I just bought my 2017 ZX-14R (a brand new, "leftover"). I love the bike but want to take off some of its weight, to improve its "nimbleness" and to make walking it around in the driveway and garage a bit easier.

I have already identified some obvious weight reduction ideas:

- Replace the 2 mufflers with carbon fiber mufflers from Graves or other supplier, which Graves says takes off 24 of the 32 kb the mufflers weigh.

- Replace the OEM battery (10.1 lb) with a Lithium battery (no more than 3 lb) for a further 7 lb reduction

- Replace the OEM rear sprocket (984 grams) with a Vortex or Driven sprocket (510 grams), for a further 1.04 lb reduction

- Install a fender eliminator for a small further reduction (probably less than a lb)

What other steps could I take to get weight off?

And please, no "go on a diet yourself" - I've already done that. :)

Jim G

PM Rook....he is the weight reduction king around here.

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Oh...congrats and welcome also!

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Thanks! I'll PM him.

In the meantime, a little time at the Dennis Kirk website, where they show tire WEIGHTS as part of the specs on the tires they sell, I realized that the OEM bridgestone S20's are among the heaviest of performance tires. I can save 2 lb just by getting different tires once these Bridegstones need replacement.

This would be a particularly effctive mod, as, like the rear sprocket, it reduces rotating moment of inertia.

Jim G

* Last updated by: JimGnitecki on 1/16/2019 @ 9:47 PM *

If $$$$$ is not an option, then BST Carbon Fiber Wheels would lighten it up a bit.
BST Wheels

- Replace the 2 mufflers with carbon fiber mufflers from Graves or other supplier, which Graves says takes off 24 of the 32 kb the mufflers weigh.

Consider going with a full system for further weight reduction + a little more hp. Brocks is going to be lightest. Akrapovich is also a great choice and probably close in weight. Definite change at low speed.

- Replace the OEM battery (10.1 lb) with a Lithium battery (no more than 3 lb) for a further 7 lb reduction

I believe the Shorai I use is about 1.5 lbs. The small case. The one I have has reversed poles which I think fits better but a pain to remove. They have one with standard pole terminals. Same power specs as the OEM battery,. requires a little battery tray mod to secure it because it's so small. Amazingly, not a real noticeable difference in handling after the full system exhaust.

- Replace the OEM rear sprocket (984 grams) with a Vortex or Driven sprocket (510 grams), for a further 1.04 lb reduction

Vortex aluminum is lightest I have weighed it against an AFAM aluminum.

- Install a fender eliminator for a small further reduction (probably less than a lb)

I'm not so sure using a stock ZX-10 fender will shave much weight. A Yanashiki front fender is lower quality, looks similar to the ZX-10 and it is very light. DO NOT go tight on the bolts or it will crack! Lock tight and do not allow the clip nut to spin up against the edge when you remove it. It will crack. I've gone 180 mph with mine and no problem.

What other steps could I take to get weight off?

Remove heat blankets, heat shield fin and bracket on top of engine, PAIR if you can do that on a Gen2, aluminum bolts everywhere you can (i'm over a thousand bucks in Problems right now), solid kevlar brake lines and remove rear bracket and front block, replace steel clutch line with solid velar, remove chain guard, EK 3D chain will be a bit lighter and stronger when you need to replace the chain, replace the OEM engine sprocket with damper with an aftermarket steel one, remove damper and plate from sprocket cover, remove steel indicator light brackets in side fairing, remove tool box, remove horn and bracket, remove lower triple tree cover, remove helmet lock if you have that on the Gen2, replace OEM side stand with aluminum one, replace mirrors with bar end mirror, I might think of a couple more but I think that's about it unless you want to start fabbing aluminum brackets to replace the steel ones for things like Vehicle Down Sensor and front ram air cover brackets. I did replace the mudflap bracket under the seat with a shaved down lightening holed aluminum angle iron for an ounce or so reduction. Don't mess with the fuel tank bracket, the tank is heavy.

Remove the coolant reservoir and vent overflow to the ground. I have not tried that one yet but seems like it will work. I do not notice the level in my bottle change so I do not know how much it matters to have it. Check radiator level often if you do it.

If $$$$$ is not an option, then BST Carbon Fiber Wheels would lighten it up a bit.
BST Wheels

Wheels! Carrazeria are a cheaper substitute. Feels like it might loose traction easier in a corner but noticeable difference. After all is said and done, it's still a great big bike and I do not know how much faster I can corner at speed. Feels a lot lighter than my busa at low speed though. I'd go with BST. Rapid TEK is the one especially if you plan to go with boost some day. about $3,600 from Brocks.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/17/2019 @ 7:01 AM *

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Remove battery tray cover, remove rear battery bay door. See--the list goes on.

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Remove plastic seat lock cover.

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Obviously remove the rear fender and use aluminum L brackets to hold the plate (heat with a torch and for stress free bending). Use plastic bolts to block the open boltholes.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/17/2019 @ 7:08 AM *

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THANK-YOU Rook! This gives me a lot to work with!

- As I mentioned, the muffler replacement alone saves 24 lb. How much do the Brocks or Akropovich FULL systems save in comparison?

- So the Shorai LFX14A2-BS12 is adequate, even in cooler weather? (we get down to 0C to 5C = 32F to 40F during the winter months, and I DO ride in those temperatures)

- What total weight have you got your ZX-14 down to, measured with either empty or full fuel tank? (So I can know the potential if I go as far as you have!)

My most successful weight reduction effort recently was on a Yamaha R3 (320cc bike), where I even did the BST wheels, and got the bike down from 344 lb to 299 lb (45 lb total reduction). Made a HUGE difference!

I cannot justify the BST wheels on this one, since the total weight reduction is actually far smaller than the exhaust weight saving, although the reduction in moment of intertia would certainly have been nice!

Jim G

How much do the Brocks or Akropovich FULL systems save in comparison?

I remember hearing 8 lbs for the older version Alienhead 1 full system. That must be the muffler only. Call Brocks, they are pretty good about phone info. As for Akra, I do not know the weight on that, just that it is well liked for performance.

So the Shorai LFX14A2-BS12 is adequate, even in cooler weather? (we get down to 0C to 5C = 32F to 40F during the winter months, and I DO ride in those temperatures)

I live in Northwest Wisconsin so our weather is almost as cold as yours. I do not ride in winter any more though. I've never had a problem starting as long as the battery is fully charged. The little Shorai does not seem to crank as strong as the stocker did but it is not bad---3 cranks before the engine fires v maybe 2 cranks with a good stocker. If the Shorai is low (like if stored without a trickle career), it will crank a long time and cause a backfire. You should get a Shorai charger if you let the bike sit a week or two. I have kept my Shorai on this charger during storage and the battery is now 7 or 8 years old. It works as good as new although I suspect it is not holding a charge as well as it once did. It can sit a couple weeks in summer and start but much longer it will not have power enough to start. The recommended Shorai battery size will be more practical if you have concerns about cold weather, I am sure. DogoZX-14 stuck this battery in his freezer for a couple days and it still started his 14. The recommended battery is still extremely light and it will fit the battery tray as the OEM battery does.

Remember, check the poles of your OEM battery to be sure it matches the Shorai you buy. The short battery works well with reversed poles because the + battery cable is so long it has slack that needs to be taken up.

- What total weight have you got your ZX-14 down to, measured with either empty or full fuel tank? (So I can know the potential if I go as far as you have!)

That remains to be seen. I just bought one scale and I will be getting a second this summer. I have a lot of mods that have added some weight too. Rear sets for example. They are heavier than the OEM footrests. Also Pazzo levers. They are not much lighter than OEM. DynoJet products, gauges and nitrous. I'd guess I've reduced at least 60 lbs and added about 10 or 15.

BTW before I forget, a Lightec fuel cap is a good value for weightless and so is the Evotec. I have a very cheap Chinese gas cap and it is about the same as stock weight.

I cannot justify the BST wheels on this one, since the total weight reduction is actually far smaller than the exhaust weight saving, although the reduction in moment of intertia would certainly have been nice!

I'm planning on getting BSTs for my 08 busa and yeah, as far $$/lb, it is not very good compared to the normal bolton stuff. Gotta say, $1000 in aluminum bolts is probably the worst weightloss for the money but it is sop easy to do and so addictive!

ALSO--I have the weight of Pirelli SuperCorsa front and 190/55 rear at home. That is lightest tire I have ever weighed. Also the most expensive but darned well worth it if you li,e cornering. It will not last long for straight-line use. I got about 3000 from a rear where I easily get 6000 out of more street oriented tires. That SuperCorsa is amazing though and the extra 5mm of height in back DOES make a very nice difference in flick ability. More so than forged aluminum wheels IMO.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/17/2019 @ 10:04 AM *

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Thanks for the additional ideas and tech cautions, Rook! Some feedback:

A stronger battery puts far less load on the starter as it provides a stronger and shorter cranking effort. This has these benefits:
- Engine starts much more quickly
- Engine will start much, much more quickly at colder temperatures (My other 2 bikes with light but conservatively strong Lithium batteries start the engine INSTANTLY (fraction of a second)even at close to OC = 32F
- A costly Shorai charger is not required as the battery never gets too weak to start the engine (My R3 has gone 7 weeks between uses once while waiting for parts and still started instantly)
- Starter lasts longer!
I'm going to go with the Shorai LFX21A6-BS12 which still saves me 7.1 lb!

Beyond weight, the Pirelli 190/55 ratio tire is also interesting because its nominal radius = 12.614” versus 12.24” for the OEM 190/50 rear, so 1.03, so corrects a good part of the OEM speedometer error.

However, my 2017 ZX-14R has ABS and the 3-stage traction control that also needs the front wheel versus rear wheel speed comparison, so I wonder if the 3% change would either degrade the ABS and/or traction control, or cause an error light, or worse, shut off the ABS and traction control entirely because of the uncorrectable 3% difference.

Also, I had previously found some other lightweight tires:

OEM Rear = 190/50ZR17M/C (73W) OEM = Bridgestone Battlax S20R
OEM Weight = 14.75 lb (for S20E)

OEM Front = 120/70ZR17M/C (58W) OEM = Bridgestone Battlax S20F
OEM Weight = 9.25 lb (for S20E)

Total weight of both OEM tires = 24 lb.

Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa Rear = 12.85 lb
Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa Front = 9.00 lb
Total = 21.85 lb (i.e. – 2.15 lb)

Pirelli Diablo Rear = 12.90 lb
Pirelli Diablo Front = 9.00 lb
Total = 21.90 lb (i.e. – 2.10 lb)

Michelin Pilot Power 2CT Rear = 13.15 lb
Michelin Pilot Power 2CT Front = 8.95 lb
Total = 22.10 lb (i.e. -1.90 lb)

Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa II Rear = 13.15 b
Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corse II Front = 9.40 lb
Total = 22.55 lb (i.e. – 1.45 lb)

Are the Pirelli SuperCorsa front and 190/55 rear lighter than these?

Jim G

A costly Shorai charger is not required as the battery never gets too weak to start the engine

I would get one for winter storage. My Shorai battery started great after buying it and letting it sit two months. As mentioned previously, it does not seem to hold a charge nearly that long anymore.

my 2017 ZX-14R has ABS and the 3-stage traction control that also needs the front wheel versus rear wheel speed comparison, so I wonder if the 3% change would either degrade the ABS and/or traction control, or cause an error light, or worse, shut off the ABS and traction control entirely because of the uncorrectable 3% difference.

I remember hearing there was a TC problem caused by changing gearing in the Gen2. I think that was solved. I have not heard about it in over 4 years. It seems crazy that tire size would be enough to throw the TC off. I was old a 190/55 tire is what the manual specs for replacement even though they put that on the bike.

I'll check when I get home and post tomorrow. I do not have my pics on this computer.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/17/2019 @ 6:34 PM *

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Rook, I am not SURE about this, but I THINK the way ABS and traction control conceptually work is that they constantly compare the "speed" of the front wheel versus the rear wheel, and react when they become different, which is what happens when one of them locks up or simply simply starts to lose traction.

"Speed' in this case is NOT simply RPM, because the two tries are not usually the same size. For example, on a 190/50 -17 rear tire like on our ZX-14s, the nominal tire diameter is 190 x 0.5 x 2 / 25.4 + 17 =24.48 inches, while the diameter of the 120/70-17 front is 23.61 inches - a 3.6% difference.

So, what the ECU is told is that the front tire should be rotating at an rpm 3.6% greater than the rear tire's rpm.

Now if the rear tire is changed to a 190/55-17, it becomes 3% larger than it already was. So, now it spins another 3% slower than the front tire, meaning that the front tire will now spin 1.036 x 1.03 = 1.067 = 6.7% faster instead of 3.6% faster. So, the ABS and traction control both think that something is wrong.

But, the ABS unit knows that the brake is not being used, so the rear tire is not being "braked" to produce the "too slow" rotation versus the front tire. And the rear tire does not slow down if it loses traction, but rather speeds up! And there's no other way that the front tire can be rotating faster than the rear tire. So, the system probably shuts itself off and lights up an error light and/or code. Of course, you have now lost both ABS and traction control.

I suspect the systems have SOME degree of "tolerance", but I don't think they would tolerate a 3% anomaly, because normally that means the early onset of either locking up a brake or the rear wheel losing traction.

Maybe someone who know the ABS system and the traction control system on the ZX-14 can shed some light here.

JIm G

* Last updated by: JimGnitecki on 1/17/2019 @ 7:47 PM *

I suspect the systems have SOME degree of "tolerance", but I don't think they would tolerate a 3% anomaly, because normally that means the early onset of either locking up a brake or the rear wheel losing traction.
Maybe someone who know the ABS system and the traction control system on the ZX-14 can shed some light here.

It would have to have some margin of error because tire wear could amount to a couple percent. It seems odd that the bike would be limited to one rear tire size but I suppose that is possible.

I seem to recall the gearing/TC issue was solved by flashing? Hopefully someone will know how TC is effected by gearing and tire diameter.

As for the weight of Pirelli Supercorsas, it was
13 lb, 11.6 oz for a 190/55
9 lb, 6.1 oz for a 120/70

The Pirelli Superbike Pro (unfortunately no longer in production) I weighed was
14 lb, 11.2 oz for a 200/55
9 lb, 6.1 oz for a 120/70

I believe the Superbike Pro was simply a Supercorsa that had no sipes at all. Amazing the extra with and diameter ads up to a full pound. It was a great tire even for the street. Of course, not for wet streets. It just barely fit the depth of the swing arm too.

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Good point on the tire wear. If you do run a tire right down to 1/32" remaining tread, you change the radius by up to 3/16", so 12.24" becomes 12.05", so about 1.5% smaller. Yeah, we need to know the tolerance.

Jim G

I have run 200/50, a couple 190/55 Shinkos with a 1 tooth lower rear spkt. No Traction or ABS issues on my 2016 SE ABS ZX14.
Last Fall, riding in the rain for 250 miles, then a couple days into riding around the Dragon, the the dash lit up and quit working except for the tach and something else. Error code pointed to wheel sensor. I'll update the thread I started on that a few months ago, BUT the gearing seemed to NOT affect the TC or ABS systems.

ominousone

Thank-you, ominousone. That sounds encouraging!
Jim G

Rook, where you aware that the OEM seat with passenger cowl weighs 8.07 lb? (I weighed it today on my digital postal scale)

That's the heaviest OEM seat I have yet ever encountered.

1. Are there aftermarket lighter weight seats for the ZX-14R?

2. And what does the OEM steel sidestand weigh? (I have found some weights for aftermarket aluminum sidestands, but have nothing to compare them to)

3. What does the OEM fuel cap setup (COMPLETE, filler and cap) weigh in total?

Jim G

* Last updated by: JimGnitecki on 1/18/2019 @ 9:50 PM *

Rook, where you aware that the OEM seat with passenger cowl weighs 8.07 lb? (I weighed it today on my digital postal scale)
That's the heaviest OEM seat I have yet ever encountered.
1. Are there aftermarket lighter weight seats for the ZX-14R?

I have a Saddlemnan TechStyle seat and it is heavier than stock. The other popular brand is even heavier I think. Stock is as light as it gets. You could cut the passenger seat off under the cowl.

Speaking of which, I have an extra stock seat and plan to try something like that. The rear seat lock might as well come out too if the back is cut off. In fact, I'm looking at possibly removing the front lock and putting a couple aluminum bolts through the seat into the frame instead. The holes are already there.

2. And what does the OEM steel sidestand weigh? (I have found some weights for aftermarket aluminum sidestands, but have nothing to compare them to)

I'll look into the side stand weight at home tonight. For the price of your basic clubby looking sport bike billet kickstand, it was a worthwhile weight loss. About half of OEM. The busa has a T-Rex stand and it does not seem like it would be any lighter (the busa has a bent design so impossible to make a good comparison) than the No-Name I got for the 14 from Orient Express. All those clubby ones are the same so don't be sold by a brand name.

3. What does the OEM fuel cap setup (COMPLETE, filler and cap) weigh in total?
Jim G

I'll check that at home too. Again, Lightec was about half the weight. The OEMs sometimes get a sticky lock. Mine just about wouldn't unlock one day so replacing it was needed. Major pain if you can't get that lock to turn and I have heard of one guy who had to drill his out.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/21/2019 @ 6:38 AM *

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I checked on the weight of the SuperSprox Stealth Rear Sprocket for the Kawasaki ZX14R 2006-2017. That is a sprocket that has an alloy structure but steel teeth. A distributor weighed it for me, and astonishingly, it weighs 907 grams = 2.0 lb, which is only very slightly less than the OEM sprocket at 984g = 2.12 lb!

Once again this shows that not all things that LOOK lightweight, and SHOULD be lightweight, are in fact lightweight!

Got that OEM side stand weight and OEM fuel cap weight yet, Rook? Litetech claims 80 to 90% weight reduction, but does not say what the OEM weight is, so you can't know how much actual weight is saved unless you can first weigh the fuel filler.

Jim G

Sorry--forgot to check that last night but will post tonight. No way 80%-90%. The Lighttech would have to be made of balsa wood. Half. Will post tonight after school.

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Here it is:

OEM levers 14.5 oz
Pazzo shorties 12.25 oz

Stock seat 8 lb, 10 oz
Saddle man Techstyle seat 9 lb., 3.3oz

OEM sidestand 18.5 oz
Standard billet sportbike sidestand 10.85 oz

OEM gas cap assy _ 3 steelboltsw 14.00 oz
Whole assembly Lightech quarter turn gas cap + included three alum bolts and rubber gasket 7.25 oz !!!!

EvoTech with flat double wing quarter turn stopper for my busa -- 5 alum bolts & rubber gasket & rubber overflow tube is 6.35 oz so I might suggest that one for you. Go with the one that looks best to you.

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This is great data, Rook! Thank-you. I notice you said "& rubber overflow tube" for the EvoTech gas filler. Does the tube remain visible after installation, or is it hidden?

Jim G

By the way, the genuine Kawasaki center stand available for the ZX-14R, which makes all sorts of maintenanace easier, especially chain lubrication while "on the road", unfortunately weighs 5.06 lb (I weighed it at the Kawasaki dealership - the parts guys were amused).

This is really light given the size of the components, and given that the bolts and spring have to be steel.I suspect the stand assembly itself MIGHT be alloy. Too bad about the total weight being 5.06 lb, as a center stand makes everything so much easier, especially for someone like me who lives in a condo, where a lift in the parking space is not tolerated and its usage would violate condo rules.

I hate to take a 5 lb penalty after all the work and cost to take weight OFF, but lubing the chain, especially with those ridiculously large mufflers, is pretty darn slow when you do it on a side stand and can reach only a few inches at a time of the inner side of the rollers. And the center stand also makes getting the bike solidly raised and secured pretty easy as it apparently comes with a folding grab handle that mounts to the bike somewhere high up on the side. Much easier than lifting this heavy bike, safely, onto a rear stand.

Jim G