Strange....

I have also read the valve springs are week and should be replaced. What else guys? I only want to do this once and have a reliable low boosted motor that is mainly a commuter but does get ridden briskly on the weekends..

Send Motor to Carpenter and tell him to do what he does and walk away. Peace of mind has value.

Sounds like maybe your bike got cooked on the Dyno ? Would not be the first.

Romans? you had said on the "be careful" subject that "I must admit wild looking sheet ?" are you talking about the Dyno results?

Yes, wild = Not Good

* Last updated by: Romans on 10/10/2011 @ 7:23 PM *

I don't know if this worked or not but it is supposed to be the last run on the dyno.

THAT a/f IS GOING THE WRONG WAY

THAT a/f IS GOING THE WRONG WAY

Yup, popped on dyno me thinks. The man can't be a pro with Turbo Tune.

Chris Jones again about this situation and he promised to send a copy of a Dynorun where the AFR is just about flat and at 11.0 to 11.5 and that's how it should be...

Pretty sure that is not exactly what he said but I know what you mean. While under Full Boost sound better ?

Ok, I think I am become ill:
1. I have understood Hub on the last 2 messages.. Thanks Hub.
2. I studied in great detail the first picture that Bad sent and then breezed right over the second picture with little interest...what? Thanks Bad
3. and thinking of having someone else work on the motor.... I normally approach a repair job like this with the attitude "I can't mess something up so bad that someone else can't fix". Problem is, if I do mess something up it will cost a lot of time and a lot of money and one of those I don't have much of.... Thanks Romans

Ok, I think I am become ill:

Ouch, I feel your pain. I know with 8lbs boost Hp should be much higher.

Look Forward to seeing your AFR Table. I will fix and send back. Cheers.

Hi Romans, Maybe I can get Chris to explain what a good AFR reading should look like... I thought he said flat around 11.0 to 11.5 but I certainly could be wrong. This is all a new langauge to me BUT I am slowly catching on...

Where's the carburetor? where's those little brass jets? the needle, main jet and slide, where'd they go?? what do you mean the motorcycle has a computer??????

Thanks,

Romans, how do I send the AFR table... can't seem to figure out how to attach it...

And, I don't know if this will create a problem or not but, when the bike was Dyno'd it had Dave's map loaded as a starting point or reference.

UUmm, lets see, if the dyno was based upon Dave's map does that mean that the plus and minus numbers are in reference to Dave's map... can't seem to make this make since.. or is it in reference to what is stored in the ECU.

Maybe an example, in the fuel map at 15% throttle and 3000RPM there is a number -16. does that mean subtract 16 from the map in the ECU or subtract 16 from Dave's map.... ???

Hi Romans, Maybe I can get Chris to explain what a good AFR reading should look like... I thought he said flat around 11.0 to 11.5 but I certainly could be wrong.

Your bike is going to be a dual purpose like mine. The Air Fuel Ratio should be the same as any other bike right up until Mr Boost walks in. Fuel is used to cool the pistons. Your Dyno guy has you to lean for 8 lbs Full Boost. Hence the situ.

If you look at your sheet and look at what Chris told you,,,, you get the idea. My AFR Map runs 13.6 to with no Boost and 11.8 under full Boost. Should look like a down hill ski slope not a bad day at the rockies. Most turbo guys are close to the same idea.

Take that map he made for you and delete,,,,, or send and I can fix your call. You Need A new AFR table made. Take a pic of yours and post it ? We fix.

rickromans@sympatico.ca

Bad, Top left piston... What cylinder is that out of? If that is the same cylinder as your lowest piston? See where I am going on the sequence move we turbout? BTW, YW.

Maybe an example, in the fuel map at 15% throttle and 3000RPM there is a number -16. does that mean subtract 16 from the map in the ECU or subtract 16 from Dave's map.... ???

There is no Dave in the map just a over and under what is prog in the stock ECU. So if you see a -16 that's A -16 below stock setting same as a plus 10 is above stock. Those numbers you see are the ones DAVE has entered.

Daves MAP Does not have a TURBO AFR TABLE INSTALLED. The one you see is from DYNO Jet and is for a normally Asperated bike. If you turned on the AUTO TUNE and left that map in = Bang. That's what he did to me but I caught it.

When you are cruising, that turbo is running zip for boost, is that correct? Run all day long lean at 15-16 AFR.

When you whack the throttle, those two vacuum units you are showing, it is going to know you took on some big air we WOT the throttle. I would then want the 11 AFR to plunge open so we do not knock, lean out, blow all that heat without some cool 11:1 AFRinse of some power plus grunt rich?

If you are running 11 all day long... What is up with that tuneup? Unless I am misunderstanding turbo tuning.

is that correct? Run all day long lean at 15-16 AFR.

You could but bike farts and burps in that area but ya.

When you whack the throttle, those two vacuum units you are showing, it is going to know you took on some big air we WOT the throttle.

when motor is under load pressure is applied. Not while cruzing, needs a load.

If you are running 11 all day long... What is up with that tuneup? Unless I am misunderstanding turbo tuning.

If your not under boost why run so rich. It is possible to set the lower columns to standard and when TPS opens then go rich. Dual purpose. Normal bike until Boost. No need of all that fuel with no Hot Air Blown in.

Wow! Who is faster on the plunge? When I was running the AFR on the 14, I had the TFI with the pot settings. You move that accel pot and it would hit 10 or swing close off the scale. I'd have to pull over and adjust it down. Watt I am saying; that was some fast data read. I wonder if that map is just a pain in the ass to make, the TFI is so plunge-able, you get to dial in your 11:8 and I'm going to go 11:7. It is that pot-safe.

I'm not pushing product. I am pushing this:

WATT: Insta-map made on the side of the road.
PC: I have to go into the house, or carry the lapper, tape it over the tank, insert it into a tank bag of tricks, are you seeing how much time it takes to plunge?
WATT: Time is it?
PC: Why am I waiting for your plus the minus time wasted, and it is a guess anyway; once you read the AFR. You type in -10 on one grid pattern. No, start all over again.
WATT: Next? I have my low/hi fuel trims and can set those to 13 AFReady steady way of watching the AFR on the fly.

With that said, I would have to see how fast and how quick that map runs the accel mode vs. the pot mode.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/10/2011 @ 8:52 PM *

Are you lagging the map with the minus time? You want to go skeet shooting with the fuel, I would imagine? That air is going to get there faster. I need to plunge ahead of the bird so the pellets of mist hit that lean air bubble or we blow up with some oxygen. Like, wouldn't you like to harness a knock? I sure would. The most nastyeasTNT!

Bad, Top left piston... What cylinder is that out of? If that is the same cylinder as your lowest piston?

all where from #4 cylinder ..problem was a faulty ECU which had a fuel trim issue at 9000 rpm ..changed out ECU and solve problem ..

This is where you need a scope to run those 4 pins under load. See if they all balance out? I'm sure someone could figure it out like RidgeRacer, or the other car guy that does bike ecu flashing. Good call, 1bad.

This is where you need a scope to run those 4 pins under load. See if they all balance out? I'm sure someone could figure it out like RidgeRacer, or the other car guy that does bike ecu flashing. Good call, 1bad.

I was just about ready to tune by EGT'S per cylinders .. but i put it back into stock trim and tuned off the spark plugs and notice #4 was always lean even with pc3 fuel trimmed to max on #4 ...being stock it didn't hurt anything .. changed out ECU and plugs corrected #4 got richer looking than the other 3 .. cut the trim value back and presto.. i had asked the ridgeracer guy to look at that ECU but he just blew me off ..so i have no use for his stuff..

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 10/10/2011 @ 9:18 PM *

I'm sure Ridge is bombarded with all sorts of things. I usually follow someone I rather not mention. I can tell you that he said he stopped listening to be pole and bought a wideband. If NASCAR goes FI... Factory will be behind the scenes tuning those 8 pins. Man, I'd find the most balanced ecu among all those made. Everyone is a snowflake in balance of it all. Same goes for someone making the same pipe. That slight bend you cannot see just made a tiny bit more than the other bent/welded/same-same pipe.

Romans, how do I send the AFR table... can't seem to figure out how to attach it...
And, I don't know if this will create a problem or not but, when the bike was Dyno'd it had Dave's map loaded as a starting point or reference.
UUmm, lets see, if the dyno was based upon Dave's map does that mean that the plus and minus numbers are in reference to Dave's map... can't seem to make this make since.. or is it in reference to what is stored in the ECU.

Got your map this Am. Well, I know why you having trouble. Good News is We can get you fixed up. Bad news is from looking at the Map odds are you have Damage,,,as you already know. Ouch.

Questions ?

1. Where did this map come from ? It must be deleted ASAP.

2. Did you at any time place the check mark in the Box Auto Tune.

4. Did you set Trim values or did your Tuner do this for you.

5. Did you at any time except Trim values ?

6. Was this how you picked it up from Dyno Shop ?

7. Did you make any changes afterwards in the PC-V Trim values.

The best and Fastest way is to work backwards. The answers you give will tell us how much you know so I can explain each to you and tell you where to start.

Next; I can just tell you what to place in all the Blanks as well as supply my own maps or teach you one step at a time so you don't need me. Your call. I will try and say the most with the fewest words as possible.

We can get you set up, it's all good.

Get Motor running. Do Not Go Into Boost Until PC-V is set up properly or this will happen again.

What the shop did to you is a crime,,,,, just sayin

Hi Romans, wow looks like you were able to see some really good detail from the map I sent you, excellent!

1- The map came directly from the dyno tune, sat there and watched the entire process. when the tune was done he downloaded the info to my memory stick, dyno runs, .PVM file. The .pvm file I sent you is exactly what is in my bike right now... nothing has changed.

2- did I check the autotune box, yes. when this journey first started all I had was a .pvm file from Dave which was crap. I worked with Dynojet and got autotune working and things seemed to get much better. I rode the bike for probably 450 miles while in autotune mode. decided the bike had been check out for leaks and loose hardware enough and that' when I took it in for what I thought was some fine tuning. Please keep in mind that on my bike I have a switch which turns autotune on and off by closing a "loop" to the PCV map connections.

4- All of the tuning was done while on the Dyno and by the tuner. The autotune switch has remained in the off position at the recommendation of the tuner. I trusted the tuner when he said "you are good to go" I didn't realize he was saying good to go boom...

5- No trim values were excepted by me. I didn't change anything from the time I left the shop.. basically no need to, I thought I had a good map.

6- Yep, Like I said i stayed there for the entire tune and nothing was changed when I left.

7- No changes were made, I wouldn't even know what to change. Again, i thought I paid $250 for a good tune and I didn't want it messed with...

Work backwards, I have tried to figure out exactly where the damage might have happened and figure out what might have caused it. My riding buddy was here tonight and we think we have it narrowed down to about a 50 mile strech, but there was only one low RPM 160mph run for maybe 30 sec. The rest was on busy city streets.. doesn't make since.

Roman, I am all about learning how to safely tune the beast. If you can teach me it would be greatly apprciated and a good ole Texas steak dinner if you are ever down this way...

Started tearing down the motor tonight... a few pictures of the progress:
pic of switch for autotune

inside the turbo, looks like it has 80,000 miles not 800

the actuator..

wow, just noticed something, look how the actuator is mounted to the turbine... that does not look right!

Just went out and checked it out. Not a big deal as there is a spacer holding it away from the housing. the spacer is the same that is seen on the other allen head screws.