. (runs rich the more you ride).
Pump wise, agree with me on the diagnosis and what I've come across with pump delivery.
1. Does the pump itself (not connected) give out a good flow like a horse pissing or a mouse pissing. Like a horse.
2, Does the bike fall on its face when I reach redline or climbing close to redline? No.
3. Does the bike start right up? Yes, instantly.
Let's recap:
1. When the pump stops, that's about 45psi to send fuel out the injectors times 4. That kind of pressure has to meet those lists of requirements or we can point to the pump.
2. When there is no lag at the upper rpm levels it has met that 45psi requirement or it would fall on its face that fast with that kind of speed feeding 4 injectors thousands of times a minute. Chalk off this requirement.
3. When the proof of the pudding comes thru, this means bulletproof from the time that keyfob turns on and you hit the starter button, this thing is going to start fast as fukeyduckey that's Bulletproof from part A to part Z, no codes present.
Book says it only works one way we research the diagnostic tree.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
...that one does not make a tap feel through the tank.
That could mean a fuel miss rather than a plug per say. So say on a cold engine where you can leave it overnight, start the engine and then turn it off. The trick is to not let it run more than a second. That's a long time times hundreds of fire offs warming up the pipes. With that said; who stayed cold if feeling the header pipe closes to the head? There's your clogged injector. The others should be warm. It's not spark because all 4 run hot (feel). It's not the coil because it fires off. Rule out compression because it runs. Spark and fuel remain. Spark fires, fuel remains. No code at the coils, no code at the injectors because it's not electrical. The hell if it knows it's clogged to code. Make sense?
I took out the plugs and looked at them....they were perfect, and all looked the same.
That means they were dry, yes? That means they were white at the porcelain or light tan, yes?
I reinstalled the coils with a very light oil on them and put it all back together
Not what you want to do. Only problem using anti-seize, oil, it more sticks or gums up the threads. It also retains heat as does oil. You want to transfer metal-on-metal without a barrier in between. The fear is the chemical reaction you cannot separate when dealing with electricity's heat, aka: magnetism. So the electrolysis that bonds or welds the threads together and tears them up coming out, you remove the plugs more often to breakup that chemRE.
Plug checking is to check for gap, burn, and cylinder failure. Rather than pull the engine down, if oil goes past the rings, it heads up the plug threads. You want to have dry threads every time or something is up. This way, you contaminated the evidence sort of speak.
Where do I go from here? Time to start checking anything that wouldn't throw a computer light on the dash.
Sans swapping the injectors out, ride it to clean it. I'm trying to remember if I had a bog on my 2006. I ran without flies, without air cleaner [drag], without pc, and I'd more wheelie at the bottom end range than bog when grabbing a handful.
* Last updated by: Hub on 8/6/2018 @ 3:10 PM *
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time
