OMG,,,,, Buy It. You don't want to know what I paid.

* Last updated by: Romans on 11/27/2011 @ 4:47 PM *

seems they have no stock at this time Ill email them see if they can get one or see who supplies it to them,
are there any identifying marks .part numbers or any kind of manafactures markings on it that we can get it sourced from

and eerrrrr what grade oil did you end up using please or did you say you kept same oil and re routed drain,(and that sorted it???)
Im going to get new pump, fit one way valve,but probably leave sump drain plug return for now.till everything else sorted.

By the way after I pulsed all injectors I dont seem to have had a prob starting it again, guess they were stuck from not being used for such a long while...........unusual.

any chance you can post pick of your current oil drain setup back into the sump,(need to get my head around posting pics) please, seems you have plenty of experience with the perculiarities of this set up. Steep learning curve isnt it!

20/50 solved all my oil problems. Still lots of flow. Pulled hose to confirm. I think the re strictor supplied is to large so,,, thicker oil, prob solved but not until I had a couple of heavy stress days and one hell of a mess lol.

Im currently runing 5w40 motul so no wonder its peeing out will try and change it tomorrow and see if its any better, i ran it yesterday and seemed ok until it got warm then smoking like ..... not 100% bout injectors still but gonna wait with that until ive got it oil tight!

thanks again
Grin

Im currently runing 5w40 motul so no wonder its peeing out will try and change it tomorrow and see if its any better, i ran it yesterday and seemed ok until it got warm then smoking like ..... not 100% bout injectors still but gonna wait with that until ive got it oil tight!

thanks again
Grin

My first attempt was 5w20 synthetic lol pissing out both sides. Would like to move to 10w40 but bike is now perfect now with good flow, scared to go through all that again lol

Steep learning curve isnt it!

yup !!!!!!!!!! Would have been nice if I could have asked the guy who sold me the kit a couple of small simple questions that cost me dearly, but as it was I learned allllllllot by making every single mistake and learning along the way.

The reward at the End is well worth it. Except the buying from Dave part. I will never do that again,,, Prick.

any chance you can post pick of your current oil drain setup back into the sump,(need to get my head around posting pics) please, seems you have plenty of experience with the perculiarities of this set up. Steep learning curve isnt it!

Below shows tab on the pan Ground almost completely thin bolt installed and side mount oil return to pan.

* Last updated by: Romans on 11/27/2011 @ 4:46 PM *

thanks for that pic its the way to go. I have some nice pipe and unions that can be done in the same way , get the oil pan done at work same way as yours probably....

Had to smile to myself when I saw your rear tyre.....Im sure there s plenty of that to come

may get chance to do the oil in the morning ,off again tomorrow , am also looking at re-siting the oil pump to see if that improves things, one at a time though. I feel its too high where it is for that little sucker!
might swing it round and lower it to near upper level of oil.......instead of what seems unnecessarlily high.

Try oil first anyway
Cheers for your never ending help on this

Grin

Had to smile to myself when I saw your rear tyre.....Im sure there s plenty of that to come

Lol, yup plenty of that to come. I can Not get enough traction no matter which tire. BT-16 lasted 1200km. 3 tires 8500 kilo rofl. Slick going on this week,,, but,,,, snow soon.

Cheers for your never ending help on this

am also looking at re-siting the oil pump to see if that improves things, one at a time though. I feel its too high where it is for that little sucker!

If you go below the oil in pan u will need one way check valve(something else to cause trouble)I would not worry, that little pump will shoot oil half way across your garage lol. Spur pump 25 psi and will suck and pump from stupid hight lol. Would be nice to place it some where it could get more air flow,,, but where. I looked and went back to where everyone else mounted. Easy access. I changed oil once by reversing wires,,, sucked it out of the pan into jug lol. Try it, will show u what little pump can do.

crikey!!! just as well I have a good supplier for tyres,He used to race at the Isle of Man ..

Had the bike running again last night just checking on somebits,oil peeing out of inlet side now ,not exhaust, going to have to check pump now, it should supply 1.8lt?min had it apart and all looked good before but still notc learing enough and I have 0.9mm restrictor in oil feed,what size did you end up with?

Like I say ,I will do the Oil change tonight aswell (infact I will measure pump rate when draining oilas you did with reversed polarity
Did you end up taking the compressor housing off to clear out allthe oil?

Romans, Well tried pumping out from the bike in reverse direction it only managed to pump 1.8 litres in 1 min 45 seconds
Dont think that is up to the job!Its taken nearly twice the time.....and it does not shoot out either....

Next stage is also the oil change.
making some progress thanks to you

Well tried pumping out from the bike in reverse direction

You did remove oil cap Correct ? Oil cant pump out if air can't get sucked in correct lol Vacuum ? Sometimes we can forget when thinking about other Probs ? Maybe I should have mentioned that ?

Was it noisy ? Still pumping is why I'm asking. Bearings in pump first to go rattles.

Good point , no I didnt remove it ........will retry and let you know that way,before the oil gets fully circulated such as when you turn the ignition on , I would say the pump is noisier than I would expect, obviously it does quieten down when proper oil gets up to it......
Will have another go anyway
Thanks
Grin

obviously it does quieten down when proper oil gets up to it......

The sound the pump makes tells all. If steady on, your bike is pumping oil into turbo faster than the little pump can pump out to the pan. If you hear some cavataion means pump is staying ahead of the inflow of oil. If pump is rattling means bearings on there way out and soon armature will stick. My pump is Like that now, but still working. Spur pump next.

I did a litlle experiment tonight to see where things stand, I warmed the engine a little (until I couldnt bear the fumes
The bike still has 5w-40 oil in it, it has the drill and tap oil feed in the sump pan next to the oil light sender ( I believe it is also restricted/one way valve?) and i have a 0.9mm restrictor in the top of the turbo centre housing for the oil feed in.

I made sure the oil was on the full and a bit mark!
I removed the turbo drain hose from the 90 degree union under the turbo and placed a container directly under it.
1. I ran the engine at idle for 1 minute and measured the amount of oil that had passed freely through the turbo.that came out at about 400cc.
2. I ran the engine again at 3000rpm for 1 minute and that gave just under 800cc.
3. I ran the 12v scavange pump again for 1 minute sucking out from the sump with the oil cap on as I did before and that gave a little over 1.5lt. (A touch less than specification.)
4. I then finally ran the 12v scavange pump again but with the oil cap off and would say it pumped out about 1.45lt.

Plenty in hand you would think according to those figures , looks like I now need to change the oil to 20w50 as it is still leaking into the compressor housing. .......and hope the seals are ok......
Grin

looks like I now need to change the oil

Your close.

No time this evening to drop the oil Ill do it tomorrow.
I wanted to be sure a 0.9mm oil restricter would be sufficient, and not too much at the same time.
Whilst I had 5 mins at work today I did a litlle calculating. I spoke with a company that does all our turbos and he had stated that these roller bearing turbos need anywhere from 0.5lbs to 2.2lbs of oik to lubricate and cool when in use.(They deal with many competion turbos also around the world, Well respected.)
So with that in mind and the calcs I did last night mine was giving about 400cc oil at idle speed around 1100/1200rpm
That works out to 0.872 lbs per min which is plenty..............nice to confirm some figures
just my 2 cents
Have a nice day

Grin

No time this evening to drop the oil Ill do it tomorrow.

?????????????????????????

Sunday morning , will let the neighbours wake up! I ll do it in a while.......need to clean the exhaust and compressor housing out, make sure we start with no leaks!

0.9mm oil restricter would be sufficient, and not too much at the same time.

I'm not sure how you could measure the flow of oil in and out of the turbo based on bikes RPM. Almost need to have a x-Ray of turbo to see how full it gets. Thinner oil = faster again, diff pump faster out again ahhhhh lol could go on forever. To much thinking.

I was wondering if I used spur pump could I go down to 10w/40. Only way to know 4 sure must try but I'm NOT ready for that horse shit again. Oil air box is not good. Burns Hot and ????????????boom

it has the drill and tap oil feed in the sump pan next to the oil light sender ( I believe it is also restricted/one way valve?) and i have a 0.9mm restrictor in the top of the turbo centre housing for the oil feed in.

Just read your post above again, not sure what you mean.(pictures?)Do you have Two restricters in line going to the Turbo ? I have only the one restrictor with the internal check valve shown in pic next to the oil cooler.

Sunday morning , will let the neighbours wake up! I ll do it in a while

ROFL, your neighbors not gear heads ,,,,, Mine have this look in their eyes,,,,hmmmmm I'm thinking it's not love

need to clean the exhaust and compressor housing out,

It will clean out, just takes some time, my filter was soaked.

AAhhhhh had to have day with the family, mending bikes,odd jobs, etc etc but love them loads.......

Do you have Two restricters in line going to the Turbo ?
Well it would appear so, I added that before I measured the oil output, however I am satisfied that the oil I have coming out of the turbo is enough. It may well be that the oil restrictor (which I wasnt sure if it did have a restrictor) is the same or very near the 0.9mm which I have added. It would be good to measure it.......without the second restrictor , In fact Ill do it when I know I have got the oil leak problem sorted with the 20w50.

I'm not sure how you could measure the flow of oil in and out of the turbo based on bikes RPM ?

I measured the oil out of the turbo 1. to see if at idle there was enough coming out of the turbo, If its going in it has to be coming out at the rate at least which it is supplied, I needed to know there was enough oil passing through. Engine speed ,well not sure at what engine speed it makes enough oil to blow of the PRV. So to use three k revs you would hope it would be bleeding out of the PRV by that speed. ........Minimum oil flow at idle ....which is ok as at 400cc/approx 0.872lbs/min and then with the oil PRV bleeding off at about 3000 rpm you hope to get maximum flow which again is ok at 800cc or so.....per min. again Ill measure it.
The other thing is that to measure oil volume at the feed to the turbo would be quite difficult I guess I would need to remove it/Stop it turning! dont want to damage it! put loads of oil in the engine and run for one min(or less) to work out the volume .Trying to find my old notes.
RIGHT next job tomorrow oil change and Ill stop messing around and get it done!

RIGHT next job tomorrow oil change and Ill stop messing around and get it done!

?

SO busy last week at work for christmas, off now till new year!

Oil change done, comressor housing cleaned out and back on, exhaust back on llambda sensor in etc etc......ready to run up tomorrow morning....standby

Ya hoo!!!!
Finally got her running well, not as straight forward as just the oil.
First Big Thanks to you Romans you kept me on the right track, (moments of despair!) and for the good info from the experience that you have come across with this mod..
All the little tweaks and mods has been a great help thanks!

Well, this morning I checked her over 20w50 installed llambda sensor warmed up rechecked fuel pressure..."all ok"
Lap top plugged in, Throttle reset, map reinstalled,
Hit the starter button,ran her for a couple of mins, oil smoke out of the exhaust......hmm then it gets worse..Sh.
Exhaust off again, loads of oil in it, round the other side oil coming from compressor housing, pool of oil on the floor!
Oh bugger it,now Im getting really pi.... off with it now!
After a few mins think about the situation I decided to swop turbos I have two spare, a bit of fiddling around changing unions (re-aligning housings ) checked the oil, it needed almost a litre!
All on tight this tight that all ok cleaned the exhaust out again, good to go again.
Hit the button, hey presto as clean as you like ( I dont believe it, damm seals must have had enough on the other turbo!) ran it for a good long time to check it, a bit off black sooty smoke when giving it a hand full, unburnt fuel! need to start mapping.
What a relief, actually got a smile on my face now not one of frustration and being deep in thought.
Cheers Romans, I know its just a hiccup and now starts the work of mapping
Ill go back to the ..... .Has anyone got a decent PCIII usb map I can have ,dont think the one I have is up to much.....Cheers and have a happy christmas!!!!!!

Grin, an individual mapped ride, has convinced me, 'you do not ask for a map' be it turbo/modded with a pipe, you name it. This is a snowflake bike you built. Finish it off with a map for this bike. Get it dyno'd. If it blows, oh well. Fatten it up and jet it down, not light it up lean, go from there? I have no clue, how these guys start a map on a dyno, especially a turbo'd one. I'd start fat and duty cycle down.

The point is, ask the guys around here or any website, you being sent a map to mess with? Even if that map is off a: piggy website you bought the parts from/A 'call me map' someone sends you/A map from some individual who dyno'd his own map for a 4-in-1 = This is not YOUR MAP! Last thing you want to do is lean out the bottom when some map is leaned someplace else, you do not go there with a 'snowflake bike' like the one you fabeercated.

Open the wallet, you need YOUR rear wheel on that dyno. YOUR individual frank'inn'pint and think about it; sipping one down. JMO on this whole map issue.

Yeah I know you are right, suppose I was wanting a quick way to get close,(probably to BOOM!)
Its been a real headache , I was absolutely sure this turbo I had on was a good one, who knows maybe I blew the seals out too far and its a simple as them not yet returning/damaged hey ho thats how it is they leak and thats it!
Anyway I should know better, working with these tempremental bits of kit.............
Thanks for the poke in the ribs!

Hey, I can tell you stories, but I'll clue you in on this one... Said cast, machine, assembly, you want it done right, let the guy who designed it, built it, boom goes the part. So yeah, I think you have a warranty claim. There is no way that unit should break. Especially when we used a turbo in some 6-hour. That is 3 throttle abuses, zero problems. The heat is still going right to the 9 inch wall and that is more length out the exhaust valve to slam into that cast iron exhausts, right?

I mean, set the blower up there for max heat, but again, the blower seals are more down wind in a cooler path. I look at the parts that way, the bombs are built to explode or become duds. Now, are you not holding a 50/50 kind of part? My tiny experience between testing one, to racing one, it more says they are not that bulletproof. It's not your fault. Get claim going or a good will fix... Exchange, something? They need to R&D that unit... Or, wink-wink... You know some go, some blow.