I live at 1200 feet sea- level. I had downloaded a generic map from dyno-jet. It said aftermarket air, stock exhaust and flies out, which is my exact setup at the moment.

I bought the bike from the original owner as verified by him and the title said 14 miles on it when I read it so it is true.....I don't believe everyone all the time. He said it was stock and the only thing he did was to have a custom motorcycle shop do the paintwork and indiglo lighting which also changed the dash lights to a deep red....unless that is stock too.

so my dyno-jet should only have the two plugs that go in the throttle harness and a ground wire?

all the other wires I see in videos are associated with dyno-jet addons?

The two options I am likely to go with are the ignition module and auto tune. Unless you say I don't need them.

I am going to change the fuel pump first....since it is the thing I did when the bike turned from bad to worse.

then the plugs.....will suck because I am going to have to put the side panels back on for a lengthy test ride.

If problem is still there then the coil swap.....This is what fixed another guys bike that had coils that also passed a bench test go wrong on him and for some reason did not throw a code. He was tortured by not being able to find the p;oblem like me for quite some time.

I ordered a fuel line from ebay for 8 bucks shipped.....I also ordered a 3/8 6 inch brass nipple for 6 bucks...It is to perfect my ghetto fuel injection cleaner. I will hook up the fuel line to my pump...then fill it with carb cleaner spray, and then connect both fuel lines together with the nipple.....they should not lead at all and I won't have to worry about the cheap plastic hose bursting under pressure....it started to swell on my last time I cleaned the injectors so I don't vouche for its use. I am going to make it a yearly maintenance routine for my bike with the plugs.....keep in mind that I ride about 10,000 miles in a year.

thanks you guys, your posts really help me

Joel

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/9/2018 @ 7:06 AM *

so my dyno-jet should only have the two plugs that go in the throttle harness and a ground wire?
all the other wires I see in videos are associated with dyno-jet addons?

I live at 1200 feet sea- level.

The two options I am likely to go with are the ignition module and auto tune. Unless you say I don't need them.

If you get a flash, you don't need the Ignition Module. I have not tested my Ignition module but I suspect it will yield a very modest improvement. Ivan said the fueling correction makes more of a difference than the timing correction and I feel the fueling correction is only a small advantage. Also, you need to know the numbers to program for a good correction of timing.

Stock timing maps are / gear as are fuel maps. Most of us run our bikes on one PC5 map for all gears and it works fine. There are actually 6 maps in the ECU each getting the same correction from the PC5 so it isn't perfect. This hasn't been a bone of contention with tuners so I do not believe it's a huge deal. It is possible to tune/gear with the PC5 or PC5 and IM but very few people bother to do it and nobody knows the exact timing corrections for each gear. They go with a blanket correction that addresses each gear the same.

You could get a $60 Ivan's TRE and that would eliminate your timing restriction and lock the ECU to one gear map. With a TRE, the PC5 would be correcting fueling optimally in all gears and timing restriction would be eliminated perfectly in all gears. The cost is you loose your gear shift indicator but if you get one of these GIPRO ATRE you get a nicer gear indicator, you can choose whatever gear you want to lock the ECU into (5,6 or N is what you want for performance) and you can restore stock timing restriction with the press of a button if you want. ironheadmike recently installed one to his Gen2 so he'd be the guy to ask about performance enhancement with a TRE.

My feeling is you will reap all the performance benefits of timing retard elimination by going with a TRE. You don't need an ignition module. An IM will not eliminate restriction quite as perfectly as a TRE unless you tune/gear and you know the exact numbers to put into the table for each gear (good luck on that). The TRE keeps you on one gear map for constant optimal fueling and the timing restriction is eliminated rather than corrected no matter what gear you are actually in.

OR go with a flash. IDK how they do it exactly but that will eliminate the timing restriction. For all I know, some tuners may know the exact timing correction for every gear (Ivan claims he does and so does Guhl) and some may just use a blanket map as you would with an Ignition Module. It really probably makes very little dif which approach is used.

If you have the Ignition Module, you get a few cool features the PC5 does not have by itself. Two step launch control, pit speed limiter and rev limit adjustment (you can increase your rev limit to whatever you want). I've spent the last year of my free time figuring all that crap out and designing a neat switchplate that fits between the tach and speedo. In the final stages now.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=F9C46103-FF7C-EA03-0FBEB3669CA2C631

You need an ignition module if you go with heavy nitrous or boost. NOT to eliminate restriction but to retard timing further.

After all is said and done, I am pretty sure the ECU has no timing restriction in any gear at 100% throttle. If you just want to go fast, open the throttle all the way. I thought the same was true for flies but I don't know for sure.

As for AutoTune, you don't need that either but it is really cool if you want to learn to custom tune. It is extremely hazardous to tune on the road if you want the whole map tuned, you need to do WOT at peak rpm several times. I came close to getting busted once.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=82EE3378-978F-4244-17A47B554179390E

Here's the exaggeration... 'I lifted up the hood and then closed it... that should make the car run better.'

Now, listen to what you said (in parentheses)... 'I did this and did that and made a measured percentage of improvement.' Pulling the fuel pump and then do nothing other than a little R&R practice>>> could not improve performance, as if closing the hood of the car. It's not the pump. Pump is pressure drop. The higher the rpm the lower the pressure drop thus no joy. At a high rpm, or say reaching it, is there a clean run up to redline or just breaks up and never can achieve redline. If it's clean up to redline in any gear load getting there, it's not the pump sustaining pressure. Make sense?

Let's 'feel' the header with finger touch. Reach under the pipe or over the pipe, whichever is more accessible thru the fairing. The second or less [running] is not going to burn the fingers. If the injector was clogged, it's clogged at full pump pressure so the start/stop method can guide the heat factor. If it was the stick, the same cold header would point the way.

I won't rule this out because "Heat" could be a factor with the stick. There's one resistance cold, then there's a resistance hot. Build wise, the heat is factored in with manufacturing the part. You've got nothing to lose but eliminate one more variable, install new plugs and test ride.

Thank Hub and Rook.

I am sure it is hard to advise someone with suck limited knowledge without getting irritated. I do most of what you guys tell me to do but when I don't follow exactly what you guys say to do then I would imagine it makes you want to stop helping.

The plugs will be here today so later today I will change them. I don't see the harm in checking their gap. I can do that without adjusting it and factories make mistakes too. If they are all in range and the same I will install them.
I don't like the idea of touching hot headers. I would prefer to start the bike from a cold state and continually squirt water on them and see which one takes the longest to sizzle. I realize I may have to do it a few times to spot the one that is lagging behind in temperature....

I had hammerhead at another site tell me to rule out the pump......He is a senior member and well respected. I can only imagine it is because this problem became severe after I checked my pump and ran seafoam through it at too high a concentration.

I am glad to just use the PCV and not add a bunch of expensive stuff to the mix.....If I want more wheel lift I can do the sprocket change.

Please send me the map you mentioned so that if this stock dynojet map sucks then I have another one to try.

I found out that the deal tire I ordered was not a set but only the rear so I was able to cancel the order and reordered the ones I liked on my VFR. They are Michelin Pilot power 2's. They lasted about 7k miles.
I did get the 190/55 tire to help with cornering. My tires are getting worn fast. I thought I had another 2k left but I noticed the front tire on the left side has no tread on the side.

Time to go test ride the new PCV......It will be hard to tell an improvement with my misfire, which seemed to be worse again last night after I bragged about how much better it was.

Thanks
guys.

Here is why I am hoping the coil is bad. read this post from another guy that suffered the same issues that I am going through.

"Hey there, I meant to get round to replying to this thread as Ive just fixed mine ! And your post reminded me ! In the end I swapped out the 4 coils and hey presto it worked ! Stutter gone, iffy fuelling pinking noise at pull away gone, and rumbles along like a trooper at any revs now and will (at last!) happily run through towns in second gear instead of first. I had read coils coils coils many times, but mine checked out fine when tested before?? But apparently (thanks to a very informed post somewhere) the tests wont show any internal coil breakdown under load from the engine. You need specialist equipment to do that. It also said even a minute amount of breakdown can cause havoc, and gen 1's that have been stood for any amount of time (mine was stood for about 3 years when I picked her up as new (under 1000 miles...) are particularly prone to the coils going in this way. I think only one of my coils was done in as it was only dropping one cylinder at those revs, but I changed 4 to save the agro of taking fairings off and frame bolts on and off just to swap one coil around to find the bad one. Problem for me, solved"

I do most of what you guys tell me to do but when I don't follow exactly what you guys say to do then I would imagine it makes you want to stop helping.

Hell, no! As long as you are almost done putting carb cleaner in there, I don't mind a bit.

Gathering info from a variety of resources is the way to go.

I don't like the idea of touching hot headers. I would prefer to start the bike from a cold state and continually squirt water on them and see which one takes the longest to sizzle. I realize I may have to do it a few times to spot the one that is lagging behind in temperature....

I am glad to just use the PCV and not add a bunch of expensive stuff to the mix.....If I want more wheel lift I can do the sprocket change.

Please send me the map you mentioned so that if this stock dynojet map sucks then I have another one to try.

I hate it when I research a thread and the person doesn't confirm what fixed his issue..

IT WAS THE PLUGS........
They only have 3500 miles, looked fine, gaped fine....and they were toast! at least one of them was.

Hub, and rook deserve a big thanks as well as anyone else that helped along the way. the bike runs like new, I put 50 miles on it through town today and it ran flawless.

I pulled the plugs twice this week while I waited for the new ones to come in the mail. The third time I was so good at it that I did them in less than an hour.

thanks
Joel

I will send the map but remember:

Your stock fueling is different for the flies closed zone. 08-11 opened at 3000 rpm. Yours, 6000 and your stock fueling is probably lower than my stock fueling in this zone. I went and leaned it out to AFR 13.1 and stock is about 12~12.5 You could be running at 14 or more????? No idea. If it runs poorly at idle, that's too lean. Don't run it. high rpm with too lean of fueling will cause damage. My exhaust is flowing more than stock so that might fatten it up a bit for your current setup. You're safe with a DJ map but give this a try if you dare.