17/45 will move some bacon ..

SCARES THE PISS OUT OF ME. And I was told bike would not wheelie with Extended swing Arm lol. Does it while spinning, Weeeeee. Love The Boost. Can't buy this much fun in stock Bike. Lot's of BS but Worth Every Second.

I HAVE RUN 17/46 AND 16/46 AND 17/49 ...AT 12 OVER AND 300RWH

I HAVE RUN 17/46 AND 16/46 AND 17/49 ...AT 12 OVER AND 300RWH

OMG, 1st to second can be nasty with 17/45. What is saving me is wheel spin. How how how 17/49. Mad Man

Woowee, lots of info. Bad, I know you are the resident ZX14 piston guru, but dude, I can't put used pistons in my bike. Not even if i were fixing it to sell, I just can't do it. But, I will take you up on your generous offer to help put humpty dumpty back together again. Just need to get this head pulled, find out what parts i need and get them ordered QUICK..Only had the bike since late June and it's spent more time in the garage in pieces than on the street. That CL kit and dealing with Dave to get all the parts was a nightmare.. I just wanna ride..

Romans, where do I start.. ugh, fuel pressure is good according to the gauge. I have the steel braided line coming from the RRFPR routed to the left ram air cover and as far as I know it's acurate. Static fuel pressure is ~42 but does creep up a lil bit, maybe ~44. When in boost the pressure goes up to ~70 - 75, I was under the impression that this is ideal??? Do you have the same configuration? what fuel pressures are you seeing? how many turns (from all the way out) do you have on the lil valve on the RRFPR. Initialy this was set at 1 3/4 out per Dave's instructions. But, when into boost the fuel pressure was to low, more like ~60 - 65. turned the valve in another 1 1/4 turn (per Dave again) and pressure came up to values mention above..

When your are talking about maps are you talking about using pressure instead of TPS. I had that map in there calculated the voltage vs boost using the info from the secondary map sensor. but i never configured the autotune to use this map instead of the fuel map. pretty easy to change this setting using the Dynojet PCV software. Anyway, when i went to Dyno the operator said that the boost map was freaking out his computer so he deleted it BUT, I still have the voltage VS boost info in an excel file if you would like to see.

And yes, I agree that the autotune AFR target values that come from Dynojet are way to lean for a turbo bike, wish I would have known...

As for gearing... you guys are nuts. I am running a stock WB and I have my hands full with the stock gearing and just rolling on the throttle...I love the torque but I don't much care for that frontend coming to far up. If I were on my dirt bike I'd use a lil clutch to bring her back down but with this beast I let off the throttle and start over..

Romans, The answer to your questions on page 3 are, I don't know. Boost comes on so fast that it's hard to pin point at what RPM it's coming on... I do appreciate your time helping me out though...we'll get there..

Bad I don't know how to PM to send you my phone # but lets just say I plan on making a road trip when the parts come in..Thank you!

And yes, I agree that the autotune AFR target values that come from Dynojet are way to lean for a turbo bike, wish I would have known...

when you have no one to ask it's tough. Glad you made it here. I would have liked it if Dave would have included the AFR table in the Power Commander 5 I bought from him. He knew I was running Auto Tune but Never supplied AFR Table.OR even mentioned it. Almost did same thing.

I had to make my own table and it took four months to do it as a dual purpose Map. I have over a 100 maps made, All of which were not perfect until now. And as luck would have it Old Man Winter is Almost here. Cold pavement equals Scary.

My findings, Bike works Best with a AFR of 13.8 Off Boost. over 100 tests on this.

On boost ????????? 11.8 for now. Bad would be the best to comment on this. He knows what keeps them together better then anybody. He has proved time and time again. What you say bad ?

Fuel pressure 38lbs static with bike hot. Sweeep to 75-80lbs When I run 42lbs bike had a skip that could not be mapped out.

My biggest mistake ===== When put bike back together the only oil I had was 5w 20 SYN. BIG MISTAKE. The oil kept filling the Turbo. Soaked muffler packing and the burning Oil would send Auto Tune Crazy. Little white pieces of muffler packing were blowing out. Thought Motor was done.

So, don't use thin oil. If you do it will flow past restrictor and fill your turbo, muffler Driveway the works.

Hope this helps.

* Last updated by: Romans on 10/14/2011 @ 3:43 AM *

Hi Guys, don't think I have found "THE" smokin gun but certainly might be a contibutor (sheez, can't speel, soory) take a gander at the attached picture, can't believe I am just now seeing it.... That hose you see kinked is the main gas hose feeding the fuel preasure regulator... Romans, you are on the right track with the fuel being lean and that is why I had to adjust the "boost fuel adjust valve" (sorry, don't know what it's called but it's the small adjustment on the RRFPR)...

Who was it that said look for kinks, hub? romans? bad? I just couldn't figure out where to look and honestly I just stumble across this....what do you guys think? important?

crap, newbie mistake... sorry about double pic... still learning.

Roman, we gotta get you out of the great white north and down here to Texas were things are just now cooling off and riding is perfect..... Fly you into Dallas and we can take a road trip down to Bad's place... All we are missing is Hub? Hub, are you a Texas guy? I gotta meet the Hub.. it's on my bucket list.

Alright, enough Tom Foolery, back to " Crack inn"..

Bingo! Fuel knock... Or not enough of it. Makes sense you had to keep boosting to compensate for no gas or low gas... If that is a fuel line on the L-Bend.

Lean = Hot. No gas to cool which says, extra-extra hot!
Lean = No octane or enough of it.
Lean = Whip that air in faster than gas?
Lean = Knock-Knock? Who's there? Crack! Crack who? Crack be nimble, craCK BE QUICK. wOULD YOU PULL THAT ENGINE OUT ALREADY!

HHHHHAAAAAA! damn Hub that's some funny stuff..

Yep,.. the only thing that's buggin me is... got the walburo pump creating pressure in th gas tank. The output tees with one end going to RRFPR and the other going to the injectors. Kink was at input to the RRFPR... uummm, brain is dead right now.. but since the fuel passage was free and clear to the injectors but kinked at the RRFPR does that mean that more fuel was being delivered to the injectors?... just thinking a loud.. lets see, pressure is pressure if all is same on both sides of the tee, but if one side is kinked, does that mean pressure is increased on the non kinked side?

anyway, got the throttle bodies pull off and can shafts removed... should have head pulled tomorrow and hopefully mystery confirmed/revealed....

Thanks for all your help... we are getting there

Well, we are seeing pressure is my guesstamation. But this one might be the Beer Know Lee effect. Think you have a spelling problem? That effect says, you have a lot of speed out of a little tube. Like the throttle bodies holes or tubes. Once it enters a bigger tube, it slows down.

So, my guess is the beer effect took over, made more a half a bubble(s) and a half of gas(is) in that bent line. How does half the amount sound, you on the twist for more fuel entry? What speed or velocity that came around that corner, my guess is that it separated like oil and vinegar you never can mix.

That is why I think that detonation happened on the initial WOT of a good knock; to collapse a ring(s). That low in compression with 1bad on stock pistons and no kinked fuel line? I've been tricked by well sealed valves but the guides were shot. This was on leak down. That compression test leads me to ring seal integrity to flamed down pistons like the one 1bad showed.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/14/2011 @ 12:47 AM *

and just when I thought I was catching on....... Hub? Dang it!
I worked with Jet engines for quite sometime when I was younger. I do understand the theroy of conversence and diversence of ducting and how it increases/decreases air flow.. are you talking about when the fuel is introduced into the throttle bodies?

Ok, just read it for the 5th time and now I understand.... yep, problem, but not sure it answers my question about 2 different resistances on the 2 sides of the tee fitting.. you know, path of least resistance, does that mean more fuel was flowing to the injectors?

No, that means there was half the fuel is my guess. It happens so fast, think of it like this. Blow up a balloon. Spread the opening you blew into. That is that slow action out of the bent fuel line. It is not sending the flutter of the balloon being let go. Then that air is free to flow out and fast. There is your backup and you had to have that kind of pressure being sent back out of the fuel pump body. I think it does that in a safety valve kind of return to the tank.

Look it how long it took to leave out of that kink, we match that balloon exercise on the stretch to make less air escape, right?

Lettuce mix the salad up between wing or air pressure, convert it to fuel pressure. What is the difference between a solid/liquid/gas, we beer know this... The middle tube or the thin tube is the venturi throat or the taper you can't see, unless you bring it up to a light. See that step in the throttle venturi?

Low/hi goes hi/low. For every action there is the same liquid/solid. Well, gas in this matter. Too late now, but I wonder if that could heat up right there? Made the hi-v low-p suspend into both a gas and a liquid? Or, is it just fast enough to tumble and bubble and all that liquid physics happening.

It is explainable. It is simple. It is 20/20 hindsight all the time. If the effect is like a low speed jet, the bubble atomized the fuel at that velocity/pressure kink. A, it's smaller. So the hi-v low-p would apply I would imagine in this case. Before the kink is P-V. At the kink is V-P. After the kink, it goes back to P-V = Half liquid/half air pressure? Does it walk the beer know I know I don't have a clue?

All I can do is guess your find at the kink.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/14/2011 @ 2:25 AM *

s that mean more fuel was flowing to the injectors?

If this had been the case your AFR gauge would have been reading 10 AFR and would have been safe.

what compression test y'all keep talking about ..i never seen it...

Hi Bad, ck the very first entry.... the number don't look believable but I have ck'd then every which way, and there is some variance but the trend is the same...even borrowed a S-D compression gauge from the local auto parts store with pretty much the same results... even charged the battery to make sure I was getting enough RPM..

well , surprise, pulled the head off and found the following... WTF? why? did the cylinder get so hot the the Nikal.(sp) coating flaked off? do you think there is hidden piston damage? Obviously the cylinders need to be repaired or replaced, any advice? oh, one other bit of info, when I was identifing the cylinders with the compression readings I was just counting from right to left and not the actual firing order.... or is it? So, 1 is furthest right and 4 is furthest left... just so compression readings and pictures line up.. here we go, picture intensive.
I hate to be a whinner but I am just sick to my stomach. I know for some of you guys this is not a big deal, just part of going fast, but to me this is very major for what I was looking for.... i was looking for a turbo that would work with a stock motor and not fry the damn thing in 800 miles.... sheezz..... barf, barf.....

Excuse me while I go committ hari carri....just need to sharpen the sword because I am a sissy when it comes to pain

Yep, Blew the nikasil right off the wall! Recase or rewall every cylinder. Replace every piston, pin and rings. Did you see the nik vaporize on the piston dome?

I want to see the wrist pins. I need to see the rod caps, especially on niki boy barrel. Pull the valves out of niki boy. That vapor trail might be peppering the seats and valve face, leaving open a gap to burn valves once she starts up again.

DETONATION Alley! Told ya! Harness a knock, you can blow nikasil right off the walls.

WOT would cause det? Finger the det hole on the intake port side? Oil ratio in the chamber would blow the head off, melt things, blow up things. If the turbo purged oil out of some oil line gasket/seal, enters the cylinder chamber at the right ratio = BOOM! NikaKILLED!

2-strokes live under oil burn, but with the ratio not to eat itself with oil detting knocks. Look at your head chambers = Everyone beginning to oiled up! 1 out of 4 had to det at one point. That is my call. Once the demand was met at the kinky hose, problem. Once the bike ran all stock rpm, no problems. Fuel was not in max demand until the spool demanded it too many times at that kink!

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/15/2011 @ 6:23 AM *

That is what, locked/nicked/shattered/rings do. Get piston skirt material released on the walls? Rings sort of pop over the bump and loses compression. The 70 range psi cylinder in #3 makes sense now. That explains the ring sealing. The guess being det to collapse the dome on the top ring and lock it down; no flex to seal upon the gas pressure behind the back of the ring. That push is needed for the sealing effect to happen down each ring groove.

Instead, it was the niki filling that void all vaporizing. Imagine the heat on 1bad's melt down; heading down the side of that nikasil. That big a chunk should have had a valve bite down on it. I mean sheezeee, 4 valves and not a one got taken out biting on a chunk of a nik hunk?

WOW! Vaporization then? Back to the peppering of that center part of the piston dome? Where else would it leave the building?

Excuse me while I go committ hari carri....just need to sharpen the sword because I am a sissy when it comes to pain

I would too. If I want turbo, supercharger, I'm going to wait for that patent design to follow up. I'm a sissy when it comes to HP on the aftermarket side. You are stuck with the R&D of it. You have no patent to have someone cast what a design team could come up with.

I saved my HP parts not buying engine cases or sending out my mules to be re-nikasil'd again. I leave that shit for the big boys to plant a whoosher in there.

Excuse me while I go committ hari carri....just need to sharpen the sword because I am a sissy when it comes to pain

Yikes, sorry to c.

Can you guys recommend a place that can fix the cylinders? or should I just find a used case out there somewhere and go with it?