https://youtu.be/RCG1m6BOL7c

Nice vid...but ya didn't show the battery voltage LOL.OR an attempt at starting.When you turn the key on,do the needles sweep?And you say there's NO fuel pump sound?

Quickly now...get out there and show us here a 'key on' cycle,and the voltmeter display....That truly looks like your battery is barely powering the display and those few functions(which are probably NOT getting enough juice to maintain a strong electrical signal to those readouts)...if so, you can fuggetabout a cranking at the starter.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/27/2015 @ 9:31 PM *

lol funny you say that bc I had two videos and I uploaded the wrong one to youtube... will upload the correct one now!

LOL...been there,done that;)

https://youtu.be/pZRb8Fm8CxY

but i did notice bc I checked a couple of fuses the display reset and is not showing the voltage.

For the past 3 weeks I was riding with it set to voltage which was showing around 14.1 on average. But I will check it tomorrow to get a definite read

* Last updated by: mre14 on 7/27/2015 @ 11:30 PM *

Sounds like a bad battery...running..14.1.Sitting,loses charge.Not quite enough to fire it up.

You have another battery you can put in there?How about jumping it?ground lead on the brake pedal,hot lead on the positive terminal.I'd almost bet everything it'd fire up with a jump.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/28/2015 @ 5:47 AM *

14.1 is fine. 12.1 would be a problem. Where are we in water and oil levels? Not sure if these have a safety switch... if any? Water bar codes guide you nowhere. Remove the water temp connector... located at the back of the cylinder, near #3 cylinder or right behind it. Try starting it that way... disconnected.

Other than a good known ECU... Stump me!

So my apologies! While the bike was running it was showing 14.1 but I checked the voltage last night and it read 12.6. I hooked up the battery tender to see if that would make a difference come the morning (well it is the morning now) so I will go check it in a few.

If I'm not mistaken...that Voltage that shows while running is NOT the battery voltage per se...it's the voltage being put out by the charging system.Kinda shows that that system is working.Otherwise,when stopped after riding and showing '14.1'...the battery SHOULD show '14.1' if you immediately cycle the key again once stopped.Mine never has.

Ok when I went out there this morning it read 12.8 ... up from last nights 12.6 ... Battery Voltage that is

Now how am I suppose to get my hand on that Water Temp Sensor? I see it, but my hand doesn't fit to get to it or the plug...

No kidding. You need me-guide-veer tools kind of extended fingers pressing the clip down, then pull away. But fist push in the connector so the tab is easier to drop down. Here is how I'm thinking this out, it may dead end the theory. Being this has or generically has two systems, main and backup, I'm dragging you thru the second system as if thinking the 'various' sensor is not going to function, why think the backup will? See how it did not keep the bike running if it was faulty?

Again, the concept of backup being ROM or now call this the 'main map' on this flip-flop kind of 'trigger the backup system,' see if it starts on ROM? I have to try and see if the theory went nowhere or it works, it was the temp sensor. So as the code finally set itself, where is the backup? Get it?

The other part is finding the other 2 variables tied in 'if any,' So is it more or less a waste of time? I think so now that I returned to it after thinking this out.

Now, only other variable is this 'ecu-flash.' Take a good known ECU and install it. I'd forgo the temp sensor if backup did not keep it running. I've run without the temp sensor in the loop and it's needed, lets put it that way.

Let's get the volt numbers out of the way.

12.6v ~ 12.8v is an ideal static tested, no engine running, a day or 2 later and you check this number, that's a well charged battery that can hold a charge.

14.1v ~ 14.7.v is how that charging system is within running spec. I've seen it as high as 14.7; think specific gravity is 14.7 pounds ='s EQUAL 12.8.

So the specific gravity of we suck up a sample of acid, the gravity should hit 12.8 sort of computes off of specific G is that floating scale is measured against.

Therefore, getting back to the no start, I'm going to make an ass of myself, assume the position and bring up an [alleged] brick via so much for ecu-this software is any better sending out bricks down the road it takes a shit?

Only a good know hair dresser knows for sure.

Just went and started mine..sitting overnight.12V on the nose.Fired right up.I've got a shorai in there...possibly cranks harder?(more cranking amps?)IDK.

I can't remember my stock battery ever starting at anything below 12.9...right in there.Don't think 12.8 worked(on mine).

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 7/29/2015 @ 3:43 PM *

Just wanted to let you all know there is currently no update or change ... I'm waiting for a ECU to come in via a totaled bike down in Tennessee ... The totaled bike starts and runs but the damage is to body. Mechanic down the street purchased it for the motor only and said he will give me the ECU, I just have to wait until he gets it.

I also plugged in a fuel pump he had from another 14(same year), and there was still no reaction, or change... What I did notice is that when I unplugged the fuel tank, the gas gauge reacted the same way the temp gauge is acting which leads me even more to believe its not reading the sensor, so basically a bad sensor...

I'm going on vacation on Saturday until Friday so that will push back any and all repairs. But hopefully when I get back the new temp sensor and the ECU will have arrived so all i have to do is swap out.

I'm going to send my ECU back to http://schnitzracing.com so they can make sure the flash is still good or whatever it is that they can do, so that will be back when I return as well!!

when I unplugged the fuel tank, the gas gauge reacted the same way the temp gauge is acting which leads me even more to believe its not reading the sensor, so basically a bad sensor...

That's the whole tickler of this. Try to see how this comes down as in diagnosing a 'sensor.' It has a few parts to it as in figuring out if it is the sensor? Here is part 1... this says I am in a 'spike of a wave form.' Here is part 2... notice how I react when current [key on] is applied. So if you could trigger one more water temp blink, not the gas gauge blink, right? No-tie-in then.

Here is a scenario... 'my tach jumps, no spark to front cylinder' is the title of a thread. The tach is tied-in with the coil. The cause was a chaffed wire off the smaller coil wire heading up under the tank. So it had to be 2 separate coils or the other would short too. But the thing about this is, 'if I swap coils' and notice how the front coil would still spark the rear on the; 'using a good known part' and here is the test of the front coil.

The tickler part is now look how the tach jumped with a bad "square wave," heading for both grounds. So if the coil wire was not shorted to the frame, there is that one wave length to the tach and now see the position? Here is part 3... I have now collected my 3 tie-ins and they are; tach--coil--crank speed.

Look at how I would swap out 3 parts; a tach that functions but receives a bad wave, not square. Look how I would replace the coil and still not have the chafe addressed. Look how I throw up my hands and go after the crank sensor. Look at how you hear the coin, 'parts changer' and look at the lemon law; 3 strikes you're out.

So my dilemma is where are my other 2 tie-ins [IF any]? If I recall the problem starting out... did we have an intermittent grounding, start and stop, or hez at so many rpms? Finally, a no start and a flash of 3 variables. This now reverts back to the 3 fundamental moves of wire--connector--unit:

1. Connector not connected... No.
2. Wire out of connector... No.
3. Short to ground, signal out of range... Yes.

WATT I see is a tie-in to short to a no start.
What I don't see is a bad temp sensor.
What I think should happen is the book's abstract says it starts with a bad sensor.
What I kind of see is how that tie-in is now shorted to ground.
What I rather see is the other ECU starts it up so I'm 100% wrong.

And I'm back from vacation.... with news!

Water temp sensor was unplugged and there was no change.
New Water Temp Sensor was plugged in but not screwed into motor (still no change)
Swapped in a different ECU and she started right up!
Totally replaced the Water Temp Sensor anyway since I ordered the new part.
(BTW best way to change this part is just remove the whole thermostat housing and BOOM!)

BAD NEWS soon follows good!

Took her out for a test ride today, and the original problem was back. Now once again we have a stuttering or bogging out of sorts. Bike cuts power twice and each time the temp gauge flashes as she does in the video, but she soon or immediately starts right back up.... at times I was still rolling when she started up(did not get to come to a complete stop, and she would start right back up)....

Have you considered a faulty kill switch?It stopped,then started up again.Before you stopped.Temporary loss of ignition.Could explain the stuttering and then working fine again.I don't get the gauges going krazy...that might be something totally different and unrelated.Do you USE the kill switch to stop(turn off)the motor?

You said..."grab the clutch turn the bike off,'flip the switch' and then pop the clutch to get her to start or press the button...Could not just turn around and stop riding bc I live in Jersey".

This is an odd statement here.WHY would you have to 'flip the switch' after cycling the key?If you hadn't turned that switch off,you wouldn't need to 'flip it'.Am I missing something here?You're not somehow hitting that switch with your palm or something when you're riding are you?I ask cause I did just that when I had my 1st zx14.Had my palm in just the right position to accidently push that kill switch one time out riding.Had NO ide I had done that.She all the sudden just died at about 80 mph.Tried everything to restart...nothing worked...then I just happened to look at that red button.WTF? I know it's a long shot..I mean..it's either ON or OFF...it wouldn't sputter UNLESS..the switch might be bad,and shorts intermittantly.

Here's a thought...your dealer can access the codes that are NOT displayed on the readout concerning things going on with the bike.Maybe take it in have him check that?

"Swapped in a different ECU and she started right up!"...more than once?Reliably?Now swap back to the shnitz ECU...try it again.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/20/2015 @ 9:14 PM *

There are a set of display button pushes that will show any new codes in there...you might want to try that just for fun;)In the manual it tells ya how to do this 'user diagnostics'...something like that.With the 'code' meanings in the DFI section.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/20/2015 @ 9:20 PM *

will try that ! Thank you Grn14

Swap back to the original ECU and see if it starts. But first make sure it starts before you swap with the used one.
Or... Let the bike idle, more squeeze or push the harness more into the frame. By pulling it away, this may stop the problem, whereas I'm thinking a rub at the harness, so you more or less have to either push the harness where it sits to stall it out, or pull the harness off the frame and the problem goes away... and that's many sections of the [whole] harness to check for rubbing/chaffing/shorting.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/21/2015 @ 12:44 AM *

Just throwing my .02c in. I know from experience that if your battery has ANY problem, ( intermittant shorting, bad cells, loose connections) it WILL cause all kinds of crazy stuff to happen. My last battery was fine right up to the instant it failed then everything went to shit. Just an idea if your battery is getting long in the tooth...

Mad

YUP;)

Looks like I will be ordering a 3rd ECU as i'm afraid this one might have tanked... Bike is back to not starting ... Mechanic had it and said it was problem free, that he even tested drove it and remapped the PC5 ... when I picked the bike up, I rode it for about 15 minutes with no issues then rode it home about 30-45 minutes with no issues. That was Tuesday.
I didn't get back on until Wednesday night around 7pm. Was on for about 20 minutes heading to a bike night and 20 minutes in I got the first stutter. By that time I had basically reached my destination so I chatted it up, grabbed 2 slices of pizza and a drink and made my way home.
Only about 20 minutes away, she immediately started the stutter again and then eventually shut off... I'm reluctantly going to go outside and see if she starts this morning. But once again I don't hear the fuel pump coming on when the ignition is turned...

Maddevil I wish it was the battery right now... I'm going on month 2 without my being able to ride my baby ...

I also went to the stealership (Cross Country in Metuchen, NJ)to try to talk to them abt it.... of course their immediate answer was "you have to bring it in for a diagnostic", then they jumped on the "I bet its the power commander" bandwagon, and then they went to valve adjustment, bc I didn't get the valves adjusted at the 15,000 service interval... FYI: I've done oil changes more frequent then most and I've changed my spark plugs around 15-17k miles, I've also flushed radiator twice adding Engine Ice each time.

Do you think the valve adjustment would cause this issue or are they just worried about selling me?

You guys are all nuts.
Here's your problem. The fuel filter built into the pump is clogged.

It's not hard to access the pump and remove it.

Doubt it's valves.Fuel filter sounds possible.

So you do have Powercommander on there then?It COULD be as simple as a ground for that....If it's grounded to the plastic reservoir deal...onto the painted frame surface,it could be shorting(losing the ground).Maybe check that surface...scrape paint off the ground...OR...reattach to the subframe bar where the wiring harness runs along that.There's a bolt there.(or maybe just a bolt hole)...attach to that piece.

I think you're heading in the wrong direction with the ECU's.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 9/3/2015 @ 10:23 AM *