Hi all, Here we go again, brain picking time.
Been running the bike a bit yesterday, strange symptoms, In order to get the AFR into the band where the sensorcan read without staying at 9.99 and for it to run well and clean I have had to back fuel pressure off to about 10psi.
I have recalibrated the bosch sensor, then run the bike up to normal operating temperature and installed a map with figures around -20 or so where most maps tend to be. with the boost hose off the rrfpr and the bleed valve open a touch(and all the way) gone about setting fuel pressure which started at 42psi and as I mentioned ended up around 10psi to get 10.5 showing on the afr,(still not lean enough. It does run quiet sweet though.
Cant see any kinks in return line , which would back up fuel pressure and you would see that on the guage.
What else would effect fueling into the engine?????????
Oh set the autotune to basic and reset throttle position, gear and speed not calibrated yet.PAR blocked.
Maybe I am not setting fuel pressure correctly?
(could it be the standard map sensor,there is a one way valve in it and its the correct way round I believe.)
just wondering whatwould happen if the map sensor was not seeing vacuum.....
Any ideas please please please.......................

I have a pcIII map for 8psi from my cycle logic kit if you want to try it. I'm running it on my 06 US 14 with the VF22 turbo, full cycle logic set-up. It works great on my bike, no guarantee how it will run on your's, but you can try it if you like.

* Last updated by: BadinBlack on 4/11/2012 @ 9:38 PM *

Thanks for that but I I think I have found the cause,
Firstly I seemed to have had a little difficulty in setting the throttle position, because of it not running properly low down at idle, I have been trying to get the afr down to a point where I can read something other than 9.99 afr, then it runs like a bag of sh... anyway There has been a two fold problem, I have a switch on the oil pump and I guess when it was left in the off position I must have started the bike with it off and it may have pushed the compressor housing seal leaking oil into the compressor again...so I cant get afr down because it is oil and not fuel which would correspond with whats coming out of the exhaust.
Its the second turbo to do this onceIstopth oil leaking I am 100% the afr will come down.

Anyone know a good way of making the seal go back into its correct position.......can you run the engine with the compressor housing outlet bunged so that it will pressurize the housing and hopefully push the seal back in?

I dont really want to have to get these rebuilt.......

Also is there a way of keeping the PCV live after initially swithing on in order to calibrate the throttle like with the PCIII (as with a seperate battery)
Actually I would like to see the map,maybe I can use it thanks BinB
andytunde@aol.com

Cheers all
Grin

* Last updated by: grin14 on 4/12/2012 @ 12:17 AM *

I have a switch on the oil pump and I guess when it was left in the off position I must have started the bike with it off

Why not use a fuse controlled by ignition, you know pump on when key turned on ?

compressor housing seal leaking oil into the compressor again

I dont really want to have to get these rebuilt.......

May not need to be, how do you know 4 sure ??

I used the switch so I could switch off whilst leaving ignition on. Not necessary now but andyway have sortedthe turbo oil leak, I bunged the exhaust whilst the engine was running, enough to allow the engine to run ,but this back pressures the piston ring like seal behind the exhaust wheel anyway that is now sealed again, I cleaned the compressor housing out and all seems well there too.
Looking around at all the other bits I found the MAP sensor check valve does not function correctly its certainly not allowing the sensor to see vacuum , that would cause my problem, the bloody thing is brand new with the part kit I bought.............hmmm frustrating (its breathing to atmosphere all the time one way and the other way is blanked off, Il get one tomorrow.

Whilst in there Ill just check the injector spray make sure there was no problem with those too, maybe even get them ultrasonically cleaned at work tomorrow too.

I used the switch so I could switch off whilst leaving ignition on.

Mine is wired to the fused side of the fuel pump. When fuel pump runs so does my oil pump. Install and forget ???

(its breathing to atmosphere all the time one way and the other way is blanked off, Il get one tomorrow.

This is exactly how it is supposed to be.

Boost is not supposed to be shown as pressure to map sensor or timing is pulled. If the sensor sees pressure it will make changes to protect the motor. So, the check valve blows off the boost before sensor can see it. Under vacume the sensor works as it was designed. Make sense ????

I think you are placing the check valve directly in line from what you describe. This must be changed.

Keep asking I will help if I can. Send pictures, makes it easy. Cheers.

If you create a vacuum on the black side of the valve it draws air in through the side and not out of the white end.
not right it should draw same on white end in order to have vacuum on map sensor....
if you create pressure on the black side it is dead ended, pressure goes nowhere....thats ok that will protect map sensor.

if you create pressure or vacuum on white end it just vents out of side hole.....think thats ok so that vacuum will dissapear when it goes to pressure.....
Do you agree

if you create pressure or vacuum on white end it just vents out of side hole.....think thats ok so that vacuum will dissapear when it goes to pressure.....
Do you agree

Not sure what you mean as mine is all white. How my little plastic valve works is; Blow in air goes straight through, suck it's a dead end. There is a tiny pin hole in the side to prevent air lock. Not sure what you mean by side,,,,,any pics ?

Not very clear pic
The difference is then that when I blow through the air only comes out of the vent hole and not the end.
Agree that when you suck other end it dead ends
(As you say small hole in white end to prevent air lock )
Want to get one tomorrow so I might try a VW Audi vacuum valve it does the same thing, have you sourced an alternative one from somewhere?

The difference is then that when I blow through the air only comes out of the vent hole and not the end.
Agree that when you suck other end it dead ends

Ok, different style but operates the same. This will work perfectly no need to buy new. I must be missing something ???? In my opinion you have all you need.

Andy the pcIII map I have came with my cycle logic kit just so you know. Its not a map I dyno-tuned for my bike. It works fine for my set-up at almost 5000ft up, but it was made in florida at sea level. Be careful running it till you know how your set-up responds. I ride my turbo 14 fairly gently, so not sure what you'll get from this map with long hard runs. And I don't monitor the afr....I know I should tho Now how do I e-mail a pcIII map? any advice? lol. I'll give it a try tho.....
And Romans is right , wire the oil scavenge pump into the fuel pump wiring, same way mine is done.

* Last updated by: BadinBlack on 4/15/2012 @ 8:33 PM *

And I don't monitor the afr....I know I should tho

Yep, 40% column was lean 4 me. I had to had 4% from 5500 up and and 2-3 % almost everywhere in above RPM range to bring AFR to 11.8 which is still a bit lean. May add more more fuel this week if I get a chance.

Bad, glad to see you back. Cheers

Well after much head scratching I bought another check valve This one is a VW/Audi. Imsure its more reliable than the little sucker supplied with the kit. I have had to make a proper sized bleed at 0.2mm and she runs perfect with it fitted, now to put the PCV back on and start a bit of tuning!!! Hoorah
Grin

Well after much head scratching

Grin I'll give you credit you now have what you want And I now know what you were doing wrong. Makes no diff both do the same job. Your old check valve was fine but you were installing it in line. This was wrong. It must be installed from a splice to the sensor tube from a T connection. What you have bought is the splice in a one piece unit,,,, Same thing.

No matter, your on track and your not giving up. Cheers

So Andy did you get the map I sent you?
And Romans very glad to be back, thanks

* Last updated by: BadinBlack on 4/19/2012 @ 1:19 PM *

Sorry BinB yes I did but have now developed a problem with the new PCV the power light and the status light keep flashing alternately when either the ignition is turned on (for the first 5 seconds or so and when the lead is connected to the laptop), also when I connect the unit to a PC then the bottom left box comes up "device connected" but no main screen comes up as if that part is not connected..........I have re-installed the firmware/updated it too, cant load a map because the boxes are not highlighted when a map is selected........bike runs perfect when PCV not connected and wont run atall when it is!
Earth is good back to battery ,checked it too many times and the main grey/brown connectors are good.
It ran some weeks ago but ive only connected and disconnected the laptop during that time........
ANY IDEAS GENTS..........
Grin

I am in need of a map for my bike as muzzy didnt send one and have yet to send one via email.
Running stock 2008 injectors for now
PCV for tuning
Thanx
jlewis02 at gmail.com

Which Turbo kit did you get ? How many pounds are you planning to run,,, ? I can send you maps but I would really wait for the one you paid for from Muzzy. Your best starting place 4 sure. Your call, I will send if you like ????

Lets see some pics

It came with a 7psi spring I might have it running this weekend thats why I would like a few maps.
Ill post pix in my thread

Andy sorry to hear about your pc problems. Did they start after you upgraded your firmware? I've never upgraded my pcIII because of too many horror stories from other folks upgrading. Mines been working great since 2007 (fingers crossed). Dynojet can sometimes diagnose problems over the net if you have your pc powered up and connected to the laptop. Those pc's can be finicky, I've only made a couple map changes in mine. You may want to ship it to the nearest dynojet center and see if its alright? A good working pc is crucial on a turbo bike
And JLewis me and Andy have 06-07 14's, so we can map swap. With you're 08 you need to work with Romans, I highly doubt the maps will swap because of the major differences in injector sizes and set-ups between the 06-07 and the 08-11. I wish they'd swap, I'd love to try some of Romans maps
JL, there's a guy on bikeland thats been running a Muzzy turbo kit for years and something like 33,000 miles with no probs, he loves his kit. Sounds pretty solid to me

I'd love to try some of Romans maps

All that I have is available to you guys. I know how frustrating these things can be. When your finished, only then do you realize how simple it is. Can be a long road sometimes. If I can Help in any way ??? Cheers.

Could you send me a map or two?

Could you send me a map or two?

Sure. Send to where ? Info that would be nice.

What size Turbo ? GT 28, GT 30

When does your Boost rise to 1 lb with no load on the motor ?

When does your boost start to come in with wide open throttle, you know full load and what RPM is at full boost ?

This will help me send you a dual purpose map with in those ranges with good street manners and great fuel mileage also a beast on boost with the fuel added to match. You must tweek your AFR from there.

Jlewis02 I will remind you that the most important run with a Turbo bike is the first one. If your AFR is off ONLY YOU will know it,,,,,get off the throttle or Boom. Turbos play for keeps as you will soon find out. I beg you to start off with the map made for your set up and we can tweek from there based on how it works

If you don't have the above info because you have not ridden bike yet I will send you a Maps made by others. Cheers.

jlewis02@gmail.com
t3/t4 turbo
It stutters right now when free reving till about 5k
It comes in about 4.5-5k
afr was going up so I got out of it
Im running race fuel right now as to not hurt the engine as fast when it goes lean.
Im using a pcv with autotune for AFRs

* Last updated by: jlewis02 on 4/22/2012 @ 10:41 AM *

It stutters right now when free reving till about 5k

What map are you running currently ???? When stutters what does your AFR gauge show 10 or 18 ???

Im running race fuel right now as to not hurt the engine

What kind ? C-16 ???

It comes in about 4.5-5k
afr was going up so I got out of it

Bottom End hardest to tune with no skip but with work you will get it. Maps being sent.